Excellent information! As A person just getting into reloading, I really appreciate this in depth video and explanation of this process! Thank you very much!
I started reloading back in 1980 using a $13 Lee Loader kit. As time progressed and exposure to hand loading techniques, I thought I had acquired a high level of knowledge. Constantly watching your videos repeatedly for the last 3 years, I continue to learn things I had missed! Greg, you have enlightened me to so many things that had me frustrated by being stuck at .5-.6 moa (back before the internet) with rare .3-.4 moa @ 100 yds. Thank you so much ❤
Although this is an older video, for me it is the most relevant and precise when it comes to the step by step process you have created here. Thank you for doing this excellent presentation.
Dude…we need more RU-vidrs like you. Someone with real viewer information. I just performed your informational guidance and just the results I’ve been try to understand for quite some time. Keep bringing the on!
I have never seen a better video of shoulder bump. Im a serious reloader and u hit the nail on the head of information i wanted to learn more of. God bless and keep it coming.
Just getting into it and have watched many videos. Most were only surface level and didn't really give me a warm feeling that I understood what I was watching. This video is the clear exception. Terms were carefully explained and illustrated. Now I feel I know how to set up a die and why all the little details are important as well as how they integrate to ensure I set up a good process set up for resizing. Thanks for the detail.
Wonderful information...I have reloaded for my hunting needs since 1995, and for the first time I had case head separation occur. I have had some difficulty with a newer savage 7mm-08 as the bolt got stuck, and in researching why, the neck sizing seemed to be the culprit in that I was not taking the shoulder back. I followed the rules of setting up the full length die, and lo and behold, the brass was apparently overworked and twice fired brass began to separate. I am going to get rid of the brass I just sized full length and start over....a hard lesson for this long time reloader who learned they still have a lot to learn.
The press does not cater for cam over. This way is the very hardest way to get a 2 thou bump. The varying size shell holders from Redding are accurate, accurate and cheap.
Hi Greg, great video and awesome Channel! I was noticing you use a whitten Die, of which I just bought. I was just trying the die out in my Foster Coax like the one you use and I have found that the lock ring doesn’t allow the die to slide back quite far enough into the recess of the press where the die is made to slide into. When I say “far enough” I mean that it doesn’t slide in far enough to allow the die to be centered over the shell holder thereby misaligning the shell when it slides into the Whitten die. How have you gotten around this problem, using the Whitten die lock ring ? Thanks so much
I've seen some say that dwell time with in the die will affect the sizing. Have you tested a 1 second dwell vs 5 seconds vs 10 second. I like your content.
This was a great video. Something I was looking for since my brass didn't work right. First time reloading for 223 and had some issue with the ejecting and tight fit. Would this process be the same for 223? I have a tone of range brass I picked up over the years. When you have a moment please let me know. Thanks,
@@primalrights Thanks for the reply. You are right it's all over the place on brands. What I did is sort them by brand just so I have an idea what I'm reloading. Hopefully sorting them will give me some good brass.
Thank you Greg, as a newcomer to reloading this is the most comprehensive guide to setting up a sizing die I have found. One thought has occurred though, if you set up the die after your first firing has the case fully fire formed at this point, or do you have to repeat this process until the case stabilises in length? (I use Lapua brass)
Do you ever have trouble from lubricant (die wax or other..) creeping up in die to shoulder area and pushing shoulder farther than desired or even micro dent shoulder ? (Via hydraulic action)
Hello there, what full-length sizing die with a no ball - mandrill deprimer , would you recomend to allow case to lengthen easily please?. I'm currently buying lyman and lee gear for 300 win mag , 6.5 prc. Thanks, mate, for your even communication and informative low preasure videos for new bees to follow. God's speed Andrew Nz
Have you ever used the SAC HEADSPACE COMPARATOR kit they sell? I had some gift money and purchase 308 and 223 one. I had brass that the headspace was push back using the Hornady headspace kit. I measured that brass and it was way off. I'm a little confuse on why.. Hopefully I will read more and see if I could figure it out.
I have been reloading for about a year now, slowly moving in the direction of accuracy with knowledge gained. Since dies are made to do specific things, my question would be: Can you use a combination of dies to maximize performance of the brass? Meaning, using a universal decapper, followed by a body die, followed by a neck die. I know there are multifunction dies that can do all or some of these functions. I'm a tinkerer and it wouldn't bother me to do one or two extra cranks for the sake of accuracy. What's you take? Thank you.
Forget neck only sizing dies, waste of money and terrible for your brass. Buy yourself a Type S bushing FL sizing die and a forster micrometer seating die and be done with it. I shoot half MOA or less all day at NRL and PRS Matches
This happened regularly to me when I first got in. No matter how deep or shallow I ran the die, nothing would change enough to get close to sufficient. After some suggestions (BTW I was using a standard singlestage) I tried swimming a case in shell holder with cigarette paper. Sure nuff the shell holder was contacting to early (as such no matter where the die was screwed in it achieved the same results. I had to measure the amount I still needed to setback, measure shellholder and veeeeeery slowly/carefully remove material via polishing/sanding and relegate that holder to a that specific rifle chamber.
I have a 6.5 cm. When I fire a cartridge, the brass does not seem to expand much at all because I can still easily fit the empty brass into the chamber and close the bolt with no issue whatsoever. Is this normal?
Thanks for responding. I’ve only been reloading for a few months. But I thought one of the goals when precision reloading was to size the case so that it just barely fits in the chamber and the bolt snugs up just a tad bit as it closes. If my fired cases already fit in the chamber quite easily, wouldn’t bumping the shoulders back make the brass even shorter, leaving more “slop” in the chamber?
@@primalrights well, that sure leaves a lot to wonder about. I asked because when jamming bullets you substantially increase the initial pressure so I assumed one would want to start at the low end of published data?
