Setting up a CA Technologies Pressure Pot For Resin Casting 

Scott Allen Hey Scott, yep I remember. I'm hoping to see some pics of your upgrades. Might have to snag a few ideas from your shop!

Ted Alexander Thanks Ted!

cmcustomcarpentry Awesome! You'll love this pressure pot. It's a night and day difference in quality compared to the cheap ones, and it's really pretty easy to set up. I definitely want to see some of your creations when you get it set up.

+Dirk Mitchell That's awesome! Just be careful and maybe test it out from a distance to make sure there are no problems with it, but it sounds like a score! Hope to see what you make. I saw another message from you in my email, but when I click to see the comment it won't go to it. You were asking about where I'm at in NV. The shop is in Carson City, live in Gardnerville. Nice to hear from someone that knows Nevada, where did you go after Elko?

Zac Higgins I am in Salt Lake I moved here in 2002 and havent been able to leave :)

That's awesome! I'm glad it helped out a bit. I love all the cool knife scales people make with resin. Tag me on facebook, instagram or twitter if you post any pics of what you make. I'd love to see them!

We do boss👍🏼

Will do, sorry autocorrect

your mobail no

Congrats on getting a new pressure pot!! I'm glad the videos helped, definitely do the soapy water, it should show you any leaks that you should seal up

CA Technologies pots are really nice, the HF pots definitely do take longer to set up and are poor quality for sure

Chad Schimmel Thanks Chad!

Thanks! Hope it is helpful =D

BoatworksToday I'm not Zac, but that wasn't a dumb question, either. The reason for using a pressure pot instead of a vacuum chamber is that the resin Zac uses sets up too quickly for a vacuum chamber to work. With a vacuum chamber, you degas the resin by pulling a vacuum and then allow atmospheric pressure back into the chamber -- driving the resin into the voids in the embedded material. It can take more than 30 minutes for this process to be completed -- which is a problem when the resin sets up in less than 15 minutes.

BoatworksToday Hey Andy, not a dumb question at all. David was pretty much spot on, but I thought I'd give you a little more depth as to the how and why. First off, I do use vacuum when I'm stabilizing wood. Stabilizing resin stays liquid until you bake it. In that case, you want all the air to be removed from the wood, then once you remove the vacuum atmospheric pressure forces the resin into the interior of the wood. You then bake it and you've essentially plasticized the wood. For making pen blanks, I'm not really impregnating the wood, and many times wood isn't even in the equation. The pressure just removes any trapped air bubbles within the resin. Epoxy and PR have such long open times, that the air usually escapes on it's own before it starts to set up. Alumilite sets within minutes, and there's just not enough time to let the vacuum completely remove the air. Pressure works instantly compressing the air bubbles to a microscopic level. When you are embedding things like wood or pasta in the resin, the pressure also helps to force the casting resin into the nooks and crannies of the object better.

Zac Higgins Not to split hairs but I talked to my engineer son and he is pretty sure you are not really making microscopic bubbles. You are forcing the air into solution like carbonating water. In a bottle of pop (soda for some of you) the carbon dioxide is in solution because of the pressure. Open the cap and the air escapes but since the resin is cured the air is "trapped" so to speak.

Hey Park, it just depends on the resin you are using. If it's regular set Clear, about an hour is fine. Slow Set Clear I usually give 2-3 hours. Whatever the demold time is for the product should usually work.

Thanks for checking it out! It's possible, but you need to be able to see what's going on inside. If you're going to be degassing silicone, you can just buy a clear conversion lid. I'd go with something that is clear on the sides like the TurnTex chambers if you're planning on doing wood stabilizing

Thanks so much for your reply! I will look into both of those options. A clear chamber would be nice to have!

Thanks Joseph! Glad it was helpful =D

Thanks Darrin! It all depends on the resin you use, typically the 'demold time' for the resin you are using will dictate how long it needs to stay under pressure. If it's a very small amount of resin, you might need to increase the time though. You're basically waiting for the resin to harden up. If you release pressure before it's fully hardened up, air bubbles will just come right back. Glad you made it over to my channel. Sam rocks!! It's great to see him having fun with resin too now =D

Hey David, I'm not entirely sure if an airbrush compressor would work. I haven't heard of anyone who has used one for that purpose. My guess is that it wouldn't be powerful enough, and/or it would take quite a while to get it up to pressure. I don't think it would hurt anything to try it out, but I'm not 100% sure if there is a potential to damage the compressor if it's not powerful enough. If it doesn't work you might look into California Air Tools compressors. They are much quieter than typical oilless compressors, here'a link to the one Dema did a review on: amzn.to/2cxl54Y I don't have a lot of experience casting molded objects, but I have a couple ideas that may help you out with that. the first is to sprinkle baby powder in the mold first, then blow most of it out. The baby powder can help the resin fill in the crevices better, but shouldn't have any effect or show up in the casting. The other thing that may help out is to pour a small amount of resin in the mold and slowly swish it around in the mold to get a thin coat of resin on it it and into the small details, then mix and pour the rest to fill it up. The two pours should bond together with no problems, and it should get resin into the nooks and crannies better. I picked up those two tricks from the Punished Props RU-vid channel

+Jim Peavy Hey Jim, glad it was helpful :-) I'd keep the extra ball valve on there, won't hurt anything and would just add more work to get set up. I actually like having it on there, I crack both the inlet and the paint outlet ball valves when depressurizing the pot so it goes a little faster.

+Zac Higgins Thanks again - just setting mine up now and working great!

+Jim Peavy Awesome! I can't wait to see some castings!! Send in some pics when you get a chance :-)

My personal recommendation is to get a compressor that has a tank about the same size as the pressure pot. The small pancake compressors will work fine. If I were to buy a compressor for casting, I'd step up to the California Air Tools 5 gallon one though. it's a little larger than the pancake ones, but it's much quieter and the larger tank size means it won't be compressing as often. They're about the same price anyway, so it's kind of a no brainer if you have space for it. Here's my affiliate link to them on Amazon: amzn.to/2Sxk4JI

@@ZacHiggins Thanks so much!

I'm not sure what it could be off hand, my video on finding and fixing leaks might help out a bit: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZzdNZ6nqrgM.html

Hey Radek, in general the higher the better, especially for embedding things. If it's just resin only, there's really no need to go much higher than 60 or 70 psi. If you're going for tube-in style casting using silicone molds, higher PSI could deform the molds, so just do some experiments to see how everything reacts, and you should be good to go

Yeah, they have a model that is made for resin casting that excludes all the junk we take off anyway. Where did you buy it from?

Just the enough time for the resin to become solid

I'm not sure what the minimum requirements are, I have an 80 gallon 5HP compressor hooked up to mine that runs our whole shop. I know people who use the smaller pancake size compressors with them

Thanks , I got a 30gal 5hp 9cfm I'm sure it will refill the pot in time to spray paint, just wanted to make sure

Hey Tom, glad to hear you found me. I'll have to thank Carl for pointing you in my direction. Great to hear you're getting started with casting and have started turning. I have a few video playlists covering casting and setting up pressure pots that I think you'll enjoy, I linked to the playlists below. I see that you've watched a couple videos on pressure pots, but there are a few good tips in the playlist that will help out a ton when you start setting yours up. As for the air compressor, most of them will work as long as they can pressurize up to the PSI you want and have enough capacity. If possible, I'd go with a 5 gallon tank, but you can get by with the smaller pancake or hotdog style compressors as well. If you don't have one yet, it's not a bad idea to get a decent compressor, they are useful for lots of things in the shop. I have a link on my "Tools I Use" page on my website (nvwoodwerks.com/tools/) to a popular compressor on the market that's gotten really good reviews from other RU-vidrs who do resin casting and woodworking. It's super quiet for a compressor and definitely will work well for casting. For pressure pots, I use the C.A. Technologies brand pots because they are excellent quality and are rated to 80 PSI. There are lots of brands out there, and everyone has their favorites for various reasons. If you can afford a CA Technologies though, it is what I would recommend. I have links to the pressure pots I use as well as most of the other tools, equipment and accessories that I use or recommend on that Tools I Use Page on my website: nvwoodwerks.com/tools/ Also, I have an e-book that you might enjoy, "The Beginner's Guide to Resin Casting." It covers all the basics for newbies, and it should help out with the initial learning curve. nvwoodwerks.com/product/the-beginners-guide-to-resin-casting/ Here's the video playlists: Casting Acrylic Blanks: ru-vid.com/group/PLoeB-EPC_91sNmfaYAlVFZQsY7wL4myyv Alumilite Resin Casting: ru-vid.com/group/PLoeB-EPC_91vvS-hpuVI1qqj4_9SII2UY Pressure Pots: ru-vid.com/group/PLoeB-EPC_91uBZHKS1mbeoy9AZyjjZmrA Top 10 Dunkin Junk Projects: ru-vid.com/group/PLoeB-EPC_91tTh9zYnQNThYxVIZKFWSv6

@@ZacHiggins Thank you for all of the information, Zac!

Hey Bryn, I close the valve and remove the hose once it gets to my desired PSI. If your pot leaks really bad and you are using a slow setting resin, you may need to just leave the hose attached to ensure the pressure doesn't drop. You have to watch out though, make sure the regulator is set correctly or you could over pressurize it, and always keep the safety relief valve installed on the pot too. My suggestion is to find and fix the leaks if possible, I definitely feel more comfortable no having to leave the hose hooked up. I have a video that covers how to do that: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZzdNZ6nqrgM.html

Fantastic thank you very much for that Zac. Very helpful.

I'm not entirely sure Jim. Might not have been mixed in well, or the resin may not have been mixed up enough. If there are areas of unmixed resin in the casting, it can weep liquid out of it with the dye in it possibly

I'm not totally sure. The only thing I can think is that you don't have a ball valve on the tank, so the pressure would drop right away when you turn the compressor off. Once the tank reaches the pressure you want, you then close off the ball valve so it holds pressure. Then you can remove the air hose from the tank or shut off the compressor

Thank you Zac. I appreciate your willingness to help me. You're a wonderful resource. I took the Pressure pot and air compressor to a mechanically-minded person and he showed me how to operate the pot/compressor. What seems easy for you is a big learning curve for me. I'm back on track and all is well. Thanks again.

You can use them inside, but I'd probably recommend using the vacuum pump outside because of the exhaust and it would have to be running the whole time. Most of them emit some oil that you probably wouldn't want in the basement. The pressure pot would be ok indoors I think. The compressor wouldn't be on too long to get a pressure pot to full pressure.

Thank you! I had figured as much but just wanted to be sure.

sir I want purchase

Hey Jim, I'd recommend getting it from Finish Systems, they have the ones that are made for resin casting, and they will help you out if you have any issues

Thank you Sir Much appreciated.

Robert Evans Good question Robert. I think if you are definitely going to do a lot of casting, it's worth the money to just get a top of the line pot. If you're just starting out and plan to do a little casting here and there, then the Harbor Freight pot will work just fine. You can always upgrade down the road.

Zac Higgins Do you have a video on how to setup a HF pot? I've checked them out at the store and it mostly looks like you need a cap for the paint outlet. ETA: Found it, I'll post any questions in that video's the comments.

Cliff Hartle The video is a little older, so I didn't awesome camera angles on it. Let me know if you have questions, I can help out.

Well, it is possible to convert that one, just need to get a ball valve and remove the pickup tube. It's definitely more work to convert one like that though, so if you're not in a big hurry I'd probably recommend sending that one back and getting one of the models I use from Finish Systems. I have a link on my website to the ones I buy: nvwoodwerks.com/tools/

I think I'll just send it back. I've already gone through enough of a hassle with a Harbor Freight pot and I don't want to risk breaking this one and not get my money back. Thank you for the help!

Zac, I have the same problem. No ball valve for liquid outlet. Not sure what type of ball valve fitting (female) that will fit. Do you think it is 3/8 air fitting?

We have a massive 80 gallon compressor running our shop. I'd go with the California Air Tools 5.5 gallon compressor if I were going to buy one today. It's a quiet running pump and more than enough capacity and power to get anything you want done with it. Pretty decent price with Amazon Prime too amzn.to/2ouTjLy

I'm not entirely sure what the minimum specs for a compressor would be, but you'll want to get one with a tank that holds about the same amount as the pot, typically around 2.5 gallons, and I think you will want one that is capable of producing about 90 PSI. The smaller job site compressors should work fine. We have an 80 gallon/5HP compressor in our shop, but if I were buying a smaller one I'd check these out: amzn.to/2ibMuvh It's much quieter than most of the small compressors on the market, and it's an oil free pump. Best of both worlds :) Dema got one of them and loves it. How high you go in the pressure pot primarily depends on the max psi rating of the pot. I run the CA Technologies pots between 60 and 70 psi. I generally stay about 10 psi under the stated max psi of any pot to be safe.

No worries Aaron, t's a good question. Any resin with a longer working time (over 30 minutes) will work, and the thinner the viscosity the easier it is for the air bubbles to float free. I use Liquid Diamonds epoxy whenever I need a longer working time, it's super thin, extremely clear, and has about a 45 minute working time. You can get it at Turners Warehouse: www.turnerswarehouse.com/products/liquid-diamonds-epoxy-casting-resin There are quite a few resins out there that would fit the bill though, that's just the one I like to use for those applications

That's awesome!! Glad you're taking the plunge, and the CA Technologies pots are definitely the way to go. I have links to where I get mine on my website: nvwoodwerks.com/tools/

Zac Higgins thanks for the response I also ordered the air compressor on amazon. Would i need to get the maxline kit and rapidair kit too?

It's not necessary, only if you would want to run an air line system in the shop. Otherwise, you can just hook up any hose to the compressor. I would recommend putting a filter on the line though just to make sure no contaminants or moisture get in the air line

+Rob Hawkins I'm not familiar with anything like that Rob. I don't take anything out of lid on the CA pots. Just add an elbow and a male air intake connector on the left side of the regulator, then cap off the right. I'd get in touch with the company you bought it from to make sure you're taking it off the correct way and not voiding the warranty in any way. I'd probably return it and ask for one that isn't set up that way. Finish Systems, where I bought mine, has some for sale that are marketed for casting. I didn't think there were any real differences, but there may be a difference between those and the one you got.

+Zac Higgins Finish was where I got it. I'll get in touch with them. Thanks for the reply!

Hi Rob. I am just getting into this casting stuff,I bought a pressure pot here in Australia and its looks like exactly the same one ,and also has the pipe on the inside. did you get this off without any hassles??

The mistake I had made is that on the CA Tech site there is a version of the pot that's specifically noted as being for resin casting, and it points out that the pot comes with the intake pipe removed. THAT is the one people should be ordering when using it for resin casting. As for getting the pipe off, I called them up and they recommended using a heat gun to heat the pipe attachment to soften the glue, and then using a pipe wrench to twist it off while having the lid secured in a vise. The pipe came off, but the seal of that fitting wasn't properly "air tight" anymore. It resulted in the pot slowly losing pressure (quicker than it normally does). A soap and water test revealed a lot of bubbles forming around the fitting where it connects to the lid. Obviously, twisting off the pipe had broken the seal a bit. CA was very accommodating, though. They assured me that if anything went wrong with the pipe removal that I could send it back and they would reseal the lid, which I did. I sent the lid back in and they re-sealed and tested the lid. Definitely call them first, and let them know what you need. They may be able to do it for you, or you may be able to swap the lid. Another thing to point out is that the pot will hold pressure better if you don't have the plastic liner wrapping over the edge. I trimmed the lip of the liner, but actually don't even use it because the bottom os bowed a little. Instead, I have a circle of wood in the bottom to make it completely flat and level. Hope that helps!

Should come free without too much hassle. If it won't twist free, hit it with a heat gun at the threads to loosen up any hardened thread sealant. Don't try to force it though, you don't want to void warranties or damage the pot. Contact the manufacturer if you can't get it out with minimal effort.

Sorry to hear you got a different one. In the future, I have direct links to the products I use on my "tools I use" page on my website (nvwoodwerks.com/tools/). I think I should go back in my past videos and add that link to the video description. I'm not sure what to say about your pot, I haven't set any other ones up besides the Harbor Freight and the C.A. Technologies pots like the ones I have. Maybe contact the company you bought it from and see if you could swap it out for a different one

Yes, I think it would be helpful for newbies like me if the link is there. Very good. I thought all pressure pots were the same so I chose the least expensive one, not knowing it was the wrong model. I am in the process of trying to work with CA Tech directly and with the distributor who sold it to me. I'm asking for an exchange. This is likely to cost at least $100 extra for round-trip shipping and the price difference. The casting pot is $40 to $60 more than the $298 one I got. But anyway, Zac, thank you for your willingness to help and to provide needed information.

Obviously, I'm not Zac, but that is correct.

IBDaddyO Thanks Mark!

I probably wouldn't mess with it as long as it's not an inconvenience to you or leaking

Have you had any issues with the new configuration on the pot you purchased?

Those are probably the HDPE molds that I use to make bricks of pen blanks. I buy sheets of HDPE and make the molds myself. I did a video on making melamine molds, but I've since switched to using smooth HDPE plastic since it's totally non stick. The basic construction method is the same as the melamine molds though, here's a link to that video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pP-7FQNArco.html If you're planning to do tube-in casting with label blanks, I'd recommend checking out Fred Wissen's silicone molds, they work the best for that type of casting. You can pick them up on his website: ptownsubbie.com/collections/tube-in-molds

Zac Higgins thank you so much

No, it's the 2.5 gallon. Thanks for asking, I don't think I mentioned which size it was. I'll add that to the show notes too.

Oh, ok, that's why I recommend getting them from Finish Systems. I have a list of links to the things I use on my website: nvwoodwerks.com/tools/ Best to check there before you buy. Contact them to get a nut to hold the outlet valve in place, you'll need to remove the pipe but it has threads on it that hold the outlet in place. In this video, I show you what parts you need to add to it on the regulator

Jim E Thanks Jim! Got your blank today, you're right that's extremely cloudy! I'll be in contact with you soon, we'll get to the bottom of it.

I haven't converted one of the 5 gallon pots with an agitator in the middle before, the one I bought came without one and has a cap there. I'd probably recommend contacting the company you bought it from to ask what the best and safest way to cap off that hole would be

Zac Higgins I've sent an email to them but waiting for a reply. Thanks