Sea Kayaking the Isle of Skye's West Coast April 2022 Part 1: Days 1 & 2
Day 1: Dunvegan to Meanish Pier
Day 2: Meanish Pier to Lorgill Bay
Our recent Sea Kayaking trip to Skye would see us kayaking almost the entire West Coast from Dunvegan to Spar Cave, South of Elgol.
The trip involved timing settled weather including Wind Swell and Tides to travel the exposed West side as it would be open to the full blast of any prevailing weather, with long stretches of coastline under 1,000 foot shear cliffs without any available landing spots.
Neist Point; would be the pinch point of the trip with it's strong complex tidal streams which can produce strong overfalls when opposing any wind or swell.
Day 1: Started with a beautifully calm sea and brilliant sunshine as we left Dunvegan to travel the 8 mile out of the loch.to round Dunvegan Head, during which time the wind increased and sea state began to chop up. Arriving at the head we were faced with strong winds opposing the tide race which runs very strongly off the end and around the western cliffs, conditions continued to worsen with breaking seas and strong gusting winds requiring a more focused paddling approach with a very visual effect of the strong wind against the tide race breaking heavily further out to sea!
The further South we travelled the more benign conditions became the more able we were to take in the magnificent 1000 foot cliffs indented with sea caves, Eagles soaring high on the up draughts and waterfalls plunging into the sea. The head of Milovaig and Waterstein came into view and finally we could see the entrance to Loch Pooltiel which we crossed in very strong winds from the stern to arrive at our camp spot for the night at Meanish Pier. We were greeted by a member of the local fishing community and allowed to camp in the shelter of a cluster of old boats hauled out on the grass behind the pier.
Day 2: We woke to lighter winds and calmer seas, breaking camp and heading South and around the point, the section of coastline gave way from shear cliffs to a wonderful array of pinnacles and prehistoric shapes, becoming more indented with deep caves and even more waterfalls. Soon after we could see Neist Point becoming clearer and and more prominent with its Lighthouse on the low headland as it jutted out West of the coastline.
Neist Point, the most Westerly point on Skye was the crux of the trip as the complex tidal streams and eddies which form in the immediate area can produce severe overfalls and huge seas with any opposing swell and adverse weather, thankfully the weather was kind and our timing just right!
On rounding the point we could feel the eddy current running out of Moonen Bay, we located a suitable lunch spot deep in the bay where we could land next to a waterfall.
Further south we explored more deep caves, natural arches and waterfalls as we made our way to our next camp spot at Lorgill Bay.
In the bitter wind we explored some of the ruins of the old community that once inhabited the area and spent a chilly night as the wind was being funnelled down the valley and straight out to sea. Too cold and windy to bother with a camp fire, we chatted in the tents drinking our supply of Whisky and Rum until it was time to retire for the night.
PARTS 2 & 3 TO FOLLOW SOON
25 май 2022
