Hi Bill, Instead of measuring, use a small piece of the bottom plate to check your fit. Good to see some progress with you and Dillon working together. Hope you get it closed in before the weather turns.
Bill with the overhead door you can put a wall mounted door opener with the track less than 4 inches from the wall if you want the header at 10 feet tall with a foot of upper wall to run wires for a exterior light and if you park a tractor with a snowblower at the overhead door inside the shop and snow is crotch high you are going to need a 36 inch wide by 82 inches tall with a paddle style handle and key deadbolt right hand in swing man door at the current northwest corner of the existing shed that way when you walk in you have no visual blind spots and nobody can hide behind the door and if you park your truck inside doing a oil change you can then enter and exit the shop with a straight path to the back door and deck without squeezing between your truck and the overhead door your truck is 110 inches wide with the towing mirrors fully extended which is roughly 9 feet 2 inches with them retracted it’s 105.9 inches wide which just is roughly 8 feet 10 inches with the mirrors folded in roughly 7 feet wide if you have the overhead door opening start flush with the northeast corner of the shed and get 10 feet wide your golden and then if you want to continue using your current heaters at the northeast corner put a 36 inch walk through where you have your hose and electric reel and turn that section into your tool storage room freeing up floor space on the new side it sounds like you are not doing the second overhead door for a drive through style and if you want to go out to the red container putting a 36 wide by 82 inch tall man door left hand in swing and want to run a extension cord or air line out the door your not walking around the building giving you straight sight line and the cord or hose don’t get pinched also if you paint something or spray degreaser you have cross draft ventilation cause your on limited power to the shed
I dislike those wedge concrete anchors, when I was setting up my 2 post lift, I had a few anchors pull out while torquing. Now I only set wedge anchors in epoxy and torque after the epoxy dries. Much better in my opinion.
@@billstmaxx J bolts are the best but you have to set them when you're pouring the slab. What you're using will be fine. The way to go is, if the slab is four or six inch and you drill down through the slab, and then put your bolts in so they extend below so when you tighten it, the wedge is against the bottom of the slab.
Ok Bill clean your shop! It looks just like mine!!!! Strangely enough I’ve used those anchors for years, never had a problem. You need to drill the hole a little deeper. I put electrical tape on the drill bit for the depth, then I don’t have to check depth! Much easier building in RUST! The new shop is gonna be great!
