Great video and very helpful. I’ve had my PCS for a month and I didn’t do a very good job on the surface. So following this should help me get it back to show floor status.
This is the first video I've seen where 3 coats of wax are recommended. For those of you who live in very humid climates, like myself, THIS IS A MUST. Unless, you run a commercial grade dehumidifier such as a Aprilaire 1830 or higher in your shop/garage, 1 coat simply isn't realistic. A lot of you must understand that most of these youtube channels are a stage, and not a real work place and copying them can lead to frustrating results. Plus, learn to notice when the wax drys, sometimes it can take longer than 30 mins per coat and to "buff" it too early will result in a unprotected top and will rust! They use a lot of elbow grease in this video, and that's to protect themselves from yall being too over zealous with a sander, but I see a lot of experienced workers using 400GR wet sand paper with a random orbit sander for this maintenance, plus a buffing pad for the polishing. There are other alternatives to wax, such as T9, but I'd highly advise against it because it can take several days to cure and their Rust Free product can create a acidic reaction and leave blemishes all over your $3000+ tablesaw, NOT cool!!! The method illustrated in this video is the old school way, which ive found to be the best way.
@@johnleonard5857 Yes, it's really worth it. The absorption of shop towels is very different than conventional paper towels. A shop towel resembles a disposable rag, and does not turn into a wet ball when exposed to moisture, the way a paper towel will. Depending upon the use, such as cleaning up a basic spill, you can even ring out a shop towel and reuse it, as you would a rag. They are incredibly handy in any shop environment, and you'll find a thousand uses for them.
What would you recommend for pitting in my sawstop? I had some heavy rust . I used a Random orbit sander and got most of it off, but certain areas have to these tiny pits.
Very helpful video. I am teaching at a new school that came equipped with a SawStop cabinet saw. Unfortunately, the table has years of surface rust along with some sort of residue. After using Boeshield Rust Free, the top remains almost tacky and darker in color in spots...even after wiping the top down with acetone, you can still see & feel sticky spots. HELP! I have a beautiful saw that was not well maintained and I need to restore it.
We recommend adding some WD-40 to the tabletop and letting it sit for 20 minutes or longer. After letting it soak in, follow the instructions in the video and ensure that the entire table top is done evenly. We recommend using gray scotch pads.
Very helpful video. The video says to use a Gray Scotch-Brite pad. Can you be more specific. 3M Scotch-Brite is available three shades of gray: Gray(7446), dark gray(6448); and light gray(7448). These range from course to very fine (120 grit to 800 grit equivalent)
AFAIK, denatured alcohol -- along with a bunch of other chemicals, such as mineral spirits -- are no longer sold in Southern California. What would you suggest as an alternative for cleaning off the WD-40? I'm pretty sure acetone, lacquer thinner, and paint thinner are still available, along with numerous citrus-based cleaners. Would any of those work?
Thank you for the question. Of the items listed, Acetone would be the best. The qualifier though is that you would need to keep the Acetone away from any of the black surfaces on the saw as the Acetone will eat / remove the black powder coating. Lacquer Thinner would be okay as well and maybe a bit safer around the black paint, but not quite as effective.
There is no need to use WD-40. To wipe down the oil, use denatured alcohol and blue shop towels. After that, add some Johnson Paste wax or whatever paste wax you prefer.
Good video. Denatured Alcohol can be absorbed through the skin, damaging the kidneys. Best practice: use nitril gloves or solvent resistant gloves when using denatured alcohol.
A light application of paste wax on the miter slots is perfectly fine and will help anything running through the slots run more smoothly. It is important to buff the wax properly, however, because a build up of unbuffed residue can make sawdust stick in the slot.
I should have watched this video first. I have a brand new 3HP PCS and before running even the first cut, I tried cleaning with the T9 and Boeshield. Well I sprayed the T9 on the table top and the overspray got onto the t-glide rail and trashed the metal strip. So the miter slots and the glide strips look like they are 10 plus years old. Made me absolutely sick to my stomach. I am going to see what I can do to restore the metal, but I dont think it is going to happen. Ugh, brand new saw and it already looks used. Sorry, I'm just venting now. Thanks again for the video!
