Here is the mod I have done to the the SCGF 36. This is the full rendition of what I did to mod the blade. I did the same process for the SCHF 37, except that I did not use the wire wheel on the drill press.
You did a nice job on that. I have the exact same knife, all I did was coat the edge with a very fine bit of tape, sand blast it, and then parkerize it. Came out nice, smoother, and looks really sharp as well.
"Man up and Git 'er Done!" LOL!! That was great. Nice job, I just got that knife and was wondering why they put that stuff on there, but whatever. Thanks for a great solution!
Scotch Brite buffed (manually) my 36 blade. It is still black, but smooth now! Also used a chainsaw file to take the SHARP edges offa/from between that jimping/notching on the grip/handle.
I do another method with blueing. I use Oxphoblue. (If I spelled that correctly.). It’s from Brownells. I clean and degrease whatever it is I’m bluing. Usually, that’s gun parts, it it should work just fine for 1095 steel. After degreasing the part, I put it in a ziplock bag with enough bluing to cover it. Then I leave it from a few hours to a few days. It works great for me. It turns out looking very much like Parkerizing, very black. It also seems to be the most durable cold bluing that I’ve ever used. And I’ve used a lot of brands. I have even blued a Colt revolver. I did that several years ago. It is still black. Only wear is where the holster rubs it. But that is the same with all bluing. Works great for me, but, as they say, your mileage may vary. But the knife in this video did turn out well.
Yes, never ever wear gloves on anything spinning that fast.. if it get hot enough to burn you, then your ruining the heat treat, and I would much rather get a little kiss from the grinder, and suffer a little road rash then the potential of a loose thread getting wrapped up in the disk and mangling my hand... I always wonder how old timers can get thing so wrong. Heck , I leaned that I high school shop
I know ur “NOT” suppose throw ur knife but since the Schrade SCHF only cost $30.00 I decided try it as a throwing knife... stuck it 7 outta 10 times, on the 11th throw the knife hit oak tree flat ....it shattered into 3 pieces.... diff between a good heat treat & none... & Chinese Steel & US. Steel...
30$... we can shatter it into 3 parts 3 or 4 times before its costing as much as competitors. But I'm with ya... I'd rather buy once. I'll get US brand with a proper heat treat. If I'm out in the middle of nowhere... I'd rather it not break.
Great video! I have been planning on stipping the black from my knife and just wondering if im doing something wrong i cant seem to get the bolts out of the handle... using an allen wrench but ive been going at it for a while and they wont come out. Brought it to my brother and he couldn’t either. help!!
Some of the bolts are known to have Locktite on them, which makes them very hard to unscrew. Also, if they drew any moisture and got a little rust, that could make them hard to remove. The best method though, is to use 2 Allen wrenches, and then TIGHTEN the bolts first, then try to loosen them. This will clean off the threads, and after a couple or three goes, they will come loose. Did you get them out? I know your comment is months old, but I'm a curious sort.
wont last as its for chips in bluing on rifles not a full bluing job . thing you should consider ### polish the standard finish with (t cut or brasso ) it flattens the rough finish into a smoothe finish . 1 BLUING ISNT AS TOUGH AS THE ORIGINAL FINISH ,2 you should heat the steel hand hot prior to bluing , bluing is black rust and will rust more unless you oil it , it scratches so easily as its very very thin
the bluing wears off and will rust easier .. original finish is better much longer lasting . i did this 20 years ago on a ray mears knife .fine wire wool between coats AND WARM THE KNIFE OVER A STOVE . THE BLUING GETS INTO THE MICRO POR'S IN THE STEEL . GETS A DEEP BLACK FINISH ... BLUING COLD STEEL (COLD BLUING ) DOESNT LAST
