Save time and money with this seal removal tool 

Hey Tyrel, be sure to let the Company know that people know what they did. It was robbery before they raised the price so they should have just left it alone. This tool is only worth about 20$. I've got tools that will do more than one thing and paid way less than they want for this one.

They raised their prices by $10 since this videos posting…

It's like a selector shaft seal tool for some automatic transmissions !!! same exact idea !!

If your handy enough to work on mowers, you can surely make your own tool and save yourself enough for three 30 packs of Hamms.

I love me a good piece of Kit!! Thanks Taryl.

clever bit of kit

that's a lot of extra work.. I just pull it right out with a hook an needle nose pliers in 3 seconds... PROBLEM SOLVED 😬😬

Great Idea.I’ll easily make one myself 😂

Lets's see...2 facing ops (1 optional), 1 center drill op, 2 (maybe 3) drilling ops, 1 reaming op (optional),1 tapping op, 1 tapering op, 1 threading op, 2 ID chamfer ops, 5-10 seconds of 'hand' deburring on the scotchbrite wheel = 1 finished part (I noticed they didn't bother to put an OD chamfer on the flat end, so that's a saved op). Even a 40+ year-old turning center should be able to crank-out AT LEAST 15 of these an hour. Shop rates typically run $75-150/hr (Joe Pie charges $100/hr, so we'll go with that). 3/4" mild steel hex bar stock currently runs ~$5-6/ft RETAIL (ie: most expensive price) from a steel supplier. 3/8-16 x 2.5" socket head cap screws can vary in price greatly, but if you're paying much more than $0.40/ea in bulk, you're getting massively ripped-off. Math time: 3" of bar stock - $1.50/part Machine time - $6.67/part 'Hand' work time - $0.28/part Screw - $0.40/part ======================= Total production cost - $8.85 Remember, the above prices reflect the MOST EXPENSIVE options available (except shop rate, which is itself a retail price, not manufacturer cost). They want $60 for this tool, +$10 shipping + tax. Yeah, think about that.

Works like a champ!

You can also remove crankshaft seals and other round seals by carefully screwing self-tapping screws into them at 180 degrees apart and pulling on the screws with pliers while applying equal force. It's an old mechanics trick.

You been in my tool box? I'm sure that is my Mallet!!

Good tool and video !

Why so expensive, my goodness!!😳😳

The BEST part about the snap seal is you do not need to remove the engine to do the job. It pays for itself after the first use. 👍

c j rock [Keep in mind changing the seal will do no good if the shaft bushing or bore in the cover is worn.] the only thing i would ad is how about a wire tooth brush to clean the crud off that shaft before removing the bad seal [that way it keeps crap from getting in the trans and won't tear up the new seal] and maybe a light shine and a drop of oil and then install the new seal and there's your road kill

Easy to make my own now - thanks!

you da man Taryl!

Great idea, consider it noted.

Thanks for sharing

Dang Skippy that was pretty dang cool I like it

That dinner was a winner

You know there are some really nice gadgets out there for sale but then they price the living hell out of it and only the well to do can afford them so they sell way less of them than they would if they were reasonably priced~!!!

Brilliant

Very cool tool !!

Pretty slick 😎

I think I'll stick to using a drywall screw and vice grips LOL.

Awesome

Excellent 👍

Would you believe in the 2 hours since this video was posted they raised the price $10.00 from $49.95 to $59.95 ?!?!?!?!??

That’s slick. That’s exactly the same way Johnson and evinrude replaces prop shaft seals

Thank you

Thank you sir.

That was an awesome dinner 🍽️

Nice.

Thanks for your video. I going to buy me one of these 👍🙂

Good video

NICE!!!

Im gonna check it out! Thanks Taryl

Cool

Good morning guys

Interesting 👍🏻

That’s pretty cool nice tool 👍

Awesome tool! I wish they had something for removing chainsaw crank seals.

Good tip! Thanks.

Nice!

need those in an assorted case with different sizes. I'm always changing hydro pump seals, would be nice not having to tear it down to change a $3 seal.

Cool!!

I heard Ronnie owns Rivet Popper

Billy Hayes approved this commercial 👍

Wow ok jus an info mercial

Cant you make one.

Awesome thank you 👍😉

When’s Taryl gonna invent something handy dandy… all those years in the business you gotta leave a mark

Yum yum!!!!!

Tecumseh had a similar tool for removing crankshaft seals.

And there's your seal!

Ah good dinner, wif cake. Grandma loves you, T. "antiques, never stop".💋💋💋😊🎅

Didn't someone have about same idea for Lawn boy crank shaft seals ?

I just use a pick!

Seems like anyone with a drill and tap and die kit could make one for less $$

Tarly are you getting royalties for promoting this product? Us grass rats would like to know.

Easy peasy

Seal Snap Whoooo now there'syour dinner 😎👍

Make your own out of a leather punch and add a grove at the end and pop the seal out

like a selector shaft seal removal tool

It has the Seal of Approval

👍👍

"But wait... there's MORE!" ;-)

Oh snap ! Said Joy Hickey. 👀

Daryl does infomercials😁

What size is wrench do I need to remove nut on governor?I just received my new seal snap! Thank you

I wonder if they have a version for motorcycle kickstart/shifter seals. Would be super handy.

Way cool!

No "Woooooooooooo". Loooks useful.

Looks to be a very handy tool. I'm going to get me one of these. Thanks for sharing Mr. Dactal. And There's You're Dinner!!

Nice tool but pricy for something so simple to make.

Keep em coming. We love your content here in eastern Kentucky (London)

This is why I subscribe to your channel , I hope to meet you & the gang someday .

Way to go,Taryl!!

👍🔧👍

One ugga dugga and a tappy tap tap...done. 👍🏻

Pretty clever Bravo Taryl !!!

I'm thinking a long threaded rod coupler would be the basic component to begin with. Pick a coupler ID that can fit snuggly over the shaft OD. Cut a piece of threaded rod of the same thread pitch that threads into the coupler two inches longer than than the coupler. Thread the rod into the coupler until it is is through the opposite end of the coupler. Now thread a nut, of the same thread pitch as the rod, to the exposed one inch of rod protruding from the coupler. Thread nut until it is hand snug with the coupler. Using two wrenches (adjustables are fine) tighten the nut firmly to the coupler. Using a drill press (or 1/2 " electric powered drill firmly clamped to a work bench or clamped in a vice) insert the exposed Two inches of threaded rod into the drill chuck and tighten. Now wearing proper safety eyewear turn on the drill press/ drill . Using a hand metal file, slowly shape the bottom half of the spinning coupler assembly to a Vee shape. When the bottom of the Vee matches the diameter of the rod turn off the drill/drill press. When cool enough, remove assembly from drill chuck and secure assembly ( tapered end up) in a vice and tighten until secure. Select a NPT die from your tap and die set that matches the diameter of the assembly's Vee . Cut threads into the Vee as far up/ down the Vee as practical. Remove die cutter . Loosen the vice clamp and remove the assembly. Using the two wrenches used to tighten the nut to the coupler, now loosen the nut from the coupler and thread it out to within 1/2" of the exposed end if the rod. Add lock washer to the rod, now add second nut. Using the same two wrenches tighten the two nuts together. Using one wrench on the coupler and one wrench on the top nut thread out the threaded rid from the assembly. Do not discard the two nut threaded rod. Use it as you would the Allen head bolt in the video. Use modified coupler as you would use the seal removal tool in the video. Heat treating/ hardening the DIY seal remover is optional. Many UT videos will show the procedure if you are so motivated. Now there is your money saved for a dinner out.

The commercials were longer than the video.

Great tool tip, I would also suggest that the "grease" used is o-ring and/or seal friendly; i.e. not petroluem based bearing grease or such. Dielectric or silicone type is usually better, like Dow Molykote or similar. NEVER use bearing grease for critical seals like pnuematic piston, brake caliper lip seals or any "rubber" seals. My 2 cents.

It's all about the TOOLS! 👍🙂👍

They should make bigger sizes for crank seals

EXALENTOLA!

Cool does it work on chainsaws and weed eaters and blowers.

To the sales Rep Can I get a few samples

We should do grass rats Patreon with cool videos about the shop instead of selling stuff

I don't see many tools that I can't live without but this one is going to be a time saver!

what kind of black witch craft is this????

SLICK tool!

For about a 150 bucks plus tax you can get the Ribbit popper and the seal snap

That's pretty slick did you design that taral?

Greed I'll make my own. $50.00 ... no dinner for you!

$69.50 delivered to Tennessee. Yikes!

PETA will be upset