Tell me, please, how much is all the brake fluid in the brakes system of Skoda Fabia Combi Mk1 1.9 TDI-PD, made in Czechia summer 2006. I'm going to change all my front an rear brakes.
Another fantastic 'how-to' video. I have done this maintenance many times, however, good solid information such as your is never enough - thank you for another superb video HatBoyHarvey...
servo issues. Press and hold your foot on the brake and turn off the engine - pedal wanting to rise? with the engine off press on the pedal 3,4 times, does it loose the hardness and go soft? have a look at the pipe attached to the servo for breaks/leaks and the one way valve may also have failed.
Thanks a million HRH, I mean HBH 😁. Your videos are brilliant and helping me immensely. I'm learning so much from you and my Fabia MK1 is so grateful. Cheers from London 👍🇬🇧
I use the second method, but with a different machine (something like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fMOG8ExDQ8c.html) in my 2 cars (Fabia and Xtrail), and it works perfect. You pump it manually and you can change the fluid in all the car without worries. The bleeding sequence, according with the manual, is the same you have said, but I'm talking about left hand drive, not sure if in right hand as yours will be the same. But I see that you don't bleed the clutch. Clutch uses the same brake fluid and it must be changed as well. In left hand Fabia it is located over the gear box. In my case (1.9 TDi) I must remove the air filter for a more comfortable job. Bleeder is made in plastic, so you must close it carefully. Don't force it or you will break it. I assume that right hand cars will be similar. In any case, go ahead with your channel because Sunday mornings are not the same without your videos. Best regards
Thanks, yes the clutch is fed by the master cyclinder and should be bled after the brakes, but how many do that? I should have mentioned that, plumb forgot. I'll do a video on that soon :-)
Thanks for this HatBoyHarvey. Using the one-man-pressured-system technique, do all four bleed-off valves still need bleeding, or is it just the front two? If all four required, is it in the order which you specify at the beginning of video? Also if 1 litre of DOT 4 per change, I'm thinking 250ml per valve to replace. Sound ok? Thanks.
Hey.. Hows your fabia shifts gears in cold weather? In summer in my car its really easy to shift gears. But in winter its really hard. Especially first and second gear. I really need to use force. After some time when the car gets warmed up its back to normal. Transmission fluid was changed today but the problem remains.
I take it you have also bled the clutch so that should disengage the clutch. I have had this problem also, but haven't got around to fixing it yet as mine isn't that bad. I changed the box oil 5 yrs ago with little change. It maybe due to the oil viscosity in cold weather coupled with a worn box, input shaft bearing, selector rings etc. I am going to look at the linkage brackets on top of the gearbox first for signs of wear/sticking pivot bushes and re-set it and see if that helps. Sorry I don't know exactly what it is yet :-)
I tried my Eezi bleed on my 2004 Fabia today after changing the rear calipers and i couldnt get a decent flow out of the bleed nipples, ive also had a similar issue on an Audi A3. Set at 15 psi and no cap leaks. Didnt have a helper so will try again tomorrow, anyone got any ideas why it doesnt work?
For the Fabia MK1 it is recomended to bleed the farthest wheel away from the master cylinder first working towards the nearest, But this changes if you include the ABS unit. The ABS unit changes the line order if you keep strickly to the primary rule. I was hoping to start a discussion about it :-)
I had a leaky caliper recently and between the fluid i lost from it and the fluid i lost fitting 2 new rear calipers the master cycler went dry. I've topped it up and bled both rear brakes, but there's still air there. I used a one way valve self bleeder. I'm going to use my favourite, the 2 person method you're showing here and do all 4 in the correct order. My clutch is working fine but would it still be beneficial to bleed the clutch? Should i get the ABS pump bled as well? Great video and thank you.
If the master cylinder went dry, then by how much? If you think the level of fluid went lower than the ABS unit then that will need bleeding. ABS pumps need to bled with software like vagcom under basic settings. it is recommended to bleed the clutch after a fluid change, but in reality many leave that if it works as it is a bit harder to get to. video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-a8gshJu1KV8.html :-)
Great helpfull video Harvey as usual helped me with my a3 tdi. Always enjoy your informative videos thankyou for taking the time to post them. All the best from whitby n yorks. 😊👍👍
Great video have done ha few jobs on my Fabia whit help from your guides! But I wonder don't you have to plug in a computer to open the valves in the abs?
Good question, yes you do, but not just to bleed the system. If fluid leaks to the point where it goes below the ABS unit then air will enter and it will need 'basic setting' procedure doing. This is very rare to happen as fluid normally leaks very slowly, not to this point and you should notice as the brakes would fail before the level can even drop near the ABS. Saying that, if for some reason the fluid has never been flushed for a very long time, air could get in there, that is why it is important to flush the fluid regularly as part of a service schedule :-)
This is probably the greatest video for break fluid change ever seen. Very nice and easy approach,clearly described👍 (im many services they just change that fluid from the white bottle and without proper bleeding...)
Thanks. Yes, I agree, a little. As long as the coolant is above the lower mark when cold it is fine, problems occur when people overfill the expansion res believing it needs to be filled to the highest mark when ever and have it venting out all over the place, especially if you have overheating related issues.
