In the future I expect a book by you called "experimental film photography" or something with the best pictures taken during those crazy experiments and the second it comes out I'm going to own one!! Nice work!
This stuff isn't a "new" film stock per se. It's repackaged Kodak Aerocolor aero film. Buying it in bulk and re-rolling it in standard 35mm rolls is wildly popular in Russia for whatever reason, and it has cropped up a few times in the past under a few different names. I shot it once in 2016 as "Svema Color 125." Definitely a unique look. Agfa Aviphot is another aero stock that used to get repackaged a lot, but it's been out of production since 2004 or so, and old frozen stock is drying up. I used to shoot it as "Rollei Digibase CN200" quite a bit back in the day. The lack of an orange base was always quite striking.
I just finished a roll TODAY of SantaColor 100 (which, as I learned 10 minutes ago, is probably the same film as Silberra Color 100) with the intention of processing in E-6, and I did overexpose it two stops (EI 25)... little did I know it would only make my life harder and my photos worse... Loved the look of bleach bypass in this film, by the way. Thanks for these inspiring wacky experiments!
I actually really liked the bleach bypass look and the cross processing. Haven't seen others bleach bypass as I too mainly shoot b&w. Very cool results!
The "Silberra" film is almost certainly either a Kodak or Agfa aerial maskless color negative film, cut down and rebranded. The lack of the color mask easily explains why these results show less true, less saturated colors. The color mask improves separation at exposure, leading to much better colors. Aerial film lacks this mask, to make it more "readable" directly from the negative, but it makes it less suitable for regular color photography on the ground.
These negatives look pretty much like ones produced by Kodak Aerocolor IV 2460. Aerocolor is lacking integral color mask layer, thus producing more of a transparent and not so brown-hued negative, also, thinner one.
I'll have to pick some up and try shooting it as a slide but with a 81a or 81b filter and see if it'll look more traditional slides. Or possibly even try using a CPL filter. Having just picked up 30 some 120 rolls of Velvia 100 for near the price of a slightly used kidney, I'd love to try something possibly cheaper.
The fact it did so well as a slide film makes me want to get some. I do wonder how long Silberra's color line will last, given they're all "limited edition", while Silberra's not being fully clear if this is just an old bunch of film, or something still being made today (Kodak Aerocolor, maybe?). I love shooting slides, I don't love the price of slide film, and while Silberra Color films are not terribly cheaper, I'd happily save a few bucks by shooting it as E6 film for stuff I can't justify using Provia, Velvia or Ektachrome for.
As i read on russian website of the shop directly connected to the people behind Silberra, they are going to continue production of that line of film, in case of demand. First limeted edition film is over (only 2000 rolls were made or so), but where are second or third production butch already in stock. And, as i guess, demand is high enough for continuation.
Still hasn't tried it, despite the fact it is literally produced in my city. Also it's good to know it's such well suited for cross process, thanks for the video. Guess, it will be my next roll:)
Different color negatives give different casts in E6. Some have yellow, but quite a few have blue, cyan or green cast and there's usually some curve crossover. The negative mask, mostly salmon, is visible usually only in blown highlights. Two stops overexposure its way to high for much of negs I've tried in E6. I guess this idea comes from trying to save shadow detail but this will fail anyway.
how about a video about turning a color negative into a positive by taking a picture of it with negative film, like one with a clear base or proper filtering, to get a positive image. I know that Kodak 2383 doesn't work for that (tried it), but I don't know of too many other stocks that are internegative or interpositive films. I want to take my negatives and get a "slide" akin to what they do with motion pictures.
I've attempted that before with meh results. But I think it would be worth revisiting with this film stock. It might make some interesting photos. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u7LaFSwB07E.html
@@atticdarkroom I was looking at my roll of 2383 and I noticed there was edge markings, but backwards, it reads * 2383 562 205 1 20 KODAK 12 2004 D, so it's obviously expired, and the fact that they are mirrored may mean it may have to be exposed backwards.
That's a really good question. Most "normal" E6 film cross processed in C41 comes out extremely contrasty and heavily skews green/yellow. But I wouldn't be surprised this was some oddball emulsion too. It's definitely something to think about.
@@atticdarkroom Really the cast in cross processed slide is only relative to standard scanning/printing settings. The objectively existing thing is contrast and curve crossover.
Сейчас (на момент написания комментария) проявил пленки silberra color 100 и 50. Когда достал из баченка Paterson негативы, извините, немного прихуел... Синие негативы!!!! Аааа, я поймал панику, думал где же я ошибся при проявке???? Вроде нигде... Температуру держал 24 градуса ± 0.5, химия для проявки уже была проверена на kodak gold, и там все вышло очень хорошо.... А оказывается у них "розовая подложка"... Фууууух.... Жду когда высохнет пленка чтоб отсканировать 😄
You cant redscale b&w film. It only works because color film has multiple dye layers. With b&w you just end up with a flipped image. But developing redscale in b&w is really interesting. I wonder if it'll have the same or similar effect as shooting through a red filter. I'll have to try this. Thanks for the suggestions!
@@atticdarkroom I did a bit of researching and I came across a forum on Flickr talking about redscale BW film (c41 BW film) and I saw a guy said who said that shooting backward on BW film (possibly high iso film, such as Ilford Delta 3200), and using aluminum foil on the film pressure plate leading to a similar Infrared film result. I don't know man. Maybe, you should try it, it looks like a very interesting (Aka dumb) idea. Putting aluminum foil on the film pressure plate?? ( maybe try it with normal then redscale or trichrome it) Thank you so much for answering my dumb comment.
I've heard of people putting foil on the pressure plate, and its something I definitely want to try. Thanks for reminding me, I'll have to try it soon.
It's not too difficult once you get the hang of it. I'd suggest trying it on a test roll in the light before using a real roll. Or if you're just interested in 120 redscale, Lomo sells 120 redscale. From my experience redscale pretty much looks the same regardless of emulsion (with the exception of weirdo emulsions like Lomo Purple)
