I’m an ex Bristol Channel , cod fisherman who is now lucky enough to fish, for five weeks out of the year, on North Island, NZ. I use the pulley rig all the time, mainly for snapper and kahawai. It’s simple, easy to tie and casts really well. I’ve found that if you adjust the rig so that you have a short hook length, it keeps your bait off the sea bed and deters the big Sting Rays from flying off with your terminal tackle, line and rod if you haven’t got a firm grip on it. Great video, thanks.
I put a swivel with a snap instead of a plain swivel so I can change the hook section for a baited set or a size change. I have a couple of different sizes set up as well. As a beginner this is great for me.
Preparing for winter beach bait fishing, great explanation on how this works. Bomb this one out 100/150 yards and another rod out around half that. Sweet!!
really like to use the pulley rig lol especially for surfcasting: it always goes out further for me plus sometimes it's tangle free although it can frustrating when the hook comes out of the impact shield
The thing with tying it like that is that the shock of casting is applied equally to your mainline and hook snood. The snood being weaker is more prone to breaking.
awesome video. what length is the body on that rig being made in the video? Also the breakaway weight being used in the video, is there a weight mould for that type.? I have been watching your lead weight making vid and i would like to make my own. thanks
Since I picked up a fishing rod last month I have been watching videos about bait. I don't recall from my youth ever using squid we didn't know what one was and mackeral was what you used if they were out of lug and you had to pay a visit to your fishmonger and ask for scraps with skin on. No one ever used double hooking that I knew. We used a 3 boom set up with one lugworm on each and always went home with something. Are these massive baits necessary ? I was baiting up on the beach yesterday with a squid and stuffing it with yesterdays lug, I looked at it and thought how many casts I would have got out of it years ago. If all I am trying to do is make a stink why not use one of those boily thingamies I see in the tackle shop? And use smaller bait.
Someone please explain to me how the hook snood doesn't take some of the strain when casting on this rig? I bought some pre made pulley rigs from ebay, 60lb rig body, 25lb hook snood, and 2 of the rigs broke casting them with a 5oz lead. If the swivel doesn't rest against the other swivel the tension in the whole pulley bit is the same throughout and is not adequate? Your shockleader is effectively reduced to 25lb or whatever breaking strain the hook snood is. Or am I missing something here?
Hi. What broke? The rigbody line? Or the snood line? (You may have found back the lost rig to look at it) Or did it just dissappear into the distance and you lost even the swivel? Losing the swivel could mean that the shockleader or knot was to blame. I make these rigs myself and always use "sliding bead" and strong shockleader. (Search for "cross line sliding bead swivel" and you will find them in sizes. I use these on lakes and wide canals as well.) Basic industrial safety... When hoisting weights, a steel rope sling that gets a 180 degree sharp crook into it loses 60 to 75 percent capacity. That's why you see these steel lining thimble things in the eyes of a sling. Same applies for fishing line crooked 180 degree by thin gauge swivel eye. You really have to use higher test compared to when you are using these pulley swivels. Using standard swivels, the eye wire gauge should be six times the diameter of the fishing line to not call it a sharply crooked bend. A sliding swivel will distribute the weight (casting forces) more evenly over the two sides. Why does that matter? The side with more Stretch wants to stretch or "let out" and if that has to be done over a sharply crooked bend, it can cause loads of friction - under extreme tension - and could end up in cutting through the line. (True test of the hooksnood should be a bit higher than half of the true test of rigbody.) My advice? Make these things for yourself, with known good materials, and get some "cross line sliding" swivels. I actually often use a two foot pulley hanging under a two-and-a-half foot. The hooksnoods are under two foot. The one with the longer rigbody is always connected to the schockleader. I use these IMP baitclips on the long ones. Instead of clipping in a weight, I clip in a second - shorter - pulley rig. The lower rig need not have an IMP, but if it has one then you need not invest in all sizes of these expensive bait release system weights. Then the weight goes on. I am Fishing two clipped baits that way. If you get inspired by this, search for IMPACT BAIT CLIP imp and you will find the original breakaway IMP clever little devil (I dunno if they have a USA outlet, UK Royal Mail is not easy on the wallet), or... (I just heard of Nick Myer from breakaway tackle , in Texas) The quality of some knock-offs can be a bit questionable, but you do find good ones too.
if you use this on a boat you don't cast to far. This particular set up is to long for me and a spinning flapping type bait will tangle this rig up every time. A very simple set up for small compact baits less likely to spin when dropping to the bottom or when reeling in
TAFishing Perfect! I had forgotten that one from you knot tying video. Less damage to the worm going on and a slight barb effect to keep it on. Cheers!
hey guys, and Tony, im on the east coast doing some big time Striper fishing dam near all year long, and i have a question and a comment, i use big bunker or spot chunks, how would this operate with the hook covered? and is there a solution to that, because im loving this rig setup
Miguel Santiago hey brother easy solution Nick Myer from breakaway tackle here in Texas has great you tune videos. What Nick does and me as well I connect the hook with a good size loop and crimp, then I just loop the loop on the impact shield. The hook doesn't get in the way. Plus all the stress during casting is spread out along rig body and snood.
I'm surprised Tony mentions he is using 35lb snood line on a pulley rig.From my understanding and from a lot of use the snood should be the same breaking strain as the main body due to the stress being put on the snood and hook. Hook choice should be kept on the larger stronger patterns as this takes the stress through casting also.Loving the videos still :-)
Main rigbody must Always be strong enough for casting (in case hook came loose from clip, for instance).However, when it is clipped down, the stress gets divided by two (two strands on one pulley) so a hooksnood of 35 is ample (times two it takes 70, in fact).What I do not like so much is using a swivel as pulley. A proper pulley bead costs more but it slides better and does not sharply bend the main rigbody.
I just asked the same question. I bought some pre made rigs off ebay 60lb rig body, 25lb hook length and 2 of them snapped when using a 5oz lead. Suffice to say I wont be using those rigs anymore. Your shockleader is effectively reduced to 25/30lb etc. Dangerous! Another problem is people use 80lb swivels which may be strong enough but they are too thin of a guage wire it cuts through the rig body too over time.
Chris king. Yes always tie shock leader when casting. Tie your shock leader to a line clip then attach your rig just clip your swivel on then you can change rigs any time you want. Tight lines hope this helps you.
I bet them leads are expensive.. that’s the con I don’t like, I make all my own leads so I won’t be using this rig unless it release’s of a standard clip ? Isn’t it a pity they don’t make PVA that melt’s in saltwater.. would solve so many problems…
