Single Cheapest Way to Increase Fuel Mileage in 6.4 Powerstroke 

I would say nothing. Use OEM filters and don't try to "stretch" the time between changes-- the effects of that are far more costly than changing the filters at regular intervals.

@@USAF99 I change mine every 3 oil change... I don't know how long you suppose to change it

@@fernandosalgadojr.4269 Ford recommends every 20k miles for normal conditions, 10k miles for severe (towing, excessive idling, frequent stop/go traffic). I change mine every other oil change (so about 9-12k) and haven't had an issue. I would rather spend the money on filters than the money on injectors/fuel parts.

@@USAF99 yea mine is a tow truck and we drive them like crazy too... Thanks for the advice

@Cesar Estrada if there were two like buttons I would have hit them both on this comment. Spot on reply.

Keep up with the oil changes, fuel filters and get the emissions crap off of it ASAP and it will last you half a million miles or more! Congrats on the truck!

Vidal Alfaro and don’t run a hot tune!

Bro which sensor do you change map o máf

Update: buyer beware on BD Diesel products. I’ve ran their TSB for 4 months and it’s been back to them for “testing” and said it’s fine but last week when using it not only did it go into relearn mode like before but put my truck into limp mode in heavy traffic two hours away from home. Not good. Luckily when I made it to a safe place I disconnected it like before my truck ran flawlessly without it.

It's an aftermarket made by Standard Motor Products. Thank You!

The 6.4 is a bulletproof motor that will not fail you for a million miles if....and I emphasize IF the routine maintenance is kept up. From your list of upgrades, I would bet that your truck will last you at least 800k if you keep up with it. Personally, I do oil changes every 3500-4000 miles, fuel filters every other oil change, and coolant flushes every 10k. Keeping fresh fluids in them is priority #1. Priority 2 is on a tuned truck, don't turn them up. Its meant for hauling and working, not speed. It sounds like that's exactly what you do, haul and work with it. My honest opinion? It sounds like you have a recipe for a good truck that won't let you down. I'd probably put your worries to bed.

@@USAF99 Wow that was a quick reply. That is reassuring to hear. After dumping that kind of money into it, you can be sure that maintenance is being done. I even keep a journal of all maintenance. Thanks for your response.

@@jcapen1 my car fax app is the best for keeping a log :)

Good Deal! That little sensor is probably more tied to throttle response, but at the same time if you're only using half the pedal that you used to after cleaning-- MPG!

@@USAF99 absolutely. Next thing I will do is remove that back pressure line and clean her out. I love my 2008, it only has 69k, I live in Commiefornia so so no deleting, I need all the MPG as you stated lol many thanks for your help!

@@knewtboot I bet they love you out there in that-- you're gonna have to strap a AA battery under the hood in a few years and say it identifies as an EV aint ya?

I am here for all your efficient livestock chasing needs!

It runs like a champ, and you are absolutely correct. I have several in the pipeline I have been working on. Thanks for the comment and encouragement!

I forgot to say Duramax 6.6

Pretty much watch the videos on my channel. That sounds like a cheap reply, but I am after the same thing with my 6.4. I just turned 200k on it, and it runs like brand new. These motors get a bad rap because little johnny doesn't change his oil and fuel filters. You're kind of limited as to what you can remove as your truck will be on public roads. As mine is a farm truck, I can get rid of all the emissions crap that kills these motors.

An H&S Mini Maxx if you can find one. Delete options are there if you change in the future and the tunes will run in your current config well.

Apparently, The Mini Maxx is no longer couldn't keep up with Gov. Harrasmint and BullyDog has taken over its programs

OK I would like to see that as well

Check some of the diesel performance webpages, amazon etc. Just search 6.4 DPF delete kit. I will remind you, however, if your going to delete emissions parts the vehicle cannot travel on public roads- farm or race use only!

What they are and why its good to delete them? An EGR valve is explained by its name-- Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve. It recirculates exhaust gasses back into the intake for another combustion cycle. This is particularly bad in a diesel where that sooty exhaust, pre-DPF is going back into your intake. Exhaust soot gums stuff up, collects on valves, etc... The DPF is a Diesel Particulate Filter. It does just what it sounds like it does, it filters particulates out of the exhaust coming out of the engine, post turbo. What do filters do though? They get clogged over time. But you can't just get into the DPF and swap out elements, it has to have some kind of self clean-- which it does...kinda. The computer knows when its getting dirty and puts the truck in regen or regeneration. It will dump raw diesel fuel into the #7 and #8 cylinders on the exhaust stroke to be pushed out the exhaust and combust in the DPF....turning particulates into ash, which can then be blown out the exhaust. This is specifically harmful as the DPF doesn't get 100% clean on each regen cycle, and eventually the truck will continuously regen. THAT is bad because each time it regens, its washing down the cylinders with raw diesel fuel, eradicating the oil on the cylinder walls and eventually destroying the back two cylinders. Plus, it creates immense heat. Hope that helps!

That bad you might want to be looking for a dragging brake caliper or stuck open injector. Does it smoke? That's pretty bad mileage!

No sir. The tow button on your shifter and the tow program in your MM do the same thing.

That's almost impossible to diagnose over the internet. I would probably start by replacing the thermostats, they are cheap and easy. Follow that up with a coolant flush. I would also make sure that your A/C pump isn't locking up or dying putting more stress on the engine than normal. You would be hard pressed to overheat a diesel with just the A/C so I am betting you're having other issues.

Deleting these trucks is a must for any real life expectancy. The problem is, as your DPF fills with soot, the regen cycles happen more and more frequently. This washes down your #7 & 8 cylinders with fuel, which causes wear. Its not uncommon for a deleted 6.4 to go 600k + miles before a rebuild. Cleaning your sensors in the intake is a must on a non-deleted truck. Diesel Soot and oil mix together to create a tar that impedes the sensor's ability to do its job. That is most likely why you were able to pick up power and most likely fuel mileage after cleaning them. As far as your boost, no, that's not bad. It just means that now your ECM is using the sensors more effectively and managing the engine like its supposed to-- and you don't have a lead foot! I bet if you throw the beans to it that boost gauge will rise!

@@USAF99 thanks for the info. Delete just the DPF? ...or EGR as well?

@@mikegilbert944 totally up to you but the EGR after programming is essentially a restriction. It's better to delete both. Get a good quality delete kit and remove all that junk.

Sorry it took awhile to get back to you, I just happened to be scrolling through comments I hadn't replied to. If you haven't already, you may benefit from a custom tune more geared to your altitude. It's perfectly legal to tune a truck with the emissions still intact, especially in your case. Ford does a decent job of tuning for high altitudes, but there is absolutely room for improvement-- they can't tune for every situation or area if that makes sense.

Hey Jerry, First, I would start with a scan tool and see if you have stored codes, that will at least get you started in the right direction. As far as a regen, the truck will tell you on the dash when it's doing a regen. I can't remember if it dings at you too, I think so. I doubt the DPF is clogged, I would think you would run poorly all the time not sporadically. If you have a laptop and a USB - OBDII cable, download Forscan and read the codes. I'd be interested to see what we find stored.

Mini Maxx. Set to stock or pull I live in BC so when I go north I like Street just to pass the guys that are afraid of traveling with mountains. Sometimes theirs not a lot of room to pass. My Mini Maxx. Is still set at factories specs I may change the low-boost fuel to the number 2 from 3. It might lower that little bit of Black carbon on take-off at stop-and-go.

Eh, if it was completely bad you would probably get a CEL. If the rest of the things in the cycle (intake, other sensors, etc) are gummed up too, this procedure probably won't help.

You're in luck, that video is being edited today, probably up tomorrow!

Pull your air box, you'll find the sensor under the piping in the intake, passenger side.

I have a 2008 still factory and getting 16 to 17 miles per gallon . I run Roadmaster diesel don't idle it very much .Don't drive it on short trips . Seldom see it go into cleaning the filter .

mine is deleted and gets 11mpg.

I do. Its still operational.

First and foremost, remember its built for work not speed. Second, keep up with the fluids and filters on a schedule and don't exceed it. I change oil every 4-5k and fuel filters every other oil change. Coolant flushes every 8-10k. Every third oil change I take a sample and send it off to Blackstone Labs to have it analyzed for contaminants. $30 a sample is a small price to pay for catching problems before they cost you $15k (long block from ford). If you hear a noise or notice a problem while driving, address it immediately. Basic maintenance and upkeep will keep these trucks running and working for 600-800,000 miles but you have to be willing to maintain it. Also, turn that H&S back down to Stock or Street. In my opinion the higher tunes advance the timing way too much and you'll find the weak spot in that 6.4 real quick if you hot rod it. The only thing I use a tuner for is to keep the CEL off being off road only and deleted.

@@USAF99 sweet I needed that, what’s your option on keeping it idle while I’m stop at a store and short trips like that?

@@fontz379 short stops idling are okay, better to keep the oil flowing through the cooler and into the turbo than letting it sit in a hot turbo and cook. All day idling or hours idling, bad.

@@USAF99would you recommend a coolant filter for the 6.4?

@@fontz379 I have had the sinister diesel one on mine for awhile now- what ill tell you is this- I don't see a temperature differential between oil temp and coolant temp of more than 9 degrees on a 186k mile truck. Do with that information what you like!

It has probably always done that, just now you're paying attention to it looking at boost after doing maintenance. Nothing to worry about.

@@USAF99 I usually tried to pay attention to it since people says we should wait a few seconds before turning it off to make sure the boost is down and the turbo is done spinning. So you think is fine to shut the engine off without the boost being at 0?

@@juansebastianlopez8828 I'll race you for money peasant

Believe it or not, it actually went DOWN. Once I finish this emergency kitchen re-model, I am going to dive into it and figure it out. Not sure what the deal is. I have a feeling the tune was erased. Ill make a follow up video soon.

Let me do some research and try to recreate the issue on my truck. I have an idea what it might be but I want to verify first so you aren't buying unnecessary parts. I'll get back to you.

USAF99 thank you so much buddy I’ve been looking at your videos hopefully ran into an issue like that not that I want you to run into an issue like that but I’ve had no luck yet

@@raulvalles7338 So, here's what I want you to do. Check fuel pressure under a load. It should not be below 40 at any time. If it is, you have a fuel restriction somewhere or your HPFP is going/gone bad. Don't just check fuel pressure at idle, that will give you a false positive. Check it while you are driving it, I have seen guys hook the gauge up to the mirror where they can see it and then drive the truck from a stop to 30-40 MPH at wide open throttle. If your fuel pressure stays above 40 during all that, we will continue to diagnose.

I drove it out of town yesterday had no issues at all I found a sensor disconnected to the throttlebody where the air filter is at The only thing now when it’s on regen mode on the screen in the dash panel It’ll take forever to clean the exhaust so I’m thinking of a DPF delete

@@raulvalles7338 Its more than likely filling up and getting clogged or close to clogged. If you don't want to delete it, you can remove the DPF and have it cleaned as long as there is a shop in your area that can do it. You might check around to see if there is in the interim while you decide if you want to delete it or not. Glad you found the problem, I was going to say pedal position sensor initially but then wanted to see if you were getting adequate fuel pressure first.

So, if it's not throwing any codes and runs fine, the tune most likely still loaded to the truck. They may have thought they got one over on you but the joke is on them....the tuner won't work in any other truck until they uninstall the tune from your truck...something you're not going to let them do. You should be good for now unless you start swapping computers.

@@USAF99 so i bought this truck i was dumb about it i found out about all the bad things people talk about, but it throws no codes and runs nice only thing is sometimes on take off it sounds like a bus or like it was geard low but rpms r fine i guess it sounds like a bus its not a hiss but once i put a new turner on it it should be ok u think? im sorry all the negitive stuff has me worried i have tons of questions the salesman of course told me what i wanted to hear!

@@patrickmcguire3673 You have what's called a compound turbo- that's the "bus" sound you're hearing. Its normal. Wait till you're standing next to the exhaust on start up and it sounds like a jet starting up. These trucks with the 6.4 aren't bad, the negatives can be mitigated by taking care of the truck. Keep up on the fluids, keep an eye on the mechanicals and don't drive it like an idiot and you'll be fine. These trucks are designed to work, not hot rod.

@@USAF99 buddy you made my day this is why i love vets there the salt of the earth! thanks so much and i will take great care now that i know what is goin on! i will be watching your channel religiously and fyi thats what i bought it for is to tow i have a small shippig compamny i had a duramax and loved it but got caught in the riots in new york and they used it like a roman candle! thanks again

@@patrickmcguire3673 Appreciate the support!

P179A is usually power loss to the turbo actuator. Refer to the wiring diagram for correct voltage with KOEO and which wire it is. Trace back to see if it's broken anywhere.

One is the MAP the other is the IAT or Intake Air Temp.

@@USAF99 Thank you sir!

Honestly Jose, you're kinda screwed in Cali. There are really two options for your truck, either replace the DPF or have it cleaned. Either one stinks but with the tight emissions laws and inspections there, that's about all you can do. Whichever you decide, I would do them soon because the back two cylinders in your truck are most likely being destroyed by the multiple regens a day.

@@USAF99 thanks for your advice!! But I got the dpf cleaned up about 5 months ago and I already changed sensors that could be replaced and still have the check engine light came on too

I meant to ask you and completely forgot-- what were the codes stored in the ECU? If your DPF is clean you may have a bad after DPF pyro sensor. It's reading wrong so the truck thinks it needs a regen. I would be interested to see what your codes are. Apologies for not getting back to you sooner!

@@USAF99 thanks for answering I took my truck to a different mechanic and he said the dpf sensor that was on it wasn’t from the Ford dealership when the mechanic always said it was, so now with this new sensor the truck seems to finally be fixed!

@@josegpazc Good deal because those regens were killing the back two cylinders!

But hey, we're building back better...😂

@@USAF99 for him and his cronies.

Si pregunta si 15 millas por galón es normal, realmente depende. Eso no es genial, pero tampoco terrible. Lo siento, estoy usando el Traductor de Google para responderte.

@@USAF99 😆🤣👍 mui bien perfect 15mpg. Is good ok you wan using for hard work gives 11mpg to me is perfect. Is 6.4 is big engine hp delete EGR DELETE DPF I THINK 6.4 IS GOOD ENGINE

Esta bien. Ponle un motor Cummings. Y te Dara mui buen rendimiento. D 18 millas a 25 millas por galon

papa 13. Lv raiders Cheap parts... they will break eventually. Do it right the first time and be done with it. I say the from experience