Brake Fluid Change ALONE in 3 MINUTES and bleed brakes - life hack Car: Ford Focus III 2012 Type of brakes: ATE single-piston Type of fluid: DOT 4 Class 6 #brakefluid #howto
vacuum the tank out first, fill to the top with new fluid so you aren't drawing that old fluid into the system and only draw enough out to keep the reservoir from letting air in.
Suck the fluid out of the reservoir first then put new fluid in the syringe and push the new fluid to the top. Air likes to rise so help it out. ATV, cycles and snowmobiles like it if you push the fluid up because of the small stroke on the master cylinder doesn't move much fluid. . Cars don't matter but I like to help the air go the right direction.
Start at the wheel station furthermost from the brake fluid reservoir and finish at the closest. Try to find Super Dot 4 or Dot 4 Super, It has the highest dry boiling temp.
For God’s Sake ! Anytime that you are messing around with brake fluid be sure to wear your safety glasses! Many years ago I had one drop splash into my eye; it felt like a charcoal briquette was on my eye ! I had the unbelievable luck that there was a running hose in a tree well right next to where I was working in the driveway. I flushed that eye with for at least 15 minutes. That was over 45 years ago and the thought of it still makes me pucker.
@@jimseviltwin1 I'm reasonably confident that will hurt. I hate getting that nasty stuff on my hands. Its a shite fluid. All for the sake of no boiling of the liquid. I've had many things in my eyes including ultra violet light and carborundum from cutting and grinding discs, metal splinters, petrol and Fk knows what other shite. But of course any foreign body or substance is terribly uncomfortable in the peepers!
Long time ago, this was how I did such jobs, before I developed my knowledge, invested in decent tools and became a mechanic. That was years ago; now I just do my own work thankful that I save money. The lad got the job done, but needs to read up more! Can’t see an axle stand for starters? Otherwise, on my own car, I would have first cleaned and pre-lubed around the bleed nipples several days before doing the job. As others stated, I would suck out old fluid first especially if using pressure bleeding. I would also not have used a large adjustable spanner, or ratchet and socket to try and undo the bleed nipples; instead a short, 6-sided 10mm ring spanner gives good feel and is preferred. All that said, fair play, the lad is starting out; but lowered suspension, painted calipers and wheel spacers tells me he has a long road ahead within which to learn. A while back invested in a stand alone Sealey brake bleeding kit and drain bottle - great for home use where you can’t get close to an air line. Pressurising the lines is often the only way to get a good result - especially on clutch hydraulics.
my friend klaus he use what you say 'air drill' with 300 psi to open brake breast nipple valve. klaus he say nipple disappear from brake and new caliper £184 from euro car part.
Remove old fluid from the brake reservoir and fill with new fluid first. Then while doing brake bleeding, gravity bleeding technique is the best since it is fast enough and there is no risk of bubbles or air entry and you have time to fill the brake reservoir during gravity bleeding.
I bought a 40-yr-old Ford pickup once. Did a brake job on it. Did not drive it much, and one year later a wheel cylinder that was one year old froze up. I know now it was due to moisture in the brake fluid. I should have replaced the fluid when I did the brake job. No telling how old it was. I know better now. Thanks for showing me how.
@@ijaztariq2541If you don't know what you are doing with mechanical automotive work this improvement may be the next way to learn to bleed your brakes. For those of us who have bled brakes until we avoid doing it until unavoidable; this is going to make life easier. It is not dangerous unless the reservoir is allowed to empty without topping it up. The biggest bug bear of brakes (hydraulic) is the reservoir is too damn small for easy maintenance. Thus we check it and recheck it and recheck it....... When you are doing it on your own its tough. Not dangerous.
Maybe the title : HOW NOT TO TRY TO REPLACE BRAKE FLUID. Its nesessary, in order to avoid air in the brake lines to be continue pressure! Power bleeder is a special tool to make the job perfectly done by one person!
Never, repeat Never, repeat NEVER work on a car supported only by a jack! Jack stands are inexpensive and can save your life or limbs. Jacks are only for emergency tire changes and for use as the lifting tool to get your jack stands in place. NEVER perform any type of work like this with the car only supported by a jack!
My good friend and neighbour klaus work on car, to fix brake. he lay under car with jack. my good friend hugo and i leave to go shopping and have dinner for the night. we return in morning to find klaus still under car, but with car jack far away. he aks us to lift car up. so he can return home and have dinner with his family.
@@billwilson3665Nope, that's where you're wrong. I made this same mistake and i was only swapping wheels on a car, which nearly costed me my fingers. I just replaced the wheel and was positioning it correctly on the axle and about to put the bolts in it when i noticed something on the entire car was "off" but couldn't figure out what exactly, (it was farely late at night) barely a few seconds later the scissor jack sheered away and the entire car slammed down, fixing the tire stuck into the wheelarch.....my hands where on that tire less then 5 seconds before. I learned an important lesson that day. Stay sharp, safety first at all times!
Mostly covers what to do but remember a few things, Firstly wear some PPE, not fun to get brake fluid in your eyes. Also don't rely on jack alone, use jack stands. 2. Start with the furthermost tyre from reservoir and work your way back. 3. Push back pistons on calipers to ensure all fluid is pushed back. Make sure reservoir doesnt overflow. 4. Suck out old fluid out of reservoir and fill with new fluid. Pull fluid through until new fluid hits the tube.
I use a MityVac vacuum setup.. Which can draw a full 1 bar ( -15 PSI ) vacuum... I also temporarily clamp brake hose and take out the nipple and wind some PTFE tape on the thread, this stops air being sucked around the nipple thread and also stops the thread from seizing in the caliper... I also just snug up the nipple with a short ring spanner, especially in aluminium calipers which can strip easily, especially with PTFE tape on thread reducing the friction.... The beauty of the small MityVac catch bottle is that if you fill the master cylinder reservoir to very top of the fill opening before starting a new wheel, the MityVac bottle will fill up before the master cylinder reservoir gets too low and this prevents sucking air into system ( which is a world of pain with ABS ) to make sure if put some tape around mityvac bottle and stop sucking about 20mm before top of bottle and soon as fluid reaches the tape. As someone else said - vacuum out the master cylinder reservoir and fill with fresh fluid right to the very top before starting to bleed the system and you will be sucking fresh fluid into the system, not the old stale fluid in the reservoir. Another caution is that brake fluid will take the paint off your car, wash off any spills ASAP with a water and dish soap mixture.
Bad a$$ trick! Love it, no need to pump the pedal. I have a shortcut myself but always had to pump the dumb pedal. You're also a brave man to work with that scissor lift!
Always use a 6-point socket rather than a 12-point wrench on your bleeders, especially if they are rusted. You dont want to round these off. I also grease the threads before installing new ones, so there's no chance for water to get in there.
I saw another video where they used Teflon tape on the threads. It gets rid of those bubbles (coming around the threads) when you use vacuum to extract the fluid. Just be super careful to not stretch it over the end or it could clog the bleeder screw.
When I pull the pads out and I need to push the piston back I attach a hose and crack the bleeders. I then use a clamp and wind the piston back …. Really bleeds the last bit of air out of the system. I usually flush and bleed the system before I change the pads. 👍👍👍
yep, this highly edited video is 3 minutes...budget 45 minutes per corner if one does not have a quick jack and must do each corner separately....personally, it would take me 3-4 hours on something this simple because nothing goes my way on car mx.
Cut the time by more than half by leaving the wheels on (why take them off ??). Turn the steering wheel to lock to do the front, might need a jack for rear only depending on vehicle height.
Great comments so far, but this is just me ,dollar store hose to bleeders and use a 2 litter empty bottle of Coke or any soda bottle,or any container (this is for our friends that have never done a bleed job) Turn the car on and open bleeders just a little pressure will build up into the system and start filling your reservoir (you can press on the brake pedal just a little to speed the process, dont leave the car unattended, let the car do the work for you. Keep filling until you see clear fluid coming out of the hoses ,of course, it helps to open the furthest bleed screw to the closest. No nos here: crescent Wrench ( there is a possibility that you may round up the nut ,making your work harder,and actually having to go to a real mechanic 😂) Use the right tools! Your safety and well beeing are more important than trying to save 2 dollars(no jack stands) Peace!😊 Maybe I missed something (human here)
You can save a lot of time by just leaving the wheels on. In the front you don't even need a jack, just turn the wheel. Most vehicles you don't need a jack for the rear either for that matter. For one person, I just have a one way valve on the end of the hose, or stick the open hose end in some fluid, pump brakes until clear, top up, move on.
There’s basically two circuits for the brakes. The front and the rear. Starting with the rear makes more sense due to the distance between the rear axle and the master cylinder. Each circuit is independent of the other after it leaves the master cylinder. Cars with 4 channel abs won’t tolerate air in the system, so have a helper whose only job is to make sure that the reservoir stays filled with new fluid throughout the brake flush operation.
7 месяцев назад
Most cars have a diagonal split braking system where one of the circuits acts on the left front and right rear brake, and the other on right front and left rear.
I have used this method before but eventually purchased a "Power Bleeder" which pressurizes the reservoir and pushes the fresh fluid through the system. This way you avoid the issue with sucking air in via the treads of the open bleeder valve and overall it is less work. But it is an investment of around $100. There might be knock-offs for less but the original power bleeder is a very well made tool.
One downside is that the caps that come with it may not fit every vehicle. Also, some resevoirs are hidden and needs some disassemble of plastic covers around it, some even doesn't have space for the cap. Other thing is if that the cap doesn't seal properly it will make a mess if you didn't see first time. The vacuum bleeders are less messy and a one-size-fits-all tool. The syringe method in the video does pretty much the same job, only take longer. A little piece of playdough should be enough to seal around the bleeder
You can bleed in reverse. Fill the syringe with new fluid, first draw any air out of the system with a little pull, and ensuring you hold the syringe correctly, upright, not like the guy in the video is doing. And push the new fluid from syringe back up into the reservoir. Obviously suck the reservoir dry first. Syringe is a great tool as you can easily pull or push fluid. Pulling you may see false bubbles, but if you push to refill, that cannot happen. Plus you're always guaranteed the freshest fluid is in the caliper where most heat and issues will be.
I have a power bleeder for my mk4 GTI (now sold). the cap does not fit my 2019 WRX. I have to buy a new cap portion. Also, releasing the pressurized air is tough (mine doesn't have a bleed valve). 2nd, turning the cap when connected to the bottle kinks the hose. Third, the ABS is not cycled with just the bleeder alone and one must have a tool to cycle the ABS pump.....
Why are people saying this isn't a good method? If you make sure you don't run the reservoir dry like OP, then shoudn't sucking brake fluid through the bleeder screw be the same as pushing fluid through the bleeder screw? (via brake pumping, or reservoir pressurizing kit) ... Not to mention existing vacuum bleeders that run off shop compressors.
I make the same with long pipe and revers pedal. Air goes into pipe and I blocked pipe or not (end in fluid sucked fluid back). In some moment air was in pipe or bottle and goes new fluid.
With as little as a jar and a hose, one person can do this in 20min. Leave the wheels on, and in many cases you won't even need a jack for the rear. 3hrs??
@@macfady2181 it was my first time. I did it in my small car, was a bit quick. But still took 2 hours. Thx for sharing. Maybe next time take me a little bit less.
1:14. Remove the bleeder screw, clean the threads (I use a wire wheel), put a little anti-seize on it, reinstall. You can thank me if you never break one off!
80% of these comments are useless complaints about how he didn't show the reservoir getting drained and filled first, then claims that draining from the bleed valve is dangerous, with no explanation why.
Spot on, I’ve been solo gravity brake bleeding on all my cars for years - takes a little bit longer but does the job really well and also doesn’t put any pressure/strain on the master/slave cylinder seals which is especially important on older systems 👍
We've used the reverse bleed method for decades with a 2 syringes. This method trumps every other method. One handles the dirty fluid the 2nd fills the system via the bleed nipples. No need for 2nd person, no need to pump the pedal. No need for vacuum filling No need for pressure filling Air bubbles want to rise so let them. They all end up at the top of the reservoir where you want them. Very quick method Only tools required are bleed spanner and two 100ml syringes. Try it you will be amazed !
@@DeepakKumar-lv4te yes. Keep watching the level in the master ! Also start with caliper pistons fully pressed in to expell all old fluid out of the caliper cylinder.
You can buy fittings that are made for one-person bleeding that will automatically stop air from getting into the system. Draw as much fluid out of the master cylinder chambers as possible and refill with new fluid. Start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, attach a hose, loosen it with a box end wrench, get in pump the brakes a couple of times and tighten. Repeat moving to the next brake farthest from the master cylinder topping off each time. Top off a final time. Dispose of the old brake fluid at a recycling center. If none available, pour into a container with cat litter and keeping away from animals and humans. It will evaporate.
I like the idea of the big syringe instead of having a second person pumping the brakes or even worse, taking it to the dealer and getting charged a lot and not getting the job done as it happens with most toyota dealers.
If you have anti-lock brakes, you now have air in the ABS system and will need to pay a shop to clear it. THIS IS THE WORST POST ON REPLACING BRAKE FLUID I HAVE EVER SEEN.
I’d have to agree with you. The dude used a ratchet for loosening and tightening the bleed-nipples too. Should use a crows-foot wrench or box-end wrench. Pretty easy to strip with a tug on the ratchet.
It’s actually better to have a partner. It eliminates the possibility of air getting into the system through the bleeder valves. There’s also a one-way valve that allows you to pump the brakes but that won’t prevent air from entering from around the bleeder vales.
Put some silicone grease around the threads of the bleed screw and bubbles won't enter then wipe off when done ! Simple as that or you could spend lots of money on bleed screws with orings on that will also seal it from air getting in @@Zerpersande
The video with no words was funny along with methodes i dont use. With 2 people im done in the blink of an eye. I agree never only rely on a jack to support a vehicle. Thanks for your video. I was just looking at videos for now reason
Doing it this way could get air into your abs system. If that happens you will have to pay to get it corrected. Always suck out and fill with clean your reservoir first. Sucking dirty through is useless. Passenger rear, drivers rear,passenger front then drivers is the correct order. Top off reservoir after each.
If you are talking about sucking it dry, he made a mistake and even admitted as such 1:58. Otherwise I am not sure how this method would be dangerous. They sell tools specifically for one man brake fluid changes.
@@6woodwhy didn't someone press the brake pedal and then loosen the wheel nut and empty the brake fluid that way.with the syringe, you loosened the screw very slightly and pulled it out.which is more efficient
First, the old oil is taken out of the brake oil container, new oil is poured in, and then the old oil is taken out and oil is always added to the container, so that no air enters the system, do not do what you saw in this video because it is dangerous.
