The video details the repair of an existing sewer line under a concrete slab. The concrete is cut using an evolution concrete saw. The damaged pipe is repaired using Fernco connectors. Finally new concrete is installed.
This is the major reason why I would prefer a raised foundation as opposed to a concrete foundation. Of course the raised foundation's a little bit more initial cost, the fear factor of a sewage leak, water leak or electrical/cable lines being possibly inaccessible due to being buried in or under concrete doesn't appeal to me. That's my opinion. Every habitable property I've owned has had a crawl space/raised foundation with the exception of a townhome that I owned for less than 2 years. I love the access. Water pipes, sewer pipes, electrical wiring, etc. no problem...🤔
I prefer a house with a basement. That way most the maintenance items are accessible from the basement. Unless you have a leak under the basement slab.
I would have taken the time to cover the walls with plastic and used a saw with a water connection. Thats the only way to keep the dust in check! If you are doing it your way you need to have a box fan on a couple of windows to extract the dust outdoors.
Nice job ! Those ARC bands are great - expensive but really high quality. Only issue is that there is no center lip which similar to Fernco's - they can offset over time. I'll use a standard stainless no hub coupling on one side and just one ARC on the other. Our Code requires a metal plate underneath it to act as a brace.
Exactly what I know too!!! Best way to do it is run slightly thinner pipe to tunnel through the whole length or as I saw one guy do, a bigger pipe over it via a trenchless repair job!
@@philh8023 Trenchless is going to be very difficult to DIY, I believe. There aren't very many people who keep the stuff on hand to do a trenchless refurb.
Well-done, very informational. THANK YOU! BTW, It's a "rotary hammer" not a hammer-drill. At least, that's the naming convention I'm used to in the United States. Hammer drills lack the impulse power as they have to move a massive chuck back and forth.
First of all I gotta say what a heck of a job you did- And man oh man you just gotta love the Fernco fittings of any kind. I know they made my plumbing days a whole lot easier. Hey, ive got a quick question... How did you find the exact location of the leak and pipe beside for knowing the layout? I used to pay $1000 bucks just to have a company called Sonar Bonar come out for 30 minutes put a sonar and listen for bubbles wich only half of the time indicated a reference of a leak and area. Man oh man! ??? 💪😎👍 You da man!
I ended up turning mine into insurance, they will not pay for the pipe to be replaced but they did however pay for the replacement of the concrete cabinets, floor, and they paid for a hotel for a month.
Wow, another great video, but why do you only have two videos on your home page? You were made to be a video teacher. Just picked up my new tile today and I'm going to redo my 72 years old bathroom next week. I have never done this type of work before but at 73 years old my spirit needs a challenge. My question to you is after the red guard can I still put a rubber liner then the final deck mud? Oh, my bath walls have tile, mortar, and wire, it's going to be a dusty job..
If your slab is post tension it will usually be stamped in the garage. If that’s the case, absolutely do not do this repair without bringing in a foundation contractor. Post tension started to appear in Phoenix Arizona in about 2000.
I had to pay $200 for the plumber to exactly locate the blockage. He used a sewer line camera to pinpoint the blockage. Then he used an above ground "metal locator" device to mark the concrete while the sewer line camera was at the blockage location. Good luck.
Thanks Bryan, It took me about 2 days. I'm sure a pro would take less time. This sewer line was upstream from the main line. So there was no total sewer line down time. Good luck with your project.
Always use the right tool for the job. Sure, you can use a hammer and chisel but it will take you forever and increases the chance of an injury. You save money doing it yourself so get the right tool is my philosophy.
I wonder if it would pass code inspection if I did that under a permit or if repairs were needed to the frame sill plate or if walls were moved ,would that slab be recertified or approved for the project after that was done without a permit or with a permit because I have heard of horror stories that resulted in government forced tear downs of expensive homes because issues like that.
I hired a local plumbing company to put a scope down the pipe. The plumbing company identified where the roots entered the pipe. The root intrusion location was marked using a surface device on the top side of the concrete . The cost was around $250.
@@JWbabyshark a leaking water pipe in an adjacent wall or a leak of a water pipe under the slab and the water is seeping up through a crack in the slab.
The pipe was traced by a local plumbing company. It was a camera/locator head snake. The snake stopped at the root intrusion. A surface metal detector like device located the position of the snake/ root intrusion. The cost was about $300.
All that work to remove old cast, just to install cast. SMDH. Why not install sch 40 instead? Would last forever! Hire a licensed plumber next time. Regards, a Licensed Plumber.
