Building a foundation for a lean too. We saved some money with the core fill by doing it with the floor with extra concrete.You can pay way to much for a couple yards of concrete to do a core fill and anchor bolts.
Sir, you and your crew is amazing! What a masterclass on excavation, footings, step footing, laying block, back filling, pouring and finishing a slab with an integral floor drain tied to the perimeter drain, on and on. So many pieces of a project I'm trying to do. What was the height and width of the footing? Thanks for all the insightful videos you post. Very helpful.
What a great sense of satisfaction you and your crew must feel after doing such a nice job. You had a great home owner too, who did not stint on the drainage options. Very well planned and executed.
Very seldom, are step footings done properly today in residential construction. This video demonstrates the proper overlap method with bulkhead. Hat's off to Bondo. 🗽🇺🇸👍
I would of been inclined to put a gutter along that lean-to, tying a downpipe into that drain off pipe you put in. My thought is it would drain off any rainwater off the property much faster while also stopping puddling/slow drain around the base. Just to speed the process up on a really rainy day. After all, you've done all the hard work with the ditch etc so the guttering would be doodle 👍
If that was just a lean to roof, why not put post holes where needed to support beam? I'm all for as much work as you can get, but that would've saved thousands. Even trench footings with block on top would've saved tons
It's a matter of opinion if you care about being water and critter tigh and blending with the existing building then they way he did it makes sense. but you are right something like a pole barn type build would be significantly cheaper but imo not as long lasting or as easy to blend seamlessly into the house.
So Bondo, im not understanding why the wide trench and then forms for the footing in the trench? Why not just the trench, and just pour in the trench? Also, back in my day these small excavators hadnt become popular. We always dug our basements with a crawler loader. And we used a traditional rubber tire backhoe with a loader bucket on front for trenching. I really cant see any advantage to using these types of backhoes. If anything there are disadvantages, such as in this case using another piece of equipment in order to move the dirt. Ditto when digging basements, another machine is required to move the dirt as the excavator is limited in that regard.
You would have to run a mini X and a tracked skid to understand how fast you can dig something. I have a rubber tired backhoe and it is a slow machine in comparison. As far as the trench footer it is hard to work in one and impossible to compact the overdid on the inside.
Why not core fill every H block cavity, instead of just the ones with rebar? You could lower the chute and shovel steer the mix right in the holes. Trowel off the tops, then fill the floor. Wouldn't that be much better, albeit a bit more expensive?
If you couldn't drain to daylight like you did for this project, would a deep sump pump have been your alternative? I have a high water table on my property in phoenix and land is basically flat, I'm trying to figure out best practice for dealing with the water issue when I build.
Question, what's the theory of not fill blocks with concrete? In California 100 percent of blocks are filled with concrete and rebar. Dose it because of freezing and frost line in your state? Or super cold states.
regarding the floor poured over block, Would you fill the cells flush, let set up or tarpaper over them, then pour a 4" slab over them, as its for just outside storage area , or would you keep rebar the 2-3 inches above the blocks.? for the slab to tie into ? or would that connecting harm a slab when it moves during the winter/ spring time as its up north. thx
Very nice work! But here is what I don't understand. Why not tie and L-bar to the "matt" or your 2 rebar in the footer? It not only is strong but actually easier. You obviously know how to measure. You can just measure to have an L-bar come up every 3 block hole and definitely in the corners. Overall very nice work.
Actually if you wanted L bar you don’t have to know where the holes of the blocks go as you can bend the bar to go thru the holes. Also he really doesn’t need L bars on this job as there is no Side way push on the wall.
I don't understand how the tie in rebar to the old wall works. if you punched in a hole for the rebar isn't it just floating in an open cavity on the old wall? Do you glue in the rebar to the old wall to lock it in?
No need to glue it in. there is no pressure pulling the foundations apart. the pins just keep the walls lined up. there is dirt on both sides of this wall.
What concrete calculator do you use, i used two off Google, and it said I needed 10.59 for a 30.5 x 22.5 x 5 inches, but had to call for another 3 yards
@@bondobuilt386 ,I cut my 2x6 down to 5 inches, and I marked width every foot , then put a screw on both sides with a string , put the stone down, measuring along the string, , just doesn't seem right, but it's done now, at 164 a yd,, thanks
ANOTHER 3 cu yds? That's NOT a miscalculation, that is an error somewhere. Did your aggregate compact and require the extra 3 cu yds? Your 10.59 cu yd calculation was correct, but life ain't perfect so we always add 1/2 cu yd min per job, sometimes a 1 cu yd for large jobs like 20 cu yd+. You might have had a slight grade miscalculation, but it wouldn't be 3 cu yds off! Your ready mix company shorted you big time. Shame there are no safeguards against that except their truck weight ledger.
hagan lo que hagan . si no dinamitan las primarias y salimos a votar por millones ni que llamen a super monigote. van a poder parar un tsunami de votos.
SEE WHERE YOU BE SKIPPING BAD OVER THE REAL WORK ONE MINUTE THEY NOT STARTED AND THE NEXT FRAME THE WALL IS FINISHED WHAT KIND OF VODOO EDITING IS THIS YOU CALL YOURSELF DOING
