We always recommend soft close hinges to clients that are spraying units. If you can supply and fit yourself it's an add on to the job, also new handles. We are getting into resin countertops next .one stop shop.👍
Just had a job where what I communicated and what the client heard weren't the same, and once the cabinets had a coat of paint on them they weren't happy. Since the doors were still down and everything set up the fix was fairly easy. I've decided now that I need to find some spare doors and spray up some samples to bring to potential clients to show exactly what different things are and how much each step is.
I use a crown stapler 1/4" in the back of the doors. 2 per side on horizontal & 2-4 on vertical. I have checked on them every year & now 7 years strong.
I love painting cabinets my favorite jobs to do did a few this winter I would only do them if I could. I didn’t used to caulk them, but the last couple I did I did caulk I like the way they look better. I always use Ben Moore advanced satin amazing finish
I live in grants Pass Oregon…great climate here. I really want my cabinet doors caulked and am watching your channel for information in understanding the whole process. I like it better but worry about the cracking issue…I have ugly 80’s oak cabinets that I want painted. Do you think it would be ok in my situation. I hear so much back and forth on this issue. I don’t mind paying for it, but don’t want issues down the road. Thanks for your channel…it is so informative and it’s great you are promoting this as a trade. You guys work so hard…such an art to what you do and much appreciated.
I have a dropped ceiling with that fiberglass looking paneling. I caulked every seam and rolled 3 coats of Killz and it looks so much better and seamless. Bought some time on a reno, saved money, but still satisfied with the overall look.
Hello If we imagine that a client wants a solid wood wall but at the same time leaves a smooth and flawless finish, what would you do? Would you caulk an entire wall of wood that will move in time just to accept its whim? The same happens with solid wood doors of various elements, that door composition is created so that the movements of the wood that will occur throughout the year and that will depend a lot on the climate of the area make the set always look the same . When making a 5-piece door, in my opinion, they should be painted piece by piece before being assembled, leaving bevels at the joints so that everything will always look the same. If instead the door is assembled first and then painted, cracks will always appear at the joints because each piece of wood has its own movement depending on its heterogeneous composition. If you also want an already assembled one to look like a solid object, it implies even more problems because either the putty fails, or the paint fails or the perfect filling of a joint fails in such a tedious job. If you want a door to appear solid then it has to be made of a homogeneous material that moves uniformly in view of climate change and that material exists as is mdf and there are paints to which flexibilizer is added so that the paint never presents cracks that when final is the look that the client wants. It is the same case of the bumpers of the vehicles that are made of flexible plastic. They want their doors made of pure oak but they want to see them as if they were a homogeneous piece of plastic, is that design? Well, that is not a whim to which you can never comply with quality and that is where you as an expert must establish that there are things that should not be done, since if they are done at some point they will fail. regards Gerardo
How much more do you charge to do the caulking? For example, for kitchen cabinets that you quoted $10,000 that doesn't include caulking, then if the customer said, I now want you to caulk them all, how much additional would you charge? Rough ball bark is fine.
We almost always caulk our panels and have never had a problem! Clients we work for always prefer making that black crack disappear regardless of the outcome and I think the same
I've already painted my cabinets and some old hardware holes are showing through the paint. What would be the best way to cover those up? Could I caulk over them and touch-up?
I order new cabinet doors in 2020 and had them factory painted. My problem since they are shaker style the frame part have very small crevices at the bottom where crumbs etc fall into making them very hard to keep clean. Shall I caulk them, thought about wood filler but then would have to repaint. The doors are beautiful and very well made but I'm disappointed this wasn't handle at the factory.
People rarely talk about quality of caulking when on this subject. Caulk is rated on flexibility. Cheap caulk might move 10% of the bead put down where a better caulking can move 700%+
YeH I had no idea. I just assumed any caulk would work! I just grab caulk from the dollar store and I buy all my paint from Sherwin Williams and typically the Emerald, which is the more expensive. I really though caulk was just caulk. Good to know though.
what does BID mean ??? also i want to paint my walls and i dont like matt i like a sheen do i get satin wood oil base as thats what my friend has suggested ...by the way im gonna learn a lot from you xxxxxxxx
@idahopaint could you provide a link to your store or Tower Tech’s website of the specific caulk you recommend for cabinets? Also do you have a tool you like to spread the caulk?
I have redone probably 200 sets of cabinets in my 17yrs of flips. I have NEVER had a caulk failure. That being said I do have a method. Sand,(clean) Prime, (oil base) (let it cure out!) Light sand, ( fine grit) (clean well) Caulk (dap Acrilic latex plus silicone) (not fast dry as it needs time to set itself into the pores of primer) I caulk all doors panals. They really don't need to float if caulked over primer. It insures bonding. I use a bondo for dings. Many other options. Don't let the oil base in primer fool you. Latex anything will stick to oil PRIMER ONLY.
Some stile and rail cutters roll that inside edge on the panel groove to soften the look. I don't caulk and I'm not bothered by the line. I've seen doors here in Minnesota that were caulked, and within a year they developed cracks--not a pretty sight.
My cabinets are painted white but now I see uneven openings in the paint along seems. I either need to fill that with caulk or some kind of puddy then paint because it looks dumb
you know I find it very interesting that you made a comment about the aqua coat and being able to see the grain and the darkness so if I understand this correctly it used the aqua coat and that gets rid of the grainy ness and the dark spots or are the dark spots still visible after the aqua coat The reason why I ask is because even if they are I'm okay with because I use Bin primer. And my experience of using that primer it does it covers very well so I don't see any of the dark shadows I'm hoping I am understanding everything that you're saying here if there's a way you can clarify and reply to this comment I would greatly appreciate it
I have doors just like that. and I caulked them I didn't like the big air gap that was on the spot where the wood is connected to the door. It just looks bad when you paint them. There is no reason to fill in the door wood grains just to have that big ugly black line around the doors.
Climate for me is the biggest factor. Caulking in Cleveland Ohio where I live is a bad idea. Can be super dry and have up to 90% humidity. Very sporadic weather
The panels are designed to move slightly so they shouldn't be caulked but some customers want it. I explain why they are designed to not be caulked but sometimes the customers want them caulked anyway. No problem. You have to be flexible.
If you’re painting an existing set of cabinets that have never been painted, like the ones they’re working on here, then yes, you definitely want to caulk the panels. If you dont, the paint will bridge and look like crap. When you do this, you have to be aware what finish you’re using, as some of the newer 1k products dry so hard they may crack as the caulking continues to flex with weather. And btw Idaho painter, that grain filler product takes way too much time and effort to apply. They’re is a much much much better way
Living in the northeast I absolutely do not caulk cabinets. I won’t take the job if it’s requested because I know it will fail. Cracked caulk is not pretty
Sometimes I gotta bang the panels to see if I can save myself by NOT caulking. Cabinets suck now. Railings n doors are much more exciting, difficult, skillfully, and non profitable 👍
I must say I have been painting 20 years. I have never seen anyone caulk like this. Looks like more of a spackle. What a pain in the rear end. I would have them done in 3 minutes a door with a caulk gun. No way would I play with that mess lol.
