When working with the clock parts close on your bench you only have to slip with your tools or drop the clock body and you will likely damage the parts and make yourself a mess of trouble.
I bought an Ingraham SA5, and it arrived yesterday. It's somewhat different from the one in your video. Most notably, the motor is the type with a large electromagnetic coil underneath. If you Google "Ingraham electric alarm clock (circa 1930s) with one side of electromagnet coil disconnected.", a forum thread with interior and exterior photos of my clock should show up. (The title of that thread was due to a misunderstanding I had earlier; I thought the clock didn't work, but later got it to work.) Currently, the clock is running way too slow (for the second hand to go around the clock once takes 1 minute and 38 seconds instead of 1 minute). There's a small metal rod with a slot for a flat screwdriver that I think is for adjusting the speed, but no matter which way I turn it, the clock seems to still run too slow. Do you know how to properly adjust the speed?
My SA5 does not have that adjustment rod. I have seen it on other clocks, where it is used to disable the alarm. It moves a lever that prevents the hammer from contacting the bell. I do not know why yours is running slow, these clocks usually keep perfect time. It is likely an issue with the motor. If you can completely disassemble it, clean and lubricate, it may work properly.
@@mherzog7 "I have seen it on other clocks, where it is used to disable the alarm. It moves a lever that prevents the hammer from contacting the bell." Ah, I see. "If you can completely disassemble it, clean and lubricate, it may work properly." What is the best lubricant, and what's the best cleaning substance? Also, what are the best things to use to clean the wood and the brass trim? And does Restor-A-Finish fix milky-looking patches caused by rubbing alcohol? I used alcohol to clean the glass on the front of the clock and accidentally got some on the wood. It causes milky discoloration on the varnish.
@@hardwickebenthow I use synthetic clock oil, there are several brands, I use Horace Whitlock, but I am sure they are all the same. If you have an ultrasonic use hot water with Dawn detergent to clean the brass parts, otherwise use a toothbrush with Dawn. I clean out the pivot holes with a toothpick soaked in alcohol. I use Bruce's wood cleaner for wood cases, and follow with Restor-a-finish. You can try it on the white patches, it may help and won't make it worse. I use Brasso to polish the brass.
@@mherzog7 "otherwise use a toothbrush with Dawn." Would the correct procedure be to put Dawn on the toothbrush, lightly scrub the parts with it, then rinse the Dawn off of them under running water? Also, does this only apply to the interior parts made of brass or also the iron/steel ones?
@@hardwickebenthow rinse parts in hot water, dip toothbrush into some dawn. Parts should be taken apart. Do it to both brass and steel parts, but make sure you dry the steel ones as they can rust.
When you had the inner mechanism taken out of the wooden case but plugged in to test the alarm, I could hear the motor/clockwork sounds. Is the motor significantly quieter when it's installed in the case (ie, does the case cancel out most of the noise)?
Excellent Video Thanks for sharing. Mine does the same thing, the pendulum swings for about 10 minutes then stops. I believe my main spring might need to be replaced.
@@mherzog7 No, I will need to give that a try. It is fully wound up right now. What is the name of the tool that you used to wind down the spring. Not sure if using the key is a smart idea.
@@briantreiber Do not use the key. You need a let down key. Here is a link on how to make one. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e6ymsnQh_Yk.html. He makes it more difficult than it is. Here are a couple of links to videos I made showing how to use it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZLM5aPWLnCg.html, go to 9:30; and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q3Vr28Jz-Qc.html, go to 4:40. Just keep your fingers away from the key so they don't get whacked when it spins down.
Can you tell me the name of the gears that you wind up in order to drive the chime mechanism? I have the same exact clock; the clock keeps time, and the hour chime works, but the quarterly chime wont run at all. I think i need a replacement part. :(
Thanks for the info! I have seen that in other clocks, but I have also had clocks that do not start even with the second hand turning. It is usually due to either sluggish gears from a build up of dirt and oil or a frozen rotor. Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for a great video. I have the exact same clock and it needs a new power cord as well. Now I am confident in what I’m doing because of your video. Thanks again!
You are welcome! I am giving the link to a video I made on how to replace a power cord. It gives greater detail than I showed in this video. You may find it helpful. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FnUZg5DmCi4.html
@@nychemcoach I have not worked on any windup alarm clocks. If you mean the set knob is stuck and you can not unscrew it, it might be a reverse thread, try turning it to the right. Or grip the stem with a vice grip and then try turning the knob. If you mean it won't turn at all, a gear is likely jammed.
Thanks for the clear instructions and parts list! Brought the frozen rotor of a telechron school wall clock back to life. The drill bit shot in a bit too far my liking but thankfully the near 100 year old contraption was not affected; to do it over I probably would put some sort of a stop on the drill bit if there’s such a thing. Thanks again for taking the time and effort to put this video together.
I just want to know what kind of ohms reading I should have through the coil. I have an antique GE "schoolhouse" (what I call it) electric clock that I believe a lightning strike in my building may have taken out the coil. I had a washing machine that the same thing happened to but it melted the fine winding wire for the timer motor right at the end where it was soldered in and was able to re-solder it. I'm wondering if I can do the same with this. I just can't see where the winding wire is connected to the terminal for the cord. I'm getting 753K ohms through the prongs of the plug and 0 from plug prong to the solder point on the coil so the cord is good.
I do not go by ohms reading when checking the coil. I use the ohm meter selection that looks like an electric plug, and it just tells me if the circuit is intact, if the coil is not burnt out or some other break in the wiring. I get all different numbers flashing. If the circuit is intact, it should be repairable.
Great, and now I am a fan of your videoes. You explain very good and I think your wife is great,- giving you the TIME to do these wonderful videoes. Best from Denmark/ Erik
Hi Mark! Thank you for making this in-depth video with the additional troubleshooting you provided. I really want to repair a clock that has been sitting unused for more than 30 years at my parents' home (I have the one you showcased at 1:40 -- Schatz '52). I've never repaired a clock before and from the research I've done, this seems like a quite challenging clock to begin with. However, this clock belonged to my great-grandma who brought the clock with her from Germany in the 1950s. This is the last remaining item my mom has from her grandma, so I'd really like to restore this clock and present it back to her on her birthday. As stated prior, I've done some research using the book (Bible*) you showcased and I found that I need a replacement part called the Schatz Standard 52, which I am having a lot of difficulties finding. Being that I have no expertise with sourcing clocks and their parts, I was really *really* hoping you may be able to provide a direction I could research in. Thank you for your time, Paul
Hi Paul, I assume you are referring to the clock with the diamond dial. Mine is a Konrad Mauch, not a Schatz, but different companies made the same shape dials. You can get any parts you need from Horolovar, call them at 740-277-7083. Ask for John, he can confirm which model you have, and you can order parts at 'stores.thehorolavarcompany.com'. Good luck, and email me if you have any questions.
Thanks !! , mine is quiet plugged in , but makes that same noise unplugged, unplugged runs 4 seconds slow a minute. There is an adjustment F / S but works is good for me . Thanks for getting back to me, I really learned a lot from your vid’s ..
Hi Mark , question? I bought one from esty and much to my surprise, it works perfectly!! My question is: should I unplug it sometimes ? Once a week, month ? Or no . Thanks again !!
An absolute treasure in the world of RU-vid. I am a VERY novice horologist, making several "bone head" mistakes along the way of gaining knowledge. This video has, in the words of another reviewer has inspired me to put my fears of lack of knowledge and apprehensions aside. I have three anniversary clocks to repair. I now know what NOT to do in the course of repairing them.
Per the bellow part of this video. I started off using contact cement. Took too long and it was messy. I use super glue. Lots faster. I have plenty of videos on how I repair bellows. But still a great job.
Thank you! I saw a couple of videos on repairing bellows, using contact cement and super glue. My concern with super glue was, as this was my first attempt, if something was mispositioned, I would have no time to correct it.
This is a BADUF 100 movement which is the abbreviation for the company mentioned. They per the NAWCC started in the late 1800s up until about 1980s. . Very similar to the AMS and Hermle movements. Not sure when they were made. They take 325 gr weights. Nice video.
Hi Mark, I have the book on Sessions clocks by Tran Duy La, on page 246 is shows your clock, it's listed as No. 247 M 1936. Of note is that the same case was made in a eight day lever time movement (No. 257 L 1936) Lever meaning a ballance wheel escapement.
Back in 1955 plastic was the new wonder material. It probably cost more than the old fashioned glass. Nice clocks, I wouldn't mind having a go at one myself.
Thanks, and like the guy said to Dustin Hoffman in The Graduate, "Plastics, there's a great future in plastics." But the product by Novus really works wonders at removing the scratches, almost as good as glass.
Thanks. I have the identical made by Gustav Becker. My horror story is when the clock begins running too fast or too slow and I have to turn the screw on the torsion and fear to break the spring.
@@mherzog7 Thanks. Well, I have to hold the pendulum and it is difficult to keep it stable and the tension of the spring changes. Some time ago I experimented with putting miniscule pieces of metal on the pendulum. I wonder, putting it nearer to the centre will make it run faster or not?
You will never get a precise setting by adding weights to the pendulum. If you hold the pendulum steady with the thumb and fore finger of one hand, you can use your other hand to turn the key a little bit, to adjust the speed. That won’t cause damage to the suspension spring.
Fantastic video, this answers a lot of similar questions that my clock is suffering. If spring is twisted replace it, followed by a good clean out, then adjust the beat of the clock… see how I go ok🧐🇦🇺
Call the Horolovar company at 740-277-7083. Ask for John, tell him what clock you have and he will tell you which suspension spring you need. If you send me a photo of the back plate, I can let you know as well. Send it to my email.
Mark - did you get the hour strike to chime correctly?? Just picked up a working one of these beauties! It did not chime on the hour when advancing manually, only the half hour. When I let it power through the hour on its own- it chimes correctly
I have repaired 2 of these, both strike at the 6. I adjusted the hands so they would strike at the 12. But both had a discernable click, initially at the 12, then after adjustment at the 6. I found the click annoying. On the second clock I removed the part responsible for the click. Do you hear a click at the 6?
Many Lux clock cases were made by "Syroco", (Syracuse Ornamental Co.) in business from 1908-2005. " Syroco wood is a specialized wood pulp material that was created from a combination of ingredients (wood pulp and flour, to name a few). Thanks to their specific composition, the Syroco company could press the material into compression molds, which would solidify into shapes that resembled carved wood."
Thanks. My one question is how to know where to position the rack and the snail. At first, it was not chiming correctly, but through trial and error I got it working. But there must be a correct technique.
