I've engineered and installed several compressed air systems for our manufacturing facilities across north America. I would install that air receiver in a place that will allow the heat to come off of it. Compressing air generates a lot of heat and you want to cool the air so the condensate will come out. Speaking of, I would pick up an automatic drain on the tank. They're pretty inexpensive and will save the tank from rusting on the inside, or worse filling up with water and providing no usable capacity. Pipe the incoming from the compressor low and the out to the shop high on the tank to help separate particulate. You might also want to consider running your air receiver and compressor at a higher pressure and regulating the line to the shop down to 90 psi. This effectively increases the capacity of the tank so the compressor can run more intermittent. I'll run the compressor and tank at 125 psi and the plant at 100 or so. With piping losses we'll maintain 90 throughout the building. Good luck! Any questions let me know. I really enjoy your channel!!
An automatic drain valve is a good idea. It needs to have a valve with a fairly large opening so that rust and crud won't plug it up. A strainer in front of the valve isn't a good idea because the strainer plugs up with rust and then the valve doesn't drain. If you don't use an ADV, use a ball valve drain with a fairly large opening and open it all the way when you shut down your air compressor. It will make a lot of noise, but it will keep the rust and moisture out of your tank. Don't forget that your tank needs an appropriately sized and rated pressure relief valve. If you weld on your tank, you will void the approval, so mount it an a way that doesn't require welding to the tank.
@@wgiles51 I've used a Suburban Manufacturing Moisture Minder, a pneumatic-powered drain system that uses a shuttle valve. The upside is that I don't have to use an electric-powered system. Downside is it uses the leader-line's pressure change to control that valve. With a single compressor motor/leader this works very well, not sure how well such a solution would work if the pump head is far from the valve and if ther are multiple pump heads.
What had already been said he is true, noted that there is flanged opening on the tank already that with a bolt on reducing flange with the relief valve npt threaded opening will work fine with out having to weld on the tank. Also seemed to be enough openings/taps already on the tank to accommodate your air line piping as needed. You could also use a smaller air compressor in tandem with your large one in tandem as long as each has it's own check valve. I always liked having large tanks elevated to keep my floor space open. Always seems to be more open space above than where I am working or walking. With the tanks elevated and the compressor/compressors lower the discharge lines to the tank would need a drip leg where the manual drain down valve or auto drain would be installed to remove the moisture from the lines and tank as well. Good luck, love the channel. JJ
I think you'd enjoy a system I worked on. It was a 1 mile long building. It had two screw compressors on the back end with three 2,000 gallon air tanks. Dropped about 15psi at the front end. They later added a large Sullair on the front end. Great comment. Take care.
Ahhh the old horizontal surface storage issue. That’s a tough one, I’ve considered making all my benches at 45 degrees to the floor it would keep them cleaner.
Installing hinges on the forward edge of the workbench and pneumatic rams, to lift the rear of the bench will provide a fast and very effective means to clear you flat surfaces. Just step to the side and open the air supply valve and WA-la! Instant clear workbench! LOL Although, making your way around the front of the bench will become a rather precarious situation, requiring you to be very careful, to prevent personal injury from falling due to the trip hazard resulting from the clearing of the workbench.
Giving up concreting because it's a "younger man's game"? Here's a thought to take you into old age. Up to the age of sixty I could pick up a 10 litre plastic bottle (Jug in American) of water - 10 Kilograms, no problems At age sixty five the bottle was still 10 litres - But now it weighed 22 pounds and seemed heavier. At age seventy the bottle was still 10 litres - But now it weighed 352 ounces and seemed a lot heavier. At age 75 that 10 litre bottle now weighs in at 10,000 grams and it is really heavy. My father and older brother (both long deceased) were both construction carpenters so I love all of your carpentry videos and the blacksmithing is interesting and informative. Thank you and best wishes as you slide into life as a person of the elderly persuasion. By the way, I also live on the West coast - of Australia. Regards Michael Miles
Peace of mind is priceless. I used to service large air compressor systems. The tank should have it's own pressure relief valve, gauge and bleeder. Auto bleeders are nice because large tanks collect lots of moisture. I like the idea of a full shop air system that you can add the large compressor to when needed but you'd only need the large tank plumbed in when running the hammer. Then just open a manual bleeder/drain valve when done. Shop space is gold and the tank should fair well outdoors if covered. Although, something tells me that you already know all of this. 😁
@@jeffreylee7184 he put it inline with the main line to act like an accumulator and not really a storage tank. I hope he shows the removal so we can see how much water it has.
I’ve been an electrician for 20+ years, and emphatically agree with a panel change. FPE lost their UL listing in the 70’s. I cringe every time I see a panel like that. They are dangerous.
Chickens- what started out for us was 6 has grown to about 70 birds plus 2 Guineas. Converted a dog kennel at the back of an RV Port, added lean to, CV closed in more space under the RV Port. My wife manages the "herd". Stand back when she lets them out to free range.
Mount it outside and enclose it. Pipe your air into the shop. Make sure youre able to bleed water out the bottom so to preserve the tank from rust that is caused by condensation in the tank there are electric solenoid valves that you can put on a timer that will bleed it at a set interval. Set it and forget it. Just check that the valve still works from time to time. Always bleed condensation out of your air system. Especially in your neck of the woods lots of moisture in your air.
I have no problem watching any video that you publish..... they all have good information and you can always learn from them. ..... and I appreciate whatever you do ...... I will always continue watching your videos ...... thank you......JJ .....
I can only speak for my own preferences, but as far as getting a shop like this laid out with an optimal workflow (which I'm sure Scott's already considered time and time again), I would move all the storage to a mezzanine level as practical, and open up as much work area on grade as possible. I always end up cursing myself for chewing up floorspace for storage when it could always go vertical. All that headspace is one of the biggest benefits of a building this size. Just one man's opinion.
As a mining engineer, I for once feel useful! The best place for the pressure vessel is as close to the power hammer as you can. Also the largest pipe possible will reduce the flow loss and pressure loss significantly! The rafters and mezzanine are great ideas. For example even if the threads on the tank are 2” sizing up to a 4” after the tank will increase flow to the machine. Compressed air flow when flow is objective is very comparable to a garden hose in that ultimately a small hose limits the supply from the tap due to pressure loss.
Scott deerfan2 is correct. Build a frame above the hammer location to set the tank vertically (smaller footprint) have a down leg for condensate drain. A lot of water will come out of the tank a autodrain is recommended with feeds to the hammers 1 - 2 feet above the drain horizontally. Install check valves with ball valves between compressors and lines, this allows you to take them out of service. I would put a stainless flex line between hard pipe to tools and piping system, this limits vibration to tank and piping. That tank will run 5 paslode framers or 6 hitachi framers at the same time for you carpenters.
As soon as I saw your Federal Pacific panel I gasped. They've started more fires than I care to think about. I've used Square D QO panels for years-they're really good panels. Been watching your channel for some time- love it!
A new Siemens PL panel would be my choice - it's got a copper bus bar and it's pretty cheap, and the breakers are also inexpensive. A new 40 with breakers would be less than $300 and way cheaper than getting new FPE breakers.
I use and install alot of GE panels which you can buy anywhere *Home Depot, Lowes, Ace) as well as the breakers and the cost of the panels and the breakers are cheaper that homelite, Square D, Cuttler Hammer, etc here in Texas. Keep in mind that with CH, Sq D, Ge you cannot go wrong with any one of them. JJ
It would brighten my WORST day to get to listen and view one of your videos. Very sincere thanks, Scott, for being such a stalwart craftsman and generous sharer of your knowledge.
Your chicken coop brings back some memories. About 60 years ago one of my aunts decided she wanted her father to get chicks for an Easter visit with her kids. Instead, my grandfather bought 'juvenile' Bantams, figuring his grandkids couldn't accidentally kill more mature birds. He was right - they couldn't even get close to them, but the got a lot of exercise chasing them around the yard! As it turned out, one of the pullets was a cockeral, and before long he had dozens of chickens, and kept them for about 10 years, until finally foxes got the last of them. He fed them just enough to keep them around - he lived in the country, so they had the run of the place - and I think they mostly lived on insects. Several of the hens nested on the carport, so there are always fresh eggs two steps from the side door. They were small, so as a little kid I could brag to my mother that I had '4 eggs for breakfast'.
I'm a licensed mechanical contractor in Maryland. I service steam boilers, process air compressors and other industrial equipment. They make automatic drains that run on timers to blow condensate out of the pressure vessel. It will extend the life of the tank. You said that vessel was boiler rated it was an explanation tank for a how water boiler? It doesn't have a bladder inside of it does it.
Don't forget to recycle your wood ash into the dirt bath areas of your chickens. The "cooled" wood ash helps the chickens deal with mites. If your summers get too dry a large flock (15 or more) could create an infestation of mites. They get on everyone! Then chickens are not fun anymore. We will keep watching. Hello from deep south Texas!
I am forever proud that a small something I gave hangs in such hallowed ground such is the cave of wonders where craftsmanship and good advice are made great again. - JM, "Old Nancy"
Bend here, been watching for years, and just have the most love and respect for you. Thank you for sharing all this information. Please keep it up, as it is hard to find great mentors for those of us who don’t have them within our circle. I as a gay man, with a degree in tech/design, covering all fields from welding to carpentry struggle to put down roots and a shop. The sad bit is I own the tools, but lack the shop. You’re channel is fantastic. A shop/ warehouse makes the world. My 40 foot school bus transformation with a 3’ roof lift into a ting home has been hard as location for work in OR is very difficult. I would love to have one site to complete the work, but poor subletting has has crippled progress. It’s called a skoolie or schoolie Shop space is needed! I own all the tools but need and in door space in OR I am raising the roof of the whole bus by 2 feet! ❤️
My humble two cents from working with pressure vessels for 27 years. There are regulations that govern the installation and maintenance of pressure vessels. These are easy to find online. Yearly certifications are mandatory. Pressure relief valve or valves, Guage and condensation removal are important aspects. I would put it outside on a small concrete slab and a small roof structure to keep the elements at bay. (Not 100% necessary for the roof). I won't put it in the roof of your shop if I were you. Extra cost, extra risk. I also want to make use of this opportunity to thank you for your channel. I have learned so much from you over the years.
I agree with the assessment on the electrical box. Stab-lok breakers are an insurance hazard, and generally raise premiums, or can lead to policy cancellation, let alone the possibility of fire. Thanks for the updated tour into this aspect of your life. Keep doing what you're doing, because you're obviously doing it right!
An easy sullution for the roof is to run alububble underneathe the sheets. It takes care of insulation and will direct small droplets from condensation away. Wires is spaced 420mm across beams to hold the 1 meter sheet pvc an alu bubble.
Re the "new" air tank, you said it was rated as a boiler. I would check into that as whether it is rated for water pressure or steam (air) pressure. The idea of adding a small electric compressor for daily use compressed air is great, couldn't live without mine. If you plumb both compressors into the same tank, might consider putting check valves between the tank and each compressor . Thanks for the great videos and keep up the good work!!
@@jamesblackham6961 that's a pressure vessel. They usually contain a label on the side which has the ratings. Sometimes both air and liquid pressure ratings.
40 years ago bought an uncertified 82 gallon tank from a salvage yard. Pressure tested it by filling it with 81-3/4 gallons of water, bypassing the pressure shutoff from a portable compressor and installing a 600 psi gauge. Plumbed that into the junkyard tank and pumped it up to 310 psi. It creaked and ticked but held steady over night. After 39 years of constant service it began to ooze a little rusty water at a welded seam. The only burst compressor pressure tank I ever heard of involved a failed pressure shutoff on a little portable unit always left plugged in. When the tank burst it blew the end wall and garage door out of a 2 car garage.
I'm not an electrician, but do have an electronics degree, & spent 7 years as a home inspector. For the electrical panel, you can best assess it's condition by taking Infrared pictures with the cover off and each circuit loaded to 80% of capacity (one circuit at a time). The IR Pictures will easily identify which breakers may be running too hot & creating a fire hazard. Cheap smart phone based IR cameras are available for under $150 & very useful for diagnosing a host of heat related issues. (Also good for checking related electrical connections/boxes/junctions/etc.) A budget alternative is the IR non contact temperature devices in the $25 range at big box hardware stores. Be safe.
I remember when you made that vessel, and being someone that builds vessels I thought it was just fine! That new one will be quite the level above though! Love your shop and all the work you do!
Compressed gases have a lot of energy. Check the nameplate to see what rating it has for gas/air. If it's not clear ask the manufacturer. Most likely the rating for air is half the rating for water to give a higher safety margin. Also take a close look inside and abort if there's any significant corrosion (light surface rust is ok) or evidence of wall thickness loss. Needs a drain and correctly set pressure safety valve, especially if the compressor can deliver a higher pressure than the vessel can hold. I know it sounds like a lot of work for a simple air vessel...
Keep the tank outside, (under cover) it is easier to pipe air than to have a tank in the shop. Dump the MH lights, go with Hibay LEDs, no warm up time. I have changed out all mine to LED and really appreciate the idea that the lights come on instantaneously. I have a 1200' shop, small by many standards, but I "over lit" the shop by about 250% and have come to like the idea that it is bight every day. Especially at 68 years of age. Over the last three years, I have saved the cost of the lights in the electric bill.
Scott - be sure to have an easy/quick way to drain condensed moisture out of that tank. And I’d mount the tank outside *so long as* your winters are mild enough that the condensate will never freeze solid. If not, I’d put it off in a corner somewhere w good drainage access. More later on the multiple compressors feeding it
Primary stress is calculated stress=pressure(psi)*diameter(inches)/{2*thickness)} safe but I would want it a little thicker. Rust is the enemy. Make sure you can remove the condensation.
Like everyone else mentioned, put that giant tank outside for sure. Maybe you can make a little shed for it to keep it dry. I'd also plumb a really easy to use ball valve drain in it. Keep the water out and that setup will last for years. The grand kids will be using it eventually! Nice shop for sure.
We need more men in this world like you! Thank you for spending time educating us about tools yes, but especially about life. I live just south of Eugene and would love to bring a grandson for a shop tour some time? Darrick
Scott, what works best for us in our shop is something similar to your small compressor/large compressor idea for that tank, we have a “small” compressor to maintain the pressure for smaller air tools, but when we have a heavier we have a similar compressor we’ll run only as needed but we’ll shut the smaller compressor off. Our storage tank is mounted standing up outside for to make it easier to drain any moisture out and it’s anchored into a concrete pad
Evapo rust is the best I’ve ever used when it comes to cleaning rust it’s non toxic so it doesn’t harm food ware and it evaporates like it was never there
I also like that stuff. I have a 5 gallon bucket of it on hand at all times. The formulation I have doesn't tend to evaporate off though. I dump it out for re-use and then wash off the rust free items with water, then prep for service.
I'd put both power hammers side by side. rather than back to back. You want the forge in close proximity to the hammer and unless your going to have 2 forge setups, you'll end up walking around the power hammers to use the one on the other side, losing time and heat in the process.
I once ran an air tank of very similar size, but I guess heavier. My suggestions are: first design the water drainage system, whether a bucket or piped auto drain. Mount vertically for smallest footprint and good cooling. Anchor that light vessel strongly. Support the pipe work well. Outside would be good if you're happy to maintain. You will love the smooth delivery from that vessel.
Thanks for the second tour Scott, it's always interesting to see how others lay out their tool shops and what tools you have. You seem to have plenty of roof height, a handy area to build a mezzanine floor for additional storage.
There are lots of reasons that I'd love to, and will I hope, one day visit the Pacific northwest, but your final comment here about a shop tour is right up there with those other reasons now! All the best from Perthshire, Scotland. Josh
We used air to start some very large generators in the FAA. We had one tank per generator, and had six of them. As they were only used for starting the tank had enough capacity to get the diesel generator started. We used a smaller compressor to charge the tank. Your installation is looking at a more continuous air use.
Some informed electrical comments: 1. You should check and see if you can get away with only changing the "guts" of that electrical panel with a bolt on breaker insert from a company like Eaton or Square D. It would save you having to rework the conduit, but it might not be the worth of the cost depending on availability. 2. Re: 2 compressor control I initially thought to comment that you could add an electrical transfer switch to keep the high flow compressor for cycling until I remembered it ran on diesel, making you the controller! Thank you for bringing us into your shop/ second home.
After reading the other comments, I don't have much to add. I would recommend a pressure test of the storage tank using a pressure washer and filling the tank with water. Probably test it to 150% of nameplate rating. I was responsible for the compressed air system and the boilers at work for 25 years and supervised the pressure test of a 6 ft. dia. by 20 ft. long autoclave. I would put the tank outdoors, add an automatic drain for condensate and run 2" piping in to the shop air system.
You might want to look into using some pallet shelves they use at big box stores, they can handle the weight you can get different sizes to make the maximum us of the vertical height of your shop. Storing the stuff you don't use much at the top along with the pressure tank up there leaving it available to get to but still out of the way. Also it will help solve the clutter issue in your shop
Banty's are egg layers for sure. Smaller eggs but, give you more of them. Banty rooster's can be very protective. My shop is usually a disaster, always something sitting somewhere where it don't belong. Put the tank outside, some of those tanks over time, will have weak points and yes, they'll explode due to pressure. Just depends on how well the walls are. One reason the old well tanks were a huge no no to use as air tanks. Constantly expanding and shrinking, weakens them. Great video, cheers :)
Scott, pressure vessel inspector / expert here. The only worry is condensation. As long as there is a way to drain, then both problems involved area avoided. Put the new vessel outside and have a way to drain the condensation. Use 2" or greater pipe.
Put the tank in a corner or out of the way but inside to prevent rust, I would almost use it as a decoration piece, paint it bright red or yellow, take care, be safe, we love these videos!
I would recommend putting an automatic water drain on it to keep tank free from condensation, keep in mind that this system will freeze. I’m not sure if they offer a frost free style on the market but you could put heat tape on it as a remedy if outdoors. That’s a rather large tank for a smaller compressor. Maybe you want to plumb into a common manafold with a isolation valve to just use smaller tank with smaller compressor. Ditch the electric panel ! :) Channel is top notch as always !
P.S. that’s a large tank for most tasks, a smaller compressor can handle most shop stuff with a smaller tank and not spend so much time to fill up. Utilize common manifold to switch back and forth easily
I worked maintenance at a bakery for 45 years, we ran sch 40 galvanized pipe under the cement floor in some areas without problems until it became a problem years later due to someone hitting it with a drill and rusting out in anotherarea, the entire run was cut, plugged and a new line was run on the ceiling, I would put the tank up high out of the way, hang it from the ceiling, a tank that large is going to need a large air compressor to fill it, if it isn't sized correctly your compressor will never shut off
I've worked in petrochemicals for years. We would never put a pressure vessel inside a building unless no other choice. So I recommend you put it outside with a pressure relieve valve. I lover your channel! good luck.
My vote for the air receiver location would be up. Someplace in the rafters, or on some sort of support framework. Second place is outside. It wouldn't be too difficult to add an enclosure to protect it from the elements on the exterior of the building, and it wouldn't take up inside space. Least desirable would be inside the shop at floor level, taking up your limited shop space.
Chickens are the ultimate animal to have around. I'm not much of a pet guy, but my wife is! We've been scaling up the chicken flock this year. Great to have eggs, fun for everyone.
Since it is a certified pressure vessel, it should have an ASME stamp somewhere on it. That will tell you the maximum working pressure and when it was tested. It looks like a great vessel and you are lucky to have it. Consider using bolted flanges to blank off the two main nozzles. There should also be a minimum temperature on the vessel tag as well. Good luck.
All of your thoughts about the air was fine. Any steel with good welds was going to work, and would not be the point of failure. Both compressors to the new tank will be fine, but i would be sure to have shut off valves on all entries and exits, and using the smaller compressor most the time for costs to run it and replacement later if need be. Best wishes
Add a SAFETY VALVE TO BLOW OFF EXCESSIVE PRESSURE and a BOTTOM BLOW DRAIN VALVE to remove moisture. Railroad engines use automatic ones and semi trucks use a D2 valve pressure governor valve's high pressure port to trigger the bottom blow to remove moisture.
I have had many bantam chicks. They are a lot of fun and the good part if you let them roam in the yard is that they are small and do not ruin the wifes flowers like bigger birds. Some of them have real personalities. remember if you make a roost for them in the pen they like a round pole and not a 2x4. Enjoy
As soon as you got close to that box, i could tell it was a FPE box. An electrician friend told me once, they were good for one thing, burning houses down.
Yours is a typical busy, multi-talented man's shop! We all have the same problem of not being able to get rid of stuff that " we might use someday".!!! ha ha. good luck with it! If you mount the tank up on the crane it might cast a giant shadow on a critical workspace. Could it go above the chicken coop? It looked like there was some room there, although access might be awkward. I agree with other comments that outside is good for things of this nature. Love all your candid filming!! Thanks
Certified scuba tech here (smaller vessels but much, much higher pressures - 300 bar), put the pressure vessel somewhere easily accessible for inspection purposes. Even if you don't keep up with the legally mandated inspection routine in your region, being able to keep an eye on the condition of your pressure vessel for your own safety and those around you
Mount outside, no reason to use up precious cubit feet, but even if you buried it and it ruptured, the mass of the soil around would easily absorb the energy
Take note of the suggestions from others here, for piece of mind a hydrostatic test is a bare minimum for a pressure vessel of unknown origin. I’m sure the nameplate was removed, for liability reasons. You can not assume anything about that vessel. The energy stored in that volume of compressed air not to be taken lightly. I’m a metallurgist and SME in pressure vessel failure analysis.
I'd say put the big tank outside. It's a beast. One thing that might be obvious, but wasn't to me: make sure you set up an automatic bleeder for that tank. We had bleed offs on the main compressor tank, but we didn't think of it for this one since it was after the dryer. The amount of moisture we collected over a year of constant use was unbelievable.
It's always good to sit and have you visit with us on these video's Scott. I really like the idea of hanging the air vessel onto the shop crane. I would also suggest that when you pipe it you put some bypass valves in so you can combine it with the smaller tank or isolate it for just the power hammer use. No need to fill the large one up if your just pumping up a tire or doing little stuff. Also make sure it has a drain valve. Love those grandpa shots.
Having worked on big compressors, I am a big fan of giving them their own room. A simple concrete block structure where you can land power and pipe the air in is my choice. Bring the pipes in at the high point of your air system and give yourself a couple drain valves to allow moisture out in the AM when you start the beasty up. Leave a hole for an exhaust fan in the block, and give yourself some vents down low. Try to control temperature and filter the incoming air. Big 2" furnace filters are cheap. Your pressure vessel will love you long time. And while the Chambersburg might not call for it, an air line oiler can keep your tools a lot happier with the only regular maintenance need being to top up the oil reservoir here and there. We used Marvel Air Tool Oil when I worked at a tire shop, and later maintained said shop. Big expensive tire changers required lubrication and seizing one up was looked down on. Don't mount the tank up high. Armies learned quickly that detonating a bomb above ground provides the most blast effect. If your tank should fail with you in the shop, having it overhead would be a really bad idea.
Putting golf balls in the laying boxes can help the chickens to start laying eggs. Also, I think you should put the new tank outside so you don’t use up shop space.
We just got rid of our Federal Pacific circuit breaker panel. The power surge protector for our computer did its job and saved our computer and TV from being burned up but the breaker panel never tripped and burned the surge protector up. Happy to have the F.P. panel gone.
A tank like this should be placed close to the compressor. You'll have LOTS of water in the air. The tank needs to be able to be drained - it will also act to cool the air down as you are running tools.
Scott deserves every ounce of success that he has and will come his way in the future. Ive been here since 20k subs and very pleased to see the channel growth. Nice job guys.
Your storage air tank is being used as a accumulator for the power hammer. I'd mount it as close to the power hammer as safely as possible. Personally I'd mount the tank up above. Your floor space is your most important tool you have, keep your floor clear as possible!
If you are putting two compressors in parallel, make sure you have some kind of valve to block one from backfeeding the other. I did an install long ago which was a medium sized kaseser rotary screw which was for a machine shop running a bunch of VMCs and the boss had a car fab area in the rear where we installed a 5hp triple stage piston pump which was his old/backup compressor. The kaeser was set to run HELLA flow at 90 psi and the piston pump would run up to like 110-120 psi. The piston pump could run the line pressure high enough that the kaeser would do weird things, so we installed a ball valve in the middle of the circuit (they were on opposed ends of a 150ft long line of copper and each side had a tank and that fixed the problems. You could probably find a check valve that would block flow backwards into each pump and just install it right near the outlet, assuming you can get one that is high enough flow...
It would be pretty neat to strap that air tank to the ceiling. Less piping the better. It would probably be easier to run pipe from the roof down to the compressor. Very cool! Love the video!
I am a dry cleaner and laundry the tank you got was a water heater they work with live steam from a boiler and return steam it has plenty of strength . Outside covered would be fine it will build a lot of condensation so just blow it down every day . The good thing is it was ment to hold water.
way too cool hen house, what a great way to keep your younger family members involve in general participation in what is becoming the, "Family Place" inclusive of the cozy wood stove...great to see that you got plans for the soul of your clan...good stuff, txs for sharing
Definitely put that sucker outside. Maybe build a compressor house off the side of your shop. Soundproofed, just dedicated for generating shop air. Keep everything neat and tidy and in one place in place in case it has a Very Bad Day.
i really like the giant air tank i think it should be hung from the ceiling and if you have space get maybe a 30 gallon air compressor for general use in your shop it sounds like a great idea
