Not a silly question at all and one I seriously considered. If I were to thread the barrel, I would go with 3/4x20 threads and use a "full profile" internal threading insert. The RAR receiver ID falls perfectly in the minor diameter range for this thread size. There were a couple reasons why I didn't, however. First, the distance between the major diameter of the internal thread (.750") and the scope mount dovetail is getting too close for comfort, although it is doable. This is why I recommend a full profile threading insert because a standard threading insert will most likely cut a major diameter of the internal thread that is larger than .750". Second, I would have had to completely chop off the existing barrel shank because I'd need something larger to thread. I'd have to turn the rear end of the barrel down in diameter a bit so I there would be a cylindrical section to chuck in the lathe, then polish and reblue. It opens up a can of worms. This, again, is doable but I didn't want to go there. Finally, by doing my best to replicate the Ruger factory assembly, it reduces variables in my experiment. No second guessing whether the improved accuracy was due to the tighter chamber or because the barrel was threaded into the receiver. Having said all of that, if I were to install a new barrel blank, I would give the threading option serious consideration. Thanks for watching.
well done, nice video, nice job. I'm doing this very thing for a bunch of Anschutz Achievers for a nearby girls camp. I'm re-doing grub screws and using green Loctite cylinder retainer too. Seems to work pretty well.
good video, thanks for sharing... I guess it was good to see how tight the barrel was to tight fit into the receiver, gives some sense the setup is somewhat robust... Did have any trouble press fitting the re-chambered barrel back into the receiver ? Looks like a lot of force would be required.
It went back together just fine. I did apply a thin smear of oil on the shank before pressing and the lathe tailstock generates a lot of force for the press fit. Of course, when discussing press fits, a couple tenths (0.0001") in diameter can make a big difference but I am very comfortable in knowing that my barrel won't ever move in the receiver. Thanks for watching.
John thank you very much for making this video. Man that is the Cadillac of arbor presses! Did you have any issues with head-spacing and/or bolt lockup?
Thanks for your note. Just make sure to measure everything, twice. The RAR checked at 0.043" headspace prior to removing the barrel and I got it right back to that when reassembled. 0.043 is the SAAMI minimum headspace and I don't see much benefit to going smaller.
I know it probably wouldn’t matter for a 22 but when you dial indicate the OD of the barrel on your lathe is there a way to use something like an extra long pin gauge that’s actually stuck in the chamber and sticking out a bit, then indicate off that pin instead of the outside of the barrel. Is that a thing when chambering on a centerfire rifle? Thanks.
Hi Shane, Good question and I do think it matters. On the RAR barrel, there is very little straight section ahead of the chamber before the taper begins. I didn’t want to have to chuck on the taper so I went with the absolute minimum setback required to clean up the old chamber with the Bentz reamer. This decision left some of the factory barrel shank so I dialed in the OD to match the shank. After finishing the OD, I dialed in off the remnants of the original chamber before reaming the new chamber. Of course, the reamer is going to follow the old bore, even if it is a little bit off. If I had a fresh barrel blank, I would have dialed it in off the bore and done everything off that chucking.
Sorry, I am not a professional gunsmith. However, I'm sure there are good gunsmiths in your locale who could handle the job for you. This video might offer a couple tips to help them on their first RAR if they haven't already worked on them. Thanks for your note.
@@dauntlessendeavors1000 I realized that moments after I sent the message. Have another question for you. What do you think about threading the receiver like some of the more traditional actions?
@@gebogen4409 I had considered that option and would have chosen a 3/4-20 UNEF thread because the minor diameter tolerance spans the ID of the receiver tube. However, the internal threads would get really thin at the scope mount dovetails. There is enough metal there and it would probably work fine, but it is close. If I were to cut threads, I would definitely use an internal carbide threading insert which was specific to 20 TPI. That way, the crests of the threads wouldn't be cut any deeper than absolutely necessary. I also decided to stick with the press-fit assembly so as not to introduce another variable into my little experiment. If I were to recommend one design revision to Ruger on their RAR, it would be to eliminate the scope mount dovetails. I'm not a fan of them and much prefer scope bases that are screwed to the receiver. Plus, the receiver would be cheaper to manufacture and stiffer (at least theoretically).
Hi Keith, Thanks for asking but, no. I'm just sharing my experiments. Hopefully, you can find a good gunsmith in your area to do this work. If they haven't worked on a RAR, maybe this video will help them understand all the steps required. Have a great day!
Thanks for your note but I have to disagree. For less than $300, this is a great value. It is very reliable and is plenty accurate enough for a youngster or new shooter, for casual plinking, etc. It is the rough and ready gun I'd take when the weather is too nasty for my safe queen. It was never marketed as a match-grade rifle. As others have pointed out, it looks like I am attempting to turn a VW into a Ferrari. I've never had such illusions. I've enjoyed the process of tinkering with this rifle to see what lessons can be learned. Hopefully, you will agree that some of the experiments with this rifle were a learning experience that can be applied to any rifle. Thanks again for watching.
