Be sure you buy the required control arm for your truck. You will have either aluminum or steel. If you are not sure which one you have then grab a magnet and if it sticks to the control arm it is metal, if it does not stick to the control arm it is aluminum. Pay close attention and make marks with a marker on the bolt cam location so it goes back in the exact same place and position then beside to get an alignment after the repair.
best install video I have watched to date without someone explaining how the dog ran away and the truck sat on Jack's for two weeks cause his money wasn't in to buy the parts! great job brother
Great video!! i am having a hard time installing the bolt w washer. It is hitting the spring and going in at an angle which isn’t allowing it to go into hole.
I took a seperate jack and put it under my lower control arm to compress/move the spring enough to remove the bolt. The driver side came out fine but I had this issue with the passenger side.
Wow. Great Video.. Thanks for making it. I see some take the strut out. I have a 2011 Silverado 1500. I’m wondering if taking the strut tower out is necessary?
Can you confirm torque specs for control arm bolts - Ball Joint = 37 ft/lbs and the two Bushing bolts = 140 ft/lbs? Thank you! Great video. It really prepared me to do the job. :)
I’ve already done this dozens of times on these style trucks, not sure how I ended up here. But I wish with the road salt we have that our cam bolts came off that easy. They’re pretty much guaranteed to break. And then you gotta try to get an air hammer in there to smash them out.
I have owed 5 Silverados, and they always needed upper control arms, lower ball joints, tie rod ends. And occasionally sway bar links. I have always had to cut the rear bolt on the upper control arm. I don’t understand how you just undid the the nut and the control arm came off.
i just did this on 16 and had to drop the strut on the passenger side to get that bolt out - this was on the forged arms (same ones in the video). We'll see how the drivers side goes next weekend lol
Replacing both of mine tomorrow from factory to the Rough Country lifted arms (after 1 of my factory ones decided to break @ the ball joint. Not sure how it managed to drive 20miles while broken without the wheel folding in. 😂
No shit. That’s my current struggle. I can get the front one but then I can’t get the back one. But if I take out the front one I can’t get the back one even started 😤 and I don’t have a strut compressor. Fml
I have a 2017 GMC Sierra slt that makes a popping noise in the front left suspension area as I turn the wheel. Have you had any similar issues? I gotten two inspections and all parts are new.
I have a 14 Slt 4x4 in shop now due to popping and in even tire wear, $1,475.50 for upper and lower control arms with ball joints. Hope it fix’s my popping and tire wear prob
On my 07 Silverado the coil spring is in the way to even slide the bolt out . I got it out by banging in it out. Now I don't have leverage to bang it back in because the bolt inserts crooked because of the spring
Awesome info and video! I am about to replace both UCA's and all four shocks with new Bilstein 6112's in the front and 5100's in the rear on my 2015 GMC Sierra All Terrain. I have watched all of your videos and feel pretty confident about doing it myself. I put the leveling kit on myself when my truck was brand new so hopefully this won't be too bad.
I have a 2015 All Terrain as well, don't they have a factory installed front leveling kit already? I'm basically in your shoes and am looking to do exactly what you are doing, did with the new Bilsteins. Are you happy with it, was it as easy as everything is on these vids? BTW I ordered the 5100's separately and was wondering if you bought all as a package or purchased individually. TIA
@@jatelierer I have traded my 2015 for a 2020 AT4 however I loved the 5100 bilstein shocks. The 2015 All Terrain do not come with a factory leveling kit so I removed the one I installed when I first purchased the truck and installed the 5100 to level it back out without the blocks for a much smoother ride. The 2020 AT4 does come with a factory 2inch lift but its not perfectly leveled. Ill be doing a 4inch BDS suspension lift on top of the factory 2inch for a total of 6 this fall
Mr. Work Hard Play Hard I believe you about the leveling but mine came leveled but perhaps that was an option the purchaser did when he bought it...obviously I bought mine used, the guy who originally ordered it also blacked it out and had a dealer installed at purchase Borla catback exhaust system with black chrome tips added...I love the new AT4's, they are already pretty sweet and high (in my opinion) but I'm torn now cuz I grew up a Ford guy and I love the new Broncos...got my rear 5100's yesterday need to order the fronts now...how much do you love that AT4, Beats the shit out of the dumb ass Denali package doesn't it
@@jatelierer I absolutely love the AT4. I've only had about a month and only have 1600 miles on it. I opted for the 6.2L and the power is no joke...love the bigger back seat area, rear vents and heated back seats for the kids. All the cameras cover ever angle of the truck including that birds eye view from straight above. I loved my 2015 but I'm super happy with the AT4 so far.
Doing this job right now and this video helped alot! I had to use a large C clamp and put pressure on the upper ball joint and hit the spindle to get mine out so in case you guys dont have a pickle fork but you have a C clamp you can try that trick
For those of you with a 2014 - 2016. The parts are not the same. The UCA was stamped steel, which is why your UCA might look different. GM told HQ me directly, that they made a 16 and a half (2016.5) like they used to do and have so many times. At the '16.5 period they swapped the UCA to the one you see here (forged steel). Thank you for the video. How much did you torque your UCA bolts?
Hi i was watching your videos and i wanted to know, can you change out the upper ball joints without buying new arms. I have a 2016 Denali. Thanks for your time.
I've heard of "pre loading" the upper control arm.. you guys know anything about that? So it's pretty much the opposite of what he said.. you gotta tighten the bolts a little high the attatch the ball joint... but idk... what do you guys think?
I had a issue with my hub on the passenger side and then my upper ball joint went out I just use it for work and back still has me guessing why they went out
I'm doing a 16 Canyon which is very similar. Should I grease the bushings? There is no grease nipple. I also heard that you are supposed to do upper control bolts torquing while the vehicle is on the ground? Thanks for the simple quick vid!
Damn can't believe I missed this video when I needed to change mine out all the other videos I seen scared me bro lol can't believe it's really this easy!!!
thanks for the video. I have bad story regarding upper control arms. I have replaced my 2015 tahoe upper control arms and after one week I found both ball joints damaged after I heard unusual sound in front. I was really shocked. I spent sometime for diagnosing the issue and I figured out I tight ball joint stud nut too much where the knuckle damage ball joint stipper. I bought new upper arms and replace them again but this time I tight until I feel ball joint stipper almost fit on pitch. I was afried of damaging ball joint again if I give more torqe. Now is what I did right? please advice...
Nope. Don't need to, if your rough and yank down on the spindle, the axle joint will pop out of place, if careful you be fine. I've never taken any out or loosen the nut off when changing control arms.
