Fascinating video, very frustrating that you have a beautiful clock but parts availability make it hard to fully restore. I have a few electrics with nice cases but cant make em run for the motors. Thanks for showing all your steps you take along the way. I have learned from you not to give up on noisy motors and to get oil where it needs to be. I am working on more electrics because it seems the price for key wound clocks is very high right now.
My guess is someone inserted the plastic tube in order to stop the chime and strike function. The Chime and strike trains on this clock are the same as on the ST124. The strike function relies on the chiming function to run so if you inhibit the chime function you've silenced the clock. Many people were unaware that the clock has the ability as you pointed out of putting in a number 0 key through the face of the clock to lift the hammers so they don't strike the rods. Another potential problem for you: Unless you paid careful attention to the gears in the Chime and Strike trains I fear that the clock won't chime properly or at all. There is a relationship between two of the gears in the chime train (3rd and 4th wheel) that have stop pins on them. They must be synchronized properly not only in relationship to each other, but also in relationship to the locking plate as well. There is also a relationship between the location of the correction lever and the drop lever that must be set correctly. In the strike train there is a relationship between the rotation position of the gathering pallet. and the strike locking wheel as well as the location of the hammer lifting star. Leaving the gathering pallet on the pinion of the 3rd wheel won't be enough. The 3rd and 4th wheels will have to be timed properly relative to each other if you do that. Most will carefully pry off the gathering pallet to get the gear out of the plate to clean the pivot and pivot hole. In ST124 movements this hole will usually require being rebushed due to wear over time. Wear in the pinion holes will also be a problem in general. If it's too great the pinions will shift causing a binding and as such additional drag against the motor. Again I'm not certain of the operation of the mechanism where the electric motor is involved without having looked at one. You will find various videos and blogs on the ST124 and how to get all the timing (synchronization) set up but I would warn that some of them are WRONG! Best bet to get it right is to get Conover's book "Chime Clock Repair" where all the synchronization steps for the ST124 are shown in diagrams and explained. Those chime and strike trains are identical to your clock even though it's a clock spring movement as opposed to having an electric motor drive system. You pointed out that the motor winds a spring for the chime / strike movements? I would make sure that the spring and it's wheel pinions and holes are not worn. Clean and lube those as well and rebush if there is too much slop. Make sure the sprind is well lubed so the motor doesn't have too much load there.
Thank you for this video! I've been sitting on a Seth Thomas E Falsbury for many years which has the Sangamo motor seize issue. The mechanism is labelled 1703. I'm considering whether I can replace the motor with a completely different one that fits in the same space. Not concerned about the motor being original equipment, only that it works! And hoping I can get away without fully disassembling to clean the gearing, as yeah, that's quite intimidating.
@@mherzog7 Wondering if there's something that can drive it which can simply have an adapter designed and printed to make it fit. Just not sure what the ideal rpm should be.
If you are talking about a 3-D printer, I have no idea how that would work. But you cannot mix and match parts from one clock to another. I have not given up on this one, if I can find a similar Seth Thomas non-working clock, between the two of them I should be able to come up with enough working parts to make one clock.
Mark, I have an electric clock just like the one you have and mine keeps time well except I need the key to wind the spring in the chimer or to turn it off if I need it off. Is your key a #6 (3.75mm) for winding the clock and 0000 (1.8) for adjust the time keeping? Just want to make sure I order the right key. Thanks.
Can you tell me the name of the gears that you wind up in order to drive the chime mechanism? I have the same exact clock; the clock keeps time, and the hour chime works, but the quarterly chime wont run at all. I think i need a replacement part. :(
As somebody whose worked on later version of this clock... I really don't know what to tell you about that motor. That wasn't the issue with the movement I was working with. Something has to be worn somewhere, I'd think. Going the washer route may be your best bet, here.. If you can find something small enough.. Sorry I can't give you more info on that motor right now.
I have the same clock with the same "motor play" problem. It would only work sideways. Bushings and spacers didn't help. I was somehow able to move the motor drive gear towards the body and it allowed the motor to spin freely. This clock now keeps absolutely perfect time and has been running a little over a year. I hope this might help,
