Sharpen Your Jointer/Power Planer Blades in 3 Minutes Without Removing Them - Old School Method 

It’s actually a terrible tip. His method he shows is wrong. It’s been written in past magazines. The method is whetting.

Tap Magic cutting oil.

A power planer, also known as an electric hand planer, is basically a small jointer turned upside down with a handle installed. It will work fine. amzn.to/3I0ZI6D

@@DavidCanMakeThat where did you purchase your stone ??

I've never owned a planer, and I have a Craftsman with the flat blades. I was considering getting another Craftsman, but I know that the blade heights must be set precisely on the Craftsmans, because the outfeed table is non adjustable? But I am confused what you mean, can you please explain why a slight honing of the blades could be dangerous?

You've occasionally done it, but no one else should, is basically what I'm getting out of this comment. The point of my video wasn't that this was the proper way to sharpen jointer blades, and I said as much in the narrative. I indicated that it was a short term option that can be used between sharpenings, which it sounds like is exactly how you use it.

@@DavidCanMakeThat I have only resorted to this technique a couple of times when I was pushed for time and the budget was tight. I have my own straight knife grinder now so there are no excuses. Far to many jointers are used with dangerously blunt blades and these machines simply do not work accurately or safely unless the knives are sharpened regularly and installed properly. Many pro shops are guilty of this. Some guys are crazy enough to use this technique with machine running ! Suicidal. Even some trade school technicians teach this technique as legitimate. The temptation to cheat is always going to arise when your not in the mood to take out and refit knives but I would never teach this technique or encourage anyone to even try it. I have only used this technique when employed by cheap ass bosses who refused to allow us to change knives whenever it was required.

Yes there is a need for relief angle. But honing produces very little "land". So it is perfectly alright. The land is also what gives the edge more strength. One further benefit of hone in place is that the blade height on the edge of both ends can be improved.

@@ramonching7772 Jointing a thin secondary bevel in situ is used to ensure perfect concentricity by those who are struggling to get knives sharpened perfectly straight. But the land amount you can get away with is very very thin before friction develops to unsafe levels and hammering occurs. That tough edge comes at a price and does not give a good finish. Some people joint the edge then remove the blades and draw it back by hand. Another trick is to drop the out feed table and stone the edge to pull out the secondary bevel. All these tricks are possible but to do it you have to set the blades higher in the head. This reduces blade support and can lead to other problem's. Increasing the bite of exposed blade reduces safety. It can also lead to blades pulling out of the gib or worst case flying out of it. Ideally the back of the bevel should be flush with the cutterhead for best cut quality and safety.

Pretty much... all this does is level it off and push the burr to fold inside. But hey. To each their own.

It's still working great for me.