the bobbin should turn further to throw off the loop from the top thread around the bobbin. when it does the anti clocks movement it should go further. it must loop around the shuttle. between the shuttle and shuttle carrier.
I have very limited knowledge of these machines but after talking with some others with more knowledge on these machines they cautioned me that the 29-4 is prone to wear in the gears and other associated parts that once worn, will become unable to adjust or correct them to allow the machines to function properly again. Hope this isn't the case with our machines. Glad to hear you were able to get yours to work with some bobbin modification, but, the new bobbin should work well. I have also heard that some bobbins are cheap chinese knock offs that wont work as well as other better quality bobbins. Hope you get to post an update though.
Hello,..I use an Adler that is very similar to your machine. I do believe that your two threads should be the same thickness. My machine has some wear in the mechanism that causes it to miss a stitch occasionally, but I use it every day in my shoe repair business. Best of luck in finding the fix.
Здравствуйте!Я из России,Сибири,Алтайский край.Недавно приобрел такую же швейную машину.Очень Вам благодарен за помощь,видеоролик.В двойне приятно,что так хорошо объясняла женщина.Спасибо Вам за все.Хотелось бы увидеть Ваше лицо.
If you are still having issues with this I noticed that your thread is getting wrapped around the shaft of piece that you show at 7:39. I believe this is called the shuttle carrier and the part with the hook that the bobbin sits in is called the shuttle. The thread should pass between these two pieces to complete a stitch. First off the carrier should be a complete circle with the bevel all the way around it. On yours there is a flat that would be positioned directly under the hook of the shuttle. Take the carrier to a machine shop and ask if they can either weld on this extra part or make a whole new carrier. Second there should not be much play between the carrier and the frame, but you still don't want any binding to occur. This should prevent the thread from going under your carrier and becoming tangled. The number stamped into my carrier is 8605 for reference.
The problem is you didn't feed the thread properly through the bobbin! With the bobbin apart and full of thread, you will need to guide the thread through the bottom of the bobbin spool ring up through the hole and into the tension plate. The tension plate has the little screw attached to it. Then attach the spool into the spool ring through the tiny guide hole (in the spool ring) and then through the hole in the base plate. Slide the base plate back into position with the thread already out of it. Your done!
the big horizontal bar is for the ajusting the mechanism of the foot steps. In my Model is more clear and that mechsnism of the foot step has 3 options - S - M - L , Short - Medium -Large footstep.
Had a similar problem, and what had happened was the piece below the shuttle had came out, and I put it in one cog off, and the timing was off. Finally got it back in the proper gear cog, as shown in 5:20 Also had the loose stitch issue, and had to take the tension bar off the bobbin
i guess we are all waiting to see your follow up video, bought mine last week and spent an hour messing around but seem to have tension issues or sew it seams;)
Like my Phaff if you have no tention on the bobbin the upper loops will tangle with not enough tension on the disc`s it`ll long loop underneath , But obviously these machines are made for incredible tension but it seems for sure the thread has to come thru the top , Take a look at the timing while the needle is down all the way take a look at the shuttle hook it should be Just behind the needle so as it lifts it`ll create a loop for the shuttle to grab and walk around the bobbin , The shuttle hook should just about touch the needle when going by ,Wondering if the needle arm has an adjustment forward and back but center it in the hole if any My double needle post machine does it`s very finicky 2 systems in it I had to sit for 2 days up close watching it to get it to run right ; The tension on mine you can`t pull the thread using your pinky and third finger straight about number 1-to-4 setting upper from loose and firm lock on lower tension .
.... I have always had the groove on the needle facing out and never facing the machine ... also .. D/E thread always worked for me on my 29 long arm leather sewing machine .. I made thousands of dollars using my 29 k .... the head eventually froze up and .I fixed it ... any shoe repair supply wholesaler sells the needles and thread for that specific machine .. I'm very sure that if the needle groove is facing to the right in the direction towards the machine it will not pick up the stitch at the bobbin .... I've been repairing shoes / boots , refurbishing leather goods and filling orthopedic correction prescriptions for over 35 yuears and counting ....... good luck there ....
I do this, but if I do backward and forward stitching. the thread sometimes misses. the manual says to have the groove on the needle. looking from the front of the machine. the groove then would be to the left. I am going to try this.
I know its an old thread but, first thing is if you are not using the wax pot , then use bonded thread, also use same size thread for top and bottom, check the twist on the thread left or right, I can`t remember now but in the bobbin you can use left or right twist thread, but for the top you can only use a certain twist, I can`t remember now, I think your bobbin was up side down as well, check the thread is not to thick, for the groove of the needle,check your thread goes in the groove not to thin or thick for it, it should fit snug same as the eye of the needle ,not to loose or to tight, Hold your bobbing case pull about 7 inch of thread, wrap the beginning of the thread around your finger `now let the bobbing case dangle , give a quick jerk throwing your finger down about 2 inches and then back up in one motion, If the bobbing case drops all the way to the floor the tension is to lose , if it don`t drop at all the tension is to tight, if it drops about 3 inch and stops its good, check for bad rough area`s on the bobbin case and underneath the plate that covers the bobbin where the needle passes through, Place half a drop of oil underneath bobbin If its snapping thread the tension usually to tight ,or the thread its either to thick and jamming and getting caught, or thread is untwisting as it goes around if wrong twist or not waxed,or something is snagging is due to roughness, If you buy non genuine bobbins a lot from china do not fit correctly in the bobbin case you have to buy the China bobbin case as well , I think thread runs in between the gap , I am sure the timing may be out, I am sure one of the teeth on the cog has to be one tooth forwards than the other one, unless I am thinking of another patcher model, check for worn parts , like the driver pinion , you will have to remove it to have a good look , underneath it , And check all pathways the thread runs along is smooth and clean, and the thread is running of the spool smoothly , not to easy and not to stiff,
I had the same problem with my machine and it was the timing. The shuttle carrier has to be placed in the exact correct position and then the shuttle also has to be in the correct position. The wheel has to be turned to get the shuttle carrier in the right position. I was told the wheel had to be in the twelve o'clock position and then insert the shuttle in the correct position in the carrier then I was told by another that the wheel had to be in the nine o'clock position and put the carrier in facing just before the claw to pick up thread and that did the trick. It then picked up the thread from the needle at the exact position and both exited from the bobbin together and that worked fine.
Hi Carolyn, I just got a 29-4 last month and I'm learning the machine. But I ran out of bobbin thread, can you tell me how do you wind the bobbin? And where did you find the manual for the machine from? Can you tell me which wheels are your belts on, top and bottom wheels? My belt broke and I don't remember which wheels it go on. Thanks.
hello Caroyn , we're hoping to see and hear what you find out about this machine "working" right , tks ... and maybe some info about where you did buy the parts and right thread , tks again ...
I solved the problem, very similar to yours. turn the needle a little bit, clockwise. or towards the front that the eye of the needle is not straight, so that the thread can make the loop a little wider and the bobbin grasps the needle thread. Contact me if you still haven't solved that problem.
you might be turning the balance wheel-crank in the wrong direction, it happened to me the first one i sewed with. and i think the bobbin is in up side down. good sewing roy
Hi Roy can you help me out on something? I have a singer 29-4, can you tell me how to wind the bobbin on it? Or can you send me a video on how to do it, msblkdymond@rocketmail.com? Also can you tell me how to put the belt on, like which wheels do it go on, top and bottom? It came with two uncut belts, but it didn't have a belt on it already. Your help would be greatly appricated, thanks.
Hi, I spent a day with my machine. It wouldn't work. I was turning the wheel the wrong way. And my tension has to be really tight. So tired and almost snapped every time I put it through the needle. And I also use the smallest hole on the top plate that flips around.
@@otealuajones8289 If the balance wheel is fitted at the side of the machine, it is important that the bobbin should be placed on the bobbin winder spindle with the slot in the side of the bobbin on the outside, so as to ensure that the bobbin will be wound correctly. In this case, the wheel must always be rotated from it top to the right (i.e. clockwise), as when sewing. see: rupert.id.au/29k/
Thanks for the excellent video...the clarity of the filming is extraordinary and would like to know what camera it was filmed with. Looking forward to the next video update.
So hopefully I will get to video an update for you tomorrow. The camera we bought dec 2013 and it is a Sony Cybershot DSC-HX30V. 18.2 megapixels, 20x optical zoom full HD video (AVCHD Progressive is what the camera says). This is a photo camera 1st but it was because of its video quality in a compact size what prompted us to buy it. I filmed in HD (you have a choice) and then used "Handbrake" to size it smaller for uploading. I'm sure we paid no more than $350 for it back then. Maybe as much as $400 but no more.
+treborterb Hi there, you seem fairly knowledgeable with the 29K Singer Sewing Machines, I have just bought a 29K13 (1902 year) It seems to want to sew, the needle and thread is stitching from the top, but the thread from the bobbin does not seem to be connecting with the top thread. In the end I just seem to get a knot under the bobbin holder. I was thinking maybe the timing could be out, I have three gears under my arm, and only one ratchet shaft, not two like the machine shown in this video. Also I need to know were I can get parts if I need them. I am living in New Zealand, and do not seem to be able to find anyone here who can help me.
So I started making my updated video but ran into a couple of problems. The new shuttle carrier that I bought doesn't fix the thread issue in the bobbin box meaning that the thread is still hanging up on the bobbin and not sliding off to complete the stitch. What a bummer. The shuttle carrier that I modified still works but I was hoping that the new one would be even better. So I stopped recording until after the holiday. As far as the tension goes I was able to make all the correct adjustments after I got the machine to sttch. You're right there was very little tension in this video.
I have the same machine and same problems and I hope someone can post a youtube video that shows the correct placement of the bobbin as well as how it operates with a closeup as you have demonstrated. Thanks.
Currently my machine is buried on my porch for the winter, will be digging it out soon and could post a video. I do have some stuff on Leatherworker.com but I don't think I have any video's posted there presently.
WHEN YOU SHOWED UNDERNEATH WHERE THE GEARS ARE, YOU HAVE TO PUT BOTH OF THEM IN THE LAST GEARS ON EACH SIDE RIGHT ACROSS FROM EACH OTHER. YOU ARE ONE TOOTH TO LOW ON EACH SIDE.
Correct, but maybe not clear. Let me try. When the shuttle hooks the needle thread, it should carry the thread around itself far enough to feed around the far side of the shuttle. Your shuttle isn't rotating enough for this to happen. Likely, the gearing underneath wants the racks (the straight pieces with gear teeth) to mesh with the partial spur gear (half moon and five tooth gear) so that the racks are one tooth closer to the needle. Alternatively, the far end of the driven rack may be adjusted to too small a travel. At all events, runnig the machine with the bobbin cover open and light tension on the tail of the top thread applied in the direction of the needle should produce a series of half twists. Sewing machines are complicated? Yup. Sewing's likely 50,000 years old; sewing machines only happened in the last 150 years.
the stitch length is located on back of foot, the square piece and thumb skrew, with foot up you slide the square down as far as it will go for longest stitch. and tighten thumb skrew. if you have more question. look up the part in parts manual it will show the three pieces that go to length adjustment.
the needle is 134-35 for this machine.i repair this machines.the problem is that the needle is go to low.if you have question about this machine write.
i see one problem on ur mqchine . u are missing a piece on top.. when you open the book for the timing the picture before there is X and W there is adjustment that your machine doesnt have that might be the problem .
Hi Carolyn, Did you get the machine working correctly in the end? One thing I did notice and that was the walking foot didn't seem to be pulling the material through efficiently. Mine seems to be functioning OK now. It was worn on the bottom over the past 80 years, so I re-cut the teeth with a fine cutting tool on the Dremel. Works perfectly now. I just need the right expert to tell me how to take it apart safely as I am not getting enough stitches to the inch as I should be getting. I see there are a few idiots who are very quick to post scathing remarks. Trisha and Frank, get a life! Carolyn has made the video which has helped enormously in determining problems, yet all you seem to have done is to offer your coarse comments. Why don't you try to do the same thing and see what comments you get?
Hi Fine Shoe Repair, I just bought a 29-4 last month and I'm getting use to it. But I don't know how to wind the bobbin. I've tried to wind it but the thread keep winding around the bobbin really loosely. Can you please send me a video of how its done to my email, msblkdymond@rocketmail.com? Thanks.
There is a Stitch Regulator, a square piece that goes right behind the needle, loosen up the thumb screw and adjust it up and down as needed. I think that when that is all the way down the stitch is larger.
her problem is that gear, the three tooth gear is the proper gear. The five tooth won't work, plus the idler gear is worn out. #1 is the drive gear (3 tooth) some guy back east had the 5 tooth made in china years ago. I bought one they were $88 each. my machine would not even turn over using the 5 t gear, then I work it and got the machine turning. Only then I could why the gear bind up. You hear saying she can feel the gears >> there binding and causing major play at the bobbin, the bobbin is in correct for a 29-4 these are not 29k's. if put in as Robert mentions it again will not turn over it has to be as shown. it is the WRONG gear. I called the seller and got the "your the only one complaining " Thats Bullshit I did get mine to work, only by hand, slowly. peddling is to fast it will do the same as she shows. all this took place 5 yrs ago
hello.. tell me the arm with 10 teeth not the smallest but the longest.. I would like to know how long it measures... me it is almost 32 cm.. on the internet those for sale only measure 19 cm ..thank you
Un cordial saludo Me gusta mucho el video Es muy instructivo Mi nombre es Humberto pena Y le saludo desde el Salvador Tengo una máquina dé ésas Y me gustaría saber si puedo conseguir Repuestos para ésa máquina
hola Carolyn Liefeld yo tengo una Singer 29k1 y me corta el hilo no se cual puede ser el problema necesitó que me ayudes lo que esta roto es la ''Lengüeta Lanzadera'' no se si ese es el problema sobre telas cose bien pero en cuero o algo mas grueso se corta el hilo pienso que debe ser tensión pero yo no lo se. espero pronta respuesta GRACIAS
Javier, en caso de que no hayas notado Carolyn es Americana (Estados Unidos) y no creo que te contestara en español o en Ingles por que estoy casi seguro de que no entiende una sola palabra de lo que tu le escribistes. Yo Tengo una 29-4 de la misma serie 29 es similar a tu maquina, no soy un experto en la materia pero creo que lo primero que deberias hacer en cambiar la pieza que esta rota y despues podras ver la tension de la maquina que es una de las causas mas comunes de los problemas de hilo roto.
Javier fijate si algo obstruye el recorrido del hilo que no se enrriede luego la planchuela girala derepente rompio auja lija la escoria por donde dentra la auja recorra el orificio con un hilo cañamo y hecha aceite de motor de moto en la bobina de cualquier marca oh de corona de motocar que es mas espeso que el 3 en 1 de maquina tambien influye el filo del borde de la circunferencia de la bobina sobelo en una madera tambien fijate la posecion de la auja
Obiamente no es la tension. Lo que llamas lengueta lanzadera es la bobina, substituyela. Es obvio que al estar rota una parte, cuando es exigida la cocida por grosor o por dureza el hilo se troza.
Hello Carolyn, I have a 29-4 myself and seem to be unable to post to our Yahoo Group for some unknown reason? Anyway, would be willing to help out; you can email me via my profile here or look me up in the Yahoo Group list, my ID is the same. A couple things of note, these machines are really designed to be using 'waxed' thread, and do require a fair amount of lubrication to function correctly. Aside from that while small diameter threads are suitable they really need to be of a Heavy Duty nature. Not thread you would use in a household machine, generally speaking. Also those gears need "Grease" as well as oil on the rest of the moving parts... I find that unless my machine is fully lubricated, with grease where required, and oil in all other locations. It does not tend to operate smoothly. I did note a few other situations in your video, with regard to your bobbin/carrier tensioning set-up. The bar along the back is a "Spring" for the tension on the work at the foot; and it looks about right.
Hi, thanks for the info! Sorry for not responding earlier. I have achieved success with this machine but had to modify the shuttle carrier with my Dremel - a temporary fix. I know now that my machine can actually stitch. I am awaiting a new shuttle carrier, proper thread (as you suggested), and needles. After a significant amount of fiddling with the tension I am able to get it right but I find it to be so sensitive - one slight movement here or there and the whole stitch is thrown. Any suggestions? Do you know if the "spring" bar at the back is suppose to be an arched piece when removed from the machine? Mine has a significant curve to it that I can't tell is intended to work that way. I ask because I am having a small feeding problem as well when I have material of varying thicknesses (nothing too extreme really) in the stitch path. Also, when I grease the machine where else should I be greasing besides the gear box? Cheers.
Carolyn Liefeld Just spotted your reply, yes your shuttle is a bit worn I suspect I was hoping to do this all via email rather than a lengthy comment. I suspect when you get your new shuttle carrier, provided it is the proper one... since I note your cross referencing the 29K series which while Very Similar, is a different machine just make sure parts you get are for the 29-4 unless it is "Confirmed" to be compatible. It is my understanding some are not...
+scoutxlt Hello I have a 29K62 am having a hard time finding what parts to buy for my machine any help will help. you said that not all 29K machines will interchange parts I need parts for the head needle bar presser foot bar dose not feet with out help have replaced the presser foot spring it help but not a fix yet.. :David
+David Gillham The company I have dealt with in the past and found them to be Very Helpful is Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines Ltd, in OH. I recommend you google them; I am sure you will find the pertinent info. I tried to find a way to message you directly but don't seem to be able to so since I don't think it appropriate to post contact info on a public site... Either way that is the company name, although its been sometime since I have had cause to do business with them. They did stock both new reproduction parts and also a selection of quality original used parts all at what I felt were fair prices for out of production, better than hundred year old machines. Good luck in your endeavor...
I have the same problem and I'm struggling. I thing that the top thread, when it is caught by the bobbin carrier should slide under the bobbin carrier and loop around the bobbin and bobbin carrier. What is happening on your machine and mine is that the thread is being caught by the bobbin carrier but then trying to loop under the geared piece that carries the hooked bobbin carrier. Anyone who knows how to cure this I would be very grateful.
take the broken parts to a machine shop they can drill that and retap it it should work good as new sorry I'm getting old and I fogot I did that before good luck Happy Thanksgiving
Hi Carol I think you have too much play and your Bobben is interfering put a washer on top of the Bobben and it’ll keep it flat and it should run smooth the washer could be a little smaller than the Bobben I have a Chinese sewing machine and it kept breaking the thread because the Bobben was cocking to one side
Exacto, en ambos peines al parecer hay atraso de un diente. Pesima marcha, mucho desgaste. Juego barbaro en la bobina aparte hay que ver como esta el pico de la misma.
