Sistering and Leveling Floor Joists - Master Bathroom Remodel Pt 03 

Thanks....it really is important using the right screws when dealing with structure.

How'd it go? I'm currently debating on Sistering the joist vs Sleepers (shim) on top

Glad to help. You got this!

Good eye! In this area we would call them Powder Post Beetle. No active infestation after years of professional treatment and monitoring. Prior to purchasing, the owners had a pest inspection done, which came back negative and highlighted that treatment had been done in the past. By the time this video was being made, elements such as moisture mitigation and crawlspace enclosure had been taken care of thus preventing reoccurrence. The sound and the feel of these joists were solid, so they remained.

You are correct. Later in the video you do see the lazer level is in the corner of the room. Definitely work from the far end in. (edit spelling)

I missed this question - hope your project has gone well.....You certainly can do that and it may be easier if your other joists are not too out of line or have few crowns/bows.

The lack of PL8 may be a supply problem. I am able to get PL8 over in my area and checking Loctite's website, they still have the PL3, PL8 and MAX listed. Out of curiosity, I called their helpline and was told that they still do make to product. I wonder if the adhesive you used for the subfloor was expired. I check the dates printed on the tubes (usually!) before buying so I don't get anything that has expired.

@@hammerpine Yes, I agree about the possibility of expiration. But I have 5 - 7 joists to sister up, they are 10' long. I had went ahead using Liquid Nails "for sub-floors" on the first two, they come in the big 28 oz. tube, now that I've done two I know it takes a whole tube to do 2 of them. I had glued up some scraps and though the stuff does not dry really hard (like the PL 3,8 or Max), 24 hours after the glue-up they seem to be bonded pretty tight, I can not pull them apart. I think it is the best choice because: I need a great quantity to get big beads down, and this purpose would be mainly to prevent squeaking, I'm using the same screws as you are but spacing them only 12" apart in the same up/down fashion. I did buy more of the PL 450 ("for sub-floors")in the large 28oz. size, it seems to be about the same as the Liquid Nails for sub-floors, as it is white in color, same thickness, I figure it is the PL version of the same product, and I do have more trust in PL than Liquid Nails. I used four clamps during the process along the 10' span, this helps get a good squeeze on them and was absolutely necessary to hold the joist in place, it being over my head and after getting one clamp on it held in place while I proceeded to apply the screws.

This might sound trivial but the 3 1/8" GRX construction screws did poke thru the sistered 2x8s, if you think this might cause somebody to poke a finger just use a grinder to dull them down after installation, this worked for me. My crawl space is not intended for storage space being so low as it is, but in the future if something needed to be serviced down there somebody would have a really bad day trying to work after poking there fingers. Do NOT try to grind them down before installation unless you want them to bust out chunks of pine on the other side (and don't ask how I know:)

Ugh, I'm trying to find out the same question and I can't find an answer everywhere! If the original hanger is sufficient to support both the old and new joist, it'll be an easy job 🥲

Did you ever find the answer to this? Seem incorrect to not have the sister sit on the rim joist?

@@marmington Negative, I was not able to find an answer.

If you are looking to level out a floor (make it flat) or add to a floors ability to carry a higher load and minimize deflection you can just sister like you are saying and I did in the video. It is acceptable for joists that are cracked, have excessive notches or holes drilled through it but are otherwise in good condition. Remember that the middle third of a joist is (should be!) a notch and hole free zone. If they had rot, insect damage or otherwise in bad condition around the point of attachment to a rim or support beam then I would look to rip and replace and get hangars put in. In this video the original joists are notched and sitting on a 2x4 that is attached to the rim and support joist. Hangars would not work. Doubly because nominal and actual lumber dimensions are being sistered - I have yet to come across a hangar that would accommodate that. I could have notched the new joists and have them sit on the 2x4 as well, however that would be quite a bit more work for little gain.

What is the question?

Care to elaborate as to why?

Good show.