You can't really solve the infiltration air problem with single hose units, but you can pretty easily solve the issues with a dual hose unit by insulating the hoses and taping the joints.
The first one, there are two ways: 1. Add a second hose by covering the vent with some prepared sealed box that has the hose connected to it (basically conversion to dual hose) 2. Put the single hose unit outside and blow the air into the house, some single hose units allow to switch the sides and if not, it is possible to mod the front vent to add pipe as well. 3. Basically the first except that a permanent modification is made by altering the casing to "hard-mod" the hose in
PiotrK yeah, I thought you might go there. Modifying a single hose unit into a dual hose unit doesn’t really solve the single hose problem, it sidesteps it completely. It’s a fine workaround, it just doesn’t “solve” the physics problem of a single hose unit. The idea of placing the unit outside and running it in reverse is really cool, and maybe it qualifies as a single hose solution. It still shouldn’t be as efficient in theory as a dual hose since you are having to cool hot outside air instead of recirculating already cool inside air.
There is one thing that this video fails to mention. It is my understanding that for the same SACC / DOE BTU, the single-hose units use a lot more electrical power than an equivalent SACC / DOE BTU dual-hose unit. For example, a 1200 watt single-hose unit produces 5200 DOE BTU, whereas a 1200 watt dual-hose unit produces 8600 DOE BTU!
Both types are crap that's why I have a mini split at the end of the day if you don't have a split system then neither of these are really good really did you only good for temporary spot cooling.
Wow, seriously? Then this video is worse than worthless. It's just 10 minutes of blabbering about optimizing the wrong metric to the detriment of what really matters.
@@هشامزايدي-غ3ر yeah it would work since it is like having a window ac ..not as strong but at least the compressor that has a lot of heat is not inside your room..also cover the portable ac since it is very fragile body having outside in the sun
Why are single hose units even legal, what a waste of energy, it would be like leaving the window open every time you turned up your thermostat, or down your AC for that matter, what idiots, those people should be fined heavily for even making them. If WV can be fined for not meting efficiency and pollution standards then these guys can certainly get fined for building this absolute garbage.
I don' t think that he understands refrigeration concepts. I have been a manager for 2 HVAC companies. A dual hose unit will always be more efficient. He tested one dual unit that is technically not a complete dual hose, as he admits. Once you seal and insulate both hoses it will be much more efficient. He also doesn't understand that a single hose unit is exhausting air that it has already cooled. Time for him to go back to school.
Despite all those physics in favor of dual-hose units, what if they fail to outperform single-hose units in real world scenarios for other reasons? Also, what kind of insulation would you recommend for the hoses?
@@toddhughes4745 I looked into this before and a lot of the insulation methods used fiberglass, which apparently you should avoid being around too much? Thanks, hadn't heard of insulation tape.
My thoughts too. Not only is the single hose way inefficient but it also creates a pressure difference between the inside room and the outside environment. As long you can properly seal and insulate the two hoses. The inefficiencies of the dual hose will be lesser.
By looking at a particular model's SACC and CEER we can now evaluate its efficiency independent of form factor (single vs dual hose). Calculating either one of these metrics requires rigorous testing and mathematics. See appendix CC at the link below: www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/retrieveECFR?gp=&SID=83f8e5ba7502cb6f0b2803f5b3a467d3&mc=true&r=PART&n=pt10.3.430#ap10.3.430_127.cc
Bizarre review. I had a 10,000 BTU single hose PAC and it couldn't even cool down a 200 sf room. The amount of air it was evacuating was ridiculous. It was probably something like 200 cfm. At that rate the entire room's air is completely turned over in about 10 minutes. There's no way to cool the room. And since the cool out vent is in the proximity of the condenser intake fan and exhaust, the cooled air is the first to get evacuated out of the room. I don't even understand why they still sell these.
The problem is that you're using the single hose unit when it's hot outside. The SACC calcs assume that their is a 5.4F, on average, temperature differential between the inside and outside. The portable AC manufacturers had a big hand in coming up with that number.
@@youtubewatcher4603 I've run a single hose gree for the last 5 years and I can get it down to below 70 here in Wyoming with upper 90s to low 100s and this in a west facing living room with a big picture window. How well a single hose works all depends on the manufacturer.
@@10th_Doctor A single hose that is powerful will technically work. But all of the air that gets blown outside causes the same amount of really hot air to get sucked back inside. The air may end up being sucked into a different room of your house causing a different area of your house to heat up a little. A dual hose portable AC system is a lot more efficient. The bigger the temp differential between inside and outside, the more efficient it is.
@@youtubewatcher4603 Welll ... except it didn't. I have two windows in my apartment. The living room one which faces west, and the bedroom one which faces east. Both windows are always closed in the summer and it sits in the living room blowing the air out of the living room window. After 5 years of using this I know what it can do. I am currently using it right now and it is 70F inside right here at my computer desk as measured by my Lacrosse Wireless forecast station. Outside, my western outdoor sensor in the shade, because having it in the sun gives inaccurate readings, is reading 87F. I get similar results when the temps are in the upper 90s outside or even 100s which happens here for days at a time. The bedroom certainly doesn't get hot due to "air being pulled in" and the compressors doesn't run all the time which would happen if hot air were being pulled in from the living room windows. But let's talk about cost. A dual hose is almost always twice the cost of a single hose unit. Who is going to pay the extra for someone like me on a fixed income? I use it because having to lug out a heavy window unit ac twice a year is not good for me due to my back issues and leaving it in place year round is not a good idea due to how freaking cold we get in the winter. A plywood panel needed to close the gap the window unit doesn't fill is not good when it gets bone chilling cold.
@@10th_Doctor If air is being blown outside using that single hose, then air is seeping back into your place from somewhere else. That is a fact. The specifics of your apartment greatly affects where the air is seeping in from and how it affects the temperature in your place. If I were in your position, I would not buy a new AC unit either. If you have one that works keep on using it. AC units are expensive and I'm not claiming that you would save enough money to justify a new one. But dual hose units are not twice the price of single hose ones; I agree they do cost more. But twice the price? They're not charging by the hose. And I think that window units are better in every aspect (cost, noise, efficiency) except portability. If you're only going to use it a couple of weeks a year, don't get one. You don't need to convince me of that. We had a couple of those weather stations with remote temperature sensors. When in the sun the temp readings were comically high. They better in the shade, but they still always seemed to read high. No one in my family actually used them for the outdoor temps.
This video makes it seem like the losses due to the way a single hose unit sucks out the air that it already used energy to cool to then cool itself, thus bringing in massive amounts of outside warm air is *remotely* close to the minor loses of convective heat from short 5 foot hoses and a couple extra leaks. The inefficiencies of a single hose unit are *orders of magnitude* greater than the marginal increases in small heat gains from a dual hose system. I can't fathom why you would want to defend terribly designed single hose units, unless you are paid by their manufacturers to shill for them. You should always purchase a dual hose unit, as that is the same operating principle as split units (traditional whole-home) and most American style "sit-in-the-windows" units.
If you got a portable AC just for 1 room and always stays there, try and wrap the exhaust hose in as much duct insulation as possible. It makes a huge difference. It won't look pretty, but it works.
@@SuffocatedByThighs I bought this long strip of cable management wrapping, cut off a section for my computer cables, and used the rest to wrap around my exhaust vent: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TZPYHV/
I don’t care about how duct look since the older mini spilt that didn’t have a plastic cover like ductless also have duct that look as ugly. I have no choice in my apartment so this tip would be helpful since portable ac is my only option.
dude, check your physics, radiation power of hose with outside air is nowhere near numbers of thermal power of that same air itself. Also we can assume, that intake hose will have much lower temp gradient with room air temp compared to outtake hose. Two hose system is vastly superior to single hose system in efficiency.
In theory, but all the highest EER rated portable aircos are single hose as far as I can see. Unless you can point out some units that are available in the EU that are more effcient than the LG/Delonghi sinlge hose systems.
The new single hose units hit SACC of 10K out of a nominal 14K now by ramping up the condenser temperature and taking advantage of the cooler room air in smaller volumes. Dual hose units has to cool the hot side with hot recirculating exhaust air and the cool side is either warm or uses a lot more power to get it as cool as a single hose. In hot days, dual hose units can really struggle!
@@_exilon_ in hot days single hose ac suck hot air from outside into house. You can not achieve higher efficiency to cool air in united space than in separated spaces. Dual hose system is close to split system. And I hope, you will not try to claim, that split system is struggling, right?
Lots of talking, theories and explanations, but I believe you never really compared in "real life" a single hose vs dual hose. The amount of hot air that single hose sucks into the room is vastly more detrimental than the leaks and heat radiation from an extra hose, there is simple no comparison. Just close the room door and place you hand or foot in the joints between the door and the door frame and you will feel the air blowing inside in great amounts, so you are blowing out cold air all the time creating vacuum in the room, and then sucking in hot air all the time, so you really never end to cool the room, as the situation is equivalent to try to cool a room with the door open, we all know how difficult that can be. . And that is a unsolvable flaw on the single hose units. Is true that outside air wont cool the condenser as quickly, but it does not really matter is this situation. Besides don't forget that windows air conditioners get cooled with the outside air, and sometimes even get hit by the sun directly and still work well. If you can intake enough air flow you will cool the condenser enough to allow him to work efficiently even with the outside hot air. Your statements are simply ridiculous. I believe you have some interest in promoting single hose units, probably from the brands you mentioned. I could send you the heat transfer equations and calculations but I don't have time for that. Even more I converted a single hose to dual hose and results were immediately outstanding, cooling the room lot lot faster.
Exactly. Physic here is ruthless. Possibility that heat brought by infiltration air is equal to radiation+leakage heat of dual hose system is total physical bullshit. Even with 100% heat transfer efficiency between intake air and hose, it will be only equal and 100% heat transfer is another physical nonsense. And ability od 2hose systems to isolate room/house from outside air is main advantage for everyone purse. You can actually cool room enough to turn AC off, because with well insulated house, you will get several hours (ie whole night) at convenient temperatures. This is impossible for 1H system and they have waay large electricity consumption to be running non-stop.
U seem to know alot about conditioners so I have a question for you if you dont mind. Can I split my cooled air via tubes to two different rooms? I want this because I have 1 unit and 2 rooms I'd like to cool. Thankss
@@codfreak1994 I assuming you are talking about portable AC right? Then I do not recommended it. First you would have to make some DIY adapter from AC cold air outtake which is most probably square or rectangle. And then there is second problem. Static pressure of axial fan of AC. Axial fans have poor static pressure and any obstacle in airflow would diminish its efficiency and airflow significantly. And when you add long path (5-10 meters) of cold air tubes, it will be such obstacle, that airflow will be almost nonexistent. There will be one way although. You can add inline axial fan into end of the hoses with minimal airflow calculated by this formula (AC Airflow) × sqrt(((Area of AC outtake)×(Length of Hose)/((Hose cross section×5))). (That number 5 is typical static pressure difference between 125mm inline fan and 300mm axial fan). But I am warning you, longer your hose, stronger inline fan will be needed. So it will be also noisy solution. But it will work, because inline fan will compensate hose drag.
@@tomascernak6112 Thanks for the reply man! Portable yes. My situation is like this: imgur.com/v7oyaGe Id like to cool both rooms at night, I have a single hose (wich is ok, because air from outside is colder then inside(im top floor of an appartment complex and heat is in the roof/walls etc)) I think if this solution works it'll be the most efficient, otherwise ill have to cool my whole appartment wich will cost more money/power etc. I'm quite a good DIY-guy so Im gonna try. If your interessted I can tell you how it went. Again thanks for the info!
@@codfreak1994 These distances are even worse than I anticipated. Airflow of cold air will be absolutely miserable. Do your best, but be ready that you will have to install inline fans into those hoses. I wish you luck in your DIY efforts. I will be glad to hear about result.
in practice, these devices are good only for sleeping at night. I have a single hose and I adapted it for dual hose and ended the problem of negative pressure and waste of refrigerated air.
Yes, two units with the same SACC will have the same "cooling potential" - but a dual hose design will do it whilst consuming significantly less power, and potentially while being a physically smaller and quieter unit. A single hose design will also heat up other parts of the house, by drawing hot air into them from outside. To claim that the two designs are the same because one of the stats on the box accounts for the fact that one design is shit, is highly misleading.
Not only that, but a little bit of tape and an insulating sleeve for the hoses and all the issues he talked on a dual hose unit are gone. Once you go dual hose you never go back to a single hose unit.
@@Gamerdu45 It intakes air from outside, which makes them more quiet. I have 2 portable AC's in my apartment, 10000 BTU SACC each and my dual hose ones quieter, I can feel the air more from the single hose one, but my dual hose one cools things more evenly, plus it helps with air pressure. I keep my single hose one in my bedroom because its a smaller room so it can take advantage of the colder air and I use my dual one along with it in the daytime (or when theres a really bad heatwave ill use both 24/7) to keep my whole place cool. This guy in the video clearly had a bias against dual hose ones because even though the title of the video makes it seem like its a comparison, in truth the whole video was him trying to convince people not to buy them. If you live somewhere like where I am in Canada: where it gets hot and stuffy indoors in the summer but still has cool breezy air outside, then you're actually better off getting a dual hose one. I only bought my single hosed one last summer because it was 40 celsius for like a week or 2.....
You would have to have lots of insulation to keep that cool air from warming up before it goes inside, you might even have to take it apart and insulate the areas where the cold air is produced if you're in a really hot area@@هشامزايدي-غ3ر
I'd like to see measurements from a dual-hose AC first with the intake hose connected and then with the intake hose not connected. This way we aren't comparing apples to oranges
I don't understand your complaint about using outdoor air to cool the condenser. Ultimately, you are moving heat from one place to another. Don't top end, central AC use outdoor air to cool the condenser? Really, a portable dual hose system functions the same as a non-portable system, except it moves outdoor air a distance instead of moving the refrigerant a distance. Please let me know if I am missing something here.
I have a dual hose and single hose air conditioner. The dual hose works to cool whatever room it is in. The single hose is only a spot cooler that I use in a small den that blows cold air on me when at my desk. Single hose is basically a fancy fan that only cools you down if you are right in front of it.
I have this single hose unit and it cools my 600sqft two-car garage perfectly fine. The garage door is standard without insulation on the back of the garage door panels and there's a laundry room that has the door open all of the time and there's a slotted closet door where the water heater is located and there's a cat door leading into the house... so the garage is FAR from "sealed/insulated"...so even with the negative pressure drawing in air from multiple places and the fact that I'm in GA during 90+ degree humid summers; my garage has gone from 85° to a comfortable 75°.... This single hose AC unit is fantastic and blows out air that is a crisp, cool 55° ...it has a heating function and a dehumidifier all in one. www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.lowes.com/pd/GE-8000-BTU-Portable-Heat-Cool/5000143967&ved=2ahUKEwiNqfG9l5HyAhXVTTABHTFtCwoQFjAAegQIBhAC&usg=AOvVaw2z-IXaA84IntndC11IbrZ6 I'm in the process of upgrading to the dual hose attachment and expect at least a consistent 72°.
@@Thomas998822 I am happy for you, but if it was a dual hose it would work much better at cooling and would use less power. It is just science and physics.
@@jonlee5642 maybe so. It definitely runs non-stop, and I can hear it cycle off and on (while still running). I'm not sure what technically is kicking on and off into overdrive. Nonetheless I only use it for several hours a day, 3-5 days a week in the summer, and it hasn't shown any signs of slowing down yet. It still keeps the garage in the low 70s which is good enough for me. I'm sure the dual hose attachment will make it more efficient, so it's certainly powerful enough for my needs. I'll swap it out with a brand new machine in a couple years for free so I'm not worried about wearing the unit down long term.
@@Thomas998822 more likely you ac has a sensor ..if you are asking it to cool it at a certain temp..it will keep working until it keeps that temp you want it at and hence it is powering up and down all the time
My ARC-14S is the best portable ac I've ever had by far. Single hose is obviously gonna pull more air in from outside by creating a vacuum in the room.
I does not matter how big your portable A/C is, if you have an area / room that is a challenge to cool when temperatures are going to be over 90*F outside, then take note. Treat your portable A/C like a under-powered car driving up a steep hill. Just like when we were kids on a bike, you would get a running start and build up speed to conquer that steep hill. Same thing apply's with portable A/C units. You need to cool your living space as early in the morning as you can get it (60-65*F). The cooler the area is, the easier it is to "keep it cool" during the peak time of the day when temperatures outside are the hottest (usually 3-5pm). If you turn on the A/C after is has warmed up in your home (over 80*f), it will be much harder to bring the temps down to a comfortable level.
Another point to consider is if the unit us used in a condo or MURB building. With a single hose unit much of the air will be pulled in from the hallway rather than the outside. If the hallway is cooled and ventilated, then that would make the single hose unit perform better.
There’s no way that math works out that the cool air that you’re throwing up the window is making your air conditioner more efficient unless you’re sucking that cold air from another air conditioner
Dude, you are REALLY missing the boat here. Stop fixating on RADIATED HEAT, OMG! The heating effect is not NEARLY as strong as you seem to think. A double hose unit is VASTLY more efficient and effective than a single.
I'm not sure what it is with refrigeration concepts but so many people are confused, can't grasp the basics and go on spreading misinformation, including this guy.
I have small apartment wher i cant install normal ac and i bought single hose portable ac and it works very good. You just have to insulate the exhaust hose and maybe use normal fan to help the cold air stay where you sleeping other than that i dropped from 30 degrees hot to 21 in one hour.
You drastically undermined the difference between infiltration air scenarios and used a dual hose model that allows for infiltration... A single hose must bring in an equal amount of heat into the house as it's removing. In theory, you would be correct that they cool a specific 3-400sq ft area based on SACC, in practice I would say you failed to point out that you're heating up the rest of the house... You kept saying "Performance" but I think you mean cooling capacity, in which case yes, the SACC fully accounts for the AC's regional cooling capacity but SACC utterly ignores that with a Single hose you adding tons of heat to the other 800sq ft of your home and the Dual largely doesn't, and that's pretty huge in terms of efficiency. SACC measures cooling capacity for a given area not the energy burden on your household (which is arguably more important to most people).
I agree. On top of that, think about the super heater attic air that will be pulled in around light fixtures. Newer construction may seal them, but older ones didn't bother. Both houses I owned were built in 1970 and 1965 and around the light fixture boxes none of the holes were sealed and not even caulked around. Doesn't take much 140+ degree air pulled in from those single hose units to offset the cooling on the unit. I sealed mine but I bet many people haven't thought of it. I purchased a single hose for emergency use without even considering the issue. I really wouldn't think engineers would design a unit with such a flaw, yet they did.
SACC fully accounts for the infiltrating air. But it assumes that the infiltrating is only 5.4F, on average, warmer than the air inside of your home, which is complete crap. The calcs assume your home is at 80F and that the outside air is 83F 80% of the time and 95F 20%.
@@youtubewatcher4603 I agree! I've had both dual & single hose units. In terms of performance / efficiency, the SACC is not nearly as accurate as the SEER rating. I may have a bias because I'm in Vegas where 4 months of the year beat 100 degrees, but it's important to know that Cooling Capacity and energy burden are much more different than this youtuber seems to realize.
@@youtubewatcher4603 - a lot of people use portable units for a hot room ( usually on a higher floor and facing the sun) . Outside temp can be 70F but 84F in the room for example. For a home with a basement window, crack it open will draw cooler air.
There is one additional measure that consumers should account for. That is electrical efficiency to reach SACC values. Take two or more units with relatively similar SACC values and one uses 85 watts less power. This SACC to Power Usage rating can save users real money through power efficiency.
1. The energy caused by convention heat from the INtake hose (holding outside temp) on a dual hose unit is nowhere NEAR the energy of the air (holding outside temp) pullled directly into the room by a single hose unit. Both versions have an exhaust hose, so there is no difference there in convection heat (unless one hose is more insulated than the other or shorter of course), but for sure it helps a bit to insulate this extremely hot hose on both variants AND keep it as short as possible to minimize convection surface.
Using a single hose unit in, say, a closed bedroom will draw air from the room and, therefore, the rest of the house (from under the door). A dual hose unit works more like a window unit or a central unit--both of which cool the condenser with outside air.
Oh wow! Thanks for explaining this! I do feel the lower pressure when I try to close my door it's like it doesn't want to shut when the AC unit is running, and I didn't fully understand the reason for that! Basically my room is turning into a giant vacuum.
I am using two single hose portable AC units in an apartment. I found the dual hose unit to b overly complicated to install in my particular situation. I found with the single hose units they are doing a great job at cooling the place. On these units the hose diameter is 5.9 inches. They are used at about 4 feet long. I made sure there were no air leaks between inside and outside. These units are 10,000 BTU each. One of these AC units is easily able to cool a room area of 400 square feet. I put a standing floor fan about 2 feet in front of the AC unit to boost the velocity of the air from the AC unit. This shoots the cold air across the room.
Excellent explanation of this whole business. I'm a renter and can't mess with a traditional window AC, so I'm going to get a single hose portable AC and put it outside(!) next to the window. I'll put some kind of adapter over the main air intake and run a duct through the window to suck air in from inside the house and put a similar adapter on the cool air output and duct it into the room. Then it'll function like a regular window AC, no negative pressure will result, and there will be no hot ducts inside. My main problem is humidity (tropical climate) so I'm hoping the outside air will be enough to cool the condenser. At least now I kinda know what I'm doing.... Thanks.
thanks for sharing. so your hot exhaust pipe goes out the window. intake of air you duct it from outside the room you are in and inside the room, you let the cool air out. Did i get that right?
@@Shontaku I would prefer "unquestionably wrong", "utterly wrong", "dead wrong", or "completely and without any possibility otherwise, wrong" Or better yet, "horribly wrong." That's my favorite. I shall now go and hang my head is shame.
the goal of the ac is to keep cool air in the room, pulling in hot air that will rise and using the cool air you just made to blow out the window is a massive waste of energy and wont ever cool the room you will have the AC running constantly so you can sit in front of it and never have a room actually cooled. insulate the hoses and seal any gaps and place the unit close to the window port to minimize hose length, at least this way you actually have the damn thing do what it is intended to do an that is make the room comfortable.
There is a lot of mistakes in this video. Sir, I honestly appreciate your efforts here but I must confess you need to learn more about 'portable air conditioners' before you talk about them. Here are your mistakes 1. Dual hose units are less efficient than single hose units (Actually it is the opposite) 2. A single hose unit blows heat out the single hose but a dual hose unit blows heat through the two hoses ( Dual hoses units don't blow heat through the two hoses. One hose exhausts hot air out and the other draws cool air into the condenser for cooling. And even thou outdoor air may be warm but it looses some amount of heat when it gets drawn into the hose to the condenser for cooling. I hope we all learnt from each other. Thank you🙏
Absolutely. If you can afford it and you're able to install it in your home, a mini split is a much better more efficient option than either a single or dual hose portable AC.
Single hose air conditioners simply don't have a plastic fitting for a hose on the intake for the condenser heat exchanger. Some people have duct taped a duct to that intake to make their single hose air conditioner into a dual hose air conditioner. As to the dual hose having two hoses radiating heat, only one is an exhaust hose, the other is an intake but it is pulling in outdoor air and this is the same volume of outside air that will infiltrate in with a single hose so it not more heat then the single hose, it's just that that outdoir air brought in is only in tenporarily with the dual hose as it's then pumped out the other hose whereas with a single hose, all that extra outdoor air doesn't just have some radiating off a hose but just all of it stays in the house. Sure you will feel heat radiating off that hose but it's a fraction of what the single hose pulls in through infiltration. You do need to look at how outdoor air infiltrates into your home, is it through the cracks around doors and windows or does your home have a fresh air intake that ducts into your basement by your furnace as the basement would cool such air. If you have the latter then a single hose may be just fine. Now if you live in an aparrment, you should seriously consider a dual hose or duct taping a hose onto the compressor intake vent (make sure you figure out which is the condenser intake and which is the evaporator intake).
I bought a Hisense 12000btu single hose and made an adaptation for the compressor refrigeration inlet hose made on the 3d printer. I wrapped the two ducts with a foam blanket and I can say that the efficiency has increased by 50 percent, now it turns on and off and with one duct this didn't happen, meaning I will save energy. It also depends a lot on the air conditioning model.
The first thing is to take the intake hose off and plug the window hole for the intake 😮 then you will be using the cooler air from inside your house, just like using the recirculation button in your cars ac and if you know how that works??? It made a huge difference with my unit and now it's nice and cool 😎
"Hot air does find its way into the room." Actually it is being invited in, because the window adapter is holding the window part open, preventing the weather strip on the moving frame from mating with the frame. That means even with the unit turned off, hot air is drifting into the room, unless you want to remove the hose adapter from the window every hour, and shut the window. They should at least come with a foam sausage to seal the gap.
As it's basically a fridge, any leak or bad insulation will do harm. And you'd never cool the condenser with air from inside. At some conditions, the system gets inefficient, but a single hose only makes it worse.
I understand what people are saying when they mention physics. People need to realize that the SSAC is measured using physics too. Some of the negatives listed with dual hose designs are minimal. The intake air hose is usually just barely warm to the touch and the extra leaks is very minimal. Technically a two hose design should be better but there is much more to it. I had a Haier 12,000 2 hose unit that cooled less than a 5,000 BTW window ac that it was replaced with. Because it is a dual hose design doesn't mean that it is any better. We all know the "MAX A/C" settings on cars work the best. It mainly recirculates the already cooled air which is much more efficient. That isn't the only factor though. A good working compressor, fan, ducting system, condenser and evaporator are all parts too. My car's A/C letting if fresh air will outperform another vehicles using recirculated air if their system isn't fully charged or if their condenser is clogged with leaves, or if the vehicle is stopped and their condenser fans aren't spinning up to speed or if their A/C clutch is slipping. The LG's SACC goes from 14,000 BTU to 10,000 because it is like a car using fresh air while my old Haier went from 12,000 BTU to 5,000 BTU because it is like a car with other inefficiencies despite using recirculated air. Oh, that guy that claimed to be an astrophysicist, brain surgeon and astronaut is full of more shit than a filled septic tank.
There is no way that the heat radiated from the 2nd hose(condenser intake) is equal to the infiltration from not having a second hose. And what heat is radiated can be minimised by insulating the hose. Both hoses should be insulated. Believe what you want, you will anyway. Have a great day.
@@PaulRosberg The window AC is NOT pumping air into the space! A window AC is equivalent to the dual-hose system, entirely using outside air to cool the condenser.
Does sacc account for the temperature of the rooms on the other side of the house? If it did dual hose would be better right? You could insulate the hoses right?
SACC does account for the infiltration air on the other side of the house. However, the calculations assume that there is not a big temperature differential between inside/outside. It assumes an average of a 5.4F difference between inside and outside or a 3F difference (80 to 83F) 80% of the time and a 15F difference (80 to 95F) 20% of the time. The bigger the temperature differential between inside/outside, the better dual hose systems are.
My parents central air is a joke it doesn't cool a thing the lowest I seen it cool is 78 degrees if that and I would like it at least 70 to 72 my dad is 73 years old and thats just too hot it's a town home apartment but it's the downstairs that needs to be cooled more than anything I ask would you highly recommend the Whynter ARC-14S? The downstairs is close to 500 sq ft so I know a 14000 btu will do the job but will this specific unit being a dual hose do the job?
What if you draw the air that cools the condenser not from the outside air but from an adjacent basement that remains cool even in summer. A two hose unit would allow you to tap the air in your cool basement and thus use "geothermal" cooling to precondition the cooling air for the condenser and thus make the unit more efficient. One hose would vent hot air to the outside while the other hose would tap "geothermally" cooled air from your basement..
Since it was never mentioned in the video, for the issue of the exhaust hose radiating heat back into the room, you can just buy duct wrap and wrap it around the exhaust hose. This helps to insulate the hose and keep the heat from radiating back into the room.
thank you very much for considering that dual hose is not automatically better. i just got a coolzy pro and am wondering why people still think single hose is good, it must be due to other factors different from other people.
As an engineer I appreciate your straightforward technical analysis. Most of this is a "first world problem." I grew up in the 60s, zero air conditioning in the house. I lived. I will be looking at your channel for the 4-in-1, as I will need a supplemental source of heat. I am also considering whether or not to put in a vented propane heater, wood stove, but it all comes down to money versus comfort versus reliability. Much of this is a pay me now, pay me later situation. It comes down to price per BTU added or removed. My main concern in a remote building is reliability and longevity of the system. I'm less concerned with how much powered will spend, more interested in a suitable unit that doesn't break the bank, will taste good last a long time.
An additional concern about single-hose units: because they exchange air with the outside, things you don't want from the outside air are going to come in. Given that it is currently wildfire season, this is especially relevant. A well-sealed dual-hose unit won't let anywhere near as much smoke in. A window unit or a central heat pump is obviously better for all of these concerns, of course.
Are you thats a single hose unit and not dual hose? Single hose dont exchange air with the outside. It pulls inside air from your house and exhausts it out by cooling it. Dual hose is are the units that pulls air in from the outside.
@@441meatloaf No, single hose units require the hot air it blows out of the house to be replaced as it causes negative pressure inside, thus hot air from outside is drawn in. Dual hose units solve this problem entirely as they take the air directly from outside to cool the unit instead of using the cooler air from inside, which makes the unit less efficient as it's consuming the just cooled air of inside to cool the unit.
i wonder if this could work: what if i put the machine outside my room and i stick a duct to the cool air exit from the AC and take it to my room, i think in that way could work as a window AC unit
Let me tell you something..when it says 8000 BTU ...then it comes into the USA..it is turned into SACC..The Numbers are Lower,like 5100 btu/sacc...Keeping a Kean Eye on those...Lowe had a 10,000 BTU/SACC but it converted into 16,000 BTU without the SACC conversion. AireMax-115-Volt-White-Vented-Portable-Air-Conditioner at lowe and look at the photos. This one is rated for 16,000 BTU but Lowe was selling the lower end of the Numbers ( The SACC ),which it is at 10,000...look at the Reviews for that AC and look at the Box...it will say 16,000 BTU but not BTU/SACC. This is how I figured this out.....I bought a 8,000 BTU AC from Amazon and the Aire on the same day and got both boxes.....then one box says 16,000 BTU and the other says 8,000 BTU...but the energy label is showing 5100 btu/sacc.
What if you live in a hot city like Pheonix or Las Vegas, or a humid and hot city like Miami or Houston? Since the inside of a portable a/c is metal, plastic and wiring, I would think you wouldn’t want super hot air and/or lots of humidity going into the unit. 🤔 The most important thing really is to ignore the ASHRAE rating and look at the DOE SACC rating instead, which takes into account the inefficiency of a portable a/c. If you want to cool a big room, like a master bedroom, you want a SACC rating of around 7,500-9,000 BTU’s. For smaller rooms, 6,000-7,500 BTU’s should do. I wouldn’t mess with anything that had less than a 5,000 BTU *SACC* rating (unless the room is smaller than 150 square feet). Covering your exhaust hose with an insulated HVAC duct will eliminate the heat coming from the exhaust hose. You can use big zip ties or shoe strings to secure it on both ends. It’s ugly, but it works. One last thing, once you start using your portable a/c, keep the filters clean and check your unit for water as often as you can. This will help it run as efficiently & effectively as possible. Stay cool! 🌬😎 *Thank you for sharing this video.*
In all of your calculations, you forgot to divide by π. Please recalculate and post the new findings. And don't forget the new cover sheets on the TPS Reports. When complete, put it on Lumbergh's desk. ASAP.
I want to cool a basement during the hot summer months. Basements are a bit on the humid side even if finished. Using a dehumidifier would be out of the question because they give off heat. What would be my best solution for cooling a finished Slightly humid basement without using central air? I cannot fit a window unit into my basement windows! Any suggestions? And also, what about if you have allergies, and you’re bringing air in from outside does that affect the room air?
My older dual hose portable AC was about $950 simply because it "only" used the outside air to cool the hot condensing coils. There was a strong fan inside the insulated compartment and it sucked the outside air in with considerable volume. They gave me 1" thick fiberglass insulation to wrap around the exhaust ducting because it did get very hot. It also came with white plastic snap into place cover. With the shell well insulated and the hot hose well insulated, it was the quietest "portable" on the market. But it was still louder than all my window ACs.
Portable units are the worst AC's you can get, aside from the swamp fans being masqueraded as AC's. Still good if you're in a place that doesn't allow window units like I am, but they're not really a good alternative otherwise. Most people who make the mistake of buying something that doesn't work properly for their intended use will just move on after, but then you got people on the internet like this guy fighting over single vs dual hose AC's, pretending its a comparison video, because they're the know it all types just coping with the fact that they didn't know what they were buying. They have different use cases, single hose AC's are good for smaller rooms and dual hose ones are good if you want to try and cool an area bigger then its suppose to be able to, simply because dual hose AC's cool things more evenly and help prevent air pressure issues...
The guy sounds like he is an expert but he has no clue about the subject. A dual hose system is a lot more efficient and practical. It's simple physics. Don't buy single hose ACs! They are counterproductive. Just look at the amount of air being exhausted through the hose. It's a lot! That air must be replaced. Where do you think the air comes from? Of course it comes from the outside. Outside air is hot and humid. A huge amount of that hot air is being infiltrated into the room. It's counterproductive! It's simple physics! I bought a single hose unit once by mistake and ended up returning it. It's nearly worthless, unless it's in a single room in a house cooled by a central AC. In this case, the central AC will have to work much harder to cool all the infiltrated air. Using a single hose unit is like using a window AC but with another window (in the same room) fully open. It's that bad! I'm surprised the person in this video can't understand this.
Dual hose units are rare and poorly reviewed because they suffer from recirculating hot air to cool the hot side. It's really not as simple as elementary physics suggests. The real take is both are bad compared to split systems and having the heat pump inside the refrigerated portion is an awful design compromise for portability.
A dual hose system is much more efficient than a single, also, it isn't working any harder to cool the condenser than a central or window unit, they also use outside air to cool them.
Right, is it better to cool down the condenser with the 95 degree outside air or the 70 degree inside air? I'd have to see some well-designed tests that compare the results before I decide on anything.
What if it's almost 110° F outside? The compressor will be under a larger load since the condenser is not being cooled enough. This won't be good for the compressor long term. Not to mention its rated BTU's will drop.
@@marcosscriven5937 yes, we all understand that. But what if the cooler air is overall more efficient (doubt that though) at cooling down the condenser, or isn't as inefficient as you might think?
@@marcosscriven5937 that it's worth the energy in cooling the air before using it to cool the condenser, or at least that it's not quite so bad to do so as you might think (the gas cools faster to a liquid, cools to a cooler state, leading to higher efficiency?). Again, you're stating something we all know 😅
Two hoses units are more efficient. You cannot compare the heat on the two hoses with the heat constantly entering the room with one hose units (heat that is bigger because it comes with unconditioned air mass flow entering the room). If you are concern with the heat on the two hoses then isolate them and problem solved. With the two hose units, there is not exchange of unconditioned air flow between the heat and cold zones like with a single hose units. In car's AC, the faster way is to recirculate the air and not allow outside air to enter the car.
Single duct more reliable? Run longer without winding down? Dual duct sucks some hot air from the exhaust duct because of the design next to the intake duct? Cars run better in winter than summer.
Going to say this and leave but a all ac units that are either split of dual hose ac unit USE THE OUTDOOR AIR TO COOL ITS HOT SIDE. That also includes almost all HVAC units in many homes, did you research this or just didn't care about what your posting?
All you’re doing with a dual hose is emulating the traditional windows ac. What is lacking, as far as I know, is a Recirculate setting. The windows ac (also the car ac) is normally dumping some of the conditioned air outside. He lost me at 3:30. The dual hose eliminates the vacuum problem so how does the single hose ever fix that?
Single hose never does fix that. It can't unless you modify it to a dual hose. Single hose creates a vacuum and draws hot air back into the space you want to cool. Dual hose eliminates the vacuum and uses the inside cooled air through the fan, as recirculate. It's the part this presenter gets wrong. Dual hose is more energy efficient and with some sealing and insulation, far outperforms Single hose every time. But what do I know, with hundreds of systems installed, tons of schooling on the subject and more than 15,000 hours thinking about it professionally...........
does the air conditioner work if I do not install the hose for air exchange? using the unit to cool the heat generated by the unit within the room will cause any damage to the people and/or the machine?
My question is what if I just don't use the hot air intake and basically duct tape, the hot😮 air intake on the window and don't use that hose. Will my efficiency improve? Or I could aim the other hose to the ceiling. Hot air rises.
I have a question...it's a fact that single hose portable ACs suck in the same cold air it breathes into the room and thus making it less efficient in cooling said space. In this regard, given that cold air is denser than warm air and thus the latter rises, is it safe to say that by placing a portable AC in a higher location it will suck in more of the warm air than cold and as a result making it more efficient in cooling the room? Any info on this is much appreciated.
Either way, there will be negative pressure in the room. And it is the resulting infiltration air that most drastically impacts the unit's ability to properly cool the room.
@@consumer-analysis I see. But, wouldn't the cooled indoor air somehow help cool the infiltrating warm air? Sorry for the additional query, I just need to settle these questions before I decide on what is best for our room. Thank you for your time.
@@nyebe6598 It certainly will and it does. My previous response relates to efficiency. What I was trying to say was that the effects of infiltration air greatly overshadow any benefit that might be had by placing the unit higher or lower in the room to improve efficiency.
Can the LG, for example, be positioned in the doorway between a bedroom and ensuite, surrounded with a shower curtain to separate the two rooms, let the AC face into the bedroom to cool it, but vented into the bathroom with the bathroom exhaust fan running? Bathrooms regularly get hot and humid, and the exhaust fan removes all that. Couldn't this set up work in a pinch where a window setup is simply not available? Could even a regular, more efficient, window AC be used in that manner: perhaps placed on a rack facing into the bedroom but venting into the bathroom/shower/tub/sink?
Just curious, I have a dual hose, which I was told can have the intake hose to be removed, I understand that it takes the outdoor air and pressure, but how effective is having that dual hose when it’s 115 degrees outside?
I have a double hose that I have been trying to get our 1940's stucco non insulated house in San Diego where we never had humidity for such long periods of time~! My questions is, If im drawing in hot/humid air to cool the condenser, can I not attach that to the outside and let it take in the room air but have the condenser line vent out the window?? Any suggestions would be grateful! :)
I bought one of those GE 1050 BTU units, based on the fact that there was a RAP02 kit to allow dual hose operation. This kit does not exist yet and GE keeps moving the release date and I'm wondering if it's due to false advertising. The Box claims three times the efficiency if you use the Dual hose kit that is available. For one, the kit has never been made available and many people are buying these units based on the fact that the kid exists and for two, if the units run less efficient with the kit that you have to purchase, they may be liable in a class action suit.
Single hose units can always be upgraded to dual hose units, gaining both benefits 7:25 Single Hose Higher SACC -> Dual Hose Higher SACC You basically get more for a lower price. By insulating the AC itself and pipes u get efficiency as split system. Don't forget that a dual hose unit, if it cools room down by that 3 degrees, it has 3 degrees less to cool than a single hose unit which has to deal with the negative pressure hot air, meaning that once a dual hose unit with lower sacc cools room down to that 25C when it's 31C outside "slower", it will outperform the single hose as it will then cool down only that 25C, reaching the target temperature at some point, while the single hose unit will slow down with cooling speed over time, staying behind lower sacc dual hose.
On sunny days, the outside air surround the building is a lot warmer even into the night ( heat capacity). For apartments/condos, most of the outside air coming in is through the cooler hallway.
@@rob4197 This doesn't benefit you. First, the air is soon or late going to be replaced or warmed up, ventilation already takes the air from the hallway and the a/c will stay running for longer periods of time because one or more rooms surrounding the conditioned room will *always* be warmer, matching the hallway temperature. With the mod, basically any air escaping the conditioned room is cooling the surrounding rooms to some extent.
