[Shaping + Glassing] Single Fin Surfboard 

Same

I struggled with the White T Shirt, black resin part!!🤣. If you found that relaxing give surfing a go, it will blow your mind and change your life!

watched it while eating

Absolutely

Bradah good job good for newbies to learn how to build boards

thanks so much!

hey thanks so much love your videos

@@CameronSardo Yeah, I really appreciate the time you must spend getting the perfect angles and editing!

yeah great ideas! hopefully i’ll have some time to make something like that soon!

thank you💕

JDub Hannah has a video on tools for shaping and glassing

thank you :)

yeah just to maximize opaqueness. the contrast of the white foam shows super easily.

check out my video “Glassing a Surfboard | Trying New Techniques” at 18:20 and 19:46. i show how i clean my brushes

1. yes 2. 80 3. first hot coat i sand the deck and bottom with 120 and the rails with 220 4/5. I use the same pad, but it’s a slightly softer aftermarket pad 6. yes Let me know if i’ve answered your questions. feel free to come back if you have more :)

@@CameronSardo Thanks so much for answering! I was checking out the same Dewalt today on Amazon so I’ll order one tomorrow. I have never been comfortable sanding boards with my big ass right angle Makita but that Dewalt with the motor above the pad seems like it would balance nicely. I don’t see your 5” pad on the Surf Supply website. Do you remember the brand of that pad and where you got it?

@@joeblow1942 I honestly can't remember where it came from but googling something like dewalt 5 inch sanding pad should come up with some pretty close options

I use the Makita 9237 for sanding, with 7” yellow, red and orange Flexpads, Indasa sandpaper (white line for rough sanding). For grinding laps, a Milwaukee 5000rpm with a 7” spiral cool + phenolic backing plate, using 60 grit drinking disc. Here’s a note I made for the rough sand you’re asking about, the #’s (1-4) are speed settings on the makita. * Grind down leash cup (grinder) * Grind down fin boxes (grinder, 60) * Work from opposite side of stringer * Grind down bottom laps (grinder, 60) * Until no shine at the lap * ~2” wide pass * Overlap passes 100% (eliminates wheel marks) * Grind down lap line on patched logo’s (grinder, 60) * Only lap area * Work from opposite side of stringer * Sand down deck lap (hard orange, 60 grit, 4) * Only lap area * < 1” wide pass * Overlap pass 100% * Sand down tail patch and/or deck patch (hard orange, 60, 4) * Blend first lap line first, then hit whole patch * Further blend laps on bottom (hard orange, 60, 4) * Get lap area perfectly flat * Further blend lap on deck (medium red, 80, 3) * Sand just out to where the rail starts to tuck, past lap line * Sand deck (medium red, 80, 3) * Overlap passes 50% * Further blend resin lap on bottom (medium red, 80, 3) * Sand just out to where the rail starts to tuck, past lap line * Sand bottom (medium red, 80, 3) * Overlap passes 50% * Hit all previously sanded areas, deck and bottom, and smooth out (soft yellow, 120, 1) * Overlap passes 100% * Sand rails, deck and bottom (soft yellow, 120 used, < 1) * Establish hard-to-soft edge rail transition * Rail bands (tip to tail, hold machine tangential to rail, pressing hard, barely any trigger) * At the 3-4” from nose and tail, no trigger * Flip board on side and fine tune the rails, tip of nose & tail (soft block, used 120 grit) * Any sort of wheel mark = flat spot!! * Further fine tune rails and tip of nose (hand, used 120 grit), use paper as a screen

@@matthewpoell671 great notes thanks for sharing

the extra tuck on the nose gives it a bit of a triplane to it. ryan lovelace has some super in depth explanations of triplanes if you’re interested in that. the extra rail bands on the nose and tail are kind of just guides for me. i don’t necessarily blend exactly to the line, but i’m able to see that i’m taking the same amount off on either side of that makes sense

@@CameronSardo ahhh right! Awesome man thanks for the reply. If you could shoot a link to the Lovelace video that would be amazing

instagram.com/tv/B7G_f_6AExu/?

Thanks! and i hear you for sure! definitely not the typical color for a board here in southern california

@@CameronSardo Stay cool and keep up the shaping vids . I don't miss the stink of resin and acetone 🤢 No dark " colours " here on your wax haha Hi from Coolum 👍

thanks so much! I use 6 ounce fiber glass for the entire lamination.

A lot of thanks for answer! I wish you good luck !

not quite sure what you’re asking in question 1. for 2, the finbox and leashplug that i’m using are designed to be installed this way. i haven’t had any problems with them so far. 3, i used sanding resin for the hot coat/ filler coat (laminating resin with some additives to make sanding easier.) 4, i didn’t ride this board because i had to hand it over to a shop but i’ve made this shape a few times with success. the single nose concave and single fin board set up is a pretty specific type of surfing. works really well in small-medium southern California waves.

let me know if i can clarify anything :)

Thanks for your responds:)

for the final sanding i use 320 then 400 dry. then i use 600 and 800 wet sanding. some people go to 1200 but i find that 800 works well enough.

@@CameronSardo ok thank 🙏 and very beautiful job for your planch

i use a dewalt 5 inch variable speed sander. for the first hot coat i’ll sand 120 and 220 and for the gloss coat i’ll sand 320, 400, 600, and 800. learning to not sand through the cloth is something that you’ll just need to learn with experience unfortunately. for the fin boxes, some go in before glassing and some go in after. it just depends on the type of box you get. feel free to ask more questions or lmk if i didn’t answer yours fully :)

How do you usually sand the the board right after you glass it? And I did a shortboard so I didn’t bother with a gloss coat so would that impact how much I should sand hot coat?

@@coltonmaihen1884 120 is good for getting the cut laps down after glassing. and yes, I'd go lighter on the sanding if you're skipping the gloss coat.

@@CameronSardo With my first time glassing a board, I had a lot of extra resin on some parts of the board because i didn't do it fast enough and it hardened on me, so there were a lot of shiny spots. I obviously have learned from that and know that is the first thing I should worry about, but if there is a lot of shiny spots where more resin dried on the board how should I sand that down before doing the hot coat, because I feel like that is what made the board look pretty rachet ?

if it’s small bumps you can try to sand them down, but ultimately it’s just going to be an aesthetic problem and i think that’s better than sanding it too thin and having a structural problem. I’d also recommend starting with no pigment or opaque pigments if you’re not comfortable glassing yet as they’re much more forgiving

the amount of catalyst depends on a lot of things such as temperature, use, and amount of resin. For blanks, if you’re just starting shaping, i’d stick with stock density and just make sure it’s wide and long enough for the shape you want to make.

for this one i used a car polishing compound from the hardware store. most of them work just fine in my experience

the resin never get hard enough and I have trouble because it become gummy on the surface.

in the lamination i do not use any wax. while sanding the cut lap it does gum up the sand paper but it should definitely cure far enough so that it’s not tacky at all when you touch it. i use ~1% catalyst/resin depending on the temperature outside

@@CameronSardo thank you, I will try to mixture the exactly proportion to see the result

thank you! yeah I use polyester resin

yeah you’re right, that probably is my best bet. thanks for the input! and thanks for watching!

@@CameronSardo Ah sorry for misspelling/mistakes.. I was writting in a hurry and I am not a native english speaker as well haha (bad combo aye..). But anyway, you got the point I think:) With the manual focus I meant to focus manualy before you will start recording - pick up place, where you would like to have the focus, focus there, start filming.. you know what I mean, I just wanted to be clear :) Looking forward to some more videos! Btw, some music as a background could be good as well, but I like it without it as well:) Cheers

yeah, i got what you were saying. the main problem for my situation is when my hands are covered in resin and i need to get a different angle/shot. autofocus let’s me touch the camera/lens the least amount possible. definitely could use manual focus on some of the still shots though. i’ll add that this is also my first time trying to film video so all advice is greatly appreciated. thanks for your comments

@@CameronSardo Ah yeah, got it. And I can imagine how difficult it can be to build board and film a video at the same time! :) Hat off man! Btw, maybe something like this could be the soluton for you ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4Rcl016du_A.html&ab_channel=Engineerable It should be easy to make one as a little DIY project :) Then you could focus manualy without touching the lense :))) cheers

I didn’t even notice anything was out of focus.

thanks! i’ll try hahaha

thanks I might have to look into that!

Festool is nice when hooked up to a vacuum but ridiculously expensive. You can save a small fortune though by using the dual mode Bosch with any shop vac.

most surf supply stores will call it sanding resin. usually comes premixed but it’s polyurethane resin with styrene and a wax additive

us blanks

yes

ya i never thought about it like that

For sure. It looks super cool though.