Yes Craig. I do prefer to level the scope and then when the scope-mounted bubble is done up tight that is that. You can remove the scope, swap it around - it doesn't matter as from that moment on when that bubble is level, the ret is level to the world, and that's what matters! Bubbles in mounts and rings only show you the rifle is level, which is not the point at all
"only shows you the rifle is level" If the rifle being level isn't the same thing as the scope being level then you already screwed up your scope mounting long before you even took the shot.
Why would you want cant in your scope though? Is it because the scope's elevation tracking isn't straight? You keep mentioning the reticle, but if your reticle is not aligned with your scope body, then you have to return that scope. It means you have a crooked reticle and no matter what, no level is going to help you out with that problem because the body is what the tracking aligns with, not the crooked reticle
Thank you for simply explaining cant..& did it in one sentence! I found more helpful info in this video then I have 20+ from others & some where reputable businesses
Accuracy 1st Company in America has a unique level. No liquid or bubble. There is a curved glass tube with hash marks. These hash marks show a specific decemal MOA amount. Not only can you level the rifle. You can actually determine the amount of cant to get the offset of your barrel to overcome the spindrift for faster shots. The glass tube is U shaped so the ceramic ball will go opposite of a bubble.
I'm using Talley lightweight alloy rings on my 6.5 CM Browning X-Bolt Pro mountain rifle. I compete with a 6.5 CM Ruger Precision Rifle with a Vortex scope mounted level (shown above). That's why I am putting Talley's TOP RING LEVEL on my X-Bolt. Integrating a level into the top half of a scope ring is a clever way of mounting a bubble level. It both saves weight, puts the level right where you need it and makes the level less obtrusive. It is likely the mechanically strongest rifle bubble level. BUT, tightening the 4 ring screws must be done very slowly and carefully in a criss-cross pattern to ensure the level remains level. And when doing the final tightening to 20 inch-pounds with a torque wench the 4 screws must all be very close to 20 in.-lbs. before final torquing. Did I mention to do this tightening very slowly? I live and hunt in Nevada and sometimes shoot at long ranges. After competing in long range shooting I more acutely feel the need for a level. A bit of cant at 600 yards/meters is a fairly large windage miss. IF you correct for wind when the miss is really due to your own cant you are usually compounding your error. COOL FACTOR-> My X-Bolt Pro comes with bronze Cerakote on the barreled action (& carbon fiber stock) and luckily Talley makes the X-Bolt rings in matching bronze, as well as the top ring level. "Matchy-matchy" ya know. ;o)
Very well explained. I think a lot of people who use levels don't fully comprehend the situation. When you talked about a plumb line in the distance (a piece of chain hanging is actually the perfect method), I knew you understood: ONLY the vertical crosshair needs to be plumb--and the level is used simply to signal that condition. The position of the rifle doesn't matter.
maybe I'm an idiot here....but mounting the scope to be level...and the gun at a cant...won't it cause the bullet to towards the direction its cantd towards...it wud cause you to have to adjust windage as well as elevation as you adjust it for a different distance. I just don't get y u wud make it tougher to make adjustments instead of adjusting the stock pad to be canted to fit your body better
Everything you said makes perfect sense. My question is this.... I leveled my scope to my rifle with the Wheeler scope leveling kit. This ensures that my reticle is perfectly level with my bore. That being the case, If I were to install a rail mounted anti-cant device, wouldn't that ensure that since my rifle is level, my reticle is to?
Yes it is... I understand your point. If everyone just insisted that the bore was round and there is no way to level to the bore, than why would anyone bother trying to "level" a scope... There are a million ways to decipher this argument. My point was this - If I verified that my table was perfectly level (both ways), leveled my rifle vice to the table in the same fashion, and leveled the rifle to the vice in the same fashion, so on and so forth with my rail and scope - wouldn't my rail mounted anti cant device show up level when it is actually level?
It doesn't matter if your table or vise or house are level/plumb.. The only thing that needs to be done for sure is to level your action in a vise, scope rings can't always be trusted to be true to the action unless you level them to the action. Then hang a weight on a line and adjust your vertical reticle to it. Then set your anti-cant. Cross-torque SCOPE screws to 18 in lb, recheck. ( Yes, use a torque driver). Fire some down range and keep re-torquing until the rings/scope seat and stay tight...Slow and methodical beats confused and cock-eyed.. .... ;) Happy X rings Dude... Judge
Great video. Thank you! I was going to get the one NIGHTFORCE makes since I have a NIGHTFORCE A.T.A.C.R. but it is a part of the ring, which means it's really only telling me that the rifle is level right?
I know this is an old vid, but I’m scrolling through whilst waiting for new ones; How can it be ok to cant the rifle relative to the scope? Extreme case being, if you cant your rifle 45 degrees, and level your scope, you’re still dialling sideways?
if your rifle is at 45, but you have leveled your scope and reticle with a plumb line, you are not dialing sideways. You have to consistently hold your rifle at 45 for this "extreme case" to work.
Great review as usual Richard...I have just bought an I.O.R with the 35 mill tube as you are well aware the turrets are wide on the I.O.R my question is using the vortex level can you see the bubble ok past the big turrets if fitted at the front of the forward ring ?? thanks Richard
You say if you use a rail bubble, your rifle could be level but your scope could not be. But if you mount the scope correctly from the beginning by leveling the rifle and scope with 2 levels at the same time and/or plumb line. Then mount the rail bubble and check its accuracy against the plumb line. Then you should be good right?
OrganikSecrets yes, but you’d have to repeat the process if you move the scope to another rifle. If the level is mounted on the scope that’s not necessary!
Really nice videos you've got there mate. Where did you get your Vortex anti-cant device? Have been looking for one like that to fit my setup but no luck besides the very expensive £75 Nightforce ones from Sportsmans. I hope you'll bring some more LR tips, I have been shooting this year LR shooting with a custom Rem 22-250 and I am always checking for some vids! Also after watching your review on the Atlas Bipod, you have convince me to replace my BR Harris. Really awesome choice!!!
@@jamesglenn520 leupold vx3, the ret was not aligned with the turret axis so the bdc tracked diagonally when the ret was upright and the turrets were pissed.
@@Guide504 Have you tried to get it replaced? If your looking for an affordable quality long-range scope you should check out the Riton 6-24×50Ri it's a FFP and lighted reticle. I have had one on my RPR Gen2 308 for almost 2 years and just bought another for my RP Rimfire. I paid $499.00 they are Vetran made in the 🇺🇸 and have quality Japanese glass.
Great. Teaching that the bubbles are for using true but then say you, as a great shooter, cants the scope to the left. That's going to confuse the crap out of new shooters.
