The shock mounting points had reinforcements welded on, and then I fabricated a custom strut brake that bolted to the shock tops and then went up and bolted to the chassis to support the stress. Hard to explain
@@fixedandwelded no problem. I get it I'm actually going to have my boy build us some custom rear strut mount and chassis reinforcements aswell. Plates, then a bar between. Then a cross brace that ties into the subframe bolt locations. Unsure if im doing true coils but I want to have my car be as rigid as possible. But still super streetable.
All you really have to do is reinforce the rear shock towers so they can withstand the added stress. NerpTech and other companies make tower reinforcement kits which you can weld in and build off of. There isn't a wrong or right way to do it, so long as it is reinforced.
I like to keep the diff solid within the subframe to avoid any flex, and then use 75d poly bushings from subframe to chassis to be the gatekeepers of noise being transferred into the chassis. That’s the combination that works best for me
I also have true rear coilovers on my street e36 what’s needed to run them safely. I’ve read on bimmer forums that need to build and weld in a whole strut brace for the rear strut towers. Is that true or can I just reinforce the rear strut towers with a weld in kit?
Late response: You at the very least need to brace the towers from the shocks exploding up and out. Preferably some sort of bracing system would be ideal. The rear towers were not designed to support the weight of the car and with true rears that is exactly what you are asking them to do. Personally I wouldn't trust just bracing the top of the towers, they will need more support than that.
Too late now...but I would strongly recommend against cutting the rear fenders. The sheet metal from the wheel well and the exterior sheet metal are spot welded together. Its an appearance issue so the spot welds aren't visible from the outside. The 2 layers of sheet metal will eventually separate and then it will be a massively painful issue to fix.
Appreciate you chiming in. They've been cut and rewelded together back in 2014 and they've been fine since. Obviously cutting quarters on a nice car isn't ideal, but certainly necessary to fit a good size tire in there with the desired alignment. Some might say its never right to cut them, but if you are going to, there is a wrong and right way to do this.
@@fixedandwelded my garage isn't tall enough...so looking at least at a Quick Jack. At least I won't have to be worrying about setting up the jackstands all the time
What spring rates did u go with on the silvers and how do they ride? I got the true one piece in yhr rear also with their out of the box spring rates at 12k front and 10k rear and it rides like complete dog poop in the rear. I mean, anything more than a minor bump in thr road and i feel like the rear end wants to launch me into outer space. Ive tried messing with more and less preload and with the damping all the way from soft to hard. Any info would be appreciated
Hey Roberto, 12/10k sounds painful! The yellow car has 2 rear setups: one with longer struts and springs at 6k. The 6k setup doesn't go as low but is perfect for more rough driving that requires more suspension travel (Summer Jam videos have the 6k setup). The second setup is 7k with shorter struts and springs. Typically I run the 7k with the car being able to sit lower to my liking. Hope that was helpful. Let me know if you have more questions.
