Other Spark Reviews: After 3000km: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cKzVGt4sWNY.html After 7000km: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0V7B8Tq5cpE.html
Hi, have you ever got your bars twisted so much that the leavers would hit the frame? Did you apply some protection on the frame in those places? Iv got brand new Spark just ready to ride for first time. Thanks for your videos, they are super helpfull! Cant wait for the next one.
Hey, thank you, congrats on the new Spark! Yes, there are few scratches at that area from few falls. But that happened before I had protective tape on the top tube - it kind of helps there. However, people tend to use this from Skean (or other manufacturer similar purpose): www.alltricks.com/F-41496-protection-velo/P-120843-skean_protection_legend_top_superior_tube_black Personally, I don't like it cause it looks nasty, haha!
That happened on my bike. I did not think to check clearance, so did not have protection tape in place. They say chicks love scars, so I'm ok with it. 🙂
Hey. I was wondering why you have such low bars, but still both spacers in place. Wouldn't it make more sense to remove those spacers and ride a higher bar? Is there any specific reason for it?
Hey, this is actually interesting topic which I am going to explore in the future - spacers vs lower tilt. Now in your provided example, lets say I remove spacers completely, and add -9 handlebars back. What it would get me, apart from a need to cut the fork? Regardless, this was chosen to increase the reach, without extending the stem even further. I am 185 and L size frame is at the upper limit.
@@tom10crafted got it. And I agree. Removing spacers or using a lower tilt should lead to the same result: longer reach and a lower upper body position. I was just wondering why you went with a lower tilt, but not wanting to cut the fork makes sense. I'm also riding a Spark RC L while being 185 😉 running the saddle a bit further back works fine for me but I might remove spacers to have a bit more weight on the front wheel actually.
@@flurin6278 Also, I think good indication about the stack of height is how you feel when climbing steep terrain. If you manage to keep front wheel on the ground - then it is not too high ! Aaand if you feel no discomfort in general - it is not too low :) I tried friends bike with -30, and it feels even better in a sense!
I broke my twinloc lever with dropper post remote, the one you show in this video. Is there a way to get a spare from anywhere? I've looked online and it's practically impossible to find it
@@aivatra Not very helpful, but: In UK: www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott_twinloc_2_lockout_lever_2022-18946 In Estonia: www.hawaii.ee/en/lenksulukk-twinloc-2-dropperile-downclamp-22-290009?search=twinloc Bear in mind product code for it is 290009 - that might help
thanks for a really nice review! I think that the new spark rc flight attendant completely on AXS will solve all the problems with cable management in the front. I am currently considering the choice between scott spark rc and santa cruz blur tr and it's really hard to choose the winner :)
Thanks! Well, I am definitely biased, but looks wins in Spark, ha! :) Those who think shock hidden in the frame is a headache, definitely haven't seen some tremendously stupid decisions by other manufacturers, WITH shock outside - but painful to setup. Talking Orbea Oiz here:))) Thus, unless there are major geometry differences there (check that), choose by the looks which you like the most:)
@@tom10crafted we live in a terrible time - there are so many different and beautiful bikes and it has never been so difficult to choose one xc bike :) lol
Hi Tom, Thanks for your vidéo, I have currently SRAM dub bottom bracket and I will change for Race Face. My question is how you manage to pull out the old bottom bracket, with hammer 😅or with an soft extractor but I think it can,t be use on Spark. Thanks for your advise.
Hey man! I am not familiar with dub BB, but as long as its press fit and you are not gonna re-use the same bb, all you need is: 1. Such or alternative tool to hammer out www.bike-discount.de/en/radon-pro-disassembly-device-for-press-fit-bottom-bracket 2. Stand the bike on the ground while hammering, and not on the stand (that will give more leverage and less stress to the frame)
I have the same bike and replaced the Twin lock (still working fine) with the rockshox Twistloc Ultimate P3 and the dropper lever is now a Shimano SL-MT800-IL. Personal taste but I prefer it. One issue I am beginning to have is that the fork lockout will not stay locked out and after a while the fork will start to lose height. I can rectify it by going back to pedal or full and then back to full lockout but then I will have the same issue over time. The cable is not the problem. It is very cold at the moment so I wondered if the oil was thickening and causing the problem (damper now replaced with Raceday 2) I went to a Shimano crankset (XTR) and their BB and it is fine. I have replaced the headset bearings but found that I needed to change the grease of the upper with Shimano Premium as the delivered grease was too thick and did not allow easy turning. I also have got used to the headset arrangement surprisingly and have no problems fittiing the cables provided yopu take some care on the orientation. I have not worked out a solution to make the cable/heaset routing more water resisitant but I see companies such as Merida and Canyon have given this more thought. Thanks for the excellent videos.
Hey John, thanks for sharing! Lockout is bit stubborn for sure, and it might be begging for service already. As I assume you are ridding in winter with cold temperatures, one of the things to do is set damper to be more faster. That helps a bit in winter - but certainly its more of an overall suggestion, than something which will help lockout to be working again rigidly! Currently I am running with Ceramic Speed headset (its not ceramic, but made by them:)) and I could say that with proper greasing from beginning bearings looks like brand new after whole season. Thus, original bearings concerns might have been a result of insufficient greasing in the beginning🤠
Hello! About "Race Day Damper" in the Rock Shox SID Fork. It is now the 3rd time lookout isn't working anymore. I have dismounted the damper by unscrewing it first at the bottom side. At this point already lots of oil came out of the fork on the ground. Again the damper leaks oil. Because of missing oil there is now air inside the bleeding system. This 3rd damper has approx. 2000km. A very weak part of the bike.
Hey, just to be clear - the oil coming from the bolt at the bottom is NOT necessarily oil from the damper - it’s oil from lower leg. Now with that said chances are high that bleeding might be needed for the damper, but special tools are required for that
@@tom10crafted Hmm, not shure what you mean. The fork damper is a closed system. There is a bleeding port on top of it where it is possible to change the oil and to vent it. I did that already several times with the effect that fork blocking works a few months. At the top there is a rubber bellows from which the oil comes out. In the standpipes of the fork there is no further oil. Unfortunately it is not possible to post any pictures here. But I remember a video in which you had the damper in your hand?!
Great videos! I purchased my first Mountain bike Scott Spark 960 I live on a relatively remote island (Siquijor) Philippines. My brand new bike 2023/24 will not hold the final lockout! It will hold the second lockout but not the full lockout. Can you do a detailed video how to adjust lockout positions?
Hey, thanks! I might do it in the future, but by that time - make sure on the following: 1. Your barrel adjusters are not too tight for fork/shock lockout. Try reducing few quarter of turns (like 1/4 clockwise) and see if it helps. 2. Check the bottom bolt of the lever - if it is not loose. 3. Alternative - unscrew the bottom bolt of twinloc and tighten the 15 size bolt/nut to which bolt of lever screws in
I am as surprised as you are 😅 Thats what happens when distributor in baltics takes monopoly OR when local bike shop does job poorly - not sure which is which 👹 This this great support.. Imagine I did not bought those spares and waited for them to arrive - the bike would be hanging more than being ridden 🤣
