Thanks for quick response. Yes, both combis work. Glove inflates(like in your video) on both exhausts. (When I jump the pump relay and apply vacuum to each combi.) Passageway into the block, from combi valves, was scoped on both sides, little to no carbon seen. Seafoam applied to dissolve any if present. Fluid seen in the O2 sensor hole, so passages are apparently open.
I wired the pump straight to 12v last night and it ran....took an ohm reading off the three battery top fuses and they are All good....the numbers on my relay are 1,2,3,5. 1 and 2 being the small pins and 3 and 5 being the big pins.
Which Tool is this at 3:10 to remove the Valve without unplugging the whole mount? I cant really acces it with my 5mm allen, which tools did you use? idk the name
+Direct #bye I used a combination of tools... broken / short 5mm allen (short shaft inserted into a 5mm 1/4" drive socket attached to a 1/4" drive ratchet), socket, long 5mm ball tiped allen & a 3/8" drive ratchet. Whatever works basically. Removing it from the head is the easiest, but I believe coolant pipes need to me move to do so.
***** kept getting a p0411 code i checked every vacuum line i could find non was bad then i watched this and saw how you had tested to make sure the air was going threw the exhaust so tried that non going threw bought a new combi installed now when my pump kicks on its not loud like was before cause air is properly going threw. cleared my CEL with vag come ran the car and ran vag come on the ride no issues now and no more CEL..... THANKS AGAIN!
Just looked it up to confirm. "The EGR valve, or combi valve, is a part of the secondary air injection system that helps keep exhaust emission levels low."
at 1:48 what happen? whats that sound?? i'm asking because my car is making that noise and after a couple of miles the check engine light start and then p0411 secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected
Awesome trick on removing that 5mm bolt via ball allen wrench combo! Took a few tries to cut that wrench to perfect size, but it worked. Thanks for posting.
Excuse my English is bad eh. I was following your video and I check the secondary air pump with little red write and air pump doesn't throw air like that it only hear like click that it's. So the problem would be secondary air pump ?
mk4 Yes, your pump could be stuck / bad... remove the pump and test out of the vehicle like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gq59cRA6IGI.htmlm57s
Could this code be caused by the brake booster line that goes too the intake 2.0 avh. I just replaced it and the code cleared itself. Im guessing it is. Ended up snapping the heater hose adapter. Lol. Something always breaks
If the diverter valve was not getting enough vacuum, then yes. If the diverter valve is not vacuum operated, then no. Would have had to have been a big leak in the line... would have also run rough, yes?
@@EXOVCDS it started splitting the hose closer too the brake booster and finally popped off. This also was probaly why my brakes got soft after bleeding them the one day. The hose probaly started too tear
I'm 8 years late to this but I'm buying a car with engine light coming on... the code is 16795 incorrect air flow.... there is no noise when starting the car and there is no issues in performance ...the car drives fine... will it be safe to carry on driving??? Thank you
Thank you for watching... it's usually a bad combi valve. Make sure to have "annotations set to on" when viewing this video on a desktop pc, so that you can read the annotations / notes that I placed in the video (one of my early videos... I now embedd text at every key point in my videos).
The car jerks when driving constant speed at highway. No problem when accelerating. Gives the fault code P0411 but can it cause this? Or is it possible that MAF sensor is faulty but does not give the fault code? I just unplugged the sensor and car still turned on like no effect at all. Didn't drive it, though.
Year, make, model, engine? Probably not P0411 related, but you need to check to make sure that the diverter valve is not letting air into the exhaust, which will affect the O2 sensors.
@@EXOVCDS Sorry, the car is same A4 1.8T. Year 2000 (B5). I am begin to believe the problem may be in the ignition coils or possibly in the ignition amplifier. Spark plugs and the wires are changed lately.
Watch my new videos... I do a better job of letting people know what is going on. I know vw parts calls it an egr valve, but that is totally false. EGR = exhaust gas recirculation The Combi valve allows fresh air to enter the exhaust. An EGR valve allows exhaust to enter the intake manifold.
I have a 2001 golf gls and it has a rough idle . The car shakes and moves back n forth. The exhaust coming out the pipes is in a puff patter. I replaced the wires and plugs , maf sensor , and coil still has same idle. I don't know what's causing this. Any ideas? Possibly egr system clogged. It doesn't throw any cel light or codes. Are the hoses to the air box and secondary pump supposed to be sealed with silicone ? Could it be these hoses causing a vacuum leak ? I replaced all hoses to the diverter valve also still nothing
It might still be a misfire that is causing the rough running. Did you mix up the spark plug wires on the coil? Does the coil have 2 x 2 posts or are all posts in one row?
@@EXOVCDS it's a 2x2 coil. My brother used the VIN to get the part for this vehicle from vw for all the parts I put on it. So far have $500 in parts in it. The wires are not mixed up everything is labeled and installed correctly. Was thinking maybe the fuel injectors may be a culprit . Might just have to take it to a local mechanic and see if his machine will read further into it. It also will barely hit 70 mph has a little rattle when reving engine but I think it's that metal plate in the valve cover . And seems like maybe one of the motor mounts by tranny is a little loose . But I don't know enough about these cars and how the mounts are supposed to be. It's not like my 93 sierra motor mounts that's for sure lol. How should I go about checking all the injectors. It seemed like before I replaced the plugs n wires the 3 n 4 cylinders were flooding with fuel. But that was because I messed up the mad sensor. Might still be flooding the cylinders tho.
@@jeremyvasquez9508 If there is a mechanical noise from the top of the engine, it could be a bad hydraulic lifter that is causing engine / valve breathing / air flow issues. With the engine at idle, pull one of the plug wires off of the ignition coil... rpm should drop. Put it back on the coil and pull a different plug wire off. Do that to plug wires. When the engine rpm does not drop, that cylinder is not producing power. Shut the engine off and check the spark plug of that cylinder for signs of over or under fueling.
hey to solve this problem you replaced the air pump correct?? im getting confused if air injection pump and air pump are two different things or the samething? i have the same code im trying to fix ASAP, would appreciate a response .
Diego Castillo The combi valve (diverter valve) was the problem. P0411 can be set due to a number of different component failures... you need to check them one by one and replace the faulty part. Vacuum lines, air pump, air pump fuse, vacuum solenoid valve, combi / diverter valve, plugged air passages (through the head/exhaust) etc.
Is cleaning the combi valve thoroughly to where it no longer sticks good enough, or are there parts inside that simply wear out? I'm getting this code, yet I've checked everything from all the fittings, hoses and components, to running tests with VAGCOM and I have a new converter. Everything is physically OK, yet the code keeps returning. Although VAGCOM says my 02's are OK, my next option is to either replace the aft one or have a tuner widen the frequency band for both.
With the engine at idle... apply vacuum to the combi valve (if it is vacuum operated). Disconnect the connector from the SAI air pump and power it up manually. Watch "short term fuel trim with VAG-COM (001)... should show 20% or more if air flow into exhaust is good. Like in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4GPFeCeugNk.html If not, then something is wrong (make sure that the air pump is running the correct way (will run backwards if the +/- are reversed). If fuel trim is OK, have a tuner shop delete SAI or adjust the sensitivity of the "test requirements".
Darn it. Thanks for the quick reply. Its so hard to find a trustworthy mechanic in toronto. No one knows what they're doing. Just wanna take your $. I have no experience working on vws. Watching you made me hope and prey you were in Toronto so I could come check you.
Sign up on my free forum and post questions when you have them. It'll be easier to converse there and you can link images of what you are dealing with... and I can post service info for you to download. exovcds.freeforums.org
What if I have no vacuum at the kombi valve? I have done the air test like you have demonstrated and get air through the exhaust only if I apply vacuum on the kombi valve with my handheld vacuum pump.
check the vacuum control solenoid for correct operation (does the ecm turn it on / off?). If you do not have a scan tool that can turn the solenoid on / off... follow the vacuum hose from the combination valve to the solenoid. Remove the solenoid and test it for correct operation. When NOT energized, you should be able to blow air into the nipple that goes to the combination valve WHILE you have a finger on the other nipple (vacuum source). When the solenoid IS energized (battery voltage), you should NOT be able to blow into the nipple that goes to the combination valve WHILE you have a finger on the other nipple. The valve should click every time you connect it to battery + & -
When I jumper 3 and 5 the pump doesn't come on. When I have the car off I have month voltage at 1 and 2 but when I start the car I have 14v at 1(small pin closest to the firewall) and 3.5v at pin 2(small pin furthest from the firewall). With the pump power disconnected I put a jumper across to bring the pump on and tested for voltage at the plug for the pump and no power.
in my relay the numbers are 1, 2, 3, 5.....when i jumper between 3 and 5, (two big pins) the pump doesn't come on. When i start the car with the relay out and put my comon lead from my meter to neutral and my red lead on my voltmeter to where the #1 pin would go i get around 14v.....when i go to where the #2 pin would go i get 3.5v...
hi please help me i have a jetta 4 1.8T R line ,sometimes when you try press the gas flat out it doesnt react same time its like drops the power for a few secs then reacts after wat can be the cause
emanuel mashao Throttle module, air leak, MAF sensor, MAP sensor, transmission... or it could be something else. Check for stored fault codes, if no fault codes are stored, you need to look at ECM data stream to look for something that "does not seem right" WHILE the power problem is present.
I have 2006 Jetta 2.5. I parked the car for 2 months due to traveling with battery terminals are taking off. When i came back i plugged back the battery terminals and started the car. I heard a very high sound like a fan. I drove the car and the sound is the same. after 2 days the sound gone but with check engine light is on (P0411 code). Please Advise.
Hi Thomas, I diagnosed my combi valve as being stuck closed. When applying vacuum with hand vac pump, it holds vac but doesn't allow air to flow throw - nothing at the exhaust after bridging the pump relay. I just picked up a new pump from VW and looking at it, when testing it - I don't see the piston move at all? I haven't fitted it to the car yet but the piston should visibly move right? Both the old one and the new one old about 27hgIn of vacuum.
***** Thanks for the quick reply, turns out the new combi valve is ok, there was an issue with my hand vac. pump. ALSO turns out my current combi valve opens and closes, which means I probably didn't need to drop £120 on the new one. I'm running out of options with the car though (2003 1.8T AUQ). The piping from the outlet of the sol. valve to the combi valve holds pressure and the sol valve holds pressure when closed. I tried connecting bypassing the sol valve completely (so the valve is open when the engine is running) and although the combi valve opens and holds I still get a VCDS basic settings reading of about 55%. Is it possible that one of the other vac pipes under the mounting bracket (that the sol. valves sit under) is split?
Slots 30 & 87 (the 2 big slots)... look at the bottom of the relay, there are numbers next to the pins. The vacuum solenoid is in front of the intake manifold, mounted under the metal bridge by the dipstick tube.
when watching this video it appears you removed relay #418 and jumpered the two big pins.....in your other video with the quick sai pump check, you took the #100 relay out and jumpered them. Thats the relay i have been talking about with the # 1, 2, 3, 5 pins.
love your videos thanks. I have a 00 beetle 1.8t and when I'm driving as I get on the gas I hear a honking sound almost like a goose coming from under the dash or that area. What could this be? Thanks so much
I uploaded a small video on my profile of my Secondary Air pump. Could you check it out and tell me if you think my pump could be causing my P0411 code? Thanks
How do you remove and test a combi valve on a 2000 VW beetle 2.0 p0411 I'm getting and can't seem to pin point it or find a video on removal or better testing.
To check if the combi valve passes air, you can imply apply vacuum to the valve and listen for exhaust pulses while the engine is at idle. If the valve does not hold vacuum, the valve is bad. If it holds vacuum but you don't hear exhaust pulses... the valve is stuck or the air passages in the exhaust are plugged. If you have a scan tool, you can monitor fuel trim, apply vacuum to the combi valve and then manually activate the air pump. Fuel trim should go to 20% as in this sample video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4GPFeCeugNk.html The combi valve in that video is not vacuum operated. If your valve checks out ok when testing the above... focus on the vacuum control side of things then. Vacuum hoses & vacuum solenoid function.
Have the same issue. Took it to couple mechanics first didn't find anything nor cared to look, said I had to many aftermarket parts. Intake. Second said it was the combi valve. Had that replaced. Took it in to the dealer their telling me it's the secondary air pump I've visually inspected it and even used to blow up a mattress. I'm skeptical on dropping $800 plus labor. That's what they quoted me. Any help, insight?
Year, make, model, engine? I assume it's the same as in this video... but knowing would be better. It's a simple system to check, if you have the correct tools / equipment.
Disconnect the plastic tube at the combi valve. Start engine and let idle. No exhaust noise should come from the combi valve. If ok, remove vacuum hose from the combi valve and apply vacuum to the combi valve via a vacuum pump. Exhaust noise should be heard... if no, combi valve is bad. Here's a video of a stuck open valve. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7ji3xa0E3yQ.html
Using a scan tool to monitor fuel trim values... one can see how air from the Seconday Air Injection System makes the ECM correct fuel mixture. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4GPFeCeugNk.html
Could be. All you have to do is disconnect the plug from the air pump... put a test light across the plug and have someone start the engine (cold engine). If the light lights up, then the pump is bad. If the light does not light up, then the pump is not the problem. You can apply power & ground to the pump directly... to test / check it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gq59cRA6IGI.html
Thomas EXOVCDS thank you, I checked and my 40 fuse next to the ecu was burned out. I replaced it, gonna check if that fixed it in the morning. If not I’ll try what you said. Thank you
@@Janet_Airlines802 If the combi valve does not close fully, exhaust can leak past it and the warm air condenses inside the air pump when the engine is off. Once the pump is full with water, it could short the fuse... but the fuse could blow due to other reasons as well (pump stuck due to old age, broken / bad wiring etc).
@@Janet_Airlines802 disconnect the plastic air tube & the little vacuum hose at the combi valve... start the engine. If you don't hear any exhaust coming from the combi valve, then the valve is closing correctly and still ok.
The SAI system of the vr6 is checked in the same way. Usual causes of p0411: broken vacuum hose, bad vacuum solenoid, stuck combi valve, bad air pump relay, blown fuse, bad air pump etc. Eliminate one after the other and you will find the fault.
Could be a fuse for the relay or the relay? We don't have Seat Leon in Canada... I might be able to find a wiring diagram tonight after work. What engine? Do you know the production code of the engine?
My Passat passes the inflated glove test, vacuum hoses are new, combi valves replaced. Good flow from Sec Air pump. Vacuum solenoids work, tubes hold vacuum. New O2 sensor on bank 1. Yet P1423 cose persists. Any ideas? thx
I have the famous p0411 code on my jetta gli 1.8t......it came on after 30 minutes of highway driving....any ideas? I tried a jumper to turn the sai pump on but nothing came on....
it's just a bit of rubber grease to lubricate the o-rings... slides together easier. Sorry about not having mentioned it... I try to embed text about everything that is being done on all my new videos (and I even talk more too now).
Good work bro I tested by jumping the relay on my 2000 vr6 pump works but the air flow is very weak I disconnected the pipe that runs along the coil pack to the air box but flow is very low , where is the combi valve on vr6 2000 model I also think it could be a pinched or cracked vacuum hose under the intake manifold what's the best way to troubleshoot the combi valve and vac solenoid on this car thanks bro .... Great work oh I just replaced my TCM today no more hard shifting yeeeehaaa.
hi, great video... I just tried this in my audi tt 225 and I found that there is no vacuum pressure to operate the combi valve... is there any way to test solenoid valve 037906283B or to check a fuse or any electrical current since that solenoid has an electrical plug? tia
Apply battery power to the solenoid valve, You should hear it click, and the two vacuum ports should pass air.. when no power is present, the vacuum passage between the two ports is blocked, but the port that goes to the combi valve should vent through the little vent in the solenoid. How did you check for vacuum / the solenoid? Output tests?
Exhaust leak is where? Anything after the converter does not affect the SAI system. Are you sure the combination valve is bad? Year, make, model, engine, what's the fault code, how have you tested the system?
When you put an aftermarket intake in your car and remove the box, where do the plastic hoses go? My air pump is starting to go in and off randomly and sounds like a get engine, not as loud obviously butv maybe a string vacuum cleaner. I bought a new one and I still don't know what to do with the two corrugated plastic hoses? I really just want to do a delete of the sai, EVAP, pcv, a.c., power steering and rack and pinion with a non power steering. Less parts to break
***** Sounds like you are better off getting a go-kart! Just joking... the plastic tube going to the combi valve HAS to go to the combi valve. The plastic tube that used to attach to the air intake box can be left off, but you need to put some kind of filter on the air inlet at the pump. Something like this: static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/aid-775_w.jpg EVAP & PVC serve a purpose... A/C you just need to disconnect the compressor or remove it and install a smaller belt. P/S... not sure if they make a manual rack, if yes, you'll be turning the steering wheel so many times every time you want to park the car (due to gearing)... it's not gonna be fun after a while.
***** thank you, I think I asked before but for some reason there were two plastic corrugated tubes that were not connected. It must've fallen off unless the previous owner did a delete somewhere. I need a diagram and to go through it. I really don't understand how vacuum lines work and SAI works with the engine. I haven't really looked into it. It was running fine so I didn't have a problem
***** it feels exactly like my Merkur XR4Ti felt when I got a new cat back but left the old resonator which was so filled with black carbon stuff the engine would not even start, 10 mins later it was back on the lift with a new resonator and was producing boost. That's what my car feels like, there's no boost, if you shut it off then turn it on it feels more powerful but nothing like when I first got it. Then after getting the tachs up like having to get on the highway and then coming to a stop and when you start to move again it is so slow and has no power. It's not a fuel problem, but if I shut it off for one second then turn it right back on it feels better. But you can't hear the turbo spool like before. The exhaust eventually did develop a leak and feels like the full exhaust isn't making it all the way through to the tip. And now the secondary air pump will go on while I'm sitting at a red light and sound like a loud vacuum cleaner whirling sound. It's a 2002 Volkswagen Golf gti 1.8t 337. It has a AWP stamp on the head and the six speed transmission was replaced with a 5 speed by the previous owner. And the engine was fully rebuilt less than 5000mi ago. It doesn't feel like it's blown because it has compression but when you stop then start going again it feels so slow. The p0411 code was on and I kept pulling the fuse and eventually it went off after 7 7mi cycles or 49 mi. It would cone on on the 48th but now doesn't at all. I don't know if I should just put a new engine or if it's something simple like a clogged resonator. I have a downpipe to a straight pipe to the resonator then a pipe that bends up over the shock/strut mounts (I have adjustable coilovers) and to a tip. It has a muffler, and cat delete with a little exhaust leak and the engine revs go really far down when the sai goes on you can feel the pressure pulsating in your ears in the car. I don't know where to begin and can find a good mechanic that works on VW Audi 1.8t engines, most won't touch the engine because it is turbocharged. It's their rule in all the Arab immigrant shops and that's all that's around here. I'm not being racist
***** If it's a power issue that you are worried about... leave the SAI for now. To eliminate the exhaust as an issue (restriction), you can remove the front O2 and drive it like that. Will be a bit noisy, but if it runs better, then I would continue to chase a restriction in the exhaust. The turbo wastegate is controlled by the N75 solenoid... if the solenoid sticks in the open position, then it will feed boost to the wastegate pod and cause the wastegate to open early. The diverter valve can stick open and that will cause boost to leak back into the turbo intake, which results in lower boost in the manifold. If you have a scan tool, compare actual boost values with specified boost values. If there is a difference between the two... which is it? Actual lower or higher than specified. I'll send you some links to service info tomorrow (getting late now) that you can read through and that might help with your diagnosis.
Hey I'm getting this same code but I have a forge splitter could that be the cause? I also know that my pcv valve coming from under the manifold is slighlty broken but a hose is still over it....Any help would be great I have access to a lift/VCDS.
Great videos! Thanks for sharing. I still have no idea how you get to the 5mm bolt on the back side of the Combi valve to remove it. There is NO room whatsoever to access that. Your magic.
It can be done and I too had a hard time the first time. It's meant to be done differently (remove the flange it mounts against), but I don't want to open coolant lines, which I think would also need to be touched.
Hi sorry to bother u but i really need someones help n couldnt think no1 else but u rigth now...so my mk4 jetta stop working about two days ago the gas pedal dont work i chage tb and gas pedal but still nothing any ideas on what can it be??..epc light is on it wasnt on wen the car broke down but when i chage all of that it came on..(i chage the exhaust system a cuple days back and idk if the 02 sesnors are bad and maybe thats what cause the problem plz help im short on money and dont wanna take to vw and have them do something that i can do thx and sorry to bother you)
team4ck O2 sensors are not going to cause a no start unless wiring shorted the ECM. Exhaust should also not be the problem unless it is plugged up (engine can't breathe). Key on engine off... when you push the gas pedal, does the throttle open all the way (need a second person). Scan the ECM for fault codes (will help if a code is stored). Do you have spark? Do you have fuel at the fuel rail? If this all happened after you changed the TB, then install the old TB and see if things go back to how they were.
i have the same code on my 01 jetta 1.8t, ive watched your video and follow the same steps, after doing the vacuum and bridge the relay, vacuum holds and there was air flow thru the exhaust pipe, when vacuum was release no air flow thru exhaust, i think the combi valve still works, hoses checked out good pump is working, should i still replace combi valve or is there other things i need to check??? befor this code i had the knock sensor code p0327, i figured out ill just replace the sensor, after doing so, went for test drive basically the hold day, no codes till the end of the day is when the p0411 code came about, dont know if this info helps at all
Although I have a couple SAI videos, they don't address all the possibilities of system failures... not all codes are caused by the same fault. Sounds like the combi valve is ok (opening & closing). Does the vacuum solenoid work? There could still be a restriction in the SAI air passages after the combi valve (through the head). I would need to check the short term fuel trim values while air is being blown through the combi valve... on an A6 with a 2.8L engine I recently worked on, fuel trim correction was 40% while the SAI was active. Not sure what the 1.8T specs are... will check if I can find some info and will post back if I do.
***** thnks for replying, i took off the combi valve to inspected more, to blow on it when vacuumed, and since i have new one just laying around for months did the same to see if theres any difference between the both and i did notice the old felt more air restriction when blowing thru it than the new one, not sure if that might of set the code, but since having the new one in hand i just replaced it, went for a test drive about 25 miles(freeway/streets) probably needs to run more but no engine light tho, ima drive it more tomorrow and see if anything goes, if same code comes out ill check the vacuum solenoid. thnks for the vid & tip/advice, ill let u kno if anything happens
A description of what the actual he your doing would be nice. Are you checking the combi valve or something. My pump works. I got a new purge valve, gas cap. Checked the charcoal canister, checked leaks and I still get this stupid p0411 code. Makes me wanna pull my hair out.
Yes, sorry... my old videos were not the greatest. Not sure why people only watch those. Not sure why you are checking EVAP components when the code is for Secondary Air Injection. Year, make, model, engine? So that I can better guess as to what the problem might be. Until I get more info... you can watch this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lbLZaf6QPQE.html
Great video as usual and very much appreciated. I'm dealing with this same issue right now & was wondering about the jumper wire you used. Is that regular 10 gauge wire with male disconnect ends on either side? Also, is it necessary to have a fused jumper wire? I seem to recall the Bentley manual mentions something about it for testing the fuel pump/relay...
A fused jumper wire is always good... but the circuit in question already has a fuse in place. The thicker the wire, the better. A skinny wire can get hot and be difficult to hold for a long time (depending on how long you need to run the pump). A better way to check the system is to activate the pump "at the pump" (not removing the relay), opening the combi valve and then viewing short term fuel trim... like in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4GPFeCeugNk.html If your combi valve has a small vacuum hose on the side, you need to apply vacuum with a vacuum pump to open the valve before you activate the air pump.
Thomas EXOVCDS my vehicle is an '05 GTI with the 1.8T AWP engine. I'm at work now and only had time for a quick look under the hood but I did not see a vacuum hose coming off of it. I was wondering about the connectors and wires because although I have wire down to 6 gauge I couldn't find any male connectors in any size larger than 10 gauge at all the local hardware stores. 10 gauge connector ends are the same size as the small contacts on the relay but not the larger ones, so I wasn't sure if it would work or not because I thought in the video you bridged the larger terminals. thanks for the tip on other ways to check it but I don't have Vagcom yet.
As long as you make contact with the "contacts" that are in the relay socket, the connects don't have to be big. You can use just a bare paper clip to do the same, but the clip will get warm (because of its small diameter. Small flat crimp connectors will work fine as long as they make contact with the contacts in the relay slots. Once you remove the relay, the ECM might set a fault code for the SAI relay (control circuit open)... that's why in my "new" videos, I leave the relay alone and energize the pump AT the pump.
the relay is the one you where jumpin with the red cable and can you please tell me the part number and where is located thank you so much for replying and your help
+victor escobar I don't know what car you have, what year, what engine? I don't know if it actually is the air pump that is running... could it be the electric water pump you are hearing (if your engine has one)? Record a video of what you are hearing / or the part that is making the noise (record the engine bay) and post the video link here, so that I can see / hear what is going on.
hi thanks for the vid, what parts did u have to replace, and what do u estimate the cost of the parts and how much time did it take for u to this, I just want a comparison before I take my 2003 jetta in for service, to make sure they are doing it fairly and correctly, my car has NOT been staring when it rains, and the mechanic said the diagnostic codes were P0411 and p0343, thanks so much for any info u can give me!
Labor rates vary between shops, different parts fail, other things might need attention... so it doesn't make sense throwing a number at you, when each case is different. This one needed a combi valve and the diverter valve. P0411 and p0343 should not cause an engine not to start. Cranks ok but does not catch? Or starts and dies?
ok I'm doing a video tomorrow with the day light thank you bay the way when i was driving back home my battery light just came on im wondering if is the battery or the alternator
So I'm getting this code coming up and also bad o2 sensor. As I've been watching your videos, reading comments, and doing other research, it seems that neither of these problems will cause my car to have problems starting or stall while idling. Car starts fine when engine is cold but after driving, when I go to start it again (engine hot from driving it 30 minutes to couple hours before) sometimes it will start and sometimes I have to let it sit 10-15 minutes and try again. Also, the last time I was driving it stalled while idling at a red light. Kept turning the car over til it finally started but then when I do that the EPC light comes on. Those were the only two codes that came up, should I start by fixing those? Or should I be searching for another problem since those are not symptoms of those two problems?
Keith Spieker Stalling while driving (EPC light on) or hard to start when hot... can be due to a faulty crankshaft position sensor. When it does not start, check for spark. If you have no spark, then it could be a bad crank sensor / engine speed sensor. SAI will NOT cause stalling or a no-start.... O2 should also not cause either.
ok is a 04 vw jetta 1.8t and i was looking for some other answers but i cross to ur chanel i was wondering if the noise was coming from the part you jus take on this video
hey thomas i have same problem that keith spieker has i change bump u think issue will be gone sir? bc when is hot somethig i got EPC nd sometime battery light thank u
You changed the Air pump? Secondary Air Injection should not cause an EPC light to come on? If the engine is stalling, could be crank sensor... battery light because the engine stalled?
***** thank u sir for quick answer .but i have code p0411 mechanic said is air bump , my car is turn off if its hot specific if im driving is slow 25 mp after came hot already sometime battery light or EPC come on it. im confuse about it i thought was alternator but we test is good ,i just change bump i didn't test yet if was problem or some else .
***** ok sir so whta cause EPC come on, yes light bettery come on when my car turn off it stay on table after i turn engine on be light bettery gone hen but i need to wait like 10 munite then i can start engine again
Hi Thomas I always wacth you videos u are the best I have one question I want to drive my car from minnesota to California I have golf mk4 1.8t what are you suggestions to do in the car ???
Leonardo Villa Just make sure that all the fluids are OK (full, no leaks). Tires & brakes OK (brake fluid not old / dirty / moisture content). No loose suspension components. No exhaust leaks... your belts. Depending on how long you have had the car, you should have some kind of idea what shape it is in and how it has been behaving for you for that time. If you have had many little issues over the years, you might run into things during your road trip. If the car has been going well with just oil changes & tune up , you probably won't have any unexpected issues that pop up. Always expect something to happen... set some money aside for breakdowns. Even new cars will have unexpected failures... so the chances of something happening with an older car is more likely. Don't worry too much about it, but monitor the instrument cluster for warning lights during the long boring highway hours.
bingo I think this is the problem to my 2001 VW GOLF GLS. Bad Combi Valve and could that be why there is strange noise coming from the air pump? I thought it could be a different problem from one of your other P0411 video but my car is a different model and year.
Sambath Touch If the combi valve stays closed while the sec air pump is blowing air, that puts pressure on the pump and will cause it to sound stressed. 2 liter?
The car is a 2 liter engine. I believe the pump is still working and the combi valve is what cause the pump to make noise. I'm gonna take it apart and find out. I think I'm off to a right start, thanks again Thomas.
***** Any directions on how to remove the Combi Valve? I can't figure out how to remove it even with the repair manual. Do I first remove the Flare nut attached to the pipe then remove the bracket. Can't get the 5mm allen under the Combi Valve because of no clearance.
Sambath Touch It's a tight fit and I too have to fight with it (that's why it was not in the video)... but at 3:21 I show what I use to get at the 5mm bolts. You have to feel for them. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-08flKdnIBQk.htmlm21s Otherwise, to remove the flange WITH combi, you need to open up the cooling system.
I'm not turning the fuse on... I'm bridging the power terminal to the load (air pump) terminal with a simple jumper wire. It only works if the power terminal has power and the air pump is good. You need to check the power terminal with a test light. If the power terminal has power, but nothing happens when you bridge the connection, then you have to check the pump & the ground for the pump.
I'm getting an insuffecient flow code (P0491 and P0492) I think. It's a 4.2 BHF motor. The relay works, the fuse is good, the pump runs and the N112 is new. Vacuum lines are good, combis hold vacuum and when I put a vacuum on them I can blow through the supply hose, without the vacuum I'm not able to. No apparent leaks in the supply hose either. As soon as I get a chance I'm going to check the exhaust for flow and a change in pump tone with vacuum on and off. I'm guessing the adapters to the cylinder heads may be restricted to the point where I can blow through them but the flow is not enough to satisfy the system. Any thoughts? Thank you for the video by the way. Sometimes these things can be hard to understand when they act up.
Hi & Happy New Year! I don't have any first hand info on common SAI issues with this engine, sorry. You are correct about a possible restriction somewhere. Since both banks are affected, look for something that is common to both... although it could be a restriction in both banks (non common area). If you need diagrams or other info, I can look it up after I get off of work tonight and send it to you. Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment!
Cass48 Hi, will send you a link via youtube PM. PDF of some exhaust & SAI info. Stuff you probably already know... will probably be some obstruction /restriction somewhere.
I need help. I have a 2001 vw jetta 1.8t with a check engine light on and the car die every time i make a turn or make a hard stop, any body please help me.
+fbnc11 Is the pump running in the morning / when the engine is cold? Is the plastic tube connected at the combi / diverter valve (back of the cylinder head right side)?
Hi, I have a 2001 Volkswagen Jetta Wolfsburg 1.8t Turbo, Around two weeks ago the car started to burn the Antifreeze so fast, so I though that was the water pump and I bought the Water Pump and the Timing Belt Kit because it never have been changed. Then I went to the Auto Repair to replace it. But, instead of fix the problem they make it worse because now I got the check engine light and the car still burn the antifreeze. So I decide to go to Auto Zone to check what code I got for that light, and they gave me the following codes: P0411 (Secundary Air Injection Incorrect Flow), P0340 (Camshaft Position Sensor (cmp) "Intake" Circuit). So, my question is what could the main problem that causing the burn of the antifreeze?. In advance, I appreciate your help! Note; I dont got leaking and No white smoke.
Kelvin Hernandez If the P0340 was not there before they changed the water pump, then it shouldn't be there after... the sensor could have failed, but I doubt it. wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16724/P0340 The P0411 shouldn't be (but could be) related to what they did.... SAI is in a different location to where the water pump & timing belt are.
This one? c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/96566_x600.jpg Just remove the clamps, remove bolts that secure the pipe to the block and remove the hose. When they get old, they get really hard, so you might have to break the hose off.
Thank you for the video, I got this error yesterday on my 02, Audi TT, Can you please let me know how I can figure it out it is the valve or the pump or even just the hoses? Also I wonder what happens if I keep driving with this issue?
I will try to make a new video about the SAI system as soon as possible... it will be easier for me to explain with a video than with a keyboard. It is safe to drive if you leave it.
I have a 2004 VW Beetle, that had a very leaky water pump, that I just replaced. I replaced the water pump & tensioner pulley (I purchased a timing belt, but the one on it looked brand new). After replacing these things on Saturday and driving the vehicle for the first time on Monday, I heard a very loud noise, sounding similar to a fan motor winding up & down, for approximately 15 seconds. This occurred on near, initial startup. I tried popping the hood and listing to diagnose, but by that time, it stopped. The car sat for a day and was driven this morning. Again, I heard the same thing shortly after startup. While driving it to work, the check engine light came on and the code was P0411. Any ideas what's going on? What's the noise I hear? It sounds like the fan motor, but unusually loud. Thanks for any assistance.
Nvizn1 Secondary air injection pump... check the pump (you can give power & ground to it with jumper wires to hear how noisy it is without the engine running) and associated plumbing.
***** Thanks for the info. What do you mean by checking "associated plumbing?" What does the secondary air injection pump, do? On another note, wouldn't it mean if I'm hearing the pump winding up & down, it should be good?
Nvizn1 You should only hear the pump if you have the engine bay open and are standing in front of the car... have someone start the engine (cold) while you stand in front of the car (hood open) and then follow the noise with your ears. Once you find the pump, you will see 2 plastic tubes that are attached. One tube feeds ait to the pump and the other feeds the air to the combi valve... all this is "associated plumbing". A noisy pump can be because of a broken plastic tube or because the pump bearings are shot.
***** Gotcha. Since I replaced the water pump and had a jack moving the engine up & down, is it likely it's the tubing? I was up and down with the motor, quite frequently.
Thanks so much for this video.. I have the code 0411 and I was trying to figure out the problem on my 2003 1.8T Jetta. I did just as you did in this video, with the exception of, I did not release the vacuum on the Combi Valve as I don't have that tool.. but I did remove the hose that you removed at 2:40.. which is the hose that leads to the Combi Valve.. I took a wire, and with the ignition turned on, I did what you did to "jump" the pump.. well, it didn't come on.. I could hear a buzzing sound like it was TRYING to come on.. but didn't.. so I ordered another as a replacement, and after it came in and I installed the new one.. I tried to do it again.. but once again, nothing but the buzzing sound like it's TRYING to turn the pump on, but it's not coming on.. what could that be? Any help would be appreciated..
You should have checked the pump with jumper wires directly at the pump before condemning it. The relay supplies power to the pump... you need to check how much power (battery voltage) is at the connector when you bridge the relay slots. You also need to check the ground wire of the pump connector to make sure that it has a good ground (battery negative connection).
Hey Thomas.. thanks for replying.. Actually, I came across another one of your videos.. I was totally doing the wrong one.. In one video, you jumped the one on the right, but you said sometimes they are on the left.. well, I went and looked and boom.. the 100 is on the left.. So.. I just now jumped that one.. and the secondary air pump came on.. and it's blowing STRONG.. so now, I need to start checking the Combi Valve.. which means I'll have to buy one of those hand pumps from Harbor Freight I guess. Can't believe I replaced the pump just cause I was jumping from the wrong place.. figures...
+fockyoumang nope, I bought the pump on eBay for 60 bucks. Guaranteed to work. Plugged it up and it works perfect. I also found out I had a vacuum leak by pulling suction and jumping the pump and air WAS coming out the tail pipe. They tried to get me to spend 300+ for all the new hoses. But I went to autozone and just bought a few feet of hose in 2 sizes I needed, and cut to length and clamped them down.. Everything works perfect now!
+Sterling Albritton I found a cheap place and replaced all my pcv hoses for $70 with tax. Something is wrong with my SAI and just turns on and off every couple seconds there's this click sound, and my a.c. went when a pressurized house blew out. Omg it's a nightmare, it's driving me crazy and I just did all new cross drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads, entire lower suspension, everything, bushings, ball joints, knuckles, hubs, swapped the 6 speed for the 5 speed Corrado gearbox, Raceland coilovers, all new water hoses and spout from the block and the coolant ball, split y hose, brand new oem Audi corrugated plastic hoses from the air pump, I don't know what else to do. I just feel overwhelmed, like what's next! My cousin works for a central vacuum, fireplace, gas type company and we cut and made all new intercooler piping, I think the bigger diameter pipe that's thinner dissipates heat way more efficient than the stock piping, 3" Billy Bass downpipe and cat delete, 4" cat back with resonator delete to a 5" muffler delete, cold air intake filter, cans, valves, springs, port and polish, and little things here and there and it has never been the same. I wish it was just bone stock again, it's an 02 gti 337 1.8T. There isn't even any H02 sensors because there's no place to put them so I just said f it. I got a sticker after I was able to keep the light off and promised to fix the exhaust. I seriously want to junk it or find a person who will buy it who has the experience and money to restore it. It's tornado red with a sunroof, and don't ask me how it has one but it does. Overwhelmed
Yeah, sorry... it's an old video. Ask questions... get help. Year, make, model, engine? Fault code? If your car & engine is similar to this video: - check power & ground to the SAI relay - verify that the air pump works when bypassing the relay - verify that the combi valve opens when vacuum is applied - verify that the combi valve receives vacuum when the engine is started cold - verify that the air pump runs when the engine is cold. If you have a scan tool that can view live engine data... monitor "short term fuel trim" and activate the air pump (open combi valve with a vacuum pump). Fuel trim should change. Watch this video to see what I mean (different engine, but same process). ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4GPFeCeugNk.html
Hi, Great vids!!!! I have an 2004 Passat with the P0411 code. The Air Pump comes on and runs randomly with the engine off. Think it is the relay? If so, what number is it? 100?? THanks!
Adam Socolofsky With the engine warm & at idle... apply vacuum to the combi valve (so that it opens) and apply power & ground to the SAI Air Pump. Using a scan tool... what is the % of "Short Term Fuel Trim"? Like in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4GPFeCeugNk.html Low % of fuel trim correction points towards weak air flow or a restriction in the air passages.
+Adam Socolofsky If you are not getting any change (should be +15% or more) then your combi valve is not opening or passages are blocked with carbon. Did you apply vacuum to the combi valve? when the vacuum is applied (pump off)... can you hear exhaust pulses from the combi valve?
Title says: VW A4... As in VW A1 A2 A3 A4 etc. as in mk1 mk2 mk3 mk4 etc. Generation. Had I made an Audi A4 video, the title would have read: Audi B5 or B6 etc.
***** makes more sense now have not heard them called a A platform in a while use to mk3,4, ect or mkiv, either way thanks for the video this will help allot as i have to do this fix in a few days here... THANKS!
I got an air leak some where.think i felt it near the turbo or exhaust manifold.tighten bolts.still same problem.wander if it has anything to do with egr system.2001 passat sounds more like 69 beatle.lost so much power too.any suggestions?
if the car has reached operating temprature(90c) and i'm driving and come to a stop and idle, i hear what can only be the SAI pump coming on for about 5 seconds then turns off and then the CEL comes on, could that mean the relay is bad? i've changed the solenoid valve(for a used one, was not the same part number but came from a 1.8t), the pump works, no cracks in the pipes either
What you are hearing is the ECM "testing / checking" the SAI system. It can't check the system during a cold start, so it has to wait until the engine is warm and all the other parameters are met (O2 function specifically). It then turns the SAI system on and checks O2 response... if the front O2 does not go lean, then it flags a fault in the SAI system. Not a relay problem if you are hearing the pump on cold starts (or during the warm check). If the combi valve is opening, then you might have a restriction in the head, that is not allowing enough air to pass through to the exhaust.
***** hm.. is there any way to check or do i have to pull the head? cause that's sounds like more trouble than its worth.. and can the other combi valve that i got be the cause? considering that it was a different part number or are they all the same?
With the engine warm & at idle, I would manually trigger the SAI Pump and look at "short term fuel trim" with a scan tool. You will need to activate the combi valve with a vacuum pump to open it up. If fuel trim does not go 15%+ , then there is a problem with either the combi valve or the passages in the head. Here's a video of me checking the system on an A3 / mk3: VW A3: 2.0L ABA SAI System Quick Check
Burnacide I have yet to see one that had plugged passages... it can happen, but recheck the easy stuff first. The passages could be cleaned with a stiff wire by working it in and out of the passages, but I'm not sure what kind of bends are in the head. A spray to dissolve the carbon might also help.
A better way to check the system is to activate the pump "at the pump" (not removing the relay), opening the combi valve and then viewing short term fuel trim... like in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4GPFeCeugNk.html If your combi valve has a small vacuum hose on the side, you need to apply vacuum with a vacuum pump to open the valve before you activate the air pump.
Thank you. My own problem was a vacuum leak in the small solenoid valve that activates the combi valve. I diagnosed it by seeing no vacuum at the combi valve's control port hose during cold start, while the air pump was running. Evidently not a common failure cause. My combi valve was pretty carboned-up, and the silicone hose connecting it to the solenoid valve looked suspiciously discolored and hardened, so I replaced all three -- problem solved.
Here's an updated video (for a 2.0L, but same principal applies to your engine). ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4GPFeCeugNk.html I'm sure you'll figure things out and save your self some money. Let me know if you need specific info.
