In this video I demonstrate how to remove a bolt seized inside the sleeve of a bushing. This routine can be modified for a number of different purposes.
ALRIGHT! I watched your video last night. Got it done this morning. The parts arent even here yet! Thank You so much, it works. Wasn't sure what I was gonna do, had been soaking all of em with Kroil for a few days. Thank You Again Sir!
thank you. my grandfather was a mechanic. unfortunately he died the year I was born, and I never got to learn any of his mechanical wisdom. I am a masonry contractor, and my truck is out of order, a major disruption in my business. you may have just saved me some time and money, and, even better, you taught me a something I otherwise would not have ever thought of myself... thank you for taking the time to provide some knowledge to some young buck with a hard head but a willingness to learn!. I'm in ny, and holy hell, glad I learned to weld, because the spring shackle is the least of the worries. or, it should have been. lol
I'm used to working on 80's and newer cars but my father in-law picked up a 1960 Jeep Willys CJ-5 and we got stuck on the leaf spring bolts being stuck to the inner sleeves of the bushings. Just watched this video and it makes so much more sense now. Thank you! His Jeep isn't nearly as rusty but the bolts are clearly not clean enough to just let go.
You have no idea how much time and anger this saved me, I’ve been putting off the rear shackle lift on my project buggy thing for over a year because I could not get the bolts to break free, after this I had it done in under 4 hours, which is pretty fast compared to what I was expecting out of it. Thank you
LOL. Actually I think that I do have a pretty good idea of how much grief this routine has saved me countless times through the years. I'm glad that it helped you.
yes Sir! When you heat the bolt head to cut it off, try to place a solvent lube on the cooling head as the heat will draw it into the sleeve to help add lube to the bolt and help the draw-out process. I have an upper arm bushing where I broke the bolt and nut off of the 5/8 bolt and it will require the use of the inductive heating tool to get me out of my jam! DARN! Excellent video!
Thanks for the info. I used your method for bolt removal on my'05 Silverado shackles and it worked perfectly! The road salts are tough on frames here on Capecod. Again thank you.
SUBSTANTIAL John Gillespie Thank you for sharing what you know with us great video Take care and have a great day John Gillespie From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
I have a bolt just like this on my Suzuki GSXR750 (motorcycle) suspension...i've been wrestling with it for about 4 days and have managed to round off the end of the bolt. It's completely rusted inside of the bushing also but this technique has given me another option. I now have something to try again tomorrow. Thanks for showing this video and fingers crossed!
@@larryalexander4833 I have considered doing a video on just what penetrating oil does in a situation like this. Let's just say that it isn't as helpful as we would like it to be.
I just went thru this on a car that I was replacing struts on... i eneed up using a sawsall on it and buying a new bolt. The Nut was welded to the subframe so this methoed was not an option. Then its drill old bolt out time.
I used a claw hammet on the head of the bolt after splitting the nut with a grinder. 97 rust belt ranger and I come up with this after hours of thinking and fighting.
I once had bolts that were so tight that I combined the ball joint press with this routine. I have also started drilling from the opposite side. I hate getting beat up by a bolt that is going into the trash.
I think you need to change the title of the video to "For advanced only" Try to do this without any fancy tools and on the floor on stands lol. I done it, it`s a pain in the ass but I got it out. it`s funny. I have seen many videos like this one but non of them without fancy tool. Do it like the old timers did it, then we can talk :)
There are times that replacing the bushing is necessary. I do have a tool kit specifically for that. It all comes down to what is in the customer's best interest, as well as the shop and technician's.
dude,it worked just did two on the spring,with my milwaukee 1/2 impact m18 volt,,everone should have a good impact and of course oxygen aceyeline torch
did it on a 98 2 door blazer,oh dont forget to remove the gas tank...lol....i was changing the fuel pump and change all your lines,get from (gas tank renu)...easy...oh THANK YOU
Ugh. This worked partially for me :/ The bolt came about a quarter way out then the bushing started to spin. Gonna try a 30lb jack hammer on it if that doesn't pound it out i guess i'm finding someone with a cutting torch.
Unfortunately there are some occasions that the rubber bushing is just too weak to survive and it has to be replaced. Some things we can do to increase our chances of success are to have as much of the shackle still in place, it's added mass takes some of the stress from the impact gun off of the bushing. For extremely tight bolts you can try to start drilling it out. This both shortens the length of the bolt that has to be pulled out by the nut and weakens the bond between the bolt and the sleeve.
Yes sir! The fact that I was able to get it a quarter of the way out was a success in my book :) Them bolts have been in there for 23 years. First time they've ever been touched. They're coming out come hell or high water ; ) Thanks for the reply!
If it isn't seized to badly a tool like a ball joint press can work. The one thing that you want to avoid is pushing the steel sleeve out if the bushing with the bolt. Once the bonding of the sleeve to the bushing fails you would need to replace the bushing.
Sometimes, it helps to think outside the box. The other videos I've watched, the people were struggling trying to get the whole bolt out intact. These just need to be replaced. Don't cut corners to save a dime. You will regret it later
If the bolts come right out, and the threads for the nut are in good shape then there is no reason to not reuse them. When the bolts are seized like they were on this truck you could spend hours trying to save them so it's better to just replace them.
@@thecardoc100 I mistyped my comment, i meant why save the bushing? I just finished the vid and you addressed that scenario at the end though🙂. I know when i do my 04 wrangler control arms(probably originals, getting too rusty soon) im sawzalling those right out and using new bolts. Time, money, effort, i will buy $50 of hardware to save hours(8 control arms, 16 bolts, 16 nuts)
@@thecardoc100 Also curious about an idea for stuck bolts in bushing sleeves. I saw a vid on removing stuck exhaust manifold studs by using jumper cables and a car battery, one lead on bolt welded to stud, ground on head in nearby spot. It got bolt very hot very fast without flame and broke free the corrosion bond between bolt and alluminum head. Maybe it would work to free rust bond inside a bushing sleeve, not sure, but someone should try it. Would have to be careful not to use too much heat. As there would be no flame im thinking it could maybe work without ruining a bushing, probably not but you never know till you try.
If the bushings are still usable it saves both cost for the parts as well as the additional labor to replace them for the customer. The ten minutes that were spent removing all four bolts this way worked out to about a $200 savings for the vehicle owner.
@@thecardoc100 This guy's method makes me think the method i proposed would work great. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NtcctK2fL3Y.html This is the jumper cable trick. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cUlJ5f2-FcQ.html
Two almost 3 minutes of exercising it..? Holy shit I've been stuck on mine for about an hour and a half.. the sleeve is siezed and it's turning in the bushing..
Sometimes they just won't come apart. Keeping some of the old shackle between the nut and the sleeve can help prevent the sleeve from breaking loose of the bushing but once the sleeve has loosened it is likely time to consider replacing the bushing.
In order to pull, you have to have something to push against don't you? Of course it is pulling the bolt out, the piece of the old shackle is what the puller has to press on in order to get the bolt to come out of the sleeve.
Don't you run the risk of cooking the rubber inside the bushing using a torch instead of a cutting wheel to cut the bolt head off? And spraying a red hot piece of metal with water could end up tempering the steel of the frame shackly, making it brittle and causing it to possibly crack and fail? Just asking for a friend!
Rust is a good insulator so the heat is very slow to conduct to the bushing. As far as being concerned about changing the temper of the metal, every. Piece of metal that is truly subjected to sufficient heat that changing it's temper might be a concern is heading to the trash once this is taken apart.
