The pump is held on with a metal bracket, the bracket is held on with I think 3 m6 cap heads you access them through the inlet manifold ( look down into the engine bay through the manifold and you’ll see them) Once they are taken out it’s just a matter of unplugging the hose attached to the pump, unplugging the electrical wire and then wiggling the pump out of the engine bay 👍🏻 I hope this helps, I took mine out a while ago so tried my hardest to remember 😂
Great video. It’s always been educating watching yours! When I changed the air intake, I accidentally broke the small ball-shaped connector where right under the air-flow sensor hose. Now I put some adhesive tape on it and I can still hear some air leaking when idling. Even after the whole SAI delete process I saw it’s still strongly tightened. Would that be a big problem in your opinion? Thanks 🙏🏻
Thank you mate 👍🏻 I’m not sure what you mean by ball shaped connector? Air leaking from anywhere isn’t great in my opinion if the cars running ok then the tape is doing it’s job but it’s something you need to get replaced 👍🏻
Why would you ever cut an o-ring to make it smaller to fit? I mean, maybe if you're stranded at the side of the road and just need to get to safety, but otherwise..
Doing this will throw an engine code now n then, the best solution is to get it mapped out by a tuner, the other method is just keep deleting the light with a scanner tool 👍🏻
hello good man, i need your help. did you put the hose on it from the blowoff? I see you have a cable tie on the intake leg. at the beginning the ear cuffs were originally installed. sorry my english is not the best. you have a hose from the intake to the blowoff, is a cable tie enough to fix the hose? thx man
yeah the cable tie holds the vacuum line on no problems. the line was a bit smaller so had to really wiggle it onto the nipple. you can put clips on there if you'd like i was just being lazy
It doesn’t do much for performance if I’m honest it’s just one less thing to go wrong. You don’t need it it’s purely for emissions, an air pump sucks fresh air and dumps it behind one of the exhaust valves, it’s to do with heating up the catalytic converter faster on cold starts etc
Temperature sensor housing? Here is a link to a all metal setup creationsmotorsport.com/vw-mk4-golf-tt-audi-1-8t-20v-cast-aluminium-coolant-flange-upgrade-kit.html This is the plastic one the part number is on this website too: www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/1886092-febi-bilstein and this is just the metal one on its own: ebay.us/n8gh12 i hope this helps
The SAI plug with or without a resistor will throw an engine code eventually, I believe the only way to keep it off permanently is having it mapped out via a engine tune 👍🏻
As far as I’m aware it’s literally the only way to get rid of it permanently, otherwise you can get a £20 code reader off the fleabay and keep deleting it every 100 or so miles 😂👍🏻
You can leave all the stuff in place and just blank off the plate on the side of the block but it’s kinda pointless, it really is such a simple delete you might aswell do either all of it or none of it in my opinion. It’s entirely up to you but either way you’ll most likely have to use the resistors to stop engine codes coming up. I hope this helps 👍🏻
@@CarsandEngineering it was running good and I put the block off plate as instructed? I’m guessing limp mode cause of the delete?If anything would you know a tuner more economical for the delete?
@@CarsandEngineering you mean the n112 ? Yeah and th3 n249... those came with the sai delete kit I got from uro tuning .. I think it just might need the tune .. it’s a project so I’ll keep you updated pal thanks
I didn’t drain the coolant so when I took the temp sensor housing off the block to blank off the sai on the head some coolant did come out, not loads I think it was like half a litre or so? it would be worth draining the system beforehand but if you’re not able to have plenty of rags or an old towel on standby to mop any old coolant up 👍🏻
It’s attached to a mounting bracket via bolts from above, and there’s a electrical connector to remove too, that’s the main pump anyway, it’s easy to get out just a little bit fiddly 👍🏻
The o-ring is for the temperature sensor housing but I’d recommend getting the housing too, in the video you see that the plastic deteriorated into nothing, I’m going to be upgrading it to a aluminium housing in a future video. 👍🏻
