Great video! For those of you who want to try Rollei Infrared 400 (it's still available in 35mm, 120mm and 4x5"!), use a 720nm filter, expose at ISO 12 and develop 12 minutes in XTOL 1+1 with 5 minutes of presoak(!). Range finders (Fuji GW690, Mamiya 7II, Leica M, ...) work especially nicely with infrared film, because you can see through the viewfinder even if a pitch black filter is in front of your lens.
Awesome Mat!! I shot IR film about 15 years ago and digital took over. I’ve gotten bored with digital and stopped shooting. Recently I’ve gotten the bug again and am looking at shooting 35,120,4x5 and 8x10. After watching this video I will be ordering some IR film. Not sure on which format but just gotta get some! Thanks for the inspiration Mat! Dave
Ooooh what timing, thank you so much Mat! I wish we could get this stuff in 8x10 still. I use Rollei IR on occasion but I really don't like the thin film base (and find it's easy to get pinholes too). But when it works it really works!
Thanks Tim, Rollei IR is pretty much all there is in LF, and I'm already used to hangers and tanks for the Efke (somewhat thicker than Rollei). The added challenge really makes a good result feel worth it!
@@MatMarrash Oh it definitely is when you nail it yep! I've take some shots I'm really quite proud of on IR. The Rollei stuff is just sort of a reminder to embrace imperfection because I tend to get more imperfection with its sheets than other films :) Worth it though! I do wish Adox HR50 would appear in sheets though, that could be a lot of fun. In non-IR it's been an elusive film to figure out (VERY prominent S curve, at least for me in Xtol) - dynamic range seemingly almost like a slide film? I tested the IR capability in 35mm recently though and liked what I saw (though I need to test more).
Yup! Each time I see/shoot IR/Near IR film I think "man this is awesome I should shoot more" but the hurdles needed to get those results often keep me away. I should get through my stash before the year's end! Awesome results!
*Looks at boxes in freezer* Yep, it's a feeling I know all too well. The fog on this stuff is really starting to creep in, hoping to find a final project or two while it still looks okay.
I love this look so much, it looks like the trees have clouds growing on them. I really enjoy watching you experiment with large format even though I can't afford it. You have taught me lots about photography and the art of large format.
Do we have to do focus adjustment, since IR focuses on a different plane than the visible light? All my Canon FD lenses have markings for IR focus adjustment.
Love the ir photos. And the location. My wife and I have our lunch several times a week there, so I’m very familiar with the park. And I’m there quite frequently with a camera.
Your photographs are really beautiful. There is a project on oak trees that I have been working on, but have struggled to get the right look. In the right light, the Rollei near-infrared 4x5 stuff might be ideal. I don’t want the classic full infrared look for these… I just need to get better separation between the leaves and the branches. Thanks for this intro to infrared. I haven’t used it in years and the focus issue always stopped me from trying it in large format.
Thanks Lars, oak trees and IR film are a match made in heaven! Whenever I head down South, live oaks and Spanish moss make for ethereal photographs! The Rollei IR would be a solid choice.
Rollei IR 400 cuts off at 820nm, it's well in to the infrared wavelengths. To make it less IR looking you could use a 680nm cut off filter instead of a 720nm
Gorgeous images!. I have an IR converted digital camera and I love it because it works so well in harsh light that I would usually skip photographing in. I wish I hadn't taken such a long pause in regards to shooting film. On the upside, I have a lot of film in the freezer (not sure about IR) and you made a great point about shooting vs saving.
Thanks Michael! The scarcity of a discontinued film stock weighs on you when shooting it, but it's nice to see the film become more than a box in the freezer.
@@MatMarrash Have you shot - Rollei Infrared 400? And... while digging through my 4x5 camera bag I found a full set of red and yellow screw on filters in the bag. I prefer the larger "holder type" that you were using but apparently, I thought I needed filters. As I've said, this stuff has been sitting for far too long. I looked up platinum palladium chemicals today...Good grief. I need to find the chems that I bought 5 years ago. I may be able to retire...
@@MichaelLloyd I've only shot it in 120, but it's the closest that's out there to the Efke w/o paying absurd prices for very expired film. Speaking of too much money, those Pt/Pd metal salts are getting out of hand!
@@MatMarrash I sent you an email (and started supporting). I thought the price of Pt/Pd was out of hand 5 years ago. I'm really hoping that I stocked up (ok lets just say "bought some") back then. I work in NW New Mexico and I'm from TX (between San Antonio and Houston, small town America). all of my developing hardware (Jobo, trays, etc) are back there. I'll be down there next week to see what I can find and bring back. Crossing my fingers
Great video with a lot of good information and beautiful shots. I do some multispectral shooting on 35mm, so I'm curious if you've ever looked into doing UV landscapes? It usually requires a filter stack with all the associated complications and it can be a little hazy for deep backgrounds but it's still got that cool "world beyond our view" feel
Thanks! Never tried UV photography before, but may have to give it a go with a digital sensor first to see if it's something to pursue in film (especially large format). I'm always up for "seeing" differently with specialty films.
@@MatMarrash Best of luck if you give it a shot! I'll just pass on a few bits of knowledge then if it will save you or anyone else who's interested some research time. It's my understanding that a lot of standard film stocks are sensitive to the UV at least as low as 360nm. I know Rollei IR is for sure, since I use that for multispectral trichromes. The lenses are what do most of the filtering of UV so older glass with fewer coatings is best. And then you'll have to look at your own circumstances, but a jumping off point for the filter stack research could be a hoya u360 and a schott s8612, which does a good job selecting just the band around 360nm. You lose about 7 stops with that stack on a sunny day.
Back in the stone age (pre-digital) many many roll film lenses actually had and infra-red focus mark. Focus then move the point of focus to the red line. Easy
I noticed that the "quarter twist of the knob" @14:27 you appeared to move the lens towards the film. I think that is backwards and that it should be farther away as longer wave lengths will focus at a greater distance. I googled it, but you should too without my input as to the wording of the query. On the lenses for 35mm that I have, the adjustment for IR moves the lens away from the film, see my comment of a few minuets before this one as I wrote it before seeing your manual quarter twist. From what I have read, the amount of correction for every lens is different, depending on its design and can be from zero, to .5% of the focal length.
Hi Mat! That's a great video, thanks! I've been just wondering if I understand correctly how to compensate the focus. I've read on the internet that you should extend your bellows by 1/70th of the focal length. It also seems to be right when you look on a regular SLR lenses with the red dot on it (I mean, you should extend the "bellows" rather than reduce). I was a little bit confused, because I've seen that you actually reduced the bellows length. Is that correct?
So what will happen if you don't use a red filter? I'm going to have to find some infrared 8x10. I do have some Kodak Infrared for 35mm that's been in my freezer since the late 90's. I guess I should pull it out and shoot it this summer as you suggested. Thanks Matt
A bit out of your norm, but do you know of a place where I could find reciprocity values for SFX 120 film? I shoot with a RB67 and lord knows I'll have trouble finding someone to develop the SFX.... : ( I may not have a "big gun" camera, but your info translates very well to mid-format also. Love your videos Mat!!!!
Hey Dave thanks for the comment, and here's the official Ilford PDF on their films' reciprocity values: www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Reciprocity-Failure-Compensation.pdf
It's always a treat to see your IR stuff, Mat and this was a fun video to watch. Are there any IR 8x10 films currently available, or is it only old stocks of the Efke and such?
I'm a bit confused with your metered exposure times. I was shooting fresh Rollie IR in 35mm the other day and my exposures were only about 1/4 to 1 full second at F16 & F22. I used an R72 filter and the shots came out overall pretty solid. Can you explain a bit? Is it your films age or just the type of film?
As some lensed for small format cameras have a mark for focus shift when using IR film, could you make a square ring spacer of a thickness recommended by the lens manufacture to put between the lens board and the camera after focusing in visible unfiltered light, the thickness might vary depending on the filter you are using. I am assuming that the clips that hold the lens board can accommodate what would be in effect a slightly thicker lens board. If the lens only requires .2 to .6 mm adjustment, then you might be able cut the spacers out of old film stock, perhaps blackened with a magic marker and be less dependent on a small aperture to keep things in focus. Please correct me if I am wrong, but my guess is that for the same focal length an "apo" lens might less of a correction than a standard lens.
Do you take any precautions about keeping your IR film from the summer time thermal exposure? I've experienced thermal fogging of brand new film and found carrying a small Igloo Playmate cooler with a freeze pack for my 4x5 film holders to keep the sheets of 4x5 IR film.
Hi again. I just watched the whole video. Sorry, didn't expect you to be using the exact same film as I enquired about in my previous comment. I'm now looking for an R72 nd filter to fit my bay 3 Rollie holder. I've got a red filter that I bought years ago with the holder, but I don't know what it's number is. I can definitely see through it, and in my estimation it's about half of what I need. Any ideas as to what my camera settings should be. It's a Rollie 2.8f TLR? Anyway thanks for all the info in the video.
Most red filters are close to the traditional #25 filter, needing only 2.5 - 3 stops of compensation. You'll get a semi-infrared look from it, but highly recommend the R72 for the fullest effect. Cheers!
Real eye-catching shots there, thanks for showing the process of doing these, Mat. Does the step-up ring at 18:12 compensate enough for all image circle / shading issues or do you experience further limitations to the movements when you mount filters on the backside of this specific lens?
Olaf that's a great question! I didn't notice anything blocking up the corners when focused at infinity around f/11 so felt confident to give it a go. Movements-wise, the Tachihara will likely run of out room for movements before the SSXL. I may have to give this combination a try on the Sinar, which is super solid field camera, but will also kill my back x__x
@@MatMarrash I hear you. I once sold a Linhof Technika to buy me "the real thing", which I thought was an 8x10 studio LF beast. Not the most brilliant decision of my life, at all.
Hey Mat, great video and info as always. I was curious about what tripod legs you use? I have the same Majestic tripod that you use for your tripod head. I love the stability but the weight is a bit much. I would love to find a lighter leg option and it seems like you have that all figured out
Hey Adam, my legs are the Induro CT414, but still work great. More info on them and newer options here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fraADuAALyo.html
When you are adjusting for focus with the IR filter, are you turning toward close focus or infinity focus direction? When I look at a lens with an IR mark it seems like the focus adjustment is toward close focus. Gracias
Great chapter Mat, thanks. I have tried for the first time an IR filter on a B&W film...didn't imagine I needed IR film...duhhh... Anywho, I also read that not all lenses are IR friendly per se. Any thoughts on that? Thanks again.
Thanks Jason and I'm not too sure about IR friendly/unfriendly lenses. I've used a range of uncoated, single-coated, and very modern lenses and they're all done pretty well. I think LF lenses with single coatings match the "look" I'm going for with this film very well.
when shooting IR digital there are a LOT of IR unfriendly lenses which cause hot spots. But I am yet to come across that issue with IR film. For MF or 35mm If you want to be conservative you could just use lenses that have the IR focus mark on them, then you'll know they have been IR tested. Normally a little red mark close to infinity which is the IR infinity focus limit.
Hi Mat, very nice video and very inspiring. By the way, it's quite difficult to find an infrared film here in Jakarta, Indonesia, specially in 4x5 format, and that's the format I'm shooting currently (still newbie though). However, there's someone locally selling 135mm Kodak High Speed Infrared film roll. And I'm happened having an infrared filter, which is COKIN P007 (89B). So, I was hoping if you could give me some insight whether that filter will work with that film? Thanks
Hi Nilai and thanks for the question! That 89B filter is a 720nm cutoff filter that will be perfect for achieving the "glow" of Kodak HIE. Have fun with it, what a magical film!
Your 121mm Super-Angulon ... the specs I found says it has image circle (f22) of 290mm which isn't enough for 8x10 (311mm). Are these specs wrong or am I missing something?
The data sheet is right, the manufacturer's stated IC is a conservative one that accounts for professional applications and color film. For my casual use with black and white while using no movements, it's worked well for me.
Man these shots are amazing. Have you tried Lith printing with Ir film? I've read that it's a match made in heaven. And pretty sure that would be a video everyone would love. Not a lot of info about lith out there
Thanks Ammar! Lith printing is something I've seen demonstrated a few times before, but I'm afraid the age and fogging of my Efke stock has made printing especially difficult even with silver. Still want to get back into more alt process and I'm definitely adding this to the list!
@@MatMarrash there's a book by Tim Rudman it has all the ins and outs of the process. Sadly it's no longer available and the prices have gone crazily up (I've seen it for 700e on the used market) I was super stoked that I found it for next nothing. I still don't have an enlarger to start experimenting. I preferred building an alt process dimroom first.
:( The stock pops up on auction sites from time to time but prices are starting to go wild. My best recommendation would be Rollei IR which has a similar look and a slightly higher starting ISO.
I've shot Rollei IR 400 but they don't offer it in 8x10, 4x5 and smaller. Rollei is also the only IR film I can find in Europe. I guess I won't be shooting IR when my Intrepid 8x10 eventually arrives.
Z mojego doświadczenia w fotografowaniu mikrofilmami ortochromatyczny, wynika że trzeba brać pod uwagę nie tylko oświetlenie tematu ale także to jak "widzi" negatyw
AFAIK, Rollei IR 400 S and Ilford SFX 200 are the only current film stocks that offer near-infrared capabilities (no "real" IR, but enough for the desired effect). Of these two, I can only get Rollei IR 400 in 4x5, and the sheets are a bit too long (at least those in the pack I'm using at the moment, I have to check on the next package; interestingly enough they do work in Chamonix 4x5 film holders, but not in Toyo ones). Both are available in 120 and 135, and I do prefer the Rollei IR (shot at EI 200 with pull -1) over the SFX. It does not look good for 8x10 at the moment, sadly, one more reason to stay away from it … ;-)
@@michaellong9526 No, 13x18 is much larger. 4x5 inches are 10.16 x 12.7 cm, the Rollei IR sheets are 9.95 x 12.6 cm - so, in theory, they should be fine. Hmm, all other brands have 9.95 x 12.5 cm (my pack of ADOX CHS 100 II is actually 9.95 x 12.55 cm). Looks as if the Toyo film holders are a bit short, while the Chamonix ones seem to be actually 12.7 cm long, or even a bit more. I do prefer the Chamonix ones anyways (less weight, nicer look ;-)), but they are hard to come by.
@@MatMarrash The Rollei IR is not available in 8x10, at least not here in Germany. But this might change at some point in the future, as 8x10 seems to get more interest lately. And the Rollei IR is reasonably priced, too. Having seen your shots I think you could do an episode with IR shots alone, maybe not "in the field" but something around contact printing, or how they look with alternative printing (cyanotype and platinum-palladium).
@@c.augustin Sadly with how old this film is they have a very difficult time printing without the help of something like a digital negative. :( Also Rollei IR is only available in up to 4x5" from what I've seen, reducing back will soon be my only way to shoot IR.