Hello Ralf, really nice machine. I looked quite a bit of machines on RU-vid, really like simplicity of your design. Do you use some gear reducers on x,y,x axe, if so how much? Also, i see that you use MACH3, do you have any other recommendation now?
Hi looks great similar to one I am making, not sure to use rack and pinion or ball screw as my longest side is 2000 mm what diameter size screw did you use and did you get any whipping of the screw at high speed i am looking at r2020 screw 20 mm dia but unsure if it will be ok.
Hello Mark, I use 25 mm spindels whit a 10 mm pitch.. my longest screw is 1500 mm and is maximum lenght i think, but at a bigger pitch motors rpm will be less fast for the same running speed.. for 2000 mm i would go for rack&pinion system i think.
I use it for many things in my company. Its verry usefull. My 1e machine is running.. this machinebuild is on hold because of the economic crisis. one day i can finish it.
Hallo Ralf, ik wens zelf er een te bouwen en mijn vraag is ofwel ga ik voor een tafel van 1600 x 1500mm of 1600 x 2500mm zodat een standaard meubelpaneel (B=1250mm )er in kan. Ik weet alleen niet goed of ik motoren Nema23 of Nema34 moet gebruiken en welke soort (afmeting) Linear Bearing? Zal gebruikt worden voor hout, kunststof en alu Wat is jouw idee aub.
Trespa is a plastic sheet material, which is produced from thermosetting resins, which are reinforced with cellulose fibers. The production takes place by mixing with fiber material and resin material to be cured by means of heating. Trespa has high impact resistance, a closed surface (therefore easy to clean), fireproof (no melting or exploding ring risks). It is to edit with sawing, drilling and milling tools suitable for hardwood.g greetz Ralf
Trespa is normally used outside for decoration on buildings..low maintanance materials.. normally used in constructions is 6 or 8 or 10 mm.. Its soo much better then mdf or hdf..
HPL stands for High Pressure Laminate, also called laminate, or plastic plate mentioned. High Pressure Laminate (HPL) is a combination of pulp and phenolic resin, with a hard top layer made of melamine resin. Melamine resin is the hardest synthetically made organic matter. This also leads the major Krasen wear resistance of HPL. The tough and elastic fenolkern makes it impact resistant material. this characteristics associated with a wide-ranging resistance to chemicals, and a large heat resistance.
Trespa is a flat panel, based on thermosetting resins, homogeneously reinforced with cellulose fibers and manufactured under high pressure and temperature. (Trespa is like compressed paper and gleu under high pressure) Its verry strong ..but not on the end faces.. Normally 6 8 or 10 mm is used.. i found 20 mm but is little bit hard to get.. The name of the song is "Burn the witch" from "Stone gods".
Ralf, Who did you get the leads crews from? I am in the process of build a 6' x 10' CNC Router and am interested in putting lead screws on it instead of rack and pinion. BTW, nice job on the CNC table.
Geiles Video, geiles Lied, geile Fräse, geile Frau an deiner Seite!!!!! :-) kleiner Witz am Rande!! Gefällt mir wirklich gut was du da zusammengebastelt hast !!!! Weiter so..... Ich traue mich gar nicht zu fragen was der Spaß gekostet hat, deine 2 Riesen sollst du wohl sicher geknackt haben !!??!!
that's very nice machine, i love it so much but it will be much better if you replace that material with aluminum. The best of all is that commercial looking case with electronics
Nicely done!!! Good craftsmanship, great tunes, and what a cool shop. I like the post and beam ceiling, haha... What kind of driver board are you using? I'm looking at a g540, but the tb6560's are so much cheaper... How much would you estimate that you have invested?
Hi..i wanna use the USBCNC CPU V4 from damencnc.com and i will use about 7000 euro in total for the whole build I use it for my company so i need a strong reliable machine!
Julius Jahn you mean perpendicular to the x axis rails? still not sure what you mean. the ends of the aluminum profiles of the gantry are perfectly 90 degree cut over 2 sides. and are same lenghts.
Ralf Klaassen your Hiwin rails are on the top of the frame. Your gantry is on the side of it. You need that butt-joited piece of aluminum to connect the rails to the gantry side plate. I worry that this would be a weak point
i run the cnc for long now.. i dont hear or see anything wrong, and it cuts beautifull. no worry here :-). I understand what you say now.. but it has no movement. Gantry material is verry stiff. the gantrry profiles are also connect to ech other so it can not move from each other. For any future builds i would put the hiwin directly under the gantry profile to make that gap as small as possible.
Die 80x160 profielen heb ik van damencnc.com ... het is van het bedrijf "Item" uit Duitsland. Ik zie op de site van damen dat ze niet alle afmetingen van item meer verkopen. Maar daar kun je even over mailen of bellen naar hun. anders kun je ook direct van item bestellen. Damen verkoopt hoofdzakelijk MayTec nu als ik de site nu bekijk
Any chance you would be kind enough to tell me how much I could build one for myself? Would be greatly appreciated as I am in the begining stages of research and have set my mind on building one. Thanks in advance and nice job. WOW!
Hi Ralph, First I've thought you are using Line 8 160*80+80*80 LIGHT profiles, but on x times replaying your videos I think the profiles are Line 6 120*60+60*60 Light. Is this correct? What did you use to connect the rail to the profile? It looks like you used normal profile nuts (longer ones) instead of Item's rail mounting rod that fits only the Line 8 profiles. I'm building a machine almost like yours, only the side "towers" of Y will be of extrusion (maybe 160*40) and the Y beam will be from single 160*80. But the price difference between the line6 and line8 is almost the double so I prefer the line6 if it's suitable for the job.
Hi Zoltan, I use 160*80 and 80*80 light profiles.. and also the profile conectors to use for connecting hiwin to the line 8 profiles. dont buy to cheap..it will bite you later..:-)..also depends on what you wanna use your machine for.. I want the machine to be strong for cutting wood and aluminium
Ralf Klaassen Hi Ralf, Thanks for your answer! Yes, I hate bitemarks to, especially on the wallet :) I already spent around 1k euro on parts, and the machine is still on the paper, don't want to ruin it now. I'll go with 16/80+80/80! Yours are light version if I'm correct? They are still very massive pieces. My goal is to build a machine capable working on aluminium and softer materials. It must be as strong as possible. Can you please explain in few words how hard was to align the rails? Did you machined the profiles where they contact with the rails? Is the Item's factory cut precise enough to get the frame together, or you had to machine it afterwards? About the connectors? Is it this one: 0.0.427.39? Thanks!
***** Yes i use the light version light version is more then strong enough in a good construct build. i also use 40x80 between the bridge profiles to remove torsion in it. its become a verry strong setup. for align the rails i use 80x160 on perpose because they dont bent...and you can asume they are straith.. i use a clock to straithen it whit the sides.. if you dont have the profiles in between not exact..its a problem.. you can also put the profiles under the 80x160..and the problem is solved. then you can also make the bridge lower to the rails..so more strenght in the machine. I think directly from the item factory it wil be cut verry percise..but check it good greetz, Ralf
Ralf Klaassen what size Hiwin ? I am looking at changing my setup too, also is this machine pretty precise/accurate at cutting? thx! my machine I am building is about 2ft x 4ft, right now I have shafts with no support (2 shaft supports on either side of the machine) on my 4 ft long X-Axis and it wobbles when I try to rock the machine with my foot (shafts are 20 mm thick) thx!
Machine is verry accurate..verry please with the stiffness. Z-axis is mounted now and its great!! I use HG25R type hiwin linear guides for the X-axis and HG20R type hiwins on the Y and Z axis. www.damencnc.com/nl/componenten/mechanische-onderdelen/hiwin-linear-guideways Greetz, Ralf
***** The problem of your circles is your x axis is not perpendicular to your Y axis.... Cut a square or rectangle shape as big as possible on your machine... measure the diagonals and adjust the sensors till the diagonals are exactly the same length. so every time you adjust your sensors.. cut a new square or rectangle and check it again... if you have 1 motor on the bridge instead of 2 motors..you need to be sure the bridge is perpendicular to the table. Greetz, Ralf
thank you! when you say "sensors" what do you mean? and by saying "bridge" you mean the part of the machine that is the Y axis (where the rails are right?) Thanks! also what are good motors to run these cnc machines? I see people running them at 600 inches per minute here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u_JIvc4MaGg.html but on my machine the motors stress out at that speed for some reason and make bad noises. I tried running the motors at a high speed before without them connected to any load and there was always a speed they could not run smoothly at (they would hang up on me) these are the ones I bought, buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-nema24-425ozin
***** by sensors i mean my inductive proximity sensors.. i mean the home/limit switches... I use 2 motors to power the bridge...so i have 2 sensors ..1 at each side of the bridge.. When homing the motors.. they home independently.. after they are homed they work as home/slave axis.. Running the motors at 600 inch per minute is a verry high speed.. mine runs at max 240 inch /minute. Running the motors at that speed.. you must make sure you dont lose any steps... If your machine needs to run 8 hours a day and have to make mass production high speeds are good... but when you make a single product ..why so fast... lett the machine run that steps are not lost.. also tuning the acceleration and deceleration at a speed that there is no step loss.. I use nema 34 motors with a 4 nm torq
***** When you uise 1 motor and a belt to power the "bridge"of your router then you have to make sure your bridge is exactly perdendicular to your table... thats why i like 2 motors ..and let them home independently..
I dont have a belt really, but I read that could help with increasing the resolution by decreasing the steps/inch is that right? I uploaded a pic of my cnc machine :) let me know what you think! imgur.com/gallery/ZcJZip2/new
+Ralf Klaassen I am also wanna make a big size homemake CNC router to make aluminum mold for my compasite parts, your project seems perfect to me, could you please tell me if your router(solution) capable for doing 7075 aluminum within tolarence +/- 0.1~0.2mm? I am gonna buy analogical materlal then build one by myself, best regards - Cyrus
Fantastic job !! really nice..... did you accept to send me cad files ? I would build one, smallest but i will use your plans to inspire me and draw my own .... Really a big thank you if you accept...
Gotta say, you are cycling through the pics too fast. I need more than 2 seconds to assimilate the information. Maybe 4 or 5 seconds per pic next time would be good.
Hello Ralf, really nice machine. I looked quite a bit of machines on RU-vid, really like simplicity of your design. Do you use some gear reducers on x,y,x axe, if so how much? Also, i see that you use MACH3, do you have any other recommendation now?
gear reducer is the ballscrew 1rev off your motor is 10mm movement together with some micro stepping on the driver makes it a accurate machine. i bought most of my stuff at damencnc.com www.damencnc.com/nl/componenten/mechanische-onderdelen/isel-kogelomloopspindels-25mm .... Mach3 is ok and i worked with it for long time now.. but i would recoment a board with an own processor on it, so it doesnt interfear with the computer when using the cnc .
How about adding 4th axis, it seems like not to difficult to do, if your machine is a bit longer you could accommodate it easily. also, how about adding vertical aluminum sheet so you can turn parts 90deg? Also, seems not to difficult if add a bit longer machine and do it at the end of machine? Or maybe all this you don't need for your business. Anyway, I really like your engineering and the way you executed things. It looks really good. Attention to details is superb...
The lenght of the spindle over a meter can start wobbeling or give onbalance. my machine is 1100 mm in lenght in work coordinates(1500 mm spindle). it doesnt wobble but i dont use high speeds. so there is a limit in lenght and diameter of the spindle and how fast your motors spinning. or else you need a different system (rack and pinion for example) 4th axis is not what i need but i like to experiment with it in the future, but dont think its easy..because i think you will be figuring out some stuff before it starts working :-) using a piece of table to put in an angle up to 90 degree i was allready thinking about intgrating into my other cnc :-)
Anyway, so your machine is X x Y 1100 x 1500 mm and this is about maximum you can do with ball screw? and even that with lower spindle speeds? Or it is z axis that you have to be careful about? As for 4th axis, I agree, there is wiring to be made, controller to choose and software to be understood. So, what is your maximum spindle speed you use in this setup? How many KW is your spindle? Ill be doing some 3d design when i have time, I think I will follow your idea, it is a nice hobby/business you have:) Have you considered linux cnc?
My machine is y750mm x x1100mm ..my spindles are aproxx y1000mm and x1500mm. My spindle (at the moment)is a kress 1000 watt ..not a heavy spindle. the big cnc (i have to finish yet)will have 5.7kw motor and a 1250mm x 3050mm work area. My feed speeds are 5600 mm/min max on x and y and 2000mm/min on the z . no i am using mach3 for years and know a lott from it.. i will stick to mach3..and will transfer to USBCNC on the big cnc. because of the board its using.
