Saving a vintage Chrysler Flathead 6 Engine for my Dodge Power Wagon - Restoration Part 10 

Still wish I could've done more myself but yes I am keeping this truck forever so I want to give the engine the best chance to make it another 70 years. Hope you enjoy the project and thanks for watching :)

Thanks!

Glad you're enjoying them! The flathead is so cool, I can't wait to see it running :)

Would a 225 slant 6 go in there w/o much problem? I am very impressed w/that engine..

Thank you for reassuring me! :) I would've given it another shot if I had the time and correct spring compressor tool to put the valves back in but since I didn't I think getting it rebuilt is really going to pay off in the long run. (If not in money then in my happiness lol). I am really excited to see and hear it finally run!!! Thanks for watching

The wait is over :) New video just uploaded!

Thanks dude!

New video just uploaded :)

Yes very happy I did!

Hahaha. Glad to hear you like it! I'm excited to finally hear it too!!!!

The wait is over... just uploaded :)

Hahaha glad you like it. There is definitely more to come!

The more to come just got uploaded :)

Haha yup that sounds about right. The engine is actually a 1955 so the original one must of been swapped at some point. Glad your enjoying the project it has been really fun and I have learned a ton. Have a good rest of your day!

But I makes a bunch of torque so you can haul just about anything

Thanks! Just looked up sa 1984 Ramcharger W150 that's a pretty cool rig!

Yes I definitely want to rebuild one myself at some point because it's really interesting to learn about all the different components and how everything works together. This old flathead though is going to the pros at the end of march!

Also buy a valve spring compression tool for a Briggs and Stratton lawn mower engines. Order a wiring harness from Wiring Harnesses of Maine. It will set you back $550. Don't screw with the bed strapping. Order new ones from a place in Tulsa Ok. They come in steel, stainless Steel, or Chrome depending on your budget.

@@bobr7449 What is "the bed strapping"? You mean like the bed strips that go in between the pieces of wood? I find wiring things kinda fun so I already did most of it myself following the original owner's manual.

@@bobr7449 Also thanks for the tip on the spring compressor! I was trying to use the completely wrong type haha

If it's cracked I'm screwed right? From everything I've seen no cracks 🤞

The marker lights on top? Yeah I got to finish wiring up those and the cowl/parking light on the sides

It's fully rebuilt now! Hopefully will have it run and drive soon

One thing I have never really understood is if the cylinder walls are fine could you just put new pistons back in the same bore?

@@DIYSCOTT if the cylinder is perfect round and not totally "polished" nor have any scratches you can change only the rings. but this engine is really in a bad condition. it´s a good idea to let the shop analyze every part and then they do it piece for piece. at the end you mount the engine, will be much cheaper, but without warranty. if they do it 100% it´s expensive but they have to give warranty. in my garage I mount the engines and the shop only do what need to be done with special equipment.

@@oliverroedel1111 Yes I agree the shop I am using has done a bunch of older flatheads before so I am gonna have them go through it all then make recommendations on the best things to do. The machine shop also has a regular mechanic they work with who will probably drop it back in for not much. I will have to see on what kind of warranties they have. Thanks for the advice!

@@DIYSCOTT perfect! that engine will run more 50 years onl changing oil!

@@DIYSCOTT if cylinders are ok then pistons are probably ok. What you need are rings and that’s pretty easy. Do you have a ridge on the top of your cylinders? I wish I had done more detail in my rebuild videos🤔

Hey! That is an extra hydraulic pump that was used for a snow plow.

@@DIYSCOTT thanks. Hope your 230 is doing well. It's a great motor. Been driving my m37 for 8 years now no problems.

NOW!!!

www.duplicolor.com/product/engine-enamel-with-ceramic/ It must of been the Cast Coat Iron or the New Ford Gray cause those are the only grays I see online. I got it from Pep Boys

I think I kept the can because I liked the color so much. I could tell you for sure what it is when I'm home this weekend. Thanks for subscribing!

@@DIYSCOTT Thank you so much

@@curtrhymer4691 Yes of course. To confirm I just checked and it is New Ford Gray.

Yeah the wrong spring compressor was really the death of me. We got the entire block rebuilt. All new everything. I still need to double check and make sure they used hardened valve seats for modern unleaded fuel. 🤞 Check out the most recent video for an update!

Yeah but I don't post anything on it. Thanks for subscribing!

Machine shop shouldn’t be that much. Even if they grind new seats. Would have been a much easier DIY with an OHV head and manual lapping. I learned that and he will too. Next time!

I know I was... Trust me there is nothing I wanted more than to get it running myself. I truly just ran out of time (I am back at college now) and didn't want it to just sit with nothing being done to it for months. If I had the right type of spring compressor then it would’ve been easier to take them out and I would've lapped the valves and gotten the retainer clips back in put a new head gasket on and tested it. The cylinder walls looked surprisingly really good no gouges or scratches. Didn't look for a ridge so not sure on that. I did still learn a ton and I know I could've lapped the valves and got them back in but I really don't think it would’ve worked. If you watch the part 7 video (start at 3:41) the mechanic shows the compression and leak down test. The 0 compression in cylinders 1 and 6 was from the stuck open valves that I freed up. Cylinders 2-5 were at 25-30psi which could be explained by the leaking valves. The compression test wasn't my worry it was the leak down test (when they force compressed air into the engine). Even with stuck open and poorly seated valves air should not of been leaking out of the dip stick. The only explanation for that (as far as I understand) would be bad piston compression rings or poor valve guides. The valve guides seemed good (besides the first one possibly). So that is what lead me to think it is the piston compression rings. At the end of the day like you said it would've awesome to fix it myself and not give away my money but I want to have it all redone and turn back the hands of time on the engine so I can keep this engine and not have to ever replace it because there really isn't an exit plan with this project... I really want to keep it for as long as I live and pass it on to my kids. Sorry that was a lot hahaha. Please don't hate me :) I truly appreciate your feedback, it is really helpful. I have definitely learned the most from peoples comments. I can't wait to have a running engine and we can all pretend like I "did it myself" 😉 Thanks for watching and I hope you have a good rest of your day!

@@RAMB0RGHINI That ballpark price includes reassembly which pretty standard for most shops here in southern California. Yes the valves and my wrong tools were the death of me hahaha. Next time it is! Coming into this project I don't think I could've told you the difference between valves and pistons so I have definitely learned a ton! Thanks for watching!!!

Yes! We just got the engine back in and running. Check out the newest video for an update. Thanks for watching!

Yeah gasoline wasn't the wisest for sure. Alcohol it is in the future.

Yeah I ended up getting it rebuilt at a shop. The proper tools and knowledge would've helped a lot