that I found mostly happens in SoCal not so much in NorCal... usually wind really destroys after about 12 noon in most of beach breaks down here but in SF or Santa Cruz it's usually no wind except in Spring it's very windy almost all the time
California loves you Koa!!! For sure spend summer in So Cal and bring us a Sunrise shack all I have thought about since leaving Oahu is how damn job your spot was.
Yewwww Koa! When First Point gets a good south swell, it can get really really good. I surfed there last week and caught wave after wave all the way to the beach. I usually don't surf there because it's always so crowded. But now I realize why so many people want to surf it.
Head south to SD... always a rule in Cali, surf early AM and late afternoon to avoid the onshore wind. Evening glass off with the Sun going down are always the best sessions...
@Marty Liening it's pretty empty in the line-up on dawn patrol watching the Sun come up but you can surf that wind chop slop and try punt after punt all you want...
God those waves in Malibu are stunning. 30-45 second rides it looked like. Just absolutely beautiful conditions. Last time I surfed at my local it was about shin high, 3 second rides lol.
Yea... welcome to the new Southern California coastal weather. It started about 4 years ago. Before that time, the average knots per hour was around 4 to 6. Since then, it is averaging 9 to 11. Strange how that changed and really sucks.
Koa... You need a dialed-in local forecaster, guide for Cali... I'm available. Ben knows me from the pier in Venice... Anyways... I surfed clean waves that whole swell, with a more manageable crowd and side/offshores - in the afternoons. Every other spot, it seems like, had pretty hard winds, junking it up, from early.
surfing with higher volume board is tricky. although you get everywhere you want because of the added flotation, it harder to turn aggressively. you really need to work on leg strength and push it very hard. thats why Medina surfs better than everyone else, he excels at it.