Brilliant video. It has led to some Great comments and alternative advise. Not having the full bench and top tools as a good but basic DIY'er.. I very much appreciate the time spent showing the different techniques.
Nice work Brian. Seems a shame to Bowtie and then mount the shelf too high to see them..... Also be careful about dropping all your shims in from above - this is putting a downward tilt onto the backplate. Gravity already works in this direction - there would be merit to shim coming up from underneath.....Just sayin'.
Great idea on floating shelve, love the sleek look of the wood shelve but bow ties distract the whole look should of not crack the beautiful natural looking wood.
Thanks, I don't think I would put shims from underneath. They could fall out with seasonal movement. Also if you are distorting or tipping the bracket in anyway, I think you would be over shiming. The purpose of the shims is to take up the space if the wall is not straight, so when you tighten down the screws you are not sucking the bracket to the wall causing distortion. So again if you are seeing the bracket get pushed out of shape or tipping the shelf out of level, I think you would be using the shims incorrectly. That would be the same practice as anything you shim. Doors windows whatever
Dear b firth. In North America we are restricted to studs location (16inch on center). Still a 18 (46 cm) inch bracket is enough to make a 36 (ca 90 cm) inch long shelf. In Europe it may even be less, since you have solid walls and can have a screw (attachment to the wall) every 3-4 (8 - 10 cm) inches. Hope this helps.
Thanks for this video! I have had alot of issues delivering to clients only to have them destroy the project. This is a much better system to deliver to a client self install situation. I'm going to go to this system for all my deliverable projects.
Looks like a nice bracket and should work well for short shelves, but what happens when a client tries to install it on a long shelf with a wall that has a bow in the middle?
Have a bunch of live-edge off cuts that would make beautiful "floating" shelves but the real problem is they are usually about 3/4 - 7/8" thick which falls short of the required minimum of 1" for these "concealed" bracket/hardware techniques. I have ripped 1-1 1/2" slices from back side of my pieces to attach onto wall with screw-type attachments and then, in turn, used dowels to attach remaining shelf piece to the wall piece. Works well for weight bearing under, say, 15-20 lbs.
This video has convinced me to give this hardware a go since I have a client whose made a request for this exact thing. Too bad there's not a simple solution for scribing the shelves to the walls.
Thank you for this highly detailed tutorial! We are about to install an extensive set of Hovr shelves that will wrap continuously around both inside and outside wall corners. In construction phase, we took extreme care to flatten the walls and also installed continuous horizontal blocking, so we will not be limited to stud locations when mounting the male extrusion to the wall and hopefully will avoid the need for any but the slightest shimming. To keep the face edges of adjoining shelves aligned at corner joints, we plan to use Dominos and therefore will need to slide one shelf laterally to engage the Domino mortise after having mounted the shelves but BEFORE tightening set screws. Longest shelf is about 4'. Should we expect that a few mallet blows should be capable of sliding the shelf sideways, provided that we allow sufficient lateral clearance at the sides of the extrusions and mortises? BTW, Bondhus screw driver would be useful for tightening the set screws so tightly cramped to the wall.
Wow, those brackets are pricey! $25 per foot!! I wonder if you need the bracket the whole length of the shelf, or if you could do 3-4" every 18" or so. Seems very strong, so that may be a way to keep the insane cost down.
They have a break down on their website for what size you need for the size of shelf you are making. As far as price goes, I guess that's all I'm perspective. I work in million dollar homes, so to my clients the price is negligible, but if you're building a more modest home, I could see that might be a deterrent.
@@Benham_Design If you're doing something in your own home, and it's your own money you're spending, that's yet another difference. We're not all rich, some have to plan out the money we spend, others don't.
@@Benham_Designin my experience if someone is commissioning a custom floating shelf they most likely won’t be the ones installing it. The utility seems great but also seems like a vastly unnecessary cost compared to some other solutions already mentioned. My favorite method for hanging floating shelves is actually a hybrid of some comments, where the holes in the shelf for the rods are pre drilled to fit a piece of 1/8” flat steel with rods attached. There’s cutout in the back of the shelf to hide the bracket and is much easier to install given the bracket doesn’t have to be completely flat
Wow this seems like overkill. Clearly you are more experienced, but I will give you my recipe and I'd be interested in your corrections. At the local big box store use two pieces of "aluminum carpet trim" (Home Depot terminology). If you put one on the wall, and one on the shelf facing in opposite directions, you get a full length french cleat. When hung, the visible part next to the wall is about 1/8 inch (and hardly visible). But with your ability to countersink the strip, you can probably get it to flush up (using a far smaller router cut). Definitely within range of this DIY person. Requires: level, dry-wall anchors, drill, hammer, screwdriver. I originally used it to hang a headboard on a wall for an inflatable bed-frame that was too delicate to hold it.
This sounds absolutely GENIUS.. lots of Carpet Trim out there, so need to check out which works best. Trying to fit a long, old wood oak shelf with hidden supports. I've got good DIY skills & tools but don't have the long bench and router devices Brian has.
1/2 inch threaded rod. Mark a level line in the centre of where the shelf would be on the wall. Drill a slightly undersized hole directly into the centre of each stud about 3 inches in. Cut threaded rod to suitable length. Put the threaded rod into the actual chuck of your drill, and drive it directly into the stud. Once all are in you can knock the threaded rod sticking out from the wall left/right or up/down to make sure each is sticking out level/square. Measure centres of each rod and transfer to back of shelf, drill slightly oversized hole in back of shelf and then slide it onto the rods. Usually the threads grab the shelf enough to use no glue, if needed you can add abit of glue. Works fantastic, super strong
I bought this system after seeing your video and it works great my only complaint is that for the 8 foot long rail it was $150 Canadian dollars ( ouch) without the hardware kit
On something that long I might make the bracket that goes on the wall 10-12" shorter and give them holes every 2-3" so they just have to find the holes closest to the studs.
Great method if your building 2-3 , 4-6’ shelves for yourself. However, for a client who requests multiple closets , this nearly doubles the labor and cost of the entire job, resulting into unrealistic amount of money for even the wealthier folks. Great video and excellent craftsmanship, just wish you didn’t have dado a 30gal bag of saw dust for each board burning through router bits like wildfire and $200 cost.
Wow, that seems like massive overkill. And very expensive. In the UK that bracket costs £80 ($100US). You rarely see stud walls over here so you could easily pre-drill the holes in the shelf for the customer. I’m no expert but I thought virtually all US studs were 16 inches on centre and if they are not, the customer could tell you. I thought that routing the channel was a lot of work and I was disappointed to see that fixings were visible underneath the shelf. Amazon have excellent brackets (Gas N Pow3r Concealed bracket) that cost £9 for four and my granny could fit them. There is no problem with stud width either. Also, the need for shims is clearly a negative and totally unnecessary with normal brackets. Your shelves are great and these comments are no reflection on your work. My comments relate to the bracket system only and not to your lovely looking shelves.
If you pre drill the holes and the client wants to move it over 3" then the holes wont be in the right place. One persons overkill is another persons attention to detail and quality of work.
@@Benham_Design if you would kindly read my comments again, you will see that my comments referred to the bracket system and not the quality of his work, or his attention to detail. I specifically pointed this out at the end of the post.
Yes, I did read that, and that does change the fact that you started your comment with "WOW, massive overkill". I was simply responding to your comment as is. I did not take it as an attack on my craftsmanship but more as a complement that, I go above and beyond for my clients.
Richard, thanks for pointing out the 'Gas N Pow3r Concealed bracket' .. I'm a good DIY'er but need advice like this to step up to another level. Don't have big benches or professional routers like Brian so have to look for alternatives. Much appreciated.
Like the t-shirt! So I guess the main point about these cleats is that ideally the back edge of the shelf should be quite straight and go onto a pretty straight wall as it's much harder to scribe to the wall than with bolts.
Unfortunately they only work on the underside. However, they are small enough that they are not really that visible being on the back edge. You could also plug the holes with a dowel if you want to, that would help disguise the screw holes
These are nice, however if the shelves are installed high and they usually are , you will see the insert holes. I have yet to meet a client that won’t freak out about the holes so I’m never comfortable getting hardware that requires holes that will be seen
Weird, I've never had a client notice them or even freak out about the holes, they are on the back edge so even when mounted higher they are in the shadow line. If it does bother a client you can put a bung in the hole of the same species to disguise them.
A great product and a great video. Very well done and through. However, I think you’re in a tough spot with your product as both installs are above most DIY capabilities…IMO! Have you considered sending out your product with the idea of using the original attachment equipment but prior to sending it out, you pre-drill a series of hole for the client. Of course knowing that they will have a limited option of exact location that they’d like to install it. Or contacting them prior to drilling the holes and they locate and send you the stud locations? My guess you’ve already tried that route and it didn’t work out.
Since I posted this video, everyone says it's too expensive, or too complicated. But because of this video I have sold more floating shelves in the last year than I have in the 14 years I've been in business. 🤷♂️
½" all-thread is the absolute best. The bracket you showed at the beginning is relying on a small ¼" long set screw holding the plate to the pole. Simply thing to do. Drill a ½" hole in the center of a stud in the wall, do this as often across the span as needed. Put 2 nuts on the end of the all-thread and hammer it some of the way into the hole. After that, start turning the all-thread into the hole using a wrench on the furthermost outward nut(the inner one stops it from turning) Once you're bottomed out, remove the nuts. Repeat as needed. Now you place the shelf flat to the wall on top of the all thread and move the shelf to the location you want it. Mark the all-thread locations. Drill a ½" hole in the shelf deep enough for the protruding rods. Slide shelf onto rods, use dead blow when needed. Boom, done. Cost? What, maybe $10? How much was that french cleat and wow what a time consuming install that was.
While I think this is viable, my whole thing is an easy way for my clients to install the shelf on their end. This method still has my client risking drilling crooked into the wall, and drilling crooked into the shelf. As far as cost goes, I'm not really concerned. Most of my clients live in several million dollar homes so the cost is nothing to them. Most will hire a handyman on their end to install. But I don't know what this person's skill set is, so I need something full proof. And that is what this system provides.
@pepperman9, I know your method does work well. And I have done it. But I would not take the gamble of hitting a wire in the wall of a customer's home. It's just too big a risk for me, so I avoid all floating shelves unless I'm paid to install them before the drywall is installed. I have better ways to make money woodworking and I can sleep better at night knowing I won't have to go to someone's home in the morning and drill random holes in their walls.
If you need a cheap soluion you are not on the right channel. Here is a vidoe I did using a different method but it is probably just as much work and more risky to possiblly drill crooked. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fJ_Ldix8qF8.html
Sorry, no, I made that thing before RU-vid was invented. It's basically a piece of plastic with a slot on each end so a 1/4" bolt can slide in it, with a router bolted to the center.
Great but you forgot to mention thats its nearly 1 00 euro a foot , crazy expensive use HAFELE CONCEALED HIDDEN SHELF SUPPORT BRACKET FIXING MOUNT FOR FLOATING SHELVES will work on 24 cm shelf
OMG WHY ARE YOU YELLING!!!! YOU MISSED THE POINT OF THE VIDEO TO FIND A SUPPORT THAT THE CLIENT DIDN'T HAVE TO DRILL INTO THE SHELF. HAFELE REQUIRES DRILLING
@@tcoyle1950 again you are missing the point that clients that aren't handy don't want to locate studs and drill into a shelf. This is set up for the client and all they have to do is screw the bracket to the wall. I get paid to route a grove instead of drill holes.
I’ve put up a few shelves using this system. I would have to say that a person with limited skill would not be able use this system. You will need to have a higher degree of skill to install theses - especially adjusting for a wavy wall and scribing to the wall which means that you need to install the bracket that much deeper.
It's been quite some time since I posted this video and have shipped a few shelves set up with this system to clients with basic DIY skills, and all have been able to install them successfully.
That is the whole point of this system. I am able to set up the whole thing in my shop so all the clients has to do is attach the bracket to the wall and snap it into place.
I believe that you will have such a great house made of wood especially to you in heaven.. great job and I do learn alote of things from you my dear.. from Baghdad with love
Your comment comes across in a very negative light. Like if you drive a diesel truck gasoline would be useless for your truck. You buy the right type of fuel for the type of engine you have. Same thing here, you buy the right type of hardware for the type of shelf you are hanging. If this is not the right hardware no need to get your tighty whiteies in a bunch, just buy the right hardware for what you need.
I don't know what you charge for your floating shelves, but to add $150 for 8' or $99 for a 4' piece has to be passed on the the client or absorbed by you. I see below you are working on million dollar homes, but this is for a shipped product to same million dollar homes, they are probably not going to install it themselves anyway. I guess the selling price determines if it is worth it for you the builder and the end customer.
One of my pet peeves is when you all are trying to show us something, You run into a little snag and then you clip the video, so we can't see what you did to get past that snag. And you come back, and it slides in. What if we get material and we run into a snag?? We'll never know what you did to fix it. You didn't show us or tell us. I understand You wanna try to get it to look as best you can because you're doing video production.But it's supposed to be about teaching . About demonstrating.😢 About two minutes and fifty-seven seconds into the video It's done By most people on their videos. Not just you. otherwise. Good information. I just had to vent, sorry.
RU-vid and other social media are not great platforms for learning things at a high level, but more about giving an overview on a particular topic. If you want to learn at a high level I would recommend paying for a class. I have a few available at www.digitaldesignconcepts.art The reason why YT and other social media is not good for deep learning is because the content creator is always battling the algorithm. Too much info people get bored and click away then the algo stops show the videos, and on and on. Platforms have also taken away the incentive to make free content, most are a pay to play if you want your content seen. But the #1 reason I no longer put much details into my video is because of people. They nitpick my work, they complain about the music choices, they complain about the editing style, they complain about everything, just like your comment here. Just another person complaining. Imagine you are an expert Juggler and you want to teach others for free how to juggle. So you go to the park and offer to show people how to juggle, and few people are interested, but then every few minutes some rides by on a bicycle and throws rotten eggs at you. Every day, every hour more rotten eggs come in. How long would you continue to go to the park to teach people for FREE how to juggle. Probably not very long. It's free for you to watch, if you aren't satisfied with what you get for free move along. I know you just wanted to give feedback. I didn't ask for feedback, Your pet peev isn't phrased as feedback, it's phrased as a rotten egged compliant.
