I'm on my second bottle. As an all weather commuter, I'm super impressed. The old cap/applicator is much better than the current one, so I moved it from the first bottle to the second one.
I'm riding across Canada in June/July and after lots of research I've decided to use this lube. I may have to purchase another new chain en route but I'm hoping this will prevent too much wear on my new cassette and chain rings.
I love the sound of that! I hope you enjoy it very much. It should be a great choice. Small enough bottle to carry with you. And yes should keep the chain running for longer. Might be worth bringing a small chain checker tool with you if you have the space just so you know when it will need a new chain.
Where I think synergetic’s benefits really shine is actually in the place where it’s probably used the least, vintage bikes. Due to the benefits of such a high quality lubricant making parts last longer, it really should be used where parts are scarcer. It’s worth it to totally strip old drivetrains of their old lube and use this stuff. I’ve done it in a couple of my old bikes and been really satisfied so far.
Happy to switch back to lube from Silca's wax drop lube. Wax is probably better in terms of friction loss in paper, but it is too fragile against tough environments. Water can wash off wax easily and wax tend to stick to every thing including your chainring, cassette, pully wheels and etc... A lube like synergetic that don't attract too much dirt is such a nice thing. And the greatest benefit is that it is dead silent... while waxed chain is only quiet for a few hundred meters.
I personally find that the hot melt solves the issues of the drip in wax. It stands up a lot better than any wet lube in wet weather. But, caveat, you do have to dry the chain off after, otherwise the outer surface will rust as there is little wax here. Wax is waterproof and hydrophobic after all. For the wax sticking to your components, once again I find the hot melt does a lot better here than the drip on wax. I have to scrub it off only once a year from my components. You do want some wax on the cassette and chain ring as I find this reduces the sound of the drive chain a bit. The friction wears the wax off itself and then the new waxed chains puts fresh wax on the components making it somewhat self cleaning.
@@cyclingunboxed Hot melt is still too much for me. I found wax is noisy mostly because wax itself is non-liquid, so once it is squeezed out of the chain nodes, it stays outside and doesn't flow back. It's understandable that hot melt won't make the chainring and casette a mess because the reason that wax would stick on them is that freshly applied wax would stay on these parts and eventually dry on them. Another feature I absolutely hate is that it flakes so much, ruining my floor so much that I almost stopped using trainer at home because cleaning the floor takes for ages and wax spots are far more annoying than oil spots... you can't wip them off easily because they sticks to the floor. And if you really apply some force, they will be spreaded all over the floor... gosh, such a nightmare. I found it difficult to justify for less than 1% of mechanic loss but multiples times more hassles...
Even if the lube lasts ages, do you pick up grit etc on the chain that can directly etch and wear it down? So do you need to clean the chain thoroughly more often than you'd otherwise need to if it was solely for the purposes of just re-lubricating?
I would recommend using this lube just like you do any other, clean as regularly and as deep as you would a normal chain lube. It’s benefits are decreased chain friction which in turn decreases wear of the chain. Especially compared to other wet lubricants on the market. It will pick up dirt and bring it into the chain like any other wet lubricant but because all the lube on the outside is wiped off after you apply it (wipe off with cloth), less dirt should stick and get on the inside. If you are worried about dirt then I would highly recommend waxing your chain instead. Unless you are riding in wet conditions every ride, Or extreme wet muddy conditions then the wax is the way forward. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5t_fDPkqN-8.html I hope that helps!
In your tests in this video, you did ride several hundred miles through winter to test if the lube wore out without reapplication. What was your cleaning regime during that time? I presume you wiped the outside of the chain regularly, but did you avoid having to do a deep clean which presumably would've washed the Silca out? And did you do that just for the purposes of the video, or do you think that schedule was about right for real life for you, if that makes sense?
I rode to work every day with the chain lube last year, sunshine or rain. Cleaning wise. Yes if it looked dirty generally just wiped the outside. Re applied roughly every 500k. Chain noise started to increase at 400k so I would recommend re lubing then. If I was cleaning the bike I use the park tool cyclo chain cleaner with de greaser and 2-3 run throughs depending on how much it had rained. If I had to say on average i cleaned every 1500km. I hope that’s enough details but if not feel free to ask more!
@@cyclingunboxed So just so I'm clear, wiped after each ride with a microfiber cloth? add fresh lube on top of the old (no degreasing) at 400-500km? and do a full degrease and re-apply lube at 1500km?
Hello :) after apply there's a time to wait before riding or we can ride directly? After apply there's to remove excess with a dry and clean rag turning the chain on the rag moving anti-clockwise the crankset? How many miles/km we can do on 100% dry conditions? Thank you.
Because this is a oil based lubricant you can ride straight away after you apply. No drying time. Yes you want to remove what’s on the outside because the outside oil in the chain will bring the dirt into the chain links. Where you do not want the dirt. You don’t need to go crazy though just 2-3 spins with a rag should suffice. In perfectly dry conditions, silca claim you can get 500 miles from this lubricant. Generally I tend to get about 300. I hope that helps!
@@cyclingunboxed thanks a lot for fast reply 🙏🏻 that help me. I was using liquid wax but the pain to degrease a new chain from factory grease is too much work, a lot of bath in different chemicals and tje result wasn't too much crazy. I hab a lot of smalls balls of wax between the links coming fast black/greasy, a lot on jockey wheels and when i touch the chain my finger was black. I just apply one drop on every roll. Now i have order boeshield t9 but dont try i will see, it look good in review but i need to try the Silca. The liquid wax is too much pain for a result not as great as expected also if you follow the rules to degrease chain and applying wax. I hope my english isn't too bad i am from France 😅
I am also not as much of a fan of the drip wax. It does get dirtier quicker. The hot melt wax is far superior. I understood more than well enough! Good English
@@cyclingunboxed i think hot melt is better cause the wax will go on every hole of the chain and give a real full lub there's no empty space. Removing factory grease before applying liquid wax i am sure that create area without lubrification cause the liquid wax don't go any far like hot melt wax or oil. My 12 speed chain Shimano 105 CN-M7100 900km and the chain checker 0,5% go on chain some days ago. I'm sure people say "you do something wrong" but i don't do nothing wrong cause i am a bike addict and i read a lot of tutorial before to do and follow the rules perfectly. Now i will try with quality oil with the same chain model and i am sure i will do more than 900km. The reason to stop oil was the idea with the wax no black on the chain but i have maybe more than with a basic oil.
Hmmm some times the wear checkers where you can measure, such as the 0.5-0.75 checker, I find that the chain starts at 0.5 when I take it out the packaging. For me the best way is to keep it simple. I use the official Shimano chain checker tool. Part number: TL-CN42 It’s super simple. You chain is either good or no good and it’s designed for their chains specifically. With this lubricant, the chain will still get black and dirty because it is an oil based lube. The friction will just be lower than others. If you really want to get the ultimate chain experience then the full iMessage got wax is worth the effort.
Good question. If you are using a new chain it Is highly recommend that you degrease the original packing grease off the chain. This is because the grease is only designed to preserve the chain and not to be used under tension. 2-3 runs of a normal degreaser through a chain cleaning cyclone tool should get most of that grease out. You can then apply this lubricant over your new shiny and clean chain. I hope that helps. If you need any further help then please let me know.
Chain manufacturers say they don't recommend degrishers before using new chains, Chainlube manufacturers say to use de-drishers before using them, and I know that wax-based lube needs to be completely erased and used, but I didn't think it was oil-based, but oil-based chain oils should also be cleaned with degrishers before using new chains. thank you
You want to flush out the degreaser, with water or some isopropyl/ denatured alcohol and then you should be good to go. They do recommend that for who know what reason but If you ever want to go really deep in to chain and lubricant information, here is some independent trysting: zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/ You can see that factory grease is almost right at the bottom and tests poorly so ZFC recommend you remove it as the new lubricant simply won’t just push out the factory grease.
