Glad the slot cars have come back. I used to love them in the 60's. The smell of o-zone and rubber. Cars with metal chassis and plastic body of various mid 60's models.
Glue should always be applied with a toothpick. I use two glues - Zap a Gap and a 5-second bonding super glue. We use magnets and 35,000 -52,000 rpm motors here in Memphis TN. USA. We run Slot.it, NSR, FLY and some Ninco. Carrera, Scaletrex and Pioneer are considered "hunks of junk", but we modify them the best we can. The JB Weld is a bad idea if you need to swap out your motor. Don;t use concrete, use a motor mount screw. If your hunk of junk doesn't have motor mount screw holes, make them. You put magnets (optional), then the motor with pinion in the chassis first, then the bushings and rear axle because the chassis has to flex when you insert the motor. Lastly, don't glue tires on, get appropriate silicone tires that fit your wheels.
Great video mate, I have watched a few of yours now, they are always well made and very informative. I especially like the car upgrades you cover of the consumer level to what some may call prosumer level slot car builds. It is a great sport that can be enjoyed at so many levels - thanks for sharing!
Recently stumbled across your channel after deciding to drag our Quantum of Solace digital set out during lockdown. Although your mods are way beyond our needs, its fascinating to see what can be achieved. After seeing your Aston Martin GT3 mods, I bought the AM GT3 C4036! Best wishes from the UK. Steve
I don't know where about's you are in NZ but my buddy Mark Millings lives in West Port & he is the European Slot Car Champion & runs a club called West Port Slot Car Club Like you he's an absolute magician when it comes to building race winning slot cars Thanks for producing a cracking video
It’s a pity such relatively inexpensive modifications aren’t available directly from the manufacturer as standard, I’m sure most slot racers would agree that to buy a competitive car without recourse to chopping and changing the basics to get it to a decent track worthy state would be the preferred choice.
I appreciate the explanation but need to lean more what where to look for some of the tools of the trade such as: what is used on the new tires, where can you look for the truing tool used on the rear tires? Thanks in advance.
when cutting the plastic bodies i use a rubberized mat for better grip in holding the body in place. i understand that you may have to use the white table here for better visibility in the video but sacrifice some stability & precision. liked & sub'd
Hello, First...thank you for the videos. There are very useful. Some questions: Could you make a similar setup but with a Pioneer Camaro? Is it posible to chage the guide (nsr, Avant, Ninco...) to Pioneer cars? What is the manufacturer of the glue you use in this setup? What is the ref. of the nsr tyres treatment oil you use in the video "NSR Tyre Treatment oil"? Thank very much
ive had the same car the torqeu of the engine will eventualy break off the little clips holding the engne to the car also had 2 camaro's they broke right below the rearaxle.
Yes, there's one modification he should have made, replace the chassis completely, Scalextric chassis are CRAP... they break very quickly and are difficult to get to handle, as you can see, he has to modify the chassis, stupid thing to have to do... Scalextric build HORRIBLE cars... the bodies are ok sometimes
Because it's called modelling; enjoying the challenge of modification and adaptation. Something creative as opposed to unimaginative cheque book "modelling" that you propose. Thumbs up to the original poster of this video.
