Wow today i exparimented same of ur formuls i made heat transfer steacker by adding extra 5% foile dahasive result was amazing so soft very very less feel...thanks
Easy tapping that knife on your mesh putting ink in the screen. Gray looks to be PMS 423. Careful pulling the tank off - you don't want to smear the ink.
I have a hard time pushing white plastisol ink through a 230 mesh on a 45lpi half tone stencil, I keep getting inconsistencies on my prints. I don't want to push down any harder because my prints will smudge. Will curable reducer be a good solution to this problem?
After passing the first color (grey) will not stain the frame of the second (blue) and third (red) color? Why the ink of the t shirt is not wet? Thanks for the videos!
nice video, I will for sure try this method..I really dont like the hand that plastisol leaves but I dont like how fast waterbase ink dries...a catch 22...
Juan do you always use reducer ? I'm trying ecotex white and it's really thick hard to flood the screen with it. It ended up clogging my screen on the 2nd pass
Ive done this, but only up to 30%... Standard Graphics does the same thing.... its a cool technique IMO, and I dont mind the slight opacity reduction. Never heard of adding "foil adhesive" though.. is that part really necessary?? Thanks for sharing Juan. :)
no, the adhesive is not necessary but it helps a lot if you're working with poly-blends. thank you for your comment I appreciate the time you took to watch my video, thank you!!
@@LibertyGraphicDesigns I was only curious because I saw part of the image on the pallet. I am new to the screen printing business. I have watching your videos a lot. You give a lot of great tricks and knowledge. Thank yoj
Graphic designer that print tshirts, wears a tshirt with no design on it LOL, classic XD Great video, thank you! "En casa de herrero, cuchillo de palo" dicen haha!
Hey Juan, that is a good idea, I like the soft hand feel of this process, however, I have a question. You said to use 50/50 Plastisol ink with curable reducer and then you mentioned adding ADHESIVE but you did not say how much adhesive to add to the mix, can you give the ratio for the adhesive to add to the mix? Thanks
Great idea bro...I was looking for this since long time. ...Kindly send me the link for curable reducer and foil adhesives ....thank you buddy...good job....☺
Frontline Strong Apparel. it will work with all regular colors. If you want to use special effect inks, then you cannot use 50% reducer. Inks like metallic, puff, foil adhesive, white etc..,you can use max 5% by weight.
Mad max on the video I only showed white tees but I actually started with black triblend and heather grey... you can use what ever color tees you want just change the color of the ink as well. It dont have to be white and you can test just about any garment you want in this case the one I pick was the one that was more prone to fail.
Judy Galsick it doesn’t matter because each screen will get placed back in the same position so none of the ink on the bottom of the screen will smear or transfer to the shirt
Hay varios tutoriales en español, pero con equipo del sur. De México hasta la patagonia; no he visto videos con equipo "bueno" Catspit subió uno en español pero ahí se quedó
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yD79Eqijsx0.html this is for water based inks but its the same principal when it comes to plastisol inks
yes not a problem, the font I used is = Edwardian scrip ITC = and I added the tail on the "g" also modified the font with like contour, angles and curves
