Complete Kitchen Remodel V.2 - Floor Joist Repair 

Howdy Michael Block! Thanks for the great compliment!!! Glad you enjoyed the video. Hope to see you as a sub - tons of cool work to come as we begin the renovation of a 200 year old brick farmhouse. ☘️

Howdy Dopeboi Lee! Glad the video was helpful…thanks for the comment!!! ☘️

*have got

Howdy bnasty267! That's a great tip....thanks!

Howdy Keoki! Thanks for checking out the video - glad you enjoyed it! Good luck on your next project…let me know if you have any questions. ☘️

Howdy fencerider !!! Glad you liked this episode ... more coming soon!

Howdy pinkdreamer04! Thanks very much for the great comment and for subscribing!!! Glad the video was helpful...let me know if you have any questions...I am here to help! ☘️

Howdy Blocrose! Glad you liked the video and thanks for the comment. Good luck with your project! ☘️

Thanks!

Howdy Zachary Collier! Thanks very much!

Howdy elige brown! Great!!! So glad this video will be helpful in your restoration of your new old house. Good luck! I recently bought an old house also that needs quite a bit of restoration...you may find some of my restoration project videos helpful as well. Hope to see you as a sub! ☘️

Howdy binarybox! Thanks very much!!! ☘️

Howdy Shakerhood69! Thanks very much!!! ☘️

Get the house termite treated and if you are in a very termite active area get traps put in the ground outside your house

Howdy FloorsbySouthernboys !!! Thanks very much!!!

Howdy Andrew Cox! Good question - I should have mentioned this in the video...this is a relatively small house and the joists under the kitchen floor run all the way to the front of the house (under the dining room). I wanted to ensure the dining room floor remained true, so I took the extra time to sister all the joists that needed repair. My concern was that if I cut the joist off mid span, it could lead to some issues with the dining room floor later. It would have been easier to cut and replace the kitchen floor joists, but I wanted to play it safe and tie the two floor together - as it was initially built 75 years ago. Thanks for the question...hope to see you as a sub! ☘️

Thanks Mohammed!!! Glad the video was helpful! ☘️

Howdy Alberto Figueroa! Thanks very much! Hope to see you as a sub...many more projects to come!!! ☘️

Howdy John Vance! Thanks for watching and glad the video is helpful! Good luck on your project. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks for subscribing!!! ☘️

Howdy Diane Vessels! Thanks very much - glad you like the video!!!

Howdy Michael! Great question. After you secure the ends you should install through bolts across the top and bottom spaced 12” apart .... the top and bottom should be offset by 6”.... so the result will be a zigzag pattern. Hope this helps! ☘️

Howdy Kamber!... thanks for the comment. No - we did not install a vapor barrier. The terrain around the house slope away and drains nicely ... plus there is good ventilation throughout the crawl space. The damage to the floor and joist was due to plumbing leaks that went unchecked for many years ... no indication of a damp crawl space problem. CONGRATS on the purchase of your ‘new’ home! Let me know if you have any renovation questions. Hope to see you as a sub!!! ☘️

Howdy Robert Farquhar!!! Thanks very much! Glad you liked the video and hope it will help you complete your project. Thanks very much for subscribing and welcome to Do & Brew. If you’re doing a whole kitchen remodel from the joists up, I hope you have found my other videos in this series...11 posted so far and there will be 14 total. Let me know if you have any questions as you begin your project. Good luck and thanks again! ☘️

Thanks for checking out the video! It took three guys about 6 hours to complete the demo, pull all the old nails, clean up and put all the debris in the dumpster….so about 18 man hours.

Howdy Lorenzo B! Thanks for watching and for the question! The blocking was cut to length to ensure consistent spacing of the joists and secured with galvanized framing nails. Let me know if you have any more questions. ☘️

Howdy ROCKY'S AUTO SALES! In this case the homeowner did not want to replace the old, thick walled copper with modern, thin, Chinese copper. If there is a problem in the future, the repair/replacement will be with pex. Thanks for watching! ☘️

Do And Brew - DIY Got it, thx for taking the time and explaining. Ur welcome

Howdy Chris Jones! That is preferable if you have access to both. If not, anchoring on one side is acceptable, but run your sister at least 2/3 of the unsupported span and through bolt every 12-18 inches. Check to see what your local building code requirements are - if any. Let me know if you have any more questions. Good luck!!! 🍀

Howdy Umut Esen! Good question...I should have covered that better. I installed blocking at the ends at 7:50. This blocking ensures consistent joist spacing - and because it extends across the entire run of joists, there is no way for the joists to move. Thanks for the question and for checking out the video! ☘️

Howdy Daniel Rainey! Thanks for the question! You should remove all of the damaged wood then sister to the remaining joist. Use a hydraulic jack to raise/support the floors/walls if they will continue to carry the load during the repair. Jacks, lifts or temporary supports were not required for the floor in the video since they carry no load and it was a complete rebuild. Know the impact of what you’re cutting before the first cut!!! Thanks for watching! ☘️

Howdy Juhee Ha! Mold is tricky. Honestly, if you are concerned about mold, the best advice I can give you is to contact a professional mold remediation company. You can spray with breach or ammonia and try to scrub it away - but you are dealing with a microscopic enemy; can you ever be sure to get it all? I have used bleach OR ammonia with varying degrees of success. (NEVER MIX BLEACH AND AMMONIA!). I recently read an article that in some cases when bleach is applied, the mold will retreat out of site, but come back stronger later - even feeding off the bleach! So, if you have a serious mold problem or you are sensitive to mold, it might be best to contact the pros. Thanks for watching and good luck on your project! ☘️

@@DoAndBrewDIY Thank you! I appreciate the detailed info and concern.

Howdy boe dillard! Yes - installing tile directly onto any wood surface is NOT advised. Simple reason is that wood moves with changes in temperature and humidity. As the wood expands and contracts the tile or stone will eventually pop loose. You need to have something that separates (de-couples) the tile/stone from the wood subfloor; like cement board or the orange membrane you mentioned - which is a Schluter-Ditra product. Here is the link: www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/ I have not used The Schluter membrane yet. It is both a de-coupling membrane and a waterproofing membrane in one. I still prefer to use the cement board with a paint on waterproofer like RedGard. Some of the real ol’timer tile setters would use old laminate flooring as a ‘slip sheet’ to separate the tile from the wood subfloor. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for checking out the video and good luck on your project! ☘️

@@DoAndBrewDIY Thanks very much for the excellent response!

No … intended to ensure proper spacing and to keep the floor joists true.

I have the same problem I think. You will need to remove any pipe at floor level. Do 1 wall at a time. Leave the studs or replace the bad ones if needed. Cut out the old one and cut the holes you need for pipes and slide it in. Make sure to use those metal joists deals to connect the studs. Sorry cant remember what they're called. I'm not a professional but that's how I'm doing it.

It’s something you want to try and do. Studs land on joists and rafters land on studs. It’s good practice and transfers the load better.

Howdy gutiersa! Glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching and for the nice comment! ☘️

Howdy KingHD! Most standard floor joists are made of 2x material. The joists that I am installing are 2x10s...this type of wood is always available at Lowe’s or Home Depot. Let me know if you have any more questions. Good luck on your project!!! ☘️

@@DoAndBrewDIY Thank you for the reply i appreciate it 😁 love the videos btw keep em coming. If i run into anything else that im not sure of ill be sure to ask you i have an entire house from the 40s to remodel so im learning as i go

Howdy Janet Stone! Good question...it wouldn’t hurt to apply a sealer to protect the wood from possible future damage. However, identifying the source of the water leak and preventing the water from contacting the wood is the best course of action. In this case, the culprits were a leaky sink drain and a leaking dishwasher. Since we knew we’d be eliminating those problems during this project we did not see a need to apply a sealer to the wood. Thanks for the great comment and question - and thanks for subscribing to Do & Brew! Good luck on your project and let me know if you have any more questions. ☘️

Howdy Marek Włodarczyk! Unfortunately - you should not install cement board directly to a solid wood subfloor. The best thing to do is install 1/2” plywood over the solid wood subfloor. First screw the solid wood subfloor boards to the joists. Next use construction adhesive and screws placed 6” on center to secure the 1/2” plywood to the solid wood subfloor. Then spread thinset and install your cement board. This will yield the most stable substrate for your tile install to ensure it will last for many years. Good luck on your install and let me know if you have any more questions. ☘️

Howdy Albert Thompson! We installed new joists in the same way the old joists were set in place. Installation of a sill plate would necessitate a smaller joist. Thanks for the comment and for checking out Do & Brew! ☘️

@@DoAndBrewDIY ok... live in a 1950s home and im looking to fix a terribly squeaky floor. The problem aeem to stem from joist work that was poorly completely. It would seem they cut the joist and spliced it with whatever was around. So now I need to sure up the floor jiost then do the floor...I think.

Howdy Albert Thompson! Usually the squeak comes from the subfloor components rubbing together or a loose nail moving in and out of the joist.

Howdy Minh Cao! This project took about 6 weeks and cost about $18,000. The largest costs being cabinets, granite and appliances. Thanks for watching the video! ☘️

@@DoAndBrewDIY Thanks a lot for the great vio.

Howdy Dado Molina! Thanks for the question.....I have received this same question a few times - I should have explained it better in the video. The original floor joists are very long and partially extended under the dining room to support that floor. I could not simply remove the old joists without impacting the dining room floor also. So sistering was my best option. Thanks again for the question....hope to see you as a sub! ☘️

@@DoAndBrewDIY ok thank you, i asked because i am redoing my house that was built in 1960 and some of the joists are rotted due to a leaking roof i can replace the whole joist and was wondering. Thanks for your reply... Great work too I'm learning from watching you remodel.

Thanks Dado Molina! Let me know if you have any more questions. Good luck on your project! ☘️

Do And Brew - DIY are the carriage bolts required? I’ve only seen people use screws in the past

@@josephdaoud5868 deck screws lack sheer strength and can break under live load movement. This is a kitchen where heavy appliances will be moved in and out over the years in addition to a lot of foot traffic. The carriage bolts also tighten up the sistered joists to help eliminate movement between them. This is very important if installing tiled flooring

Howdy Cloud Ryse! That “skirt board” was in good shape, as were all structural members of the wall. Yes it (they) are old and have some stains, but that doesn’t mean rotten or unsound. If the wood is still hard and sturdy...no need to replace. Thanks for the comment/question. Good luck on your project! ☘️

Howdy zzubuzz! Since you have the subfloor up, I would sister in 2x8 or 2x10 to the sagging joists. I would use joists that long enough to be supported on both ends, then through bolt to connect (sister) the new joist to the old. This will help to remove the sag and add strength to your floor. Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions. ☘️

No you definitely have to sister the new joists into the old joist of you aren’t replacing the entire joist…

Howdy Arturo S! Yes - you can sister 2x6s...you can nail to hold everything together, but it is best to through bolt. Thanks for watching and for the question! ☘️

Howdy Manuel! I sister the same material to each other….so I would use a 2x6. The price difference is not that much and you’ll know the job is done right. Thanks for checking out the video…let me know if you have any more questions. Good luck with your project! ☘️

@@DoAndBrewDIY It's commonsense to add 2x6 but my Issue is 2x6 will not fit to get in the crawl space only 2x4. That why I ask if It'll be alright :) {Its not an open floor}

Howdy Dame Cook! I think that cutting the old, rotten wood out/off is the right thing to do. Rotten wood is spongey, tends to hold water and is a great place for mold and insects to live. I would not want to leave that directly next to, and in contact with, the new joist. Thanks for the question...hope to see you as a sub!

Do And Brew - DIY i agree its a much much stronger structure doing it that way.

Howdy Charles Richardson! The carriage bolts are approximately 8 to 10 inches on center. Not all sistering methods include carriage bolts - some folks think it’s overkill - but we only have one shot to get it right and I prefer the added security through bolting provides. Thanks for the question and for checking out the video! Let me know if you have any more questions. ☘️

I've heard glueing helps in reducing squeaking in the floors

Howdy Kingdom1! Thanks for the comment and the sub!!! ☘️

I don't get why some one want to leave any old joist there wood isn't so expensive. I would rather replace all of them with LVL-joist to get more sturdy floor.

No. Certainly not in those proportions. This is also the reason there are strict limitations on the size and placement for holes in joists and rafters for plumbing or electric chase.

Howdy Notch it! I would use treated 4x6s and rip them down to the dimensions you need - I have done that before. Might seem wasteful, but the alternative will be to have the wood custom cut at a mill...do-able, but expensive. Thanks for watching the video...let me know if you have any more questions. Good luck! 🍀

@@DoAndBrewDIY Ok thanks. I will check with my local lumber suppler and hope they can rip me few pieces.

Material is probably about 300 bucks. Add 600 more if you need to by hand tools + the kinda of saw he was using. Get some friends together to help and order pizza and knock it out in a day depending how big the room is.

Triple what it was after Covid shortages.

Howdy Adam V! Regarding sistering....it may not be clear in the video, but the floor joists extend under the dining room floor. Therefore I had to cut them at some point - so why not preserve as much of the good wood as possible - while also doubling the joists! Yes - using a construction adhesive is a good tip! Thanks for checking out the video and for the comment! Hope to see you as a subscriber!!! Irish ☘️

@@DoAndBrewDIY ah, ok. I understand now. Thanks for the quick reply, I honestly was curious, not trying to sound like I knew how to do it better. I certainly am no professional.

Howdy Adam V! No worries at all...questions / dialogue are / is always a good thing. There is usually more than one way to complete a project and I hope everyone will share their tips & tricks...it really does take a village and I do learn something new everyday!!! Thanks again for the comment!

Howdy David Surowiec! Just make sure the points where you are jacking up the house to support/re-level the structure are on a strong/proper footing. Without that, anything you do will only be temporary. Good luck! 🍀

Thank you partner! My plan is to jack the house in 3 different spots and add steel plates on top of the original lally Columns. Then lower the jacks so the weight of the house rests on the original lally columns with the metal plates. Also I’ll use the extra adjustable jack posts for extra support! (Half a turn a week) and that saves me roughly 20k

Howdy Toefoo100! The structural members of the wall were in good shape. Yes they are old and have some stains, but that doesn’t mean rotten or un sound. If the wood is still hard and sturdy...no need to replace. Thanks for the comment/question. Good luck on your project! ☘️

@@DoAndBrewDIY In a video it's pretty difficult to tell between just a stain and rot. Thanks!

Howdy Raised ByWolves! No...you might think that pressure treated wood would be the best option, but it’s not advisable to use treated wood inside a home because it can off gas the treatment chemicals for many years. Thanks for the good question! ☘️

@@DoAndBrewDIY Actually the logic in using PTL in a "finished" basement is flawed. I wouldn't advise putting PTL in living spaces "ie finished basements" although PTL is used as a sill but that basement is not even a crawl space. The only purpose of the preservative is to prevent rot and insect infestation and I think that basement fits the bill. It is generally accepted that the most risk from PT wood is in the construction phase where fine arsenic laced sawdust is easily inhaled or comes in contact with the skin. Although on another topic many of the plastics and paints that we have indoors, food containers included tend to off gas . I would never used spray foam to insulate a house either, that's a ticking time bomb.

Howdy Kyle Love! Thanks very much! There is some cool stuff coming over the next year!

@@DoAndBrewDIY ... I'll be watching!

Howdy Ugo Okafori! Great question - a jack is usually not required because the majority of the weight is off the joists. However, as with these joists that extend under the dining room on the other side of the house, you may need a little extra lift to get the joist to level. Usually a helper can hold the joist level as you sister the new joist to the old...if necessary, a jack could hold everything level as you get the new joist installed. Thanks for the question and for checking out the video! ☘️

Howdy Joseph Jung! There is no structural reason why not...in fact it would be better. However, there IS a code restriction in my state to using treated lumber inside a house. That is why I didn’t use treated lumber here. (I also have a deck restoration video where I do use treated lumber to sister/repair damaged joists.). Thanks for the question!!! ☘️

@@DoAndBrewDIY Is the underside of the floor inside the house?

Skill Builder ... it’s a brick foundation with unimproved crawl space. ☘️

Howdy William! Thanks for checking out the video. Agree….but screw are intended to hold the joist until you through bolt with a carriage bolt … screws are easier than nails in the tight joist cavity. ☘️