Thank you for the support 👍 I'm struggling at the mo. The cam-belt/water-pump change is definitely coming and I want to do a good job on filming it to give much needed help as possible, tools are ready! :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey awesome. Can not wait. There's numerous videos on RU-vid regarding jobs for the car, but none come close to the content and clear instructions your videos cover. Keep up the excellent work. ATB.
I have a skoda that does not have air conditioning - all windows can open, but my question was whether it is possible to have an air conditioning installed separately
can someone tell me what the symbol/ button does next to the AC button there? plz. i have been sporadically pressing it while i have passengers in the car so they dont find out im not a real skoda driver.
Ideally you would want the system evacuated of any refrigerant and then tested to see if it holds the vacuum, before filling it. If that is done it will suck more refrigerant in. If you try to fill it as is it may work if you can get some gas in, it depends on the vacuum and how much it has leaked out over time really which is a bit of a guess. Most refrigerant services come with some leak additive and the correct amount of oil to set the system up to it's optimum efficiency so worth doing it right if you want it to work well. I did vacuum the system a few years before this re-gas and mine wasn't that bad to start with, so worked well for me.
Thanks for the suggestion, noted, I take it by pedals you mean the vrs metal covers. I'm fairly sure that they should fit as a straight swap, but never done it. I know that if the covers become loose it is a good idea to use silicon etc to stick them in place, but remember they may need to be taken off at a later date.
If it works and your cool then you have a good AC system and no need to top up. You will have noticed that mine was working and in the green zone on the gauge, but was still able to improve the -temp with the addition of a small amount of refrigerant. The R134a nature is to leak a bit over time so the system will be reduced over time.
@@maddog9793 They ain't easy to get hold of, but try putting the actual part number in the search engine, that's what I do. Of course the dealers will have one, but it will be expensive. I got central vent one on ebay for £30, but you have to keep looking for a good one which most seem not. Part numbers in my fabia vent video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TSL5g2-evVI.html
Thanks for another video. Why would you want to top up your own air conditioner? A completely new filling at a garage costs me about 70 euros. (netherlands) And then the system is also checked for leaks. I think your kit is quite expensive. but ok, you can do it yourself again
Yes, I did, but forgot to press record and filled it up. I can see the vid is not very clear as I actually filmed that bit a little later and - . Maybe I should re-do the video?
HI, not specifically, but my strut mount one has a bit of that: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RtstXOdLFCo.html track rod end 4:57 ish, but it only releases the end and I guess you want to replace it which is wise as these wear easily and effect the tracking/ride etc. Count the number of turns removing it so a new one will be roughly put back the same, but it still will need tracking at a garage. I would use one that uses lasers. This is on my list of videos to do, thanks :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey no it does not work. IT blinks rapidly, sometimes its on untill next puthole on a road or smt like that and it go off. Sometimes it wont work at all.
I'm afraid I wouldn't recommend doing this to top up your aircon. You should always have the system drained of gas and moisture, checked for leaks and topped up with the correct amount.
Yes you could say that and that is the best way to make sure the system functions best, but In my experience you only need to do that when the system starts to function poorly or not at all as it is the receiver dryer that also needs to be replaced to remove the accumulated moisture, not just the gas and services don't do that unless you specifically ask for that to be done. On this car all the front end has to be taken off to do that. It also depends on how much use the AC is used, if you live in a hot country then the receiver dryer need replacing about every 3 years.
@@HatBoyHarvey I get your point. I would say applying a long vacuum on the air con system should remove the moisture from the system. I would also add that compressor should be added too because if you have a gas leak, be it small or big, you're going to lose oil past the seals so a top up alone without adding oil will eventually knacker the compressor. On another not I enjoy pretty much all your videos but this one I wasn't hot on, sorry.
Thanks glad you enjoy most of the videos, no worries on this one, it is good to have you own opinions, where would we be if everyone thought the same ;-]
Brilliant video, I love my fabia 06 plate number which is a work car. Last summer I realised AC isn't cold enough, probably need doing this. Thanks again for another brilliant video. By the way, right now I've issues with hot heater core, not much hot air, maybe clogged? Is there any way to advice I can give it a clean to the heater core please? Thanks
I'd like it if you could do a video on the heater flap controller and the air recirc controller (almost the same thing). I've used VCDS to reset the potentiometer but the heater flap controller can still stick on hot sometimes. I tried to find another potentiometer, but with no luck, so looks like a new expensive flap controller assembly is the only option.
A continual problem with Mk1 fabias. I have this planned to do, sorry it hasn't appeared yet. you could take it out and apart, clean it up fix any mechanical issue and lube and test with the control unit and vcds to reset it if needed.
Hi. Mine is a 2006 TDi and never has been recharged. I have a temperature meter similar than yours and the temperature shown at power level 1 is 0 degrees. My temperature meter is fixed and I can check if aircon is working fine while driving. Oh, one last thing. Awesome video, as usually.
Sometimes my Fabia starts to blow hot air for a minute and then turn cold again while the temperature dial is still on cold. Do you have any idea why it does this and how to solve this problem?
@@BassMastersOfficial1 is either your compressor that's going bad or compressor solenoid sensor issues. Just buy an used compressor from a junkyard to solve the problem and you'll be ready to go.
After around 3 seconds from pressing the a/c, my fabia hisses at me and still provides warm air, does this need a regas or is it likely to be worse, thanks
Thanks ford the video, I have a problem with mi skoda can you help me? I don't no the name for buy one of mi parts. And I don't feel the car faster like before.
hello my vehicle 2002 68 kw fabia my vehicle has a stalling problem when I slow down at the lights it stops when I downshift when the car in front of me stops when it slows down
My Fabia (54 plate), I have had the gas recharged, but AC is not cooling car. Looks like the compressor is not getting power, yet all seems OK at the AC switch. What could be stopping the power reaching the compressor? Any suggestions would be most welcome. I have been told there is a clutch in the compressor to start the drive when AC is required.
The switch often seems to work, but when the compressor fails to engage it is probably the compressor, which can be costly, but there are secondhand ones off scrapped cars, but be picky you get one that is known to work. You can sometimes strip down a compressor to fix it, but it is fiddly with no guarantee you find the cause. I replaced mine, but the job is not easy as there are many aspects of the AC system to consider at the same time inc NOT to release refrigerant into the atmosphere (this can be done by the shop)
@@HatBoyHarvey Thanks for the reply, but my problem seems to be that power is leaving the AC switch but not reaching the compressor. I am struggling to find a circuit diagram to show components such as relays, etc. that may be the cause. Are there any components that you can suggest could be the problem?
What Could be wrong with my AC, if it doesnt stops to cool down, even if I turn AC off. It takes around 5 minutes to turn off by itself ( with AC turned off button). It happens when AC was on for longer time, like 30min. or so Car: Skoda Fabia 1.4 16v ,year 2000
There could be a number of things wrong here. The evaporator has frozen up or the evaporator sensor is giving out the wrong reading or , relay maybe faulty, one of the temp sensors is off. check if the fans have turned off and the condenser is clear of debri. I would also scan the car with vagcom at the time it is doing it to see if it throws up a specific fault code.
Hi, a question, nothing related to this video. I have a Skoda Fabia Elegance 2.0 Hatchback 02 model. I have tried to obtain a Haynes Manual but failed to find one that deals with this specific car. I have a flywheel to replace at some time and do need the guidance of a manual not being a mechanic myself. I did hear the 2.0 engine in the Fabia is a Golf 2.0 not sure how true this is. Do you have any advice? With thanks again.
If you don't think you can do this job then don't as it is quite involved and you need the right tools and supports. Change the clutch etc at the same time. much quicker and potentially cheaper to get a mechanic to do it. There are specialists that just do clutch replacements and will do the flywheel at the same time for you.
@@HatBoyHarvey Hi and thanks for your reply. I wouldn't want to spend that kind of money on it,so will have to do it myself. Already committed to the car after undertaking many jobs myself and saved a fortune. Cheers Are you doing any more vid's ?
No worries, just take your time, stage by stage, support the car, engine, box and don't force anything too much, you need to be firm, but with care, lots of jiggling and wangling as things are very tight, depending on engine :-)
Hi the 2007 1.4 Tdi Fabia Bohemia (one of the last Mark 1's) I'm working on, has working A/C. However whilst it is running, and for a few seconds after you turn off the ignition, it makes what I can only describe as a "sucking gurgling" noise. Will this just be a top up, or a full regas?
I'm guessing the sucking gurgling noises you hear after the AC is turned off is the refrigerant moving through the expansion device and boiling in the evaporator. The noise may continue until the pressure on both sides are equal. If the system gives out reduced cold air with this happening then I would first try a top up and see what happen, if no joy then a full evac and fill may then sort it out.
Leaks can't be avoided? Its meant to be a sealed system and the leak should be fixed, system pressure tested and evacuated before you even think about adding gas.
You only need to do that if you have a noticeable leak. What I show in the video is a top up of a system that has leaked a very small amount of refrigerant over a long time (you can see that on the gauge) which in this case is 5 years so topping up with R134a that has a leak stop additive is probably the best solution to gain a bit of extra cool air (which it did). You could argue all day that you must only evacuate, vacuum test, pressure test, change all seals, receiver dryer every time you feel it isn't cold enough, but you have to be realistic. If your lucky you can have a completely sealed system for years, but I've even seen new cars lasting only a few years before running out of gas.
