With the latest iCarsoft POR V2 update (33.50) - I am able to do the ABS bleed procedure with my 718. I'm really impressed that they continue to update the software for this unit.
Just one thing, by adding brake fluid up to the max level after having bled your brakes, the day you replace your old pads with new (thicker)pads , brake fluid may overflow your reservoir…so i would not fill it to max with used brake pads . For the rest interesting tool!
Great video and super helpful! Minor correction for the benefits of viewers: There are two bleeder valves on the brake calliper. Brake fluid must be drained at both bleeder valves. Always bleed the outer bleeder valve first.
Nice video. You should always bleed the outer bleeder valve first not how he did it. -During the bleeding process second fitter must operate brake pedal slowly -only after remove hydraulic or master cylinder you should bleed with PIWIS. 1bar pressure not enough. pushed all the way to 1.8-2 bar
Great video - had the same issue attempting an ABS bleed with that unit on my 997.2. The function was supposed to be supported but it never worked. Had the dealership do a bleed for me instead.
Love the video, only chiming in because I’ve heard both sides of the argument; when you get into the ABS on track and the valve actuates, it’s doing the same thing. A conventional bleed at the caliper remedies it once that gets passed the valve. Again, love the video and I’m only chiming in because I’ve listened to people explain the reasoning incorrectly! Motul rocks and so does the 718 GT4. Keep the vids coming!
Thanks for watching! One thing about that argument is...how do you know all wheels had ABS applied? I'm sure the fronts will but the rears are sometimes questionable? A question I really don't know the answer to, but it's what I think about.
Thanks for the video. I’ve always used the local indy for brake bleeds. Haven’t felt confident enough to touch a major safety system such as the brakes especially since I use mine on track as well.
ABS bleeding is very finicky. If the pressure drops below the recommended level, or if the battery runs below a certain threshold, the process will fail and you have to start all over again. I used a PIWIS system and it still took me 4-5 tries to get all the conditions exactly right for it to bleed all 4 lines successfully.
I am starting to notice that factory service manuals for modern cars require a second person to pump the brake pedal WHILE the power/ pressure bleeder is connected and the bleeder nipple open, In other words the classic pump and hold method is added on the regular pressure bleeding process which is confusing, I always thought that pressure bleeding does not require any movement from the master cylinder, and that two person pump and hold sequence is only for the classic manual bleeding process, but factory service manuals are very specific about it , what's your thoughts on this?
Unfortunately I haven’t seen the specific manual procedure for this car but I occasionally feel like my pressure bleeds aren’t doing the job I think they are. You may be on to something!
only thing i gotta say is; you MUST use some secondary jacks because those primary jacks of yours HAVE FAILED many times per the various complaints, you don't want your baby on the deck with no wheels attached..... 🤠
Excellent presentation and top quality content and production quality! Really appreciate the info & product information, that was especially helpful! Keep up the great work!
Enjoyed the video. I also have a 981 GT4 and have done my own brake bleeds with the Motive bleeder. I have never done the ABS bleed but have done the clutch slave bleed which is somewhat of a pain to reach the nipple. I asked a tech at a dealership if they do the clutch slave cylinder during a normal bleed and he said they didn't. I suspect there is not enough old fluid in either location to cause a problem if done regularly and properly. Who knows for sure though?
You are right when you said "if done regularly". When your tech said they don't, I wonder if that means ever. When do they flush the clutch? It doesn't not sound like regularly.
the clutch bleeder screw is plastic and not worth stripping to bleed, and it's such a pain to get to. no matter what the tech has it will take to long to bleed it right so they never bother to do it.
Thanks for watching. I explained u see what conditions the service manuals recommend an ABS bleed. I showed that you need to use an OBD tool to activate the ABS module. My tool didn’t work due to its own limitations. But I’ve given you all the info you need
You’re welcome! I’ll be sure to give the music feedback to my 11 yr old daughter. She was really proud of making it but she also needs to get used to criticism from the public.
The iCarsoft tool won't reset an airbag light if the underlying problem hasn't been resolved. Don't buy the tool thinking it's going to magically fix problems. It's a useful tool but it has limits.
I have always heard, as to caliper order, outside, then inside....I see on the video, inside to outside. Hmmmm. I'll get to the bottom of this. You have brake fluid in the Motive bleeder as opposed to using the Motive simply to apply pressure. I see 2 big advantages this way, you'll know how much fluid you are beginning with, and you most likely will never bleed the reservoir dry...Another good point when using the Motive as a reservoir, be certain to check the master cylinder brake fluid level post bleed. This weekend a pal and I tried using a scanner that required 29 PSI....we were doing it dry...the Motive kept losing pressure and the scanner approach to both bleed and flush the ABS didn't work. Also, the scanner prescribed a strange (to me) caliper bleed order: LR, LF, RR, RF.....this goes against what I have done in the past. Lastly, your video was so informative, that I felt that a little contribution was in order. "Yoy can't get something for nothing!" Nice job.....
@@mschacht69 I had the same issue with inside vs outside first. I've watched so many videos on the process from Porsche certified mechanics to the manufacturers of the calipers and neither agree on the order to bleed them. The only thing that is consistent is the order to bleed brakes during a conventional brake bleed. RR, LR, RF, LF. The sequence for an ABS bleed is always different.
