Great breakdown. You rock. I was having a code appear after a timing belt job from a shop. You guys broke down what the parts looked like and where they connected that when I went out to the car and investigated I discovered that the shop had left a hose disconnected. Saved me time and money from them having to do anything and me having to go on my free time and sit around as they look for the problem. Thanks again, keep it up.
To trouble shoot try this: Step 1. Trace the vacuum line from the secondary air pump valve (mounted to front exhaust port) back to the vacuum solenoid located at very rear of engine (you will need to remove the air cleaner box assembly to do this) and confirm no broken or leaking vacuum hose; Step 2. Unplug (the same vacuum line that you just check) from the secondary air pump valve (valve is bolted to the exhaust port on cylinder head). Step 3. Start the engine when conditions are present that secondary air pump runs (cold engine). Step 4. a). If there is vacuum flowing through the vacuum hose that runs to rear of engine, that then stops flowing when air pump stops running, then the issue is the secondary air valve bolted to cylinder head. b). If there is no vacuum while the air pump is running, the issue is the solenoid, or broken vacuum line running from solenoid to intake manifold. Check Vacuum line is OK, replace solenoid. NOTE: To check if vacuum flowing through vacuum line, use smoke source.
Great Tutorial on Secondary Air Injection System. Its the best by far I've seen. We own German Vehicles- and this tuturial will help with the Diagnostic/Troubleshooting of our fleet. Thanks a million.
Thanks, helped me understand the system and diagnose my issue with VAG (ended up that mechanics swapped two relays when I had a lot of issues with wiring)
This was useful to me. My output hose was broken. (2.7l twin turbo. The output line splits. It was broken on both sides. Someone tried to fix it - poorly.) My only suggestion would be to show some pictures of the system in-place.
We're a theory site, not a repair manual. I recommend buying the factory Bentley repair manual for things like that. I'm not sure if you have an S4, or an A6, or an Allroad, but they secondary air system is different in each vehicle, I think the S4 doesn't even have it. The Allroad the pump is down in the back sort of under the intake manifold, and the kombi valves are on the back side of the head so it'd be very hard to show it in place. That's why it's useful as a mechanic to understand the theory of how the system works, because once you do it doesn't matter WHAT German car you're on, whether it's a VW, BMW, Audi, or even a Porsche, they all function the same, the parts may be slightly different but you can deduce how it works and how to fix it. I know it's probably WAY too late but this heat shrink tubing here is the best way to fix it. Some 2" heat shrink even has glue in it. You can put hoses back together that are missing large gaps even. www.delcity.net/store/Triple-Wall-Tubing/p_330.h_77221
It varies so much from application to application it would possibly be more confusing. Some of them have kombi valves with vacuum disphrams and a vacuum solenoid, some of them just blow open from the airflow of the secondary air pump, some of them have electronic kombi valves that use an electromagnetic solenoid to open. They all function the same though. I probably could stand to talk about how to repair them. There's some really big heatshrink tubing that's very heavy duty that not only does the job well but looks kind of OEM when done as well
Great info, any idea why both of my air pumps will have stopped working after they were disconnected during the coolant pipe upgrade on a 2004/5 V8 Cayenne?
Thanks for this video. I have a 2005 Mercedes SLK 350 and noticed the usual slight whine only at cold start up getting much, much louder! Going to have hood open tomorrow b4 starting and run out and put ear by the secondary air motor. Fortunately no warning lights yet and the pump is right up front and top on right, easy to see and replace!
Except that they're often 600 dollars. Look and see if it's riveted together, the rivets start to fail and the housing seperates. Drill the rivets and by it together.
this informative video deserves a positive comment..great job, i hear an air output leak when pump is on and now from your video i figure output hose is cracked or my pump housing at the rivets has failed, thanks again.
Can you clean a Kombi valve that's stuck open? I stuck some rubber gloves on my jetta and with it shut off the valve should have been closed but the gloves filled up quickly when I jumped the secondary air pump. Thinking that the valve is corroded and stuck in the open position.
I'm hoping you might be able to help me. I have a 09 Jetta Gli with cali emissions and i got the error code p2432 which is the secondary air pump sensor. I have found plenty of threads talking about it but nobody really has said where the sensor is located. I can get the sensor from work no problem but I don't have any idea where to start looking.
Any idea what the standard vacuum measurement is for the Kombi valve to open? My 01 Audi TT provides a vacuum when it should. It's a bit weak, but the smoke test came out with no leaks. The valve opens with a Harbor Freight vacuum hand pump at 13 mmHg, but the car only registers 6 mmHg, when I hook the hand pump up to the line to measure it. Not sure if my valve has gone bad or something else on the intake not creating enough vacuum. Any help would be awesome. Thanks.
10 q5 3.2 ,swapped driver side head ..the new head doesn't have the port to connect the SAI. ..can I bypass the head and just drill a hole in the exhaust manifold? car runs good exept it throws a code fo insufficient flow detected. would that solution make it for the code not to set again? thanks in advance
I had to fix my SAI system (2001 VW Passat wagon, 1.8T) to pass California smog. Replacing the somewhat carbon-clogged combi valve eliminated the check engine light, but the readiness monitor never cleared to 0 (ready). On cold start, I found no vacuum at the combi valve vacuum control inlet hose, but vacuum at the "F-hose," which pretty much pinpointed the SAI control solenoid valve under the intake manifold. I replaced it, and the discolored and stiff silicone vacuum hose connect the two, drove a 10-mile loop with a couple of decelerations from 45 mph and 3 restarts, and I was ready for my smog test. :)
Thank you for explaining your process on how you fixed the infamous SAI system on VW/Audi platform. I also have AWM engine code 2001 Audi A4 1.8T and lived with the infamous P0420 SAI system fault for 13 years. I never studied the SAI system because in NJ you are allowed to have one readiness monitor not complete and NO check engine light. I had a general idea that the n249 valve (SAI control solenoid under the intake manifold was the culprit since mine are original to my knowledge, I am ready to tackle and finally fix it for good.
@@JerZeyFiveOh Easy test of that control solenoid valve: disconnect the hose to the control port of the combi valve, put your thumb over the end of the hose, do a cold start, and check for vacuum. No vacuum (my case) --> leaky vacuum valve portion of the solenoid control valve.
Awesome vid mate.. question..i have a peugeut 307. P0410 fault has been diagnosed bydealer as a problem with the air pump and valve...have been looking everywhere to find out what this valve was, because i am going to source new parts rather than pay dealer prices and tbink u have answered it.. The kombi valve...have a great weekend and thanks again👍
I have the famous P2432, I replaced the sensor on the line coming from the Secondary Air pump My pump runs 100% I get code on VCDS P2432- 002 Short to Ground Secondary Air Inj. Sys. Flow/Pressure Sens Bank 1 I have 4.2l FSI V8 I am assuming it’s the bank 1 sensor - the left sensor of the 2 sensors next to each other with small Vacuum lines from Kombi Valves I appreciate you guys for helping out
I have a check engine light on my 2000 vw jetta and it was code p0411. I bought a new air pump and put it on and the check engine still came back . I need a smog test too. I bought this used car. What should I do? What can I do?
I have a bmw z3 is a 2000 I have the check engine light on I went and they said at outozone is the ECM detected too much secondary air injected can u help me I don't know wat is that
I have GL 450 2015 looks the water the secondary water pump doesn’t work. I touch the water reserve it cool but my car is at high temperature. Can you explain why is it like that. I replaced the water pump.
I have an 08 Jetta 2.5 and the secondary air pump keeps blowing the fuse I'm not sure weare the pump is located I think it's under the intake manifold if someone knows please help
Hi. Secondary air pump issue will be caused by P0430? If catalytic converter is clogged, then this pump will run continuely? My pump does not off even after starting of car for 20min
ready I already put some new spark plugs and ignition coil. Still have the same problem Code : Random/Multiple Cylindre Misfire Detected P0300 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent p0302 - 008 It is not dripping coolant by the spark plugs, I mean they are dry (As it should be) Audi 2004 A4 Quattro 2004 1.8
try unplugging the air mass sensor, it will go in emergency mode and if it runs fine reaplace the air mass sensor, this just happened to my car some days ago and the engine did stall completely sometimes
Checked the combi and its fine..vacum all ok..secondary air solenoid works..i have no power to the air pump..it just wont start in the mornig.I have vacum on the combi valve and its opens when cold (i can hear the exaust if i unplug the hoses from it) and closes fine when engine warms up. Could it be a relay? I have no leaks from the solenoids and hoses, not even from the pump. I think my problem has to do with the power. Any sugestions?
Two questions for you: 1. What is minimum intake vacuum needed for the Kombi Valve to open properly? 2. My problem appears to be the actual machined port in the head being blocked by carbon build up. Do you know what the best way to clean out all the carbon build up ?
Thanks for the great video. I have a 2003 Eurovan 2.8L 24V VR6. First start everyday (or after sitting several hours) regardless of outside air temp the Idle runs bumpy for about 90 seconds at 1300 rpm. Then it settles in at 800 rpm and runs great. Guessing the bumpy idle has something to do with the secondary air system. Any ideas what would cause this and anything I should worry about damaging letting it run rough? If I immediately turn engine off and then back on after first start it runs smooth without the 90 second bumpy idle. No error codes being thrown.
That is very normal for a cold start, it happens in every vehicle I've driven in at least, again regardless of outside temperature. Essentially you don't have anything to worry about
Hey guys, don't ask him about deleting smog stuff. It's illegal to take emissions off cars in most countries. He can get in trouble if he advises about deleting. EPA and CARB are watching! Great video, btw, gives me ideas about inspecting and correcting the system on my poor, sad 2001 Boxster
Actually, the funny part is that the majority of engine tuners out there plainly offer secondary air delete. If I make you a tune and send you an ECM and you put it on a street car that's on you. As far as I know it's a racecar. That said I see ZERO reason to delete secondary air on a vehicle with cats...and on the 2.7t you can gut the precats and relocate the 02 sensors and it still passes cat efficiency and makes MUCH more power without killing the Earth. I had a guy with a Cayenne Turbo S enquire about a delete tune a couple days ago and instead I walked him through fixing it. I don't see the point in killing the Earth because you're cheap or lazy. If you want to make extra HP then fine, but generally I try to keep emissions in place. Secondary air costs you NOTHING horsepower wise and has no real performance downside. EVAP not only has no downsidr, it gets you better fuel economy, so again I don't see the point in deleting it. I will admit with the 1.8t it's sort of necessary to run a catless downpipe for antilag and to spool the turbo more quickly. But for the v6 and v8 engines, gut the precats, move the downstream sensor to after the post cats, it'll gain 30 up and pass cat efficiency even without a tune or an O2 defouler, and run 13.9 second quarter miles with a tune. Pointless to delete. Now, if you have clogged cylinder heads I don't blame you for not wanting to spend thousands and thousands of dollars on something that really only improves the emissions for 30 or 40 seconds when you start the vehicle. I'm also really not that morally opposed to it because most of the states have a scam operation going on where if you fail emissions you go in and you pay a hundred or $150 for diagnosis and towards repair and they'll give you a waiver for 2 years so it's all just a money-making operation. The state will totally just let you go on polluting the atmosphere for the small fee of $150 every two years, and it doesn't even need to be a separate where new diagnosis every two years. At that point I just view it as a money-making operation for the state and I have No Reservations about the fact that people don't want to pay to fix a bogus design. Many of the secondary air designs utilize the combi valve right on the exhaust manifold and just dump the secondary air right into the exhaust which eliminates any possibility of clogged passages, and then they decided that they wanted to jump the air and right behind the exhaust valves on some of the V6 and V8 and made these tiny little ports that get clogged with carbon, I've tried drill bits that are on Springs that are supposed to clear these out, I've tried penetrating oil and compressed air or steam and nothing that I've been able to do has been able to clear them out, to remove and repair this deficiency on a 2.8, 2.7t or a 4.2 Audi would literally be 3k or more because removing the heads requires engine removal. The main issue was a lack of oxygen on cold start so if you just start the vehicle and start driving it the cats will warm up nearly immediately it's a difference of 20 seconds of pollution and that's a hypothetical I've never actually thrown a gas analyzer on to check and see the difference.
JDM A'F Nearly every tuning company offers a defeat that defaults readiness to set and disabled the test. If you leave the components in place and have no faults they're none the wiser...on an off road race car ;)
Very easy to understand the process thanks to your video. I have a 2004 Jetta 2.0 that has a P0420 code. When I jumper the secondary air pump relay, air flows through the kompi when it should be closed. Any thoughts?
Anyone know where the air pump is located on a 2010 VW CC 2.0T? It appears to be it may be in the driver's fender area as I see lines coming and going from that small area behind the headlight. If so, how do you access?
I got an a6 1999 with a cracked secondary air pipe thingy on the left side in your video. Could this be a reason for a missfire and loss of power? My car is a 2.4 v6 a6 c5 and runs rich i think as it backfires alot and fuel consumption goes up signifcantly. The missfire happens always most when going from cold to warm engine then kind of lets go after 10 km or so but leaves me with crazy backfiring and decrease in power very annoying i must say also the idle gets rough and bumpy when warm as well as stalls if i dont give it a little gas on start. But it starts great on cold. guidance/help much appreciated
It burns excess fuel during a cold start. It shouldn't have anything to do with anything miss firing. Check injectors spark plugs computer and possibly wiring.
Awesome video. I have the Sai system on my e46 with the check valve that is actuated by pressure from the Sai pump, not a vacuum line. I tried to blow into the check valve tonight and I cannot get air through it. Should just the force of me blowing be enough to push air through the valve into the cylinder head?
With your mouth or with an airline from an air compressor? you can honestly tell if the valve is clogged or not because the pump will kick on on a cold start and you'll sound like it's under much higher of a load will be a higher pitch noise and sound like the pump is struggling.
@@GermanAutoInstitute thanks for the reply.. problem ended up being valve was in fact stuck. Freed it up with some pb blaster and has been working great.
I have a question for you on my 2004 Audi A6 2.7t S-Line , I delete the catalytic converter and i want to know if I need any more this air secondary pump or I can just delete it ?? I saw some people the put plate on cylinder and delete this pump do you thing if I delete it is going to do any different on Gas Mileage since I don’t have catalytic converter anymore ?
if you deleted the catalytic converter then you do not need secondary air, secondary air just heat the cat up faster so it is pointless after you remove the cat.
Hi, please can you help me solve this problem. i scan my 2.5 vw jetta mk5 with vcds scan tool. i had this error code: 005170 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112) P1432 - 004 - Open Circuit. what could be the problem and how to solve it. thanks
Terminal 87 and Terminal 30 could be stuck closed on the Relay feeding the Secondary Air Injection Pump. You might want to get that fixed- so you don't burn up your Pump.
mikeyd19841 So then what happens normally is that hose sucks dirty, unfiltered air, and over time that carbons up the ports in the kombi valve or the cylinder head if the engine has that design. So now depending on the engine, you could even have to pull the head to clean the passages. Crappy.
I hope you can help me please, my cable connected to the air pump is not getting any voltage I have replaced the 100 relay but still the air pump is not working. I hope you can suggest some thing, My car is audi a3 2006 1.6 bse engine.
So if you pull the relay out you'll notice the relay has terminals number 30, 87, 85, and 86. Where the pin 30 goes into the relay board should have battery power all the time, 85 and 86 one of them should have ground, and one of them should have power when the secondary air pump is supposed to be on, when that happens pin 30 and pin 87 are connected and it sends voltage to the secondary air injection pump. so if you have battery voltage to terminal 30, and you have power and ground to 85 + 86, then check and see that pin 30 and Pen 87 have continuity when the relay is energized and then own check out the wire to the secondary air pump from where pin 87 goes.
I subbed, but should I take the combi valve off and run the engine first? What order should I start troubleshooting? It does it all the time while sitting in traffic, clicking turning on and off over and over again sounding like a vacuum cleaner, and on a 95° day, sometimes very rarely it will stay off but that's usually when it's very cold out, around 20° or below. Also I don't know if this is a symptom that could help diagnose but when the pump turns on and off, it sounds like a vacuum cleaner then when it shuts off the idle gets to 800 rpm and there's an ultra low vibration in the car that you can feel rattling your brain and popping your ears but can't actually hear the sound. I'm getting so frustrated that I just want to junk it, not really. It has a built head, cams, valves, springs, port polish, head bolts, stock block, forged rods. I just want a golf 4 door with a ABA block, I'm so done with it right now. Entire suspension, hubs, knuckles, BORA conversion, tuned ECU/ECM, cross drilled slotted rotors with ceramic pads, coilovers, all new pcv hoses, air pump hoses, coolant hoses and water spout from head and y hoses and hoses to coolant tank. omg it's insane, one thing after another, over and over again. Anyone want to trade a 02 337 for a MK4 Golf 2.0L ABA. It needs a few things like valence and interior trim but when it runs right it's like a beast, it has taken every car that's ever tried to test me. Could it be the wastegate actuator or wastegate flapper is stuck or not closing? When I drive really hard it moves but when I come to a stop there's no power or boost, and I turn it off and on and it's fine again. what's the deal? I know it's something stupid because the engine was fully rebuilt less than 1000mi, probably half that. Oh yeah, it has I tiny pinhole exhaust leak at the muffler delete, that's probably the ultra low frequency sound.
a lot of what you're saying probably needs a scan tool to diagnose. The pump shouldn't run when the car is warm. And the reason it doesn't do it when it's hot out is it doesn't run over a certain intake air temperature. So the most common issue if the pump is running is the pump is split in half, it is riveted from the factory, look and see if the rivets are allowing the pump to pull apart. You would then need to drill the rivets out and use small bolts from the hardware store to screw it back together.
my car is running bad,its like dead when I push on accelerator pad,I changed air flow sensor,secondary air pump solenoid,spark plugs and their wires but the car still same?2002 jetta,,2.0engine
Zinah Shakir Stop throwing parts at it, and get a scan tool from Ross-tech.com then we an scan and diagnose it. Lets start with what brand parts did you use? If you didn't use factory parts, then chances are you juyst made the situation worse. Especially with the mass airflow sensor the ones from the parts stores that aren't Bosch are bad right out of the box.
I do not have a check engine light or anything but in California, I have to do emissions test for smog and I can't get the secondary air injections to be ready for my emissions test. Same with the o2 heater. Any ideas???
+DubAutowerks I checked the air injection system and I noticed that the switch that allows vacuum to the smog air pump curl works, but the vacuum does not work. I tested the switch and it works, but it doesn't vacuum when I hook it up
hey thanks for the video i have question regarding my 01 bmw 330 xi every time i go for inspection i get a rejected sticker because two tests will not run secondary air and evap when i dissconect the vacum line from the solenoid to the kombi valve there is no vacum do you think thats why it will not run the secondary air test? and what are your thoughts on evap and why my car will not run the test? thank you
There shouldn't be vacuum to the kombi valve unless the secondary air pump is running. If there's not at that time then there's something up there. Not sure with evap, it should run, and if there's not a fault and you haven't cleared faults recently it should run. You'd need a factory equivalent scan tool to go much further.
