Excellent video ! I have a 2010 210 Challenger SE (2x215hp supercharged). Installed 2 mechanical oil pressure switches to monitor the motors. The port side motor coming out of plane at 3000 rpm receives a low oil pressure warning then goes away. Replaced the oil pressure switch multiple times, had the motor pulled and replaced the oil pressure regulator valve. Oil and filter are changed every season and always good (no crushed oil filter). Same warning. Going to pull the motor and replace the front and rear oil pumps. Your video will help with this process. Thank you !!!
I have a problem with a 2010 GTX 155. The pressure light does not come on at low revs, but when accelerating, the light comes on. The oil pump was replaced and the same problem still exists. The oil pressure sensor breaks down very quickly. Have you ever had a similar problem? Please give me a tip.
Seeking your advice as I have found the issue. About 4 years ago a local mechanic replaced the Oil Pressure Regulator which he believed was causing the low oil pressure. It stopped the Low Oil Pressure warning light for a while, then it returned. Yesterday in rebuilding the rear oil pump I removed the bolt holding in the regulator. The spring came out, then nothing. I was able to remove the inner valve with a pliers, then 4 pieces fell out. The Top, it's 3 of the 4 side pieces and the Bottom. It was the outer valve that had broken in half. I believe one of the side pieces fell out when I was cleaning the PTO housing. Have you ever seen a Oil Pressure Regulator Crack ? Was the Spring or bolt too tight? I do remember the mechanic saying they had to put in 2 springs as per SeaDoo and yes there are 2 springs. By the way, I have posted several of my boat videos with installing a mechanic oil pressure gauge if you want to see them.
The only time I've seen them break is when water gets in the oil, it sits, rusts and then it fatigues and breaks. Same for the springs. Sounds like it was defective or potentially damaged when installed. I doubt the bolt was too tight since it bottoms out and then gets torqued. Usually the PTO cover would crack if it was too tight. As for the springs it depends if the proper one was installed.
Thanks for the reply. Considering getting a manufactured PTO housing from SBT. Inside of the oil pump housing is quite scorned as that one piece of metal scratched it.
Hello friend, your videos are great. Thanks for posting. I have a question. I’m rebuilding the PTO and followed your instructions for installing the oil shaft, ceramic bearing and oil seal. Once I was done. I noticed the shaft can be slid out by hand if I put enough pressure. I reset the depth and preload again using the tool. Is this normal? Should I be concerned? Your feedback is appreciated.
@@AndresRoque-t3c should not be able to be slid out by hand once the shaft is pressed into the ceramic water pump seal. Ceramic seal needs some preload on it that is set with the tool and the shaft should be kept stationary to keep that preload amount.
@@EastCoastAntics1 understood. The shaft is seated all the way in as is the ceramic seal. What could cause the shaft not to be tight when inserted. I’ll recheck.
Do the dots have to go down? The manual says nothing about which way they go. I can't remember which way they were when I took the original off, but one I bought on ebay, assuming it had not been tampered with, had the dots up so they matched the shaft gear.
One guypre on RU-vid says to change the Magneto housing too. I noticed the one in this video has the same scratches as mine on the magneto housing part of the oil pump. I replaced all the oil pump parts except the housing. The oil pressure warning light now comes on at 3800 rpm instead of 2500 rpm. Could it be the magneto housing, or is this rare? The scratches on mine are no more than the one in this video. Thanks!
Finally pulled my 1 Motor in my SeaDoo 210 Challenger (2x215hp) and getting ready to start this process. Need to order the parts and I am on the fence about ordering the WSM or SeaDoo OEM Parts ? Any guidance would be appreciated.
Like anything else some aftermarket parts are better than stock. Vice-versa. If it's not something time sensitive for me, I'm buying oem parts from seadoo.
Generally yes, unless that hole has been clogged up. I have seen many clogged up. Also there are plenty of other spots in the motor where oil and water could cross over if there is a problem or failure of a part (I.E. head gaskets, etc)
Hi@@EastCoastAntics1, Thanks for the fast reply. WSM want $105 to ship one to the UK! plus it'll take weeks to get here. I've got access to a lathe so can make one if I had the depth. Was hoping to speed the process up and save some $$/££
Hi, I need your help please. I did the oil pump rebuilt. When I put the cover in the rotor, it moves but something is touching it but it’s not that bad.
Hi, thank you. Basically the secondary oil pump is a scavenge pump that fills the oil tank and keeps it filled. Just like a dry sump setup on a race car works. This is to ensure that based on either g-forces or the orientation of the jetski, there is always a sufficient oil supply to the primary oil pump. The primary oil pump sends pressurized oil through the oil galleys to critical components like the bearings, oil squirters, head, valvetrain, etc.
Do you recall the part number kit from WSM for the oil pressure regulator? I can order the individual parts from another site. Would like the full kit. I can call WSM
Thank you. I found the individual parts on a few different sites. I also want to thank you again for the video. I rebuilt the front oil pump over the weekend. Now, working on the rear. Your video has made my life a lot easier. @@EastCoastAntics1
I watch a sh*t-ton of RU-vid videos and your ability to properly explain an assembly + add little morsels of miscellaneous details as you're explaining, make we wish you nothing but success with your channel. Excellent instructor. Two details I'd like to mention: 1. Is the scoring on the old gear part you were showing a result of Supercharger washer(s) failing? 2. That damn oil pressure regulator! - If ever you overfill oil in your SeaDoo, there's a good likely-hood that the oil pressure regulator will get stuck open (which is part of it's safety function) and you'll have to pull out the entire engine to remedy that! - Poor engineering on SeaDoo's part with that placement. Don't ask me how I know.
Thank you! Much appreciated. The scoring on the rotor and outter rotor can definitely get scored if tiny bits of of supercharger clutch washer (ceramic or metal) get passed the oil pump pre-filter. Definitely some poor engineering as like anything else in this world. There's always room for improvement.
Maybe you can help me?? I have a problem with my 2013 SeaDoo GTI130SE. Turns out we were getting an overheating alarm, my coolant has turned into a milkshake consistency and it only had about a cup of engine oil left in it. The oil has no traces of water in it. The unit has over 992 hours on it(hour meter quit working last year). I removed the oil cooler and pressure tested the oil side with 30 lbs. It appeared to hold. What next? maybe remove the PTO housing and replace the oil pump seal? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike
Thank you for your reply. Sorry for the delay in responding to you but it took me a while to replace the head gasket and get this thing back together again. When I went out to test it and it was surging and wouldn't stay above 5000 rpm. Gradually though it got better and began to run normally. I was periodically checking under the seat for any signs of leaks and everything looked fine until after probably 30 minutes I got an overheat alarm and the coolant reservoir overflow hose was spewing oily water. Once again, lots of oil in the coolant system, but no signs of coolant in the oil. Wouldn't I have seen oil coming out of the weep hole if the problem was the seal at the oil pump? Great video by the way!
@@mikeredfield2102 Sounds like the new head gasket went bad as well if there is oil in the coolant. Was the head checked for flatness and/or machined? Was the head properly torqued down? Could also be a bad oil and water pump seal and the weep hole clogged up. A lot of variables here. Could be a leaking oil cooler too.
@@mikeredfield2102 Keep in mind your oil pressure is a lot higher than the 13 psi coolant cap so if it's leaking in a oil pressure area, oil is always going to get in the coolant and not the other way around.
@@EastCoastAntics1 I did have the head machined when I changed the head gasket and installed new OEM head bolts and followed the tightening procedure. I also had tested the oil side of the oil cooler under water with 60 PSI of air pressure, it looked fine. I suppose I can do a compression test now and pull the PTO housing to check the weep hole. All I can say is that I'm glad camp season is over and the pressure is off to get this thing running because I'm stumped
These motors load and unload a lot when they come in and out of the water. People also chop the throttle a lot. You'd think impellers wouldn't come loose either since it tightens as it spins but they used to in the early 2000's and it still occasionally happens today and destroys thrust bearings in the motor. The loctite cannot hurt and there is no reason to not put some on the water pump impeller. Do you really want it to potentially come loose and overheat and ruin your motor?
Bonjour je voudrait vous contacté mais je trouve pas de mail. Je recherche le manuel réparation seadoo gti 130 année 2012 . Moteur 4 tec. Avez vous cela en pdf? Merci à vous
