Simple Method To Improve Your Soldering / Soldering Tutorial 

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I totally agree with your 3 rules , hopefully they can help other people progress a little with their soldering, if so I'm happy . Thank you again , take care 👍

I don't agree . in case of amateur work to much solder is problem only in case of clearance issue. Otherwise I don't have problem with such blobs of solder. Yes it doesn't looks nice, professional and polite, but it doesn't have any impact on functionality.

@bfx8185 hi , if you want to progress to more difficult components i.e fine pitch IC's you have to learn to control your solder amounts . So many people have commented to me on other videos how this method I show has helped them enormously. As they say , the proof is in the pudding .

@@mrsolderfix3996 I have 35years experience in soldering and I'm using the same style to put blob of solder and component afterwards. And you can control blob size as well. Using solder wire 0.32mm you can simply control amount of the solder on the pad. And for me 0201 is not a problem at all to do in such way. For fine pitch IC I like drag soldering. Amtech 559 as preferred flux.

Hi , not getting in an argument mate , you do it your way let other people decide how they want to do it . In the long run I believe my method will help people more than your way . But I always say if you have a method that works and your happy , stick with it . By the way I have 40 years of soldering knowledge but I don't mention that normally, in fact I think this is the first time . Bye

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍

I believe he uses a digital microscope. I am also curious what he uses.

In one video he told us that he uses a cell phone camera.

Even if your eyes are not weak, you should use at least a magnifying glass while doing this.

Buy a 70 buck digital microscope. My 50 year old eyes also require it 😂

With 70+ year old eyes, I also use a video-microscope for many operations though I am fortunate I can still do 0603 components without.

Hi , thank you again for watching my channel , it's always nice to see familiar faces returning . All I want to do is help a few people , if I can then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍

Hi , thank you for your very kind support of my RU-vid channel , it really is appreciated . If my videos can help a few people out with their soldering/ desoldering issues, then I'm happy . Thank you again for your generosity , take care 👍

Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated . Good luck with all of your soldering projects , I know you will achieve your goals , thanks again 👍

Hi , thank you for your comment . I actually do it horizontally , it's strange how different we can all be . Thanks again , take care 👍

Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very kind of you . I'm glad the videos have proved useful for you , that's great to hear . All I wanted to do was help a few people out with their soldering issues , so it's nice to hear comments like yours . Thanks again , take care 👍

Hi , thank you for watching the video and supporting my channel , very kind of you . . I'm glad the videos have helped you , that's great to hear . Keep up your soldering and you will become a master . Thanks again , take care 👍

Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , much appreciated . I'm glad to hear the videos have been of use for you , that's great to hear . If we can all help each other out then we can all improve . Thanks again , take care 👍

@@mrsolderfix3996 Hi, thanks for replying, I am wondering if you have a fix for heat transfer (lack of) when the pad is on the ground plane? Is there a trick out there? Oh, and keeping the tip REALLY clean at the end? I have been trying all day to solder 0402 size and I use 2 irons 0.2 and 1.6 tips. I have found that I struggle to use the 0.2 tip (even at 450 deg) and keep it clean. I have the 1.6 set to 380 deg and I am starting to use the bigger tip on smaller areas which may not be such a good idea. Do you have any advice please? I have gone through most of your videos and they are great.

Hi , thank you for your comment , really appreciated 👍

@@mrsolderfix3996 learned so much from your content I really appreciate it, I've been able to do board repairs and restorations that have saved me a fortune!

@@mrsolderfix3996 That had occurred to me as well. We appear to be moving from "well-tinned bit, wet the joint with solder from the reel" to "minimally-tinned bit, wet the joint with flux, hold off on the solder". Of course, better tip coatings and better temperature control count for a lot here.

Hi , thank you for your kind words , very much appreciated . If my channel can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then that's great . Thanks again and all the best for your future soldering projects 👍

Hi , thank you for your comment. There is always an element of guesswork when pre loading solder . You will always get more consistency tacking on lightly first . Definitely when soldering fine pitch devices you can't be sloppy as you hinted at and doing easier components consistently and carefully will definitely help towards achieving fine pitch successfully . I always say though If you have a method that works for you then stick with it , we are all different . Thanks again for your time 👍

Hi , thank you for your comment . I have done so many videos on subjects such as different solder sizes , fluxes , how to get good joints etc . In lots of my videos I mention temperatures for leaded and lead free , I'm always giving out information but you can't just keep repeating it over and over as the videos would be way too long and a bit samey . I try to cover most of the basics but you probably need to watch quite a few of my videos to appreciate the info is in there somewhere . Hopefully that helps , thanks again 👍

@@mrsolderfix3996 fair enough. I will go through all of them. Thanks for the teachings!

Hi , no problem , thanks for your comments 👍

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I mention iron temperature's , both lead free and leaded quite a lot within some of my other videos. It's hard to always mention everything in every video as they would probably become too long . Hopefully if you watch some of the others on my channel you should find what I like to use . Thank you for supporting my channel and good luck in the future with all of your soldering projects 👍

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍

@@mrsolderfix3996 No problem mate. I honestly appreciate your uploads, and learn loads from every one of your videos. Good work mate! Take care.

Hi , thank you , all the best 👍

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍

Hi , thank you for watching the video and supporting my channel by subscribing , very much appreciated 👍

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍

Hi , thank you for your support of my channel . I'm glad you enjoyed the video , hopefully it can help a few people out. Thanks again , take care 👍

Hi , thank you for your comment . I've seen plenty of people working for Electronics firms still doing the blob method ( Test Engineers for example )known for doing this still , definitely not just people on RU-vid doing it this way . This is why I put the video out as it still goes on professionally in many commercial firms. Thanks again 👍

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍

Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I'm glad you tried the method out and found it useful . It really is a much better way to solder . Hopefully a few other people try it and get on with it . Their soldering will definitely improve pretty quickly . Thanks again , take care 👍

Hi , thank you for supporting my channel , very much appreciated 👍

Hi , thank you for your comment . If my videos can help a few people out then I'm happy . Thanks for your support 👍

Hi , thank you for your kind words and supporting my channel , very much appreciated . If I can help a few people then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍

Yup big fan of the chisels. JBC could learn to make a decent 115 micro.

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated , take care 👍

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍

Hi , thank you for watching the video and leaving a comment . Your support is very much appreciated 👍

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍

Hi , thank you for supporting my channel , very kind of you . I'm glad you have found the video's useful , that's great to hear . You definitely get better the more you solder as you get to learn what you need i.e tools , temperatures , solder thicknesses etc so I would always say to people stick with it and in the end you'll start enjoying what you can achieve . Thanks again , nice to hear your story 👍

Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . It's always nice to receive positive feedback so thanks for that . I am definitely not from Brazil , I just liked the colours in their flag ( it suits PCB work ) so I used it . England's where I'm based . Thanks again , take care 👍

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . It's always good to hear other people's experiences , so thank you for that . Thanks again , take care 👍

Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . It's always good to hear other people's experiences , the more methods that get mentioned , the more options people have to choose from . Tacking on the way I like to do it works for me , but I've always said if you have something that works for you and you are happy stick with it . Thanks again , take care 👍

@@mrsolderfix3996 i absolutely value your content. I watch every video and share you as a source of learning. I’ve definitely learned from you!

Hi , thank you for your kind words , really appreciated . I will always upload more videos when I can but sometimes I struggle to get time to do them . Thanks again , take care 👍

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍

Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I've featured hot air stations on some of my videos but you have a good point . I will definitely do a couple of videos totally dedicated to hot air work . Maybe I will do these as my next uploads . Thank you for the idea , take care 👍

Tips, the sore of soldering. I wish solder would stay at the tip of the tip.😊

Hi , thank you for your comment . I use in my videos a Weller TCP S iron and the small conical tip is a PTP7 . Old school type of iron but they are still great . Thanks again , take care 👍

Hi , thank you for your comment . I've posted a few methods like You've mentioned in some of the other videos on my channel .. I've done a few removal videos dedicated to different ways to remove components including the type you have mentioned . Also one of my very early postings showed 4 different ways to remove IC's . Hopefully you can find these and see what you need . Thanks again , good luck👍

Hi , if you learn good practices with the basic stuff you will go onto do the harder components a lot easier i.e rows of 0402 size components that are almost touching to start with . You will be able to do these without shorting them . Questionable if you could do these successfully with the excess solder method . Also fine pitch IC's done a lot easier if you learn to manage your solder amounts . Loads more examples I could give but no point really . If people want to improve they will find it easier not loading pads first .

Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. You are right , there is still a slight element of guess work , but I'm like you , I err on the side of caution . I know roughly how much solder paste is generally applied to different IC's and try and match that with either solder or solder paste . Has always been successful for me doing it this way . Thank you again for a good point raised , take care 👍

Just found the video you mention about it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0b_AA7uj388.html Flux is smfl200d. Would you still reply about the solder paste?

Hi , unfortunately SMFL200D is no longer available . I use one by Loctite , can't remember the exact code , I will look it up and mention it sometimes soon . Trouble is the Loctite one I now use is only available at a lot of distributers in 5 Litre drums , obviously too much for most people . Sorry I can't help you more at this time .

@@mrsolderfix3996Right, thank you for replying! I'll wait for your information later.

Hi , the flux I now use is Loctite 6381-35 liquid flux . It really is great , the only unfortunate thing about this flux is that you have to buy it in larger quantity's than most people need i.e 1 litre or 5 litre containers . If anyone knows where you can purchase smaller amounts it would be good to hear the suppliers. Sorry I couldn't help anymore . Thanks again for your time 👍

@@mrsolderfix3996 That is great, it will certainly do for me! Thank you for sharing. Do you ever use solder paste?

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍

Hi , I've recently posted a video on my channel totally dedicated to Tweezers , brands , tips , costs etc . Maybe this video will be of use to you . Thank you for your comment , take care 👍

Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I've posted a complete video on RU-vid showing how I clean my boards . Lots of info , plus materials I use . The cloths I use are not available anymore , there are others similar out there but the main thing with the video is it will show you my methods including a surprise trick that works great . Hopefully you find the video . Thanks again , take care 👍

Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your time is very much appreciated 👍

Hi , if you learn to use less solder you will end up being able to solder smaller and smaller parts without any danger of short circuits . Being over zealous with your solder isn't a problem on larger parts like I mention in the video but will make it difficult to progress your skills . Thanks for your comment , take care 👍

@@mrsolderfix3996 thanks my friend and keep the good work

Hi , no problem . Thanks for your support 👍

Hi , thank you for your kind words , it really is appreciated . If the videos can help a few people then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍

Hi , thank you for your comment . You are right , with the first components I showed 0805 size they will still work fine . When you get to 0402's that are so close together , unless your more careful you will struggle and potentially get shorts . Learning to apply the right amount of solder will help you so much when soldering the tiny parts or fine pitch devices . If you ever see the amount that automated pcb's have pasted on them that's what is ideal, the same as I try and achieve. Hopefully people will learn to control the amount better and progress from there , which they will do for sure . Being sloppy only gets you so far . I hope this roughly explains why I've posted this video . Thank you again for your time , take care 👍

You might have issues with wetting (when solder not only sticks, but also connects surfaces) that get hidden by a solder blob. E.g. you have loads of tin on the pad such that it encapsulates and physically holds the component by the lead, but lead does not get enough heat to break down the surface oxide and properly connect tin to the component itself. Concave surface indicates, that both surfaces have been wetted and have sucked in enough tin to make reliable connection.

To my mind, one of the issues, especially if you pre-tin both pads, is that the component can't be in its proper location until, maybe, after the joint has been made. If there is a blob, even a small one, on the other end, it assures that the part will be off the board when this end is soldered. Then the other connection can only be... component contact, solder, PCB trace. In other words, instead of component to trace, there is a layer of solder that the current has to flow through. This is *probably* okay in many cases, but if you're working with precision low-value resistance, for example, it affects the results. There are also potentially thermal EMF issues with the copper-solder-copper path, and it's good to avoid those. Even if there is one a pre-blob on one end, it's still the case that the component can't be put where it belongs except under conditions where everything is heated up. If you're like me at all, it's sometimes difficult to get the part in the right place, because of physical skills and shaking and so on. I don't want to do that while heat is soaking into my component and changing it in undesired ways. I would rather put it where it belongs, "dry" so to speak (with flux!), and then dab a little heat and solder into the region and get the joint made as quickly as possible, using MrSolderFix's technique. The advantages I like are (1) the part is in the right place, and if I'm lucky and careful, will have copper-to-copper contact, (2) the part has been subjected to a minimal amount of heat, even if it takes me a long time to position it. I also like the clean and consistent look. In some extremely. precise cases, I might think about joint resistance and thermal EMF and such, and consistency will help with more than just the appearance in those cases, it can actually improve the performance.

@@ydonlGood points on resistance, EMF and extra heat, didn't think of that off the top of my head. BUT you'll get bimetallic joint at any rate, if you solder, due to tin wicking between pad and part, so your assumption about copper-to-copper joint is not entirely correct. Even if you would manage to avoid wicking tin, you'll get a thin layer of copper oxide in there with extra resistance and it would be worse than properly soldered joint. That's why thermocouples are welded together :) Pretinning is fine for general use, but you have to use absolutely minuscule amount of tin on the pad. Precision circuits where component tension and joint resistance are of importance should be treated with extra care. Video's good though, teaching good habits and best practices :) Also - what about tin-plated leads soldered to gold pads? :)

Hi , thank you all for your comments , very much appreciated 👍

BLT have a brilliant rework flux, you don't have to use the syringe fitting just squeeze some out in a pot and brush it on

@@seagullsg784 Good point. I have been hesitant to do that as I figured I would end up wasting flux that was left over after a session and the flux (cif) ain't cheap. A sealable pot would sort that I guess. I had a look at the BLT fluxes, any recommendations between water soluble Vs no clean Roisin Vs no clean non Roisin?

My biggest issue is BLT dont seem to have a local supplier. Shipping costs are more than the item. So disappointing ​@@seagullsg784

He is using a phone camera to record as he said before (maybe with a magnifier installed to the camera) but im not sure if he is soldering with the same method or he have a microscope.

Looks like 3d scope

Hi , thank you for your comment . I've seen and personally used flux in a syringe . Much prefer applying it with a plastic cable tie , more controlled without it occasionally blocking in the syringe then shooting everywhere when it does finally come out . Won't go back to this method again . Loctite 6381-35 Is the flux I use now , great flux but you have to buy a large quantity which can be a drawback to many people . I also use solder paste in syringes ( done it in a couple of my other videos ) , definitely the best option to apply if you haven't got a stencil . Thanks again 👍

@@mrsolderfix3996 wow, that Loctite 6381-35 is expensive especiually since only available in 5l , not that i can source any in the uk. normal suspects don't stock it. 😞. Shame. But your videos are magic so thanks for sharing.

Hi , thank you for your comment . I know what you mean , I managed to get a decent amount from someone I knew that will last me a long time . I haven't posted much about this Loctite flux as I knew it was to expensive for the general person on RU-vid . If you are in the UK I would contact BLT CIRCUITS , ask for Greg . He will be able to help you . They are great for all solders , fluxes etc and their prices are really good . All the best and thanks again , take care 👍

Hi , no practice , this is how I do soldering normally. Bit confused by your comment . Thanks for your time 👍

@@mrsolderfix3996 Those resistors clearly show the same techniques as in this video. Take a look at 2:11, for example

@@brake_4_cake Hi , this is a scrap board that I let people practice on . I'm not that bad , please check out some of my other videos and you will see I'm pretty capable. Thanks for your comments

@@mrsolderfix3996 Oh, no, I thought you just made an earlier version of the video, not that you're bad at soldering. Sorry if it came across that way!

@brake_4_cake Hi , no problem , I sometimes use boards for demonstrating methods in my videos and sometimes I use proper boards where I'm doing proper work . You may see strange situations on some of the dummy boards where people have practiced . Thanks again 👍

Hi , thank you for your comment , very kind of you 👍

Hi , sorry , totally disagree with everything you've said . Check the rest of my videos out , I hope you see that I can solder pretty well . The way you say is so wrong . Everyone has an opinion , mine will never agree with yours, that's life . I've just checked your channel to see how it's done correctly , couldn't find any soldering videos , maybe you should show us all how to do it correctly 👍

@@mrsolderfix3996 so what is your reason for using a conical tip? I don't think any professional advice recommends it, and the "problem" you are solving wouldn't happen if you had the right one.

@kuro68000 I work with lots of professionals, working on military grade boards . All of us are IPC certified ( are you ? ) and love conical tips for fine pitch work , modifying boards , doing components down to 1005 size . Try doing that with your suggestion . You are talking nonsense , totally dismissing conical tips . Please don't write about a subject you have no clue on . Look at some of my other videos if you think I don't have a clue . What is your soldering RU-vid site called ? I want to check it out . So many people have written to me after switching to conical tips for certain work and find it so much better . That's why they are still sold . If they were of no use they wouldn't sell them . I'm waiting for your reply on your channel name for soldering . Thanks .

@@mrsolderfix3996 can you answer the question?

Are you on a wind up ? You must be . Have you read the IPC ? It recommends methods but doesn't say you have to use one tip or the other . Your choice . Conicals ate best for certain jobs including small components . You tell me where it states you must not use a conical under NO circumstances , you won't be able to . Mate , get a life please . Oh by the way , found your channel , no soldering videos , not really surprised 😂

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