Screw Cutting on a Myford ML7 Lathe - Part 2 - Cutting the Thread - The process from first scratch cut to full depth thread cutting of a Whitworth thread
Hi we are RDG TOOLS a Model Engineering tool company based in Mytholmroyd West Yorkshire. We sell new and used tools. We also own the Myford Lathes Brand. We took over Myford around 12 years ago. Both company's are in the same building and we are open to the public. We are still building new Myford lathes and refurbished Myford lathes. Great Video using the ml7
@@AdeSwash Hi Ade, Is there anything specific you would be interesting in reviewing? And as it's something we haven't done before how would we go about doing it? Thanks RDG TOOLS
Very nice tutorial. Might be a good idea to haul out the thread pitch gauge immediately after the scratch pass. That way you know the change gears are right right from the start.
Hi Chenks, not ever used a ML10, but I guess the principle is the same for any lathe with seperate change gears, you may need to find the correct chart that is specific for your lead screw dimensions
You're probably right. The ML10 appears to be a scaled down version of the '7'. Thanks Ade . . and thanks for the videos. I shall subscribe to your channel and watch your videos - they're nicely done and very informative. I also have a watchmaker's lathe which I know how to use, but it's very different to a Myford!
The top slide, you set it up using the screw gauge point which is 55 deg not the 27 1/2 deg half the thread angle. The tool point travel should follow the trailing edge of the tool point with full cut on the opposite flank. Good informative video's.
@@AdeSwash Just watched part one and your method of setting the compound or top slide only works for 60* threads i.e. Metric or SAE as the angle you set is the reciprocal, I think that's the word, of the 60* fishtail i.e. 30* near enough to the 291/2 recommended. However for the 55* Whitworth you are demonstrating the reciprocal of the 55* fishtail is 35*, way over the recommended 27*. To prove it I just dragged my old cross slide off the parts shelf and set it up. RonW, Canada.
Great videos thanks, what gears would you use to cut metric 1.0 and 1.25? on my chart it talks , driver, 1st stud(driven and driver) and 2nd stud (driven and driver)and lead screw
Hi David, here is my link to the Myford 8tpi leadscrew chart with metric gear sizes, - drive.google.com/file/d/1VpIAaEzeBGU2nt-ZT5uV4i_R-twOfRlR/view - remember if cutting metric on an imperial lathe you need to keep engagement with the lead screw at all times, so reversal of the spindle rather than disengagement of the half nuts. Regards Ade
Hi there, very informative, I've had my ML7 for a month now, and want to try some thread cutting. How are you zeroing the carriage to the same spot everytime you wind it back to the beggining of the thread? Thanks
Hi Kris, the carriage is just returned to a point within the full depth recess, it is not important to index this point, because the indexing comes from engaging the halfnuts onto the leadscrew by using the thread dial indicator, thus putting it exactly back into the position for the helix
Hi Warren, I use a resettable cross slide micrometer dial, which I bought for the ML7, but you could just use a sharpie to make your reference mark when thread cutting
Hi Ronnie G, no internal thread cutting video, sorry, but the same principle as the video, except with an internal cutting tool, hope you understand. Regards. Ade
Hi Hans, you can cut at whatever speed you are comfortable with, for me I prefer the low speed as it gives you more chance of accurate engagement/disengagement of the half nuts.
Is there any way to cut threads without going 5 times over, or to get the tool back in the track without the thread dial indicator, etc? I would be concerned about cutting across my own threads. It would come out more like knurling than threads.
Yep, you need to have the precise engagement of the lead screw otherwise the cutter will be out of sync to the thread you are cutting, and it will be scrap. You cant turn a deep thread in one pass, just the same as you dont turn a diameter to final size in one deep cut
Ade Swash Ade, you convinced me. I bought a thread chasing indexing indicator. I had to drill and tap a hole on the feed control box, but it seems to work! Now I guess I need to get into all of the pitches and angles, but I am learning! Good food for 74-year old brain. They included a table. I guess it says when to engage the feed...it goes to 13.7, but the wheel only goes to 10.....just keep going, 13.7= 3.7+10.? Do you let the wheel go around once, then engage at 3.7??
The young apprentice: "Hey boss! Should I finish the gear with one fat tooth or two skinny ones?" Actually liked the music. I have a Rivett, its like the USA equivalent of a Myford and this is very much like how I thread with it. -'lil stan
bought myself n ml7 couple of months back just this minuite finished last coat of paint on bed carnt wait to get it backtogether cross feed screw handel has been snaped off only couple mill of thread showing but that was about it bargain price aswell
