Thank you!! I followed your steps for my 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger 318 Motor. Everything tested it out great except I was not getting power to the coil. My resistor ground was bad and I figured it after following your instructions. “Crank the engine please!” I love it!! Thanks for the video!!!
Thank you for the substantive, beneficial and awesome video! To be honest, its people in the world like you that deserve to be rich beyond your wildest dreams for saving the world a headache with tutorials like this one step at a time! God bless you man.
@adomayor If looking at the three wire femail connector to the igniter (ICM) with the lock tab on the top, left is #1, center #2, and righr #3. with ignition on, must have battery voltage between #2 and body ground, if not check ignition coil or blk/yel wire between ICM and coil. With ign on battery voltage between #3 and body ground, if not check coil or blue wire between icm and coil. Fuse should be by the kick panel. hopefully theis helps.
Excellent step-by-step process. I followed your instructions up to replacing the coil. I replaced the coil for my 4 cyl Toyota pick up with identical OEM. Everyone including the tow guy told me he was sure it was my 35yr antique coil needed replacing! Although having a new coil is good it wasn’t the problem. When I got to checking if my rotor was spinning it just sat there. I made sure it was installed properly and it was. Thanks to you I discovered the problem! Never in my 50 yrs of working on cars have I seen a bad distributor. I was almost gong to skip that test. I was so sure it worked. What do I do to fix it? I know…replace it right? I think I will look in my trusty Haynes manual for advice before I spring for a new one.
@FrankHurtAuto thanks a lot. very helpful vid. I did my test with the coil wire unplugged which is why i assume my test light didn't blank. I'll try it again. Thx for the tut
I don't think he's deceiving us. His intention is to teach us how to diagnose the problem. If he didn't do that the car would start. Seeing the picture worth more than thousand words, I like to thank him for his time.
happen to me this weekend, took me two days but, it was a ground wire burned out, check wiring first guys, i changed coil for no resaon, GROUND IS EVERYTHING
@adomayor Test light alligator clip goes to ground (-). Test light will be solid on positive (+) side with ignition on and it should blink on (-) side while cranking, If it's doing this, your coil should be fine.
If while cranking you have solid light on one side and blinking light on the other, i don't see why the coil won't produce a spark. What make model is your vehicle?
what if you have power from the coil but no spark from spark plugs wire and u have a new cap and roter what could it be thanks could it be a bad pickup coil inside the distributor
When you say not turning over, do you mean not cranking properly? if that is the case I would look at the battery or starter. As far as crankshaft position sensor goes, it would normally set a code, and you would get a "check engine" light on your instrument panel.
@adomayor Pardon me for nor replying sooner, was on winter holidays. Hope your car is running. We had a similer problem with a Honda Civic and it turned out to be loss of compression due to too much fuel going in (the cylinder walls were getting washed with excess fuel) and it was loosing compression. All we had to do was squart some motor oil through the plug holes and crank. Compression came back and the engine fired.
@FrankHurtAuto Testing the power line going to the coil as you did in this vid at 3:55. I got one side solid, and no side blanking while cranking the engine. What does that mean? My test light alligator clip is on ground (-). It's a 98 honda accord V6 Coupe. And there is an igniter (electronic chip) inside the distrubutor cap
Its a 1999 mazda 626. 2.5. v6. I get not spark out of the coil pack. Its distributorless system. Changed the coil pack and still the same. I used the probe light to see if power was going to the coil pack. I do get power but no flash on the light when cranking engine
If there is no spark on any coil pack, it is most likely the crank position sensor (behind the crank shaft). while cranking, are you able to read RPM's on tach?
Initially, ur cable wasn't attached to the coil, then all of a sudden u attached it n it runs... Sth is not adding up. Anyways, u shed some light and i wl check my ride for spark as well. Big ups
No need to remove the distributor cap until you test the control wire first. It's quick and easy and requires no disassembly other than pulling the connector and using a test light. Also I would start further back at the coil and move forward instead of at the spark plugs moving back (of course this would be after verifying that the plugs aren't firing... it could just be one plug alone whereas the coil tests the capability). Just a couple of timesaving observations. If you have a decent oscilloscope or even a cheap Chinese 8-channel scope and some inductive probes you could test all at once.
Hi there. While testing the power wire going to the coil, was the test light connected to a ground (-) or a (+)? Mine has power but my test light doesn't blank
Hello, I have a question Crankshaft position sensor bad causes the fuel pump does not work? In my car have not spark, no fuel and I have code KPS Thank you.
Hi there. Am the guy with the Accord V6. I now have spark and fuel. it cranks but still no start. It gets flooded as i try it too many times. Then i would remove the plugs and let them dry and let the fuel evaporate, then put everything back, crank it again and no start. I don't know what else to try but to take it to the mechanic. thx for ur help. at least i learned something from ur tut. happy holidays
ok, so I took the 98 V6 accord to the mechanic. It turned out that the computer got deprogrammed (maybe because of the bad ignition switch). They had it reprogrammed and the car started and is running well now. Just to follow up on the story.
Is the probe light suppose to flash for a d.s.i coil pack aswell? And if its indicating power with a solid light but does not flash when cranking engine what does it mean?
yup, even with coil pack it should be solid on one side and flashing on the other. The modual underneath the coil pack gets the signal from computer, which gets the input from crank and cam sensor. What vehicle is this?
I would watch this video BUT I have Hughes satellite dish for my internet service and it may take a couple days to play and by then the 1970 Cutlass Supreme might just fix itself.....and I have a feeling it is the basics of checking for spark
I have a 95 Ford Taurus that will not crank I've done change the distributor the rotor the cap the coil and it just turns but it won't start can you tell me what it could probably be wrong
Thank you very much for your education. I am using Daewoo Matiz 2003. I got the same problem. After changing the ignition coil, still the power don't come from the ignition coil to the spark plugs. Any idea? Thank you.
Do I need to have the spark plug tester. And is there tests i can do without it to diagnose the problem. I have a regular 6-12V tester. The Van is not sparking and has been struggling for a bit to start but usually with a bunch of gass it goes. It is a 1981 dodge.
+Jeff Riel Theres an old skool test you can do. Use a spark plug instead of the tester.. pull out a spark plug, put it in No: 1 and ground the spark plug to a bolt and crank the engine.. then try it with the coil lead.. Warning though, if you hold the spark plug and do this, you may cop a shock... ask me how i know.. ;)
hi my car wont start but it does have spark and fuel pump is good.when i spray start fluid on throttle it kinda wants to start so that tells me there is spark.is it possible the fuel pressure regulator is bad?or computer?once in a big while it does start and run for 3 minutes then dies and no start again.
Hi, I replaced my coil on my 1996 golf, now the car wont start. With the old coil it runs for about 20 minutes and then begins to sputter and eventually shut off/hard starts
My golf mk3 stops out of nowhere. I replaced the coil and for about a week worked fine, the it started to do the same as before. Have you tried changing the hall sensor?
real fancy tools you got there... i usually use a screwdriver in the plug wire. no need to waste money on useless tools like that. i have never even heard of a spark plug wire tester thing...whatever it is
One side should have battery voltage and the other should be blinking while cranking. If it doesn't blink while cranking, i would look at pick-up coil or ignition modual (depending on the year of the vehicle)
Sorry for the delay, our school was closed for holidays. If there is no blink on the negative side, i would look at the ignition module (it's under the distributor cap)
hey i have a 94 geo metro 3 cyclinder what are the names of both tools used in this video cause im no mechanic lol but id like to check myself bfor spending money on a mechanic....any suggestion welcome thnx
+juan albarran They are spark testers. you can do the same test with a screwdriver that has an insulated handle. insert the metal side into the plug wire boot and hold it about 5-7 mm from a metal surface and see if there is a spark jump between screwdriver and metal surface. MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOT HOLDING THE SCREWDRIVER FROM METAL SURFACE.
I have a 1990 dodge w150 with 5.2 TBI engine. 180000 miles so I did a compression test cylinders were all good. My problem is now it just cranks no start. I disconnected coil wire from dist. for test and just set aside. Did I fudge something up with not perhaps grounding the wire. I am from the Autobdy side of things, my sons truck trying to save him some money. Confused here. They talk of an ASD relay or did I fry a fusible link.Put new plugs, coil, hall effect pick up, cap and rotor, ASD relay, fuel pump, Still cranks no start all these parts one at a time then try to start to no luck. Distrib was not removed. I am leaning toward the energy from compression test with coil not grounded f_ _ked something up. Hopefully not the SEBC comp I guess I will check the fusible links next and injectors next Any help would be much appreciated. Engine chasis battery to frame all grounds are good too. I'm not getting power to + side of coil and tried jumping to pos post on battery with fuel in carb still crankno start.what a SNAFU. Help please. Montana Rick.
I know this is an old video but I still have a '92 Geo tracker I would like to know what happens when you put the tester in that plug my light stays on and when I crank it I just get a solid light it does not blink
@@FrankHurtAuto Yes I put a brand new igniter but I will check tomorrow and the other side I didn't check to see if it blinks but I appreciate you getting back to me if I have any info tomorrow I will hit you back thank you very much for your help
hi i have a 91 Subaru legacy with the bottle coil im not getting spark ive change the rotor and the igniter but im not getting the signal to the coil just a constant light when i probe the wires going to the coil can u help me
+dennis finney check the voltage at the positive (+) terminal of the ignition coil with the ignition switch in RUN. If the reading is not within battery voltage, check for a worn or damaged ignition switch.
Here's a question: I drive a fiat uno cento it has a module consisting of a D1071 transistor (darling transistor) the modules keep failing now diagnos that, the battery voltage has nothing to do with it and the wiring is perfect also the modules are installed according to factory specs... yet they keep failing.....ps where I live is a clue
ok so here's the answer: I live in south Africa and this problem only plagues us during summer.... you guessed the modules over heat installing a 1"x1" 12v cooling fan on the heat sink and linked to the ignition solved the problem... as to fixing them all that would happen is the transistor would get so hot it would desolder it's self from the board soldering the points back would fix it... and on rear occasion replacing the transistor, they cost 25c, would also fix it
