Thank you so very much Sir! This is exactly what I was looking for. Your knowledge with very simple good details and to the point. Not like other videos who wants to tell the story of the beginning of the septic from the ancient worlds. 😅. You nailed Sir! May God continue to bless you with knowledge to help others. 🎉
Adam, Thank You so much for posting this. You are my Savior. The typical white to black kicked my breaker!! I searched the web to find out how to hard wire my float/pump!! Thank Goodness I found you!!
Thank a lot for this video it’s exactly what I was looking for. I had plugs on my existing pump and they were totally eaten through but everything works. I did like you said with the silicone and also put it in a weather proof box so I should be good for awhile. Thanks!
old video but worth a shot. my installers screwed up 17 years ago and issues since. the 1.25 pvc comes in riser almost at tank level with a typical elbow box. Flooding during heavy rains so all the switches and pump wired there. I am adding an elbow and bring the box near top since difficult to seal 4 sets of wires into this WP lidded box. I am trying to run buried flex conduit for pump, probably use 12/2. The floats, probably use TW wire but see other shielded stranded wire a fraction of the 20' needed, so 120' for all 6 wires. Would I be OK running waterproofed similar wires to the floats probably 14G 15 amp?
@@wholesalesepticsupply9801 I got 25' of Gear It SJOOW 12/3 power cable. Sturdy water proof durable wire. Running 14 THWN for 3 floats, that is what, well, THHN, now. Since the D elbow hole is almost directly at tank opening I an running all new wires to new box as well as using 1" 90s and a 45 to mount a waterproof box on riser wall. All connections watertight not. Currently is 14 wire and I see Romex. Since the D box was co stantly looded no wonder the floats were always messed up and fried my Norweco box. The only.reason my pump lasted was when I replaced it I used the waterproofing nuts with self fuse tape. so the pump and on off float could withstand being submerged for days. I have to blow out the 1" but unless a super flood all com.ections should wothstand a bit of flooding. I gotta say the air pump conversion is amazing. Got a whirlwind. I got a flat riser lid and it sits on top. added an elbow for spa tubing can drop straight down bit. OMG the smells almost disappeared when sprinklers go on. The old shafts can't compare plus if it floods the aerator will.still diffuse and not blow and tear up bearings. Been watching the float set ups and I may keep the float where it is but lower the override and set the alarm just before the inlet pipe. That should alert me that the water level is almost at the bio filter outlet. I am definitely taking that class to do own servicing and reporting to the county. I nearly.rebuilt an entire septic mechanically. Thanks for these videos. They really do help. Septic companies gotta eat too but 700 for wiring a new box, 30p for bio fter clean, 100 per float These cost can kill a person financially.
Thanks. Question, my system has two plugs that plug within each other. I want to put a light that shows when the pump runs. I was thinking on wiring the light between the two plugs. Would that lit the light bulb when the pump is running?
great video. so if you were to install a 3rd float(being an alarm float), that would just be spliced to its own low voltage line? and aside from that it’s just your typical switch loop between the two other floats?
to add to that, out to right next to the main pit i’ll install a ground electrical box, and to there i pull everything i need in THHN through conduit. the few times i’ve done it i’ve always had a dedicated “LV” line where both wires just splice directly to the two wires on the alarm cord, no neutrals and no ground needed depending on what alarm system you’re hooking up to. and then on the inside of the house i’ll junction that to 18-2 LV wire and run it straight to a mountable alarm box that plugs into an outlet(in which i install a dedicated GFCI for). i’m somewhat new to these kind of complicated septics but this has been working out great for me. and other than that addition it’s still your typical switch loop between your other two floats.
Yes it would be a separate circuit for the alarm. On the on off float it it really determined by how deep the tank or lift station is. If you have a pit that’s 3 ft you might not need a on off float unless you prefer it. If the tank is 6-10 feet deep it would be necessary. As far as where electrical connections should be made we prefer if it’s possible to run them outside the tank. Inside the tank causes issue when servicing. You know have connections under waste water and that need to be brought down to do work it creates issues down the road. The best set ups we have seen are done by people that service and install. They know at some point something will go wrong so they tend to plan out what is easiest when serving is needed. Someone that just installs tends to not think those issues out. If you can make the connection above ground if a control panel and close to a wall mount it there we have seen 4x6 treated lumber used to mount that works well also.
I have a sje rhombus box and the floater switch wiring goes to the box not to the pump so I forgot to take a picture before I took the wire off but can't get the new pump going.The pump has 3 wires green,blue and black and wires I have coming from the box black,green and white so I used green to green,black to black and white to blue please help thx
I forgot to ask him a question. The wiring diagram you show is for the pump and the gray float which is to activate the pump, correct? Now, if you have an alarm that is wired in on a separate service, correct?
So the pump switches always use mechanical switches? Is that because the mercury switches can't carry enough current? I didn't know they was that weak. Great video.
Junk Yard on Franklin pumps we have had issues with mercury so we switched to mechanical and have had zero issues. On a sta-rite pump you can use a mercury.
You jumped into connecting wires by saying, here's two wires and start connecting..... You didn't clarify which float you were connecting first , then second and it all became a confused mess. Then you started mixing up black and white saying ignore the color and treat them like black, but what float did you connect to the power vs pump?
He connected the lower control float (mechanical) to the pump from the incoming power source. The upper is the alarm float (mercury switch). I'm curious how it's wored in too.. I have to replace both my floats and pump.
Donald Lee it’s really hit or miss on the position they fail in. And cycling has less to do than age of the pump. As the pumps age it pulls more amps. Most floats are rated for 13 amps and the pump new pulls 10-11 as they age that goes up degrading the float. Lot of people think of the float makes noise it’s working and it’s not. Most pumps fail do to motor failure so it’s a given the float needs to be changed unless a relay in the panel turns the pump on and off.
Bill Fisher 220 pump would be different and and they are rare for this type of pump. Hp comes into play also and the control panel would have contacts in it with a relay. This was only for a 115 septic effluent pump.
The tape been new if you pull it out but won’t come off if you use decent duck tape. The environment is corrosive there is chlorine gas for the tablets used and wastewater is very corrosive as well.
You still did not explain in proper sequence , telling stories between steps and returning to what you were just saying and saying white to black incoming or ! White to black pump whatever ! Don't matter is not how to explain wondering all over the place and knowing ! This is where people mess up ! Stay on the subject in hand so we don't loose you along the way
