Sikaflex Self-Leveling Sealant is used to seal horizontal expansion joints in concrete and cementitious slabs such as: -Driveways -Garages -Sidewalks -Balconies -Pavements -Terraces -Warehouses -Factories -Civil Structures -Plazas
My advice for the do-it-yourselfers after applying on my sidewalk/driveway joints: Use wide painters tape and mask off on each side of the joint to avoid drips/runs touching the finished concrete surface and messy cleanups.
Used this product for years on basement relief joints. The best way I have found for a near flawless joint is to first clean the top surface and inside the crack itself. Then press the apropriate diameter backing rod into the crack being sure it is completely sealed as this filler will surely find any holes and seep lower into the crack causing sinkage. Make sure you have at least a 1/4" depth, for cracks up to 1/4" wide 3/8" to 1/2" is better if the crack is wider. Then take 3" wide blue painters tape and stick it down good centered over the crack, then run a sharp razor knife down both sides leaving a fully open masked slot. Fill the crack a little higher then the surface. Wait about 15 mins and recheck for any settling and add more sealer if necessary. Take a small 1" putty knife and drag it over the slot wiping any excess off the knife as you go. Wait another 15 min and peel the tape off one side at a time in a upward motion and put it directly into a box or trash bin. Clean AF install every time guaranteed !
Is Sikaflex Self-Leveling Sealant paintable? I want to use this product to fix my old/cracked pool expansion joints and finally paint my concrete pool deck. I want to make sure once I fix my joints I will be able to paint the deck including the joints. Thanks
I used this on some smaller cracks on my garage floor and it worked great. I just started painting the floor and I noticed that when I paint over it, it gets tacky and doesn't dry any suggestions?
Sika, my mason used this to seal cracks in the concrete floor of my shop. They used a chaser wheel on a grinder first and then applied the Sikaflex. In some areas they applied too much and it overflowed out if the groove a little bit. My question is, can I shave the excess material off with a new razor blade or sand it off?? I’d prefer to only have it in the groove, level with the rest of the floor. Also, how long should I wait before doing this and how long until I can drive cars over it? Thanks!
Would be great to know if we are able to sand this product after cure. They brag about it being flexible so I don’t see a Diamond blade cutting it well….
So I overfilled cracks on my floor with the expectation it would self level and sink in completely, I was correct, however, in some areas there are raised potions and the substance is rubbery almost, I was anticipating I could go through with a grinder and grind it level, but I am now questioning if I did this right, how do I level this stuff post-cure?
I have seen people using something like toilet paper to put on top of the new sealant before fully cured between two concrete slaps to protect people from stepping on the sealant and making footprint all over the concrete slaps. Do you know what that paper called? Thank you so much.
Sika says it's paintable. Can I paint over Sikaflex Construction Sealant? Posted April 24, 2023 by Sika Expert Sikaflex Construction Sealant and all of the Sikaflex polyurethane sealants are paintable after cure. Curing typically takes 5 to 7 days, depending on temperature and humidity. Sika has found that oil, water, and rubber based paints work best, however, we always recommend testing a small, inconspicuous area for compatibility. Avoid using paints that are silicone-based paints or have a high solvent content. Consult the paint manufacturer for compatibility recommendations.
Is this appropriate under epoxy/flake floors in wide expansion joints? I'm worried it will be TOO soft/flexible. The expansion joints are rounded with the top opening about 5/8". Any thoughts?
This product is fine in a saw cut or expansion joint, but I caution you putting an epoxy coating over the sealant. Epoxy coatings are not intended to shrink or flex and putting epoxy over the sealant opens up the possibility of the epoxy weakening and or cracking over the joint when it expands and contracts. The surest way to avoid this would be to apply this product after the epoxy coating is applied and cured, even though it won't be seamless with the epoxy coating.
I wish Sika would give more information, especially on their website. I'd like to know if it is wise to put a layer of sand so there is no space below the backer rod. Dear Sika a lot of homeowners need these details.
You can 100% sprinkle sand over the wet sealer. It helps for color match, texture, and will make it last longer as a added layer of wear and UV protection.
@@luckysevenairammo1217They're asking if they can put sand below the backer rod in case the crack is deeper than the bottom of the rod. I would assume polymeric sand might be good because it hardens/cures with initial watering.
I had that problem, and I stuck a small round stone about the size of the crack, at the lower end that came up higher than the crack. But the self leveling product is for horizontal use, with no slope.
I did my driveway and sidewalk with your self leveling sealant a number of years ago and now it is all deteriorated from the UV rays of the sun. At first it looked grate but now it all has to be replaced. Every where I see this stuff in expansion joints it show a lot of shrinkage and cracking. Why can't you put an additive in it to resist the UV rays?
I was looking for something self-leveling, that you could pour in there even if you needed to do it in more than one application to allow for drying, I have a gap that's about a quarter inch wide, but two to two and a half inches deep inside of a shower stall. they screwed up when they did the tiling, they should have done the floor first and come back a couple of days later to do the walls, not do the walls and do the floor last. They left a deep joint doing that, that has eroded and would not have happened, if the walls were done on top of the floor.
