This video was a game changer for me. Thank you so very much for sharing. I now have the sharpest convex grind bushcraft knife in all of Eastern Canada. All it took was 1000 grit paper, a two by four and an old piece of leather. Thank you again!
I use a Fallkniven DC4 to sharpen all my knives including a Joker Nomad which has a convex grind. I find that I can more easily "feel the edge" than when using a sandstone . The DC4 comes in a leather sleeve which can be used as a strop too . Like most things in life , keep practicing .
Thank you very much. I have the F1 also and was trying to figure out how to sharpen it. I was using a mousepad and sandpaper but I might have been doing it wrong.
Have a Joker Nomad convex edge and chipped from chopping a knot perhaps. However, hoping this method of edge repair will really take out enough material to restore a smooth contiguous convex edge. Would like to have seen the knife actually cut rope but outside your camera field of view. Thanks, great instructional video. Gonna give it a try
Great demonstration on the convex sharpening, yeah it one of my issues though cause I have so many other knives with hollow or flat scandi recurve, etc, I had to buy a separate kit just for those knives :(. I need to find a sharpening system that does them all. Enjoyed this video. Mahalo.
Thx for the vid! if you backpacking for days to many items = put weight, its a no no. If you only bring one item to sharpen your convex, what would you bring? greatings from Sweden.
i have always sharpened and took care of my own knifes , it's just a part of being and outdoorsman hunter , fisherman and i've worked as a welder since 18 yrs of age so you couldn't tell me anything about metal and knife blades , but i've grown into a mature middle age man and have learned i thought i knew some shit about some shit , this is my first real knife the esee 4 and it was splitin frog hair when i got it in the mail , now i've used it some and as always i sharpen my own knives but i was scared at first with my new 160.$ knife but i started working on it and like always it was good but i kept trying to get the factory edge back and the more i did the more i fucked up , now the lower part of the coating is gone and my knife looks like a five yr old has worked on it with a 9 inch grinder , not funny to me and my first real knife but i have it almost back to normal but i say to all you do it all myself people and welders that think you know it all please listen and learn from these fellows that know the knives and survival equipment , i wish i had watched more video's and gotten advice from the pro's because now i have an ugly esee knife but it still works , please reply ! pro's and knife people that don't know as my self so you don't fuck up a good knife , facebook at Chistophe hester or email at cameronhester1@gmail.com please help or reply to my personal experience , thank you all much
Intobalance Bushcraft lay the blade flat on the strop then bring it to an angle where it's cutting the leather strop then back it down a little so it's not cutting the leather strop and that's your angle. Hope that helps and Mahalo for watching
In my opinion you are putting too much angle on the tip... it should never exceed 90 degrees to the cutting Edge... your way you will make the tip round
So what I take away from your video is that you can keep a convex edge sharp just by stropping alone.....only use sandpaper when the edge is damaged.....
I hate convex grinds, I like Scandi grinds because of ease of sharpening. All I need is a DMT Diafold Diamond pocket sharpener. I can get a razor like edge in just a few passes on a DMT sharpener. That sharpener is compact and easy to use in the field . With a convex you need strops and compounds , or mouse pads and sandpapers . It is more difficult in a field use knife. I never chipped my LT Wright Scandi blades because I do not baton or abuse my knife that is meant for cutting , that is what knives were designed for even though it can do that . Flat grinds and saber grinds can be difficult to sharpen in the field because it is hard to get a correct angle on that small edge on both sides in the field with a hand sharpener. It can be done and I sharpen my flat grinds but it takes more time than a Scandi grind. I own and use other grinds including convex like my Bark river Bird and trout , But it is never my main field use knife only for Fishing use . If you like convex that is fine, buy what you like and what works for you.
Mark JG I also do not baton with my knife so it stays sharper longer than if I where and hitting the occasional knot. I have a convex and for in the field the only things I bring are a Fallkniven DC4 and a strop I made that I clip to my pack. I don’t feel I even need the strop really but I’ll use it after using my knife for awhile just to hone it in and it seems I go longer that way before having to go to the sharpener and I also just think it looks cool attached to my pack but I have done this for every type of edge I have had. I never knew people thought taking all that extra stuff into the field with you was necessary for a convex edge. mine stays very sharp the way I am doing it currently. Sure maybe i can sharpen a different grind faster but I don’t find convex more difficult. I totally agree with you though buy and use what you like. I feel like different grinds excel and can be more durable at different tasks. One edge isn’t gunna be the best at everything we just gotta pick what’s best for us and how it preforms across all tasks for me I feel convex is pretty good across the board. I’ve never really seen it as something that requires more maintenance.
If a V edge and a convex edge have the same edge angle, the V edge is stronger. There is not "more material behind the edge" of a convex knife because you are removing material from behind the edge in order to CONVEX the bevel. A 30 degree V ground edge has a full 30 degrees of steel all the way up to the next bevel. Convex isn't a bad grind though and they're beautiful and unique in comparison to V grinds.
